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Shopping for a Sub-Compact, storage space, and a tiny lot overkill?

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4.2K views 27 replies 12 participants last post by  Bmaverick  
#1 ·
Hello everyone,
I have been drooling over sub compacts for QUITE some time now. We previously were renting a house on a 1,700 sq/ft lot which I actually mowed with a Deere 345 that was given to my by my grandfather... It was definitely overkill for that lot (although it was the 48" deck because he had ordered it that way new instead of the 52") not that a 48" on a tractor like that still isn't overkill on that lot also haha.
Well we just bought a new house and although a 1025r or something of similar size still may be a bit overkill for our new home (0.60 acre lot) we have a lot of projects here that a bigger tractor may really help with. I would just stick with the 345 but without diff lock it doesn't do so well on wet grass and one of our projects is a pretty large garden. I have gotten that tractor stuck in just SOME soft yard, let alone in a garden pulling a tiller.
The other project is the yard that is terribly uneven due to the previous owner having random gardens in random areas of the yard. So there are pits and humps all over it, not where we plan on building our garden also.
We also have flower beds around our house surrounded by a stack of 3-4 high railroad ties that are all rotting out about to dump the dirt/mulch onto the sidewalk. This is something i feel like would be quickly tackled with the back hoe.
I am honestly not sure if im crazy for wanting to get a sub compact or not. I can off some of my equipment in leu of the sub compact as well... I have the 345, a Toro 5030 zero turn (which cuts like utter GARBAGE), a Yamaha 624 snowblower and a crappy old Craftsman tiller (maybe 24" wide) that can all be evicted if I got a sub compact with a mower deck.
As for storage though... we have 2 sheds (12x10 and 12x8) which I believe would be enough space once I get rid of the other mowers, tiller and snowblower.
I looked into some of the "lawn tractor" options that had 4x4 and a rear output for a PTO and they really aren't that much cheaper then a sub compact. Plus, if I did get one of those I would still have to rent equipment to fix my lawn and the few other projects (including digging ditches for power, sprinklers, invisible dog fence) which would probably cost me the difference in price of the lawn tractor vs sub compact.
Did anyone else find themselves in a similar situation where you have a smaller property but went sub compact anyway?
I am really NOT a brand "fanboy" and don't really care what tractor it is, as long as the quality is good and there are available parts and service. We have most major brand dealers within 30 minutes of me; Deere, Kubota, Mahindra, New Holland, MF, and even LS.
Of course there are features I like a lot about the Deere (quick connect deck), because at only 40 I have some serious medical issues (large cyst IN my spinal cord) that stops me from doing some physical tasks like crawling under things and fighting to attach parts. They also appear to have a military discount, although I cant find out EXACTLY what that gets you through their website though.
If anyone has personal experience with the other brands (like LS, Mahindra, or Branson) I would love to hear. If I can save a stack of money it would be much easier to convince the wife our tiny plot needs a big tractor HAHA!

Thanks for any input, opinions, suggestions!!
 
#2 ·
Before going whole hog on larger & more expensive tractors, many of your difficulties lie with the poor traction of your current tyres. Turf style tyres are great for level dry grassy areas and are horrible for anything else. I wouldn't be surprised if you have never changed the tyres because "they still have tread". You simply cannot compare tyres that are used on abrasive paved roads with tyres that never see an abrasive surface. Tyres are expendable items, meaning that they wear out after 5-7 years due to the compounds that make up the tyres aging. Once the tyres have become stiff & brittle, they no longer can provide traction because the elasticity that provides grip is lost.

Consider making the small investment on new ATV style tyres all around and choose a tread style that works with your property. Here in northern Florida, my 1.25 acre yard is mainly quite level. However, due to the 5-6 feet of rain we get each year, it stays damp to wet in many areas year round. I found quite early that turf style tyres had almost zero traction as I was spinning the turf tyres and damaging the ground surface. After switching to ATV style tyres, the spinning almost went away except in deep wet mud areas. ATV style tyres do not chew up the ground due to the low gearing of L & G tractors as opposed to the high gearing of an ATV.
 
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#3 ·
Sounds like you have some short term needs for dirt moving equipment, but with that small of a lot, the long term necessity of a SCUT with a loader and backhoe is questionable. You might think about renting a SCUT with a loader and backhoe, at least for your first project to see if it can do what you need to get done and if you might want to go ahead and purchase one.

A SCUT as the primary mowing machine will be ungainly trying to manuever around in 0.6 acres. I assume that is the total for the whole property, including the land that the house is on, which means that the entire mowable lawn is somewhere south of a haklf of an acre, so unless there are no fences, trees or shrubs on the property, you will spend more time backing up to make turns than you will doing the actual mowing.
 
#4 ·
It's not the size of the property that dictates the size of tractor, but the size of the task. I have a SCUT for my 0.3 acre property, but I also have a 1200 sq-ft roof that unloads its snow load periodically during the winter into my driveway. Nothing short of a loader is going to be effective moving that much heavily compacted snow and ice.

