Considering the chains will probably last longer than the tires, and the next set of tires may need MORE links,,,,,,,,,
I would simply tie the extra links out of the way with wire,,,,,,

 

I stuck the link/links in a vice and cut them off with a Dewalt cutoff/grinder......I like the extra links off, so I knew the next year which link to hook into.

 

If you have a large pair of bolt cutters they should work, although depending on the size of the chain it will still take some effort. I have a set of heavy duty chains on my 2720 that I think are 3/8" chain. My bolt cutters have 36" long handles and it still takes almost two people to cut them. Another tool that works well is a cut-off tool. They are normally air powered but Harbor Freight sells one for $25 that is 120 VAC. It will cut thru those links like butter. I'm normally not a fan of HF power tools but I've had one for several years and it works great.

I'm in the camp that says to trim off the excess links. The last thing you want to have happen is for the extra links to get loose and start slapping around and tearing up the underside of your tractor. In 20 years if I get a new tractor that happens to take a different sized chain I'll treat it to a shiny new set. ;-)

Also, as the previous poster mentioned, when they are trimmed to the right length it makes installation easier as you simply hook to the last link. I had an old farm tractor once that had extra links in the chain and each year I had to re-figure out which link was the correct one.

 

Valid points both ways. I left my chains long, and used a pair of zip ties each year to tie up the excess. I guess I didn't find it too difficult to put the clasp through the same link each year. Heck, but about the 10th year or so there was an obvious glazing of the proper link.

 

I used a bolt cutter on mine. They are pretty soft and not real heavy gauge. If I ever need a link or two for different tires, I'll just add them. Jay

 

I just secure the extra with a zip tie. Who knows if the next set of tires might be a little larger than the current ones. I read all of the time on here of people saying that tires marked the same size are coming up to a couple of inches different in height and/or width. Don't forget that since the chains do wrap down the sidewalls some, even changing the width of the tires will result in needing a different length on the chains.

 

I removed the cross bars by bending the attachment links open with a pair of vicegrips and then tied the extra side links out of the way with zip ties. I need the extra links when using turfs, but they are unneeded for HDAPs. I can easily add the crossbars back on when needed.

You can also just chop them off and reattach later with repair links.

 

the chains cut very easy, soft metal, I used the cutters on the inside of my vice grips and there is very little leverage... with a bolt cutter it will be like scissors through paper

and you can easily add links later if you need too...




.

 

Could any of you guys post a pic of what you mean by the "extra links" and how you secured them? I've never dealt with tire chains before, I got a set for Christmas exactly like the ones shown in the OP's pic. I just put them on my 210 tonight but I'm having trouble tightening them with the long brace/hook on the outer edge of the chains. They seem to keep falling off.

 

To get the chains tight, straighten the cross chains in sequence as you go around the tire. The difference between 'tight' when you first install them and 'tight' for operations is about 2 links on the outside and at least one link on the inside side chains. (I have on occasion tightened them 3 links if they were exceptionally sloppy when first installed.)

If you don't have to fight with the long lever link for at least 2 minutes, they aren't tight enough.

Several members recommend airing down the tire before installing chains and airing up again to tighten them. Since my tires are liquid loaded above the valve, that's not an option for me. My chains also stay on until they are scrap, about 8 years or 800 hours.

 

I use a die grinder with skinny wheel. Cut through then twist open with pliers.
I always trim chains once they are to proper TIGHT fit. This way there is never a guess as to what link they go to be tight enough year after year.
I'm not a fan of zip ties as they can break and chain excess can rub fenders etc.

MU

 

i use a die grinder with skinny wheel. Cut through then twist open with pliers.
I always trim chains once they are to proper tight fit. This way there is never a guess as to what link they go to be tight enough year after year.
I'm not a fan of zip ties as they can break and chain excess can rub fenders etc.

Mu

amen!!!!

 

I cut them off... It's very easy to weld them back on...

 

As Tudor mentioned already and;
I jack the tractor up and get tire off the ground/floor. Let some/all air out of tire. If liquid filled rotate tire to 12 o'clock. At least that's how e do them on Brothers 3320.
Drape chains over tire and hook inside at link. Then start working on outside. If you have them linked together and it went easy then they are way to loose. Un hook and take inside up 1 more link then repeat outside. If you don't have to rotate the tire a good 5 times ensuring cross links are tight and fairly straight then they will not be tight enough. Repeat, Repeat.......
Just when you think you have them tight enough (after much hard work) try to get them tighter!
Once done getting them hooked and secured. Air up tire and cut excess links.
Take it for a ride and should be fine. If not repeat tightening.

