My Tractor Forum banner
41 - 60 of 84 Posts
:thThumbsU

Nice work. I'm looking at constructing a bow shed 20ft x 40ft. I'm thinking of setting four foot long R/R ties 30 inches in the ground in gravel every eight feet. Then mount a 2in x 8in PT rail around them then set the bows on top of the rails. Would something like this help the longevity of the frame and keep the cover up off the ground away from moisture and critters?
 
Discussion starter · #42 ·
ben2go,
Your design sounds interesting, should be very stable. My experience is that the quality of the material for the cover is all important. The original tarp for mine lasted just a couple years. If it had been made from the same material as the billboard tarp it would still be going strong. Good luck on your project.
 
Discussion starter · #43 ·
I finally finished the new area for the shed in August. Not only did I haul out rocks, clay & dirt I then hauled smaller stone back in to cover the entire area. I did not keep exact tract of how much but it was several yards worth.

I have to check for another set of photos to show an interesting extra step I took while placing this top layer of stone. There was quite a bit of clay here and after it rained I would have water puddled in spots across this whole area. I knew if I just placed the stone on top of those areas the water would still be puddled just below the surface. This would concentrate moisture inside the shed area. It is not a sealed shed so it is not like it was going to be moisture free, I just didn't want to make it worse.

So I ended up digging a three drainage trenches (french drains) under where the shed would be located. These fed into another trench that extended off to the side and off the edge of the drop off to the wetland area seen in the earlier photos. I back filled these trenches with gravel for the water to drain through. I checked it again after another rain and now the water did not puddle and was able to drain through the rock and follow the slope of the trench away from the area.

Then I spent time pulling the larger stones out of the mix and getting everything fairly level.

I was very happy to reach this stage.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #44 ·
A few more pictures during the process of bringing stone back in to fill in the excavation area. As you can see it is a mixture of sizes. I pulled all the larger pieces and leveled the rest with the bucket & box blade. One bonus of the project taking so long is that there were a number of rainfalls that cleaned the rock and washed the dirt clear. It makes for a fairly nice surface when finished.
 

Attachments

:thThumbsU

Nice work. I'm looking at constructing a bow shed 20ft x 40ft. I'm thinking of setting four foot long R/R ties 30 inches in the ground in gravel every eight feet. Then mount a 2in x 8in PT rail around them then set the bows on top of the rails. Would something like this help the longevity of the frame and keep the cover up off the ground away from moisture and critters?
When working for a previous employer, I mounted a 36ft x 63ft tarp building on top of 8ft steel 5" x 7" columns made from 1/4" wall steel tubing drop we accumulated. The columns had horizontal pieces attached and then steel siding was attached to the horizontal pieces just like a typical building with steel siding. The building stood where we built it for 10 years then was disassembled and moved to another facility they owned and rebuilt with the original tarp. The tarp was held tight with ratchet straps that were located on each arch and tightened with a torque wrench two times each year. If I remember correctly the torque spec was 30ft lbs. The first few times the ratchet mechanism holding the tarp tight would tighten a click or two but after a couple years it rarely would be loose enough to be able to get to the next ratchet notch.

We had an overhead door and a walk in door in each end. Made a great place for performing final quality checks on service trucks in the winter. We tried to get a bit of warmth inside with a couple of radiant heaters, the only time you could tell the heaters were there was when they were on high and you were right under them. Inside out of the wind was still much better than outside when the temp was below zero and the wind was blowing.
 
When working for a previous employer, I mounted a 36ft x 63ft tarp building on top of 8ft steel 5" x 7" columns made from 1/4" wall steel tubing drop we accumulated. The columns had horizontal pieces attached and then steel siding was attached to the horizontal pieces just like a typical building with steel siding. The building stood where we built it for 10 years then was disassembled and moved to another facility they owned and rebuilt with the original tarp. The tarp was held tight with ratchet straps that were located on each arch and tightened with a torque wrench two times each year. If I remember correctly the torque spec was 30ft lbs. The first few times the ratchet mechanism holding the tarp tight would tighten a click or two but after a couple years it rarely would be loose enough to be able to get to the next ratchet notch.