As Nouveau_Redneck pointed out, a SCUT is serious overkill for mowing the lawn on a small property. I have an LT for that duty.
 
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#5 ·
I have heard that the larger mowers on SCUTs do not provide a high quality cut. Perhaps that is not a priority for you. I'm sure others with SCUT mounted mowers will chime in on their experience.

As for over kill, if you are somewhat limited in physical capabilities, then some overkill might well be a good idea. At least you wouldn't be "wishing you could" with a smaller machine.

I think you are on the right track. Quality of machine is first. Second, fitness for what you intend to use it for. Third, leaving some "upside" to allow for future uses even though it sounds like overkill at the moment. You can always pick up a smaller yard tractor for mowing if the SCUT turns out to be unwieldy for that purpose.

2 years ago, at my age, I never thought I'd be moving from my 1 acre lot to the country with 4 acres of hilly land to mow plus a couple acres of mature woods. I have 2 garden tractors, my Sears Super Suburban and the X500, and one large "lawn" tractor, a Craftsman 46" tractor, plus a new ZT 60" and I STILL wish for a SCUT with loader and backhoe. I have 5 or six projects in mind. Stump removal, low spots to fill, a couple of trenching projects, lake shore maintenance, and tree planting come to mind.

IMHO it's easy to live with some overkill. What is regrettable every week, is under capacity. But that's just me.
Good luck and have fun with whatever you decide!!
 
#11 ·
I have heard that the larger mowers on SCUTs do not provide a high quality cut. Perhaps that is not a priority for you. I'm sure others with SCUT mounted mowers will chime in on their experience.

As for over kill, if you are somewhat limited in physical capabilities, then some overkill might well be a good idea. At least you wouldn't be "wishing you could" with a smaller machine.

I think you are on the right track. Quality of machine is first. Second, fitness for what you intend to use it for. Third, leaving some "upside" to allow for future uses even though it sounds like overkill at the moment. You can always pick up a smaller yard tractor for mowing if the SCUT turns out to be unwieldy for that purpose.

2 years ago, at my age, I never thought I'd be moving from my 1 acre lot to the country with 4 acres of hilly land to mow plus a couple acres of mature woods. I have 2 garden tractors, my Sears Super Suburban and the X500, and one large "lawn" tractor, a Craftsman 46" tractor, plus a new ZT 60" and I STILL wish for a SCUT with loader and backhoe. I have 5 or six projects in mind. Stump removal, low spots to fill, a couple of trenching projects, lake shore maintenance, and tree planting come to mind.

IMHO it's easy to live with some overkill. What is regrettable every week, is under capacity. But that's just me.
Good luck and have fun with whatever you decide!!
I have heard the same thing about the mowing on some SCUT units but then seen some videos that made it look like they actually do a great job. Maybe it really depends on the type of grass people have and how high they cut it? Heck i even seen one guy who made a homemade lawn striper that goes on the 3 point when they are mowing. The grass came out awesome and the stripes are WAY better then I can make with my Toro 5030!
Unfortunately my grass is literally 80% weeds right now. The previous owner took such bad care of the lawn that while I was out working on it more then one neighbor stopped while they were out walking their dog or jogging to THANK me for moving in and actually doing something NICE with the house! I have a lot of work to do on it though, besides tilling large areas of it then flattening it out... I already have sprayed it 2x with weed killer after being unsuccessful using a granulated weed and feed to take care of it. The clover and dandelion are finally on their way out!! Spring time it will need heavily overseeded or reseeded though.
The physical capabilities thing is a big part for me. I mentioned in my 2nd post that it took us almost a full month to move due to my issues. After which I was pretty much "done" for a whole week. Then we removed 2 shrubs from our front flower bed by digging and hacking with an axe which put me down for 2 more days. The worst part isn't just the pain issues but due to where the cyst is and the nerve issues it causes there are times where I pick something up wrong that causes me to pee a little until I get "manual control" over my bladder. I just kind of laugh it off now and do what I gotta do, if I didn't joke or make fun of myself for it then it could really cause some mental anguish.
You make a good point about overkill being a better thing to deal with then... underkill maybe?
My wife and I both would rather be in the country with a lot of property, however, my daughter is a Senior and my 1 son is in high school... we didn't want to pull those 2 out of their school and large friends group. We had already moved around quite a few times and my daughter caught the brunt of losing friends the few times she had to change schools. So once they are out we have the option to go somewhere with a smaller house (less cleaning for me since I am basically the house "wife"/Mr. Mom lol). I definitely wouldn't mind being in your situation, moving to a big land chunk with rolling land and some actual "space"! I have been done with the "city" thing for a while! Nothing like "getting in trouble" for not having my trailer 3 feet behind the front of the house in my own driveway to just set you off on an anti-city tangent!
 
