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LLigetfa,

Back in post 50. Roof extensions are explained. :fing32:

There Dragon also says "For those with concerns about the ability of this to withstand WI snow loads be assured that I am just as concerned as you and will be addressing those."

So we are waiting on pins and needles for Dragon to address that issue. But have to wait until the rest of the metal is on the frame.
Then we will have to wait for the December and January snows to see how it goes. Maybe even wait until next March for heavy wet snows.
Nobody said waiting was easy.:tango_face_devil:

My best guess is the solution is going to be a 250,000 BTU propane fired furnace to melt the snow as it lands. :thThumbsU
 
Discussion starter · #62 ·
JP Savage,
I do have an 80,000 BTU Dayton heater sitting in the corner of the garage that could be used for snow removal. Just think, I could fire that puppy up and the top of the shed would probably be the largest pancake griddle in the Midwest.

But if I tried adding electric service and a gas line out to this then I would also have to put in a bunk because that is where the better half would have me sleeping. :tango_face_wink:

The look I got from her when I said "hey, now it's big enough for two tractors to park side by side" told me I was wandering way out past the thin ice warning signs.

Here are the shots with the sides extended almost down to the ground. The next step after this is cutting panels in half the lengthwise to fill the remaining gap and add a skirt around the bottom edge. I also need to level a few of the foot pads and replace a few as well.

While you look at these I actually have to go work on the shed to get the back end closed up for the winter. More to follow.
 

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Discussion starter · #63 ·
Thank you for your patience. Vacation & family activities have been demanding my attention.

One of the issues with using recycled metal sheets is that they are already full of holes from their previous assembly. There may also be a few extra holes from, cough-cough, my miss drilling. To seal these holes I used Vulkem 116, a polyurethane sealant (fancy caulk) available at the big orange box store near me. I have used this for a few projects now and find it an excellent, high quality material. It is more expensive than standard silicone but the increase is not significant and the improved performance is worth it.

Below are a few interior & exterior views of the applied sealant.
 

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Discussion starter · #64 ·
The final step in the work on the sides was to add the lowest panel. Here is where my measurement estimates would be tested.

The final height on each side meant that I would be able to cut a single sheet of the metal in half and cover one side with the two pieces. So only two full pieces would be needed instead of 4 with thinner scraps left over.

This might just be the only thing I don't have a picture of either. I used a powered snips to cut each 14 foot panel. It only took a minute or so and was worth every penny I spent on the powered snips. Trying to do that by hand would have crippled me for days afterward.

Now, I had planned not to bring the metal right down to the ground. There is not a footing or continuous edge along the sides so I knew I would not get a tight ground seal, nor did I want or need one as this is not going to be a sealed structure.

The old Round Top cover had a flap or skirt along the bottom edge that I really liked. Since it wasn't fastened you could use a blower inside to blow out any leaves. The flap would raise up from the air from the blower and the leaves would follow right after.

To create this flap I re-used the edges of the bill board material which had pockets that were used to stretch the bill board over the frame it is mounted to. In my older posts I used these to hold a pvc pipe to strap down the bill board. I inserted a length of wood into the pocket and then lifted up the bottom flap and slotted it into the lowest rib on the metal roofing panel. The skirt is held in place only by the pressure of the panel pressing against the frame and that the wooden slat won't come out unless the panel is lifted from the frame. This will make it very easy to adjust or even replace if necessary in the future.

The first pictures below show how the wood piece is positioned in relation to the metal roof rib. This pic was taken when I was sizing the wood. The actual piece used is a continuous 12 foot piece and there are two of them per side.

Next is a few shots of the skirt being cut from the bill board and the wood insertion in to the slots. The white edges of the bill board you see in the picture are folded over and heat sealed to form the pocket used to originally mount the bill board.

This is followed by a few pictures taken when the skirt, with the wood inside of it, is pushed up into the rib slot to be held in place on the metal panel.
 

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Discussion starter · #65 ·
Here are a few pictures of the skirts from the outside. They have not been trimmed to length yet. I left them long on purpose as I was not sure how long I was going to want them to be and it is always easier to cut a little more off than be wishing you hadn't cut it short to begin with. :)

I also see that I do have a picture with the leftovers from the panel cutting portion of the project. See the cropped image with the red highlighted area. The power snips creates a nice curly-cue of metal that I set aside to use on other projects with the boys. I am sure they will think of some crazy uses for it.

More to follow...
 

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I'd let the vinyl lay out that far. Put some rubble on top of it so the wind will not move it and call it good.
 
I have used this special waterproofing tape on many things ,like my aluminum truck cap that had some holes in the roof,my quonset garage's arches,and several other items around the house & yard,even put some over a rotted spot in my truck's roof to keep my lap from getting wet when it rains..