We had an overhead door and a walk in door in each end. Made a great place for performing final quality checks on service trucks in the winter. We tried to get a bit of warmth inside with a couple of radiant heaters, the only time you could tell the heaters were there was when they were on high and you were right under them. Inside out of the wind was still much better than outside when the temp was below zero and the wind was blowing.
:thThumbsU
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
With the new site prepped it was time to empty, disassemble & move the shed. Time to get things moving.

First I had to evict a few squatters. The wasps really liked the folds of the tarp where it met up with the front and rear covers of the shed. Over the years I took out dozens of nests.

Next we emptied out most of the stuff that had accumulated inside. This is a great way to motivate yourself not to keep stuff. A couple of the pictures below show how the inside looked the past few years.

The Billboard tarp was really all that was holding everything together in the end. Once that was removed there was not much left of the original tarp. It made for a great skylight though.

There is also a shot showing where the original tarp was wearing through due to rubbing on the frame. This was on the back side where there was much less UV exposure due to the trees. In this case the issue was physical wear versus the degradation due to UV exposure on the front side.

Finally we were down to the bare frame which was holding up very well.
 

Attachments

Nice work on the building site. That is looking good.
Good idea putting in the french drains. I dug in 4 of them at my place and it really helps drain the water off that area and not be muddy.

I like those bill board tarps also. I have one on a 10 x 20 flat roof.
This will be the 5th winter. No signs of failure so far. (Oh dag nabit, I should not have said that :duh:)
Use one to cover the boat over the winter also so I can park it outside.

Are you going to have to haul in 3 or 4 inch layer of crushed top coat for the shed area? Or can you clean up the large rock and leave it?

Keep up the good work.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
Moving was as easy as I hoped it would be. I did not want to fully disassemble the shed as this would have been a lot of work. The plan was to crack the frame in half down the middle and split into two large sections. With a ladder & 2x4 for persuasion it came right apart after the center connecting bolts were pulled.

One piece of work that occurred before this was the pulling of the T-bar fence posts that I used as anchors for the corners of the shed. I had always wondered just how much resistance force one of these was able to provide. I was very satisfied to find that even with only a depth of about 15 inches my backhoe was challenged in pulling them out with a chain looped around them.

Then the advance planning paid off, having enough hands present to hold the frame while taking it down. Once split we could pick up one half the frame and slowly walk it to the new location. With much laughter and tripping and bumping and everything else that goes on when the helpers range in age from 8 to 50 we made it happen.

We positioned the two halves where it would be easy to lift and join them together again.

This is where my idea for shed expansion was put to the test. I had contacted Round Top and inquired about ordering replacement parts for the tent. I had the assembly plans and found the part number for the 50"+ leg segment with proper flared ends. They only cost $10 each for a replacement piece so it was $70 for the seven pipes & $20 to ship. The plan worked perfectly and I was able to dramatically increase the size of the shed. The piece was inserted between the two split sides as noted in the photo.

Disclaimer: Do not try this at home. The manufacturer in no way condones this and I am sure they would view it as completely unsafe. I on the other hand cackle with glee. For those with concerns about the ability of this to withstand WI snow loads be assured that I am just as concerned as you and will be addressing those.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #51 ·
ben2go,
You bet, if I was going to continue with using tarp material with the new design I would have not only used tape to prevent chaffing I would have used foam as well. probably pool noodles or pipe insulation foam. Foam, where I'm going I don't need foam. Stay tuned.

JP Savage,
Billboard tarps are simply awesome, an ultimate handyman's miracle material. No, I am not going to bring in any more material for the floor. I would need to buy it and the rock I have on site works just fine after the larger pieces are pulled off the surface. My thread on my retaining wall project has some nice photos of the amount of rock on my property. Check the pics out here:http://www.mytractorforum.com/321-scut-implements-accessories/235531-backhoe-thumb-used-retaining-wall-project-gc2410-4.html#post9490322
 
My friend's father had one of those tent garages given to him for free by his son-in law,after he became discouraged with it,the original cover had failed in only 2 years--he had bought it to park his pristine '68 Mustang in,one bad winter took a toll on the cover,the high winds started shredding it...
He decided to build a nice garage to store the car in,and to have for a workshop,and it was to be erected where the tent was,so he offered it to him free,provided he removed it himself..I think it was 12 x 20 feet,if not larger...