#6 ·
I agree with what FLAKEN said about the tires. I have a very old Sears Suburban that has ATV tires on the rear. They are filled with water(South Alabama), have approx. 100 pounds of weights on each wheel and my fat butt to hold them down. This tractor is used mostly to tinker around with although I do have a box blade, grader blade, converted mule cultivator, drag blade, as well as a 3 pt. hitch. It only has a 10 HP B&S cast iron block engine from the mid 80's. The tractor is an early 70's model. If that was all I had I could do most of the things you want to do. It would take a while but that equals more seat time. I have a 1025R with a front end loader w/Pirahana tooth bar , 48" PTO tiller, 48" rotary cutter, 60" drive over mower deck, hydraulic grapple, and a single shank subsoiler. I also have an X590 with a 54" deck to mow with. The 1025R did a good job mowing but it is cumbersome and I live on 5 acres. That is why I got the X590. I know a lot of people on here say buy bigger than you think you need and I am one of them. However, I think a 1025R is too much machine for what you need for your property. This is just my opinion based on 68 years of experience and is worth exactly what it cost you--$0. The main thing I think is important is buy what you want, can afford, and safely operate. Good luck with your decision and please keep us posted.
 
#7 ·
I had a SCUT for my .87 acre lot for some years. I used it for firewood, snow blowing, mowing, moving trailers, lifting stuff into the backs of trucks/trailers, and whatever else I wanted. It could get a little awkward to mow with, but it wasn’t unmanageable and actually gave a pretty good cut. Massey GC2300 FWIW. I had the machine for about 5 years and sold it for more than I had into it when we moved and I needed to upgrade. Consider used machines in good shape. If you decide to sell it you should be able to get most if not all your investment back.
 
#8 ·
My 2 pennies ...

If it runs and mows well, keep the 345 for 'round the yard duties (IE; mowing, towing cart, and spreader and de-thatcher and lawn sweeper and ... anything else for 'round the yard). There are many members here who would gladly relieve you of that 345 - for very good reason. Keep it.

If the Yamaha 625 runs well and moves snow as it's supposed to - hang on to it. You'll always need it for those times that a walk behind is more task appropriate for the snow moving job at hand. (Not to mention back-up to your main snow fighter should it develop unexpected issues that you don't have time or money to repair mid-storm). If it doesn't run well, lose it and buy another walk behind that is practical. Like the 345, keep a good walk behind around.

You say that the Toro cuts "like garbage" and the tiller is "crappy". Lose them, for whatever you can get. No brainer there and frees up a little space,right ;).

Tilling by hand may also be an issue for you with the physical limitations that you allude to. (With this consideration I can testify that use of a quality rear tine tiller is night and day from the wresting match of a front tine).
Regarding those limitations, implement attachment is a legitimate consideration. You do need to be physically capable of bending, stooping, kneeling, reaching, sometimes muscling "some" implements in this regard.
HOWEVER - a number of manufacturers have taken the physical limitations of their customers into consideration, and a good dealer can guide you in that respect.
Ahhh, there in lies the paradox - A good dealer ... :unsure:

It sounds as though you may have a plethora of dealer choices in the area, and you don't have your heart set on a specific brand. Visit as many as you can (Take your time). You'll know when you've found the right one because they will help you to choose what it is that you need, as opposed to what you may have thought you wanted.
It'll feel right.

Look at my tag line.
The choice of equipment that I own now to maintain our simple and relatively small 2+ acres is due to a lifetime of experience as a simple homeowner who has always been a one-man show. Although I'm in relatively good shape; I'm 56+, have had some parts repaired and/or replaced, and I'm not necessarily as strong as I used to be.

I've owned many different pieces of yard equipment. Some were ... meh ... move on. Some were good and I made due but not what I really needed. Some were great; did exactly what I needed from them and more.

It comes down to situational need, and budget of course.
You have a good idea of what you need to get done, and what type of equipment is required to do it.
You know what your physical limitations are now and what they may be moving forward.

If your budget allows; buy a SCUT with loader and hoe.
I'm certain you'll have no regrets there.
After that, acquire a back blade, a ripper, a weight rack or box, and maybe even a 3-point snowblower (more affordable than a front-mount like mine. Paramount for us was to have a snow-fighter 6 months out of the year for our N.H. Nor-Easters :devilish:).
Small acreage with soggy, rutty, hilly lawn is no place for a SCUT to mow.

But, keep that 345. And a walk behind blower. And a good rear-tine tiller.
It sounds as though you would regret not having them around.