Also used it around my kitchen sink,which was just flopping around in the cut out in the particle board counter top--40 years of water intrusion made the counter swell up and lose some of the particle board and all the sink hold downs no longer had anything to screw into..rather than tear out the whole counter,I decided to just "tape" the sink in place,and added a few toggle bolts to hold it in place,and the tape worked great to seal any water out and keep it from doing further damage to the counter top..(rest of it is still in good condition)..

This tape is a butyl rubber adhesive backing with an aluminum facing that sticks to just about anything permanently--even moist concrete--and it holds up outdoors for decades,the pieces I used on my truck cap have been on it 15 years and still looks like it was just put on it..

I also used it around a metal patch I had to install in my shower--years of water leakage from a faulty shower head ruined the first 2 feet of drywall just above the tub,where the shower control was located..to fix it "right" would have entailed tearing out ALL the ceramic tiles,sheet rock,and get to the studs,I was neither able to afford that to be done by someone else,nor was I up to doing that much "restoration"..

I just wanted the shower to be use-able again,without it doing any further damage..(Had to replace much of the plywood under the tiled floor in front of the tub too,that was rotted)..

So,I took off all the tiles in the damaged area in the shower,cut away the ruined sheet rock,and put pine boards the same thickness as the sheet rock was where it failed,and put the sheet aluminum over that,and I sealed both the board seams and the metal covering with this tape..stuff saved me a lot of work and money..

This stuff would work well to seal up your holes in the sheet roofing and any seams too..

Its about $10 a roll,I found it at Home Depot..
 

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Discussion starter · #68 ·
JP - I thought about covering the edge over like that but I really liked the ability to use the leaf blower to blast out debris from the edges. It I cover it then that area will fill with leaf litter & become home to critter.

Tractor-Holic - That looks like some heavy duty tape. Looks similar to the aluminum tape used to seal duct work, only stronger.


Next step on the shed is to seal up the back wall. Using scraps from the lumber piles I began to do a simple rough frame for the back wall. The exterior will be the remainder of the tarp that I cut the edges off of for the skirt for the walls.

The sill is a strip of pressure treated wood and the rest is lumber I picked up on Craigslist years ago from a fence that was taken down. It is 2x6 material and overkill. But I think the extra heft also contributes to the integrity of the whole structure so it is not a complete waste.

Creating the arches on each side was a fun challenge as well. They are there simply to provide a surface to fasten the tarp to. Although adding that one piece at a 45 degree angle really stiffened up the wall.

Once the wall was up I fit & held the tarp in place with clamps. I cut down a few pressure treated boards to create thin furring strips which I used on the exterior to attach & fasten down the trap.

I did not plan it at all but the advertising from the billboard aligned perfectly to the interior space. I kind of like it, it is a conversation piece. :)
 

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That looks great. Are you thinking about putting clear plastic film on the top section for more light ? I guess you could use a double layer of film (one on each side of the 2x6's) and get some insulation from the air pocket too. Just noticed you are in Wisconsin... so maybe some clear plastic film on the inside of the billboard tarp as well :)

There are limits to what you can do about insulating a structure like that but it might help to take the edge off a bit in the winter.
 
Looking good Dragon.:congrats:

I bet that angled 2x really did stiffen things up. A couple of 2 x nailed at an angle across the face of the frame on the inside would stiffen up the bottom portion too.

As bridgman mentioned, it would be nice to have the top left clear. But then you would have to go buy the special freeze proof plastic film.
I do not think clear plastic sheeting would last more than a couple years. But think of the light that would let in. It would be nice.

I see you framed for a door off the back. Hope you find a nice solid used one. Be nice in case too many tractors or other stuff in the way and what you need is in the back. Be nice to just slip in and grab it.

Question 1: How did you make the curves? They look pretty good.

Question 2: Are your leaves ever going to turn color? You must be in southern WI.:sidelaugh
 
Looking nice!! Im looking at that flat roof at first thinking that you are going to be in trouble once snow hit! Im sure its much stronger then it looks though. Its really not a big span of flat.. I still think a support of two, with a top plate that spans a joist or two would be a good idea. Even if just a temp thing over the winter.. Any plans to skin those end walls with sheathing if some salvage stuff comes your way?
 
The tape I mentioned above is not really "strong"--it'll rip or tear pretty easily ,its made to seal up things mostly,it doesn't have the strength of a duct tape,it is kind of like aluminum foil with a butyl rubber adhesive sealant backer...