We went over one saturday morning and by noon we had it all down and loaded on his truck..we took it apart in sections like you did,to avoid having to take it completely apart...his pickup truck has ladder racks,we used long planks across the rack to place the tent frame on,in two sections..the ride to his house was memorable!..truck looked like a covered wagon without the cover!..

My friends dad wanted it to store firewood in,he uses a lot of it and also sells some off his 40 acre property...but he was reluctant to use a tarp or a new cover,knowing they were pretty fragile and dont hold up for long around here..

He had seen many of those metal carports being sold locally,and thought that metal roofing instead of a tarp would be ideal,until he priced some--it was over $35 a sheet and had to be ordered in...he looked at the plastic/fiberglass panels sold at home centers,they were not much cheaper,and much less durable..

He is always re-purposing things for uses they were never intended for,which I have in common with him..one day after he asked me if I knew of any used metal roofing for sale,I said sorry,I dont know of any--but I do see "free swimming pools" listed on craigslist often for "scrap metal"..most require you to provide the labor to take them down,which he had no problem with,that way he could keep the metal intact without it being folded or buckled up...

A 20' pool has 60+ feet of metal to make a circle or oval that large..that's a lot of good metal,at least 4' high...

He went on craigslist and within a month,he had 3 pools worth of metal for free,and he put 1x3 strapping across the frame of the tent using conduit clamps around the pipes,so no holes had to be drilled and weaken them..put them every 24" on center,and he used a metal shear he got from Harbor Freight that looks like an electric drill with snips on it to cut the metal--those cost $50,but he said it was well worth it--much faster and easier on your hands than tin snips or other methods..

He used those self drilling screws with rubber washers to attach the pool metal to the strapping..he did this in 2013,and it survived 8 feet of snow in 2015 without any issues,and that pool metal is galvanized with some type of epoxy paint over it,it'll take decades to rust,the pools were already over 10 years old and the metal was still in near perfect condition,so was the paint..
I thought it was a clever way to make a tent garage more "permanent"..

I have since collected a few pools myself for the metal off craigslist,I got lucky and found 2 pools already taken down and rolled up neatly,one roll I paid $10 for,all I had to do was get it in my truck and haul it home..
I plan to use it as metal siding over the plywood endwalls on my quonset garage,which I cant seem to keep paint or stain on longer than 2 years before it flakes off--never have to paint it again--first I have to replace some of the plywood--I was too cheap when I built the garage and skimped,I used 3/8" plywood instead of thicker,and now some spots on the bottom have rotted through..
I am tempted to add on a 12 foot extension to the garage,and if I do I may use the pool metal on the walls too,if I have enough..
 
ben2go,
You bet, if I was going to continue with using tarp material with the new design I would have not only used tape to prevent chaffing I would have used foam as well. probably pool noodles or pipe insulation foam. Foam, where I'm going I don't need foam. Stay tuned.

JP Savage,
Billboard tarps are simply awesome, an ultimate handyman's miracle material. No, I am not going to bring in any more material for the floor. I would need to buy it and the rock I have on site works just fine after the larger pieces are pulled off the surface. My thread on my retaining wall project has some nice photos of the amount of rock on my property. Check the pics out here:http://www.mytractorforum.com/321-s...ries/235531-backhoe-thumb-used-retaining-wall-project-gc2410-4.html#post9490322
:thThumbsU Staying tuned.:tango_face_grin:
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Tractor-holic,
I have two wood sheds constructed using recycled metal pool siding for roofing material. I also located a couple of pools worth and have put it to good use. Not sure if I have a post on those or not. Sigh... so little time.


Okay, feast your eyes on this. These are going to look nice! Used pole barn siding that I purchased through a company that takes these types of buildings down & resells the material. Not cheap, but less expensive than new material from the big box stores & of a higher gauge than I would have paid new for.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #55 ·
Ok, now for a series of assembly pictures.

The one splurge item was to pick up a couple of sheets of polycarbonate to make a skylight. I debated this for a while but in the end I think the difference is well worth the cost.