Renster
 
#12 ·
Thanks for the good points! I considered keeping the 345, or the little Murray I forgot to mention we have. Probably sell the Deere though since I am sure I could get WAY more out of it with that nice 20hp liquid cooled Kaw on it, over the 14hp Briggs stuffed in the little Murray. I also didn't even THINK of the point of keeping the blower for areas where the SCUT wouldn't work as well (sidewalks). It actually does run great and that little blower, even though she is OLD, tosses snow better then my old neighbors brand new unit did.
Unfortunately the physical thing is a hinderance... for a chuckle about it read my last post about my peeing issues LOL! Thankfully I have a lot of metal working equipment and have been brainstorming ideas for things to make myself as well as ways I could make it easier to handle equipment if I did get a SCUT. As for that little tiller, though its small it kicked my arse when I used it last. It bucks, tugs, yanks, kicks which sadly plays utter **** in my lower back areas (enter that peeing issues again for example). In fact so does my snowblower IF I don't have the pin in the wheel that locks them both together... That blower will kick and fight when she loses or gains traction without the tires locked since it only drives the left tire then.
Thankfully our new lawn isn't soggy and its not "supposed" to be hilly. The previous owner made a mess of the lawn and his little garden projects caused him to dig out areas (30'x40' in one area) and move the dirt elsewhere, he also dug a pit in the yard for some reason where he had a small greenhouse. The yard SHOULD be even but has a couple feet of change in a handful of areas. Which is what I was saying I would like to use a loader to fix, probably even a tiller would be required as well. The area we want to put the garden is in the back corner by our shed, all the neighbors hated the guy though because he put his garden near the sidewalk with his bees (yes, bees against the sidewalk) and he even had chickens on the tree lawn.... You can NOT have chickens in my city either without having over 2 acres. His argument was that the tree lawn was technically the cities and they have more then 2 acres! When they tried to tell him "well that's the cities" then he told them that he would no longer mow it and if they tried to fine him then he would sue them. He for sure "famous" at the city ordinance office!
I would LOVE to have the front blower like you said you have... However, good GOD they are expensive!! We live in northeast Ohio RIGHT near lake Erie. So we have lake effect snow issues (nowhere near NY type blizzards though) however our old house was SO close to the lake (1/4 mile or less) that all the lake effect snow started about a mile south of us. We were too close and the lake temps helped us escape the big snows.... However, although we are in the same city, we are now about 5 miles south which puts us RIGHT where the snow dumps from those storms. So this year may be more interesting then the prior ones. That is if its actually a "normal" winter this year. They have been increasingly more tame around here! Heck, my kids got days off school because of wind chill advisory rather then actual "snow days" like we did when we were kids (I grew up in this city as well). I am guessing by your comment though that you guys get POUNDED in the winter??
 
#9 ·
Hello everyone,
I have been drooling over sub compacts for QUITE some time now. We previously were renting a house on a 1,700 sq/ft lot which I actually mowed with a Deere 345 that was given to my by my grandfather... It was definitely overkill for that lot (although it was the 48" deck because he had ordered it that way new instead of the 52") not that a 48" on a tractor like that still isn't overkill on that lot also haha.
Well we just bought a new house and although a 1025r or something of similar size still may be a bit overkill for our new home (0.60 acre lot) we have a lot of projects here that a bigger tractor may really help with. I would just stick with the 345 but without diff lock it doesn't do so well on wet grass and one of our projects is a pretty large garden. I have gotten that tractor stuck in just SOME soft yard, let alone in a garden pulling a tiller.
The other project is the yard that is terribly uneven due to the previous owner having random gardens in random areas of the yard. So there are pits and humps all over it, not where we plan on building our garden also.
We also have flower beds around our house surrounded by a stack of 3-4 high railroad ties that are all rotting out about to dump the dirt/mulch onto the sidewalk. This is something i feel like would be quickly tackled with the back hoe.
I am honestly not sure if im crazy for wanting to get a sub compact or not. I can off some of my equipment in leu of the sub compact as well... I have the 345, a Toro 5030 zero turn (which cuts like utter GARBAGE), a Yamaha 624 snowblower and a crappy old Craftsman tiller (maybe 24" wide) that can all be evicted if I got a sub compact with a mower deck.
As for storage though... we have 2 sheds (12x10 and 12x8) which I believe would be enough space once I get rid of the other mowers, tiller and snowblower.
I looked into some of the "lawn tractor" options that had 4x4 and a rear output for a PTO and they really aren't that much cheaper then a sub compact. Plus, if I did get one of those I would still have to rent equipment to fix my lawn and the few other projects (including digging ditches for power, sprinklers, invisible dog fence) which would probably cost me the difference in price of the lawn tractor vs sub compact.
Did anyone else find themselves in a similar situation where you have a smaller property but went sub compact anyway?
I am really NOT a brand "fanboy" and don't really care what tractor it is, as long as the quality is good and there are available parts and service. We have most major brand dealers within 30 minutes of me; Deere, Kubota, Mahindra, New Holland, MF, and even LS.
Of course there are features I like a lot about the Deere (quick connect deck), because at only 40 I have some serious medical issues (large cyst IN my spinal cord) that stops me from doing some physical tasks like crawling under things and fighting to attach parts. They also appear to have a military discount, although I cant find out EXACTLY what that gets you through their website though.
If anyone has personal experience with the other brands (like LS, Mahindra, or Branson) I would love to hear. If I can save a stack of money it would be much easier to convince the wife our tiny plot needs a big tractor HAHA!