Your shelter is coming along nicely...it looks a lot like a quonset hut now,and I bet it'll withstand a lot of snow load...wouldn't hurt to add a ridge board under the roofing from one endwall to the other,to help support the snow load...
When I was using a shelter I made of PVC plastic pipes bent in a hoop fashion,I shoved a 4x4 post in the center under the board I added in the center inside to join all the pipes together so they all shared the load,and to support the "roof"..it saved it from caving in many winters when we got a lot of snow..
 
Discussion starter · #74 ·
Well I was enjoying my end of November 50 degree weekends but apparently that's now come to an end. Fortunately I was able to find a little time to clean up around the shed and get everything under cover. I added quite a bit of square footage to this thing and somehow it is still full, go figure.

I am still working on coming up with a decent project to use this stack of saw oak wood on. We inherited it from my father-in-laws shed. I also added strips to the bottom edge of the back wall as you can see in the pictures. The back top is still open. Bridgman's idea of clear plastic has stuck in my mind & now I want to come up with some decent material to make that work. It is nice having the light back there even with the skylight.

I have also worked on some of the shelves I have planned for the interior and also winter roof support but those pics are still on the camera. I have good vertical height and shelves are a must to take advantage of the height and keep the light clutter up off the ground and out of the way.
 

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Discussion starter · #75 ·
Since I don't have the other pictures of the shed handy here are some intermission pictures for you.

These are pictures of the two wood sheds I put together. I don't think I have posted on these before. One was built to store lengths of cut lumber that I wanted under cover to keep the rain & snow off. It's supports are three lengths of telephone poles sunk in the ground with cross supports attached to them to hold the lumber. Very basic with some quick & dirty trusses for the roof.

The other one was built to provide cover for our campfire wood. It has a platform floor made up of pressure treated wood and is sitting on blocks of the same treated wood to level it. Nothing in the ground for this one. It has the weird shape due to it having first been a small rack that was 8ft wide and 2ft deep. I had that for a season but then needed more coverage so the more open backside was added. The open sides make it very usable.

Both of these are roofed with the metal sidewall material from above ground pools. This is great material for roofing projects like this. Highly recommended.
 

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Nice to see you back with an update.
A shed sure does fill up fast!

That open end sure lets in light.
Frost King makes a clear vinyl sheeting that people use to cover windows and doors on the exterior in cold weather.
Link here: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-K...-King-E-O-48-in-x-25-ft-Crystal-Clear-Plastic-Vinyl-Sheeting-V4825-4A/100175074

I still have a partial roll of it.
We use to put it on a wooden screen door and 6 leaky windows before we rebuilt the breezeway. Take it down in the spring, put it back on in the fall. Held on with screws and wood strips. Marked them and used the same ones in the same spots each fall.
Not sure how it would hold up in your application with nothing between the frame work.
Might need to have some bug screen tacked on the frame work first so the wind can not push so much on it.

I know it holds up in cold weather. I used 2 small pieces of it for windows on a large vinyl flap I have on my snow cab. I reach my arm out through the flap to lift and lower the snow blower. Bend it all the time. 4 years and no cracks in it so far.



Note the cover over the left garage door is advertising sign, white side out. I never used that door so I put up 2" of insulation on the outside of the door and covered it with vinyl.
Also used advertising sign vinyl to cover up and protect my Rube Goldberg motorized screw drive deflector control on the snow blower chute.
 
Discussion starter · #77 ·
JP Savage,
Thanks for that link, I am going to take a look at that and see if it would work for me. Might need a few extra cross braces to prevent flapping & wind damage but the extra light is always welcome.

Nice cab & great use of the banner to add weather protection to your additional insulation.
 
Just crossed my mind that stuff may come in different grades. (Thicker) For different applications.
 
Some mighty tricky excavating done there. Glad that you were cautious and safe. I haven't been on the forum much lately, but I wanted to check up on how you were doing with this. Thanks for the update
 
Discussion starter · #80 ·
Bontai Joe! Good to hear from you!

I have been meaning to get back to this post for a bit now so no time like the present. First we will go back in time a bit to when I was finishing up prior to winter. One idea I brought over from the old version was an upper storage shelf in the back of the shed. Now that the shed is wider I needed to expand the shelves to span the distance. I’m not putting heavy stuff up there, just a few vehicles! :)

The shelves are hung off the frame of the shed using coated hooks that are usually for hanging bikes and such in a garage. Placed on a slight angle they hold up the shelves perfectly. In addition they provide an internal pull on the walls which I believe helps compensate for the wider roof. The planks on the shelves are re-purposed ceder siding, nice & light.

After I had it up I realized that even with the cedar the longer span would need a little bracing from the bottom to prevent sag. I could have built the whole thing with more reinforcement but then it would have been way too heavy. Instead I put in a cross brace and a post in the middle to prevent any sagging.

Once it was in place I put the vehicles up. They fit perfectly.
 

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