Good Luck.

MU

 

One approach to dealing with the "outside" extra link is to attach the chain tightener to that link(s)

I use a chain and spring as a tightener;

This set of tires does not work well with the deflate/inflate method, because the tires are VERY full of fluid,,,

The home made tightener works very good,
keep your eye out for some springs the next time you are at a flea market.
Any spring you can stretch works, the stronger the better,,,,,,,,, :fing32:

 

The long lever link at the end of the outside chain goes through a link in the other end of the same chain and is folded back on itself. The hook on the end of the long lever gets latched onto the link that it will reach.

When the chains are tight, that link is a real bear to get folded over and hooked up properly, but the chains will not walk off the tire.

It's not uncommon to have an extra link or two left over. I just tie any excess up with wire. If you are in the habit of removing and installing the same chains regularly, you do want some excess to start the tightening process. As munderhill mentioned, the proper procedure is to go around the tire several times to take the slack out. If the slack isn't there and the chains have been trimmed to the final installed length, you won't enjoy trying to reinstall them.

 

It's not uncommon to have an extra link or two left over. If the slack isn't there and the chains have been trimmed to the final installed length, you won't enjoy trying to reinstall them.

In other words, if you cut the chains to the exact length,
the next time you install them, you will be adding links,,,,

 

I second everything TUDOR already mentioned. Personally, I like to keep one extra link on both the inside and the outside of the tire. The reasons to keep at least one extra link have already been explained fairly well.

My tool of choice to remove excess links is a bolt cutter. I also recommend tensioners of some sort for the outside wheel face: rubber or spring. I have both and somewhat prefer the rubber ones. This style has been around for many years.

 

I deflated the tires and hooked the chains up, there is still a little slack in the chains after I aired the tires up. Is this normal?

 

Get the chain hooked at tight as possible. It is normal to have some slack as you can only adjust one whole link at a time. To get the extra slack out you need to use a tensioner on the side of the tire like some have posted in their pics.
Also always be sure the hooks all face out so they don't cut into the tires.

Here is a good site to check out. http://www.tirechain.com/23X10.50X12.htm

 

At this point, everyone seems to be telling me about getting a tensioner. Sounds like that will have to do. Thanks for your help and sorry to hijack the thread.

 

In 40 years and over 3000 hours of using chains on LT's and GT's, I have yet to need tensioners of any description. Just get 'em tight in the first place.

 

-UPDATE-


Got my links cut out

a 18" set of Bolt Cutters worked really well to cut the 26x12.00-12 chain links.

and then used a set of vise grips and a flathead screw driver to bend the cut link open.

Thanks for all the tips/info.

 

Opinions Are all over the place. I have driven 18 wheelers With Excess/extra links Tied back with plastic ties.. I have used hog nose clips to hold them on the tractors , The chain needs to be installed correctly, So the excess links trail. I also Have never Deflated tires.. ( that is like the old wives tail, Never set a battery on concrete ) (my battery said that was true when the batteries had wooden boxes)I like to have the chains loose so they can work, Just a rubber tightener or 2.. Like my friend said .. What ever turns your crank..

 

I cut all but one extra link off usually... I use bolt cutters or a rotary pneumatic die grinder. I have two types of tensioners too- Spring style ones with 5 springs connected to a ring in the center, and some that are made out of a stretchy rubber with s hooks- I actually prefer the rubber ones... I keep bending the spring on the other ones...

this way, even if the chain moves, the tensioner will keep it tight...

 

You can only get the chains so tight by themselves. Each tire size is different and there is a good bit of difference in going just 1 link so you don't have that fine tuning. You get the extra with the tensioner. Tensioners are cheap, easy to install and wont hurt anything so why not?

Every person has their own way though. I jack up the rear tires when I install mine so I can rotate the tires exactly where I need them and inspect every inch of the chain after I finish installing them.

 

You can only get the chains so tight by themselves. Each tire size is different and there is a good bit of difference in going just 1 link so you don't have that fine tuning.

I fine tune the chain tightener by looping it through the link underneath or on top of the spare link as required.

There may not be much difference, but there is a difference in how tight the chains can be tightened.

 

I added the tensioners after getting mine as tight as possible. These only cost $12 for the pair.