Thanks for any input, opinions, suggestions!!
Have you looked at the SCUTs from Cub Cadet made by Yanmar?

The SC2400 would be an all around winner
TractorData.com Yanmar Sc2400 tractor information

Yanmar 221
mower deck and loader options.

One thing I learned with SCUT machines, get a diesel. When you need raw power, gas engines just can't get you there in the SCUT footprint. Plus, these diesels run on the Tier-3 or -4 clean level and sip fuel rather than guzzling it.

BTW, a Yanmar painted green is basically a John Deere in the SCUT and CUT line up. ;)
Yet, Yanmar offers machines even smaller than the 1025R. Exactly for your needs.
 
#13 ·
Have you looked at the SCUTs from Cub Cadet made by Yanmar?

The SC2400 would be an all around winner
TractorData.com Yanmar Sc2400 tractor information

Yanmar 221
mower deck and loader options.

One thing I learned with SCUT machines, get a diesel. When you need raw power, gas engines just can't get you there in the SCUT footprint. Plus, these diesels run on the Tier-3 or -4 clean level and sip fuel rather than guzzling it.

BTW, a Yanmar painted green is basically a John Deere in the SCUT and CUT line up. ;)
Yet, Yanmar offers machines even smaller than the 1025R. Exactly for your needs.
I actually hadn't looked at the Cub Cadet ones. Did they stop making them? I didn't see any mention of them on their main site.. Just lawn tractors. I actually didn't even consider Yanmar in the list... I had never seen any of them around and also didn't catch any videos about them on YouTube. I guess I figured they didn't sell them "here" under their own name... However, they do. There is a Yanmar dealer about 15 minutes from here. I would think that since they build the engines that a lot of tractors use, they may have some idea of how to build a tractor! haha
Does JD actually build the tractors FOR Yanmar? I saw some video tours of the Deere 10-series assembly line so I know they actually make those here in the USA.
I absolutely will go diesel! There is for sure no doubt there. Heck, that 20hp Kawasaki on my 345 EATS gas way faster then it seems the diesel SCUTs do (after hearing how long people use them on one tank).
Thanks for the tips though! I will check out the Yanmar and the Cub as well if it's still manufactured!
 
#10 ·
WOW, thanks to EVERYONE for the great input! I will be replying to some of these great comments and suggestions in replies. I just wanted to toss out a general thanks for all the great suggestions.
To cover a few things that I didn't maybe clear up, or that I actually forgot to mention...
I wouldn't be against renting some equipment, however with my mentioned physical issues, projects can take way longer then I plan for. Also feeling "super" for 2 days can go to feeling like a dumpster fire for the next 1 or 2. So renting a SCUT, trencher, or mini-x, could get very costly. For example, thankfully a friend of mine had an enclosed trailer I could use to move to the new house. We were worried we would have to rent a truck or trailer. The whole move from only a 900sq/ft house took us about 3 weeks due to me not being able to do everything "over the weekend". Thankfully our rent was paid through the end of the month and the mortgage on the new house wasn't due till then next month. So basically they didn't require double payments or anything, allowing us the extended time to move from the old house.
As for mowing, our yard is pretty well open. There are only 4 trees that I would have to maneuver around 1 of which as a large mulch island around, 1 I want to cut down, 1 is a stump needing removed. We have a large "island" in the front corner that has a sidewalk on 2 sides (we are on a corner lot) so that isn't hard to navigate around.
I have considered keeping the 345 but if I did get a SCUT it wouldn't really "need" it. I would probably never use it, even if i needed to tow around my yard dump trailer, i would still use the SCUT to do so instead lol.
Even with tire upgrades, which I am sure would help, I feel like I would have issues with some tasks. If it was 4x4 or at least had a diff-lock I think I would be completely happy with it! If I do go with a SCUT I will sell it for sure and the old school Murray tractor i forgot to mention (needs carb rebuilt).
As for the Toro 5030, I don't know WHY it cuts so bad. I have checked everything on it from blade sharpness/straightness, deck adjustments, spindles, etc. Maybe just because its a "cheaper" unit? It definitely FEELS cheap, the frame flexes like its made from old soda cans haha. The deck is pretty shot too, you can tell its a cheap non commercial unit for sure. The previous owner patched a bunch of spots and it still needs some work too.
As for the projects, I only listed a few. There are a hand full of ones on the honey-do list and lists of things we'd like to do in the next year or two... Heck, my wife even asked (semi-jokingly) if i could use it to build an in ground pool. LOL
Just seems for what you get with a SCUT it doesn't seem as cost effective to get a large lawn tractor when the SCUT is only a couple grand more.
I should also mention I have a very broad background. I was a RIA certified robotic master technician. We built industrial robotic equipment. Some of the projects I actually had to design my own parts for (even have a patent for the design of a robotic laser enclosure for a vision system). This also gave me an extensive background in hydraulic, pneumatic, and electrical systems. I figured it would be a fun project to make some parts for the SCUT if I did get one. Perhaps a hydraulic thumb, 3-point log splitter that runs off they stock hydro system, or other parts people "wish they had". Thankfully through the years I have collected a bunch of gear to help those tasks become possible (plasma cutter, welding gear, 3d printer, etc). Shame there aren't more people local that would love to work on stuff like that because it would be fun to make things like that.
Also, we have 3 kids (youngest just turned 13) and once they are out of the house (10 years or so if they go to college) my wife and I both yearn for a large property on a good chunk of land. I would hope a well taken care of SCUT could last that long. My 345 has about 900 hours on it and I believe was made in 1999, so i know that some machines ARE made to last.
I wanted to thank you ALL again though! You have given me quite a few things to consider along with good options and opinions!
For those of you who have smaller property and a SCUT what else do you find yourself doing with the SCUT that you didn't even consider when you bought it?
I will reply again with quotes to a few people that made more specific comments or that I have questions for.
It's hard to gather all the thoughts and replies into one huge thread without the train of thought derailing. **** ADD.
 
#14 ·
Most of the SCUT lines for each manufacturer do indeed come standard with 4wd and rear diff lock.
Both of which you can engage and disengage at will.
With your relatively small lot, you probably won't have traction issues to speak of - regardless of which tire type you choose.
We opted for the turf tires on our Kioti. They're easier on the grass, and I've had no traction issues to speak of as of yet.
The rears are also loaded with rim guard for extra traction.
Absolutely NO snow gets in the way of this machine when the blower and rear blade are installed - Period! (Look for my threads and comments in the "Kioti" section of "Scuts By Brand"). We "can" get pounded by winter storms here - much the same as you. Plus, our winters truly do average 5-6 months in length, and we could (and do) get a dumping anytime between late October and early April. We just never know; but we do know that we can handle any winter storm at any time - and that's a comfort that can't be quantified as we get older.
However, as you affirmed - a front mount blower is quite a bit more expensive than a rear 3 point mount. Thus why I suggested that option. Plus - I can tell you with utmost confidence that rear mount install easier and quicker than front mounts. Once I swap our Kioti over to "winter duty", it pretty much stays that way till spring. That means No Loader Super Powers till spring man! With a rear mount - you can keep your loader on ... (y) (I did find - personally - that moving a N.H. winter storm in our driveway with the loader was - much less efficient than a blower).
I would think that turfs are a strong consideration if you intend to mow your small yard with a SCUT. It would also most surely cut down on how long it takes to mow.
However, I don't do so because ours would no doubt cause alot of damage to the lawn (most especially in the spring) due to it's weight alone. It's just too heavy for that task in our situation (we have about an acre and a quarter of mowable lawn). Our Troy Bilt handles that just fine (although I'll likely re-acquire a nice hydrostatic at some point here).

Yep; keep the walk behind (and keep that axle pinned for good ;)).
Think long and hard about how you want to mow and what with before investing in that implement for a SCUT.

Renster
 
#15 ·
Most of the SCUT lines for each manufacturer do indeed come standard with 4wd and rear diff lock.
Both of which you can engage and disengage at will.
With your relatively small lot, you probably won't have traction issues to speak of - regardless of which tire type you choose.
We opted for the turf tires on our Kioti. They're easier on the grass, and I've had no traction issues to speak of as of yet.
The rears are also loaded with rim guard for extra traction.
Absolutely NO snow gets in the way of this machine when the blower and rear blade are installed - Period! (Look for my threads and comments in the "Kioti" section of "Scuts By Brand"). We "can" get pounded by winter storms here - much the same as you. Plus, our winters truly do average 5-6 months in length, and we could (and do) get a dumping anytime between late October and early April. We just never know; but we do know that we can handle any winter storm at any time - and that's a comfort that can't be quantified as we get older.
However, as you affirmed - a front mount blower is quite a bit more expensive than a rear 3 point mount. Thus why I suggested that option. Plus - I can tell you with utmost confidence that rear mount install easier and quicker than front mounts. Once I swap our Kioti over to "winter duty", it pretty much stays that way till spring. That means No Loader Super Powers till spring man! With a rear mount - you can keep your loader on ... (y) (I did find - personally - that moving a N.H. winter storm in our driveway with the loader was - much less efficient than a blower).
I would think that turfs are a strong consideration if you intend to mow your small yard with a SCUT. It would also most surely cut down on how long it takes to mow.
However, I don't do so because ours would no doubt cause alot of damage to the lawn (most especially in the spring) due to it's weight alone. It's just too heavy for that task in our situation (we have about an acre and a quarter of mowable lawn). Our Troy Bilt handles that just fine (although I'll likely re-acquire a nice hydrostatic at some point here).

Yep; keep the walk behind (and keep that axle pinned for good ;)).
Think long and hard about how you want to mow and what with before investing in that implement for a SCUT.

Renster
I agree with the rear mounted snowblower- I’m a big advocate for them for all the aforementioned reasons.
You aren’t married to any of this stuff. If you buy it right / used, you can sell it and get every penny back if you find it’s not the right fit for you.
I routinely find 60” rear mount snowblowers for under $800 around here. A SCUT with 18 PTO horsepower will handle a 60” blower. If the snow is too deep, slow down. Or turn around and use the loader.
I’ve since sold this little guy but sometimes wish I had it back again. I’m now running a 46 horse machine with similar but larger implements, including an 84” rear mount snowblower.
 

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#20 ·
I feel like dealing with that strange reverse pedal location on the other units may get annoying.
I have JD X500 and X530 garden tractors with the side-by-side forward and reverse pedals, and a Kubota BX25D with the heel pedal for reverse. I have no real issues using either or switching back and forth between them. I use the X500 to haul the cart when I'm moving large amounts of dirt and use the Kubota's backhoe and loader to dig and load the cart and I jump back and forth between them all of the time.
 
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#22 ·




No chains needed. Just blower on front and 5 foot blade on the 3 point. (The blade spins around 360 degrees, and you can also pin it at angles). Nothing gets in it's way. Sometimes, I've forgotten to put it in 4wd and didn't realize it until I head up my steep walkway! Our neighbors occasionally stop to watch it in action with their mouths hung open. Last year one of them asked "how far will that actually throw snow?" I smiled and replied "why; you want some of ours?"
'No, no, nooo. Just wonderin'" :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Yes, we love our Kioti 2210. We also have a fantastic dealer who treated us great and continues to support us with anything we need. A year after we bought, Kioti came out with the 20 series (2220 and 2520) which is a 2nd generation of these SCUTS. The new 20 series is almost a redesign in many aspects and has features that I wished I could have had on our 10 series. Universal Quick attach front capability (like a skid steer) as opposed to our pinned bucket, a new stronger loader (twin hydraulic cylinders as opposed to our single), higher capacity hydraulic pump, loader control stick on the fender right next to your hand, and you can detach and/or reattach the loader without even leaving the seat! A few more creature comforts too. If we were to buy today the 20 series would be a no-brainer for us.
Alas, I've picked up a few more implements and accoutrements for our 2210, and I'm really quite satisfied with it.
As I've stated before, it's paid us back in dividends around here in the short time we've owned it, and so far it's been very dependable.

Renster
 
#23 ·
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No chains needed. Just blower on front and 5 foot blade on the 3 point. (The blade spins around 360 degrees, and you can also pin it at angles). Nothing gets in it's way. Sometimes, I've forgotten to put it in 4wd and didn't realize it until I head up my steep walkway! Our neighbors occasionally stop to watch it in action with their mouths hung open. Last year one of them asked "how far will that actually throw snow?" I smiled and replied "why; you want some of ours?"
'No, no, nooo. Just wonderin'" :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

Yes, we love our Kioti 2210. We also have a fantastic dealer who treated us great and continues to support us with anything we need. A year after we bought, Kioti came out with the 20 series (2220 and 2520) which is a 2nd generation of these SCUTS. The new 20 series is almost a redesign in many aspects and has features that I wished I could have had on our 10 series. Universal Quick attach front capability (like a skid steer) as opposed to our pinned bucket, a new stronger loader (twin hydraulic cylinders as opposed to our single), higher capacity hydraulic pump, loader control stick on the fender right next to your hand, and you can detach and/or reattach the loader without even leaving the seat! A few more creature comforts too. If we were to buy today the 20 series would be a no-brainer for us.
Alas, I've picked up a few more implements and accoutrements for our 2210, and I'm really quite satisfied with it.
As I've stated before, it's paid us back in dividends around here in the short time we've owned it, and so far it's been very dependable.

Renster
Wow that sounds pretty awesome! It's definitely good to hear that those tires preform that well! Makes me reassured that getting them would give me no issues and also keep from doing too much damage to the lawn.
That kind of sucks that they changed everything not long after you bought yours! As for the quick attach bucket I would make my own for sure if that was my situation. They look pretty easy to do, you can buy the universal quick attach portion and if you cant find the pin on bracket parts you can have them made. There are some online places (SendCutSend) that will do laser cutting of steel parts for a reasonable fee. If you lived closer I'd be happy to help you make them, but you are a "few" miles away, lol.
Thanks again for all the info! I will look into Kioti of course as well. I'm planning to look at all the brands since most are pretty close. I unfortunately found out that the Yanmar dealer that was close closed down though. So that sucks! The next closest dealer is over an hour and a half away.
 
#24 ·
I’ve read through most of the replies. I dealt with a similar problem before we purchased the current house. We lived on .25 acres when I was at my previous job. We knew that a move was imminent (due to my contract etc) and knew that we wanted an average. I ended up using an X748 for about 2 years on that small lot. It was nice to mow in less than 10 minutes and I cleared our driveway, several of the neighbors, and the cul-de-sac (since the city seemed to fail at that). Problem was storage.

Physically the X748 is only slightly smaller than a 1025R. With a 12x10 building you will need to take the loader off any SCUT to store it.

My advice (which will seem painful) would be to live there a year and during that year rent a couple different pieces of equipment. Many rental places have various brands of SCUT (Kubota and Deere seem to be the favorites). Consider the rental fees tuition, you might not be able to finish a project in a weekend or a day but physically having and driving a machine around on your property will give you an idea of unforeseen pitfalls or benefits!

When we moved to our current house/acreage we only had the X748 for the 7.5 acres of mowing. Recognizing that we needed a much larger mower I got a 72” mower. I had no tractor for the various tasks associated with property upkeep. Kept the X748 with 45 loader and it was a good stand in, just not efficient. My original intent was to buy a Deere 3046R right after we moved in….. long story short…. I ended up with a 4066R. Moved in, in June of 2016 and signed the paperwork on the 4066R in May of 2017. Spent well over 40 hours working with the salesman to get the machine built right for the issues I had identified over the previous 10 months. I ended up with a machine that perfectly fit my needs. Still small for a few things I do, but it was a trade off.

You wanted a snow removal video…. :D
 
#26 ·
Wow, loads of really interesting info, thank you all for sharing! It's good stuff, even for those of us that aren't SCUT shopping.

LSxP, clearly you have gotten a ton of good advice already. I'm sorry to hear about the physical issues that you're dealing with. It's not the same, but I've had ongoing neck issues since an operation several years ago. This has imposed some limitations, and things that I try to minimize or avoid. And then dealing with the "aftermath" when I try to do something that makes it mad. Your example of hacking away with an axe seemed reminiscent of my trying to remove a shrub stump this spring.

I put a bucket on my GT, which was great this fall, letting me do stuff that wouldn't have been practical by-hand. But taking the 175 lb mower deck off and on a few times, when alternating between bucket work and mowing, was eye-opening. I can definitely see the appeal of things like drive-over mower decks. Or having multiple machines, set up for different tasks. I would have spent way less time transitioning between setups, if I was instead just grabbing an LT to cut the grass, for instance. Rather than trying to plan out my work, to minimize the number of bucket/mowing conversions.

Obviously I don't know the details of your situation. But with the neck stuff, it hurts just thinking about a 3-point blower, and clearing snow while looking over my should the entire time :) Hopefully that's not an issue for you. But it's something to consider, anyways.

We're in New England, with a slightly smaller lot than yours. I have a 2-stage walk behind snowblower (Ariens), which has been great. It has a differential, for easy turning, but I can lock that for more grip. Newer blowers either have differentials that automatically lock and unlock (Ariens' AutoTurn system), or have triggers to disengage the drive on either side. So you can have both wheels locked, but squeeze a trigger to stop driving one wheel, and let the other one help you turn around. For walk-behind solutions, perhaps those could help?

Your lake-effect snow might be too much. But I love the Toro single-stage walk behind blower that I bought a few years ago. In suitable storms, it's lighter (60 lbs vs 300), quicker, easier to use, and less tiring, than the 2-stage. Squeeze the handle to engage the paddles, lift the handle, and the rubber paddles pull it forward. They also do a great job of clearing down to the pavement, since they're hitting the ground. A high-powered single-stage might be a consideration.

I don't have fancy metal-cutting equipment. But I've made various things for my machine with the angle grinder and welder, which has been awesome. And my 3D-printer has helped, letting me design and create smaller "accesories" to help it all work. It's been fun, and extremely helpful, to be able to make custom items for myself. They're nothing like what people here have/build, but I made a mount for the bucket at the front, and a weight box at the rear, for ballast. Plus the winch that controls the bucket can be moved to the back, to raise and lower my sleeve hitch.

I've had fun so far with my setup. And even though it's nothing like a SCUT, it's been a huge help to me, as just a residential homeowner. Good luck, I'm interested to follow along with your process, to see what solution you decide on!

Oh, and I can understand reluctance about renting. I like not having a deadline, so I can work at my pace. And while I totally understand the idea of the rental fees being "tuition" to see what works for your and what doesn't, I'm cheap :) So $2k on rentals, or whatever, could maybe have paid for a used implement for the tractor I want to buy :) So I'm somewhat torn on that stuff, even though it definitely makes a lot of sense.
 
#27 ·
PS- if you want to see a discussion of a resourceful and creative user here adding a lot of capabilities to his GT, to save effort and make his life easier, take a look here:
The life of my 3185 helper tractor begins - and continues!

For instance, he's made an adapter to pick up the automated-style trash can, and carry it out to the curb. And adapted a walk-behind tiller to mount to the tractor's rear hitch & lift setup. Pretty darn cool, IMO.