I started in the top center with these and worked out from there. The only issue was that I had to restart from scratch after getting the skylight & two end metal pieces on. While they started straight they didn't finish that way due to not having the shed frame footprint squared up.

After a little muscling and choice words we were off & running. The tractor worked well as a portable work platform and saved me a lot of up & down on the ladder.
 

Attachments

Discussion starter · #56 ·
Finally, now it is starting to look like something.

I did most of this work in the pictures below by myself. The big crew was only available for the first day. I used clamps and my ladders to help hold the panels in position. I would have really liked to have used the tractor for this but there just wasn't enough maneuvering room on the sides of the shed. The clamps worked but were touchy. I had to make sure they had a firm grip or they would pop off. I was also able to determine the best angle & position to place them the first time as this meant I did not have to adjust the panel once it was up. Moving a panel that was resting on a clamp was even odds on having the clamp pop off.

On this day I was able to get 6 panels up. I bought self tapping screws but found that while doing this by myself it was much easier to pre-drill with a slightly smaller bit before going at it with the screw itself. This was trial & error, after several screws popped out of the socket due to not having perfect downward pressure I switched to pre-drilling and didn't look back. It meant double handling the drill & impact drill but a lot less swearing & looking for dropped screws.

The panels are 14 feet long. This length allows me to extend the size of the shed which is 24ft from end to end. I overlapped a good bit in the center extended out well over 15 inches on each end. It's not much but it makes a surprising difference.
 

Attachments

Just tuning in to this thread. I have a question: will the clear panels on the roof stand up to your typical snow loads?

Thanks!
 
I had a lot of frustration when I used self drilling screws to secure the fittings onto a canopy frame I have,9 out of 10 screws would end up falling to the ground as I went to push on the drill,to get them to drill into the tubing..I had a 5/16" socket made special for the screws I bought too,that had a magnet made into it to help hold the screws,but it didn't work that great..

What I ended up doing was taking the hex head screws and simply tightened them in the drill's chuck by hand!..to my surprise it actually worked pretty good,I didn't end up dropping many screws driving them in that way..

I liked the idea of using conduit clamps to attach wood strapping to my friends tent garage I described above--we used 1/4" nuts and bolts to attach them to the wood,that way they could be removed or replaced easily if need be,and no worries about a screw pulling out of the wood ..it also eliminates having to drill into the pipes and let water get in them or weakening them..

This canopy frame I had trouble screwing together was only like 1" or 1-1/4" conduit type tubing,not very rugged--I was going to put 1x3 strapping across the tubes and put either metal from the pool or some 1/4" plywood I had,but decided it was not going to be beefy enough to withstand the snow loads we get here...last winter a large pine tree branch about 4" thick snapped off above it from wet heavy snow ,and it bent the top most pipe nearly in half..after that I never did anything with it--it can be repaired easy enough,but its so flimsy its not really worth the effort--I may toss a tarp over it before winter so some items can be hidden under it for the winter,and see how long it takes for the snow to wreck the tarp..
 
Just tuning in to this thread. I have a question: will the clear panels on the roof stand up to your typical snow loads?
I would be more concerned about having a flat top section WRT snow load. Sorry if I missed that being mentioned somewhere in this long thread but how did is come about to have that flat top? I'm guessing that some straight sections meant for the sides were re-purposed for the top and that it was not a factory designed option.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
Mikey4 & LLigetfa,
Yes, the wider flat top is from adding additional vertical supports to the roof section. The clear panels should not have problem supporting the snow load, they span a pretty short distance. Polycarbonate is a pretty sturdy materiel. In addition I will be adding extra supports inside the shed for the winter months to prevent any issues with buckling from snow loading. Even without any additional supports I was able to walk around on the flat portion of the roof without issue while fastening the panels to each other & the frame.

Tractor-Holic,
The pipe clamp panel support system sound interesting. I would be concerned that you would have to buy a lot of them to get a decent amount of connection between the panels & frame. My panels each have 12 screws attaching them to the frames and then at least another 10 connecting each set of overlapping panel ribs. But I'll have to agree that I do not know how long of a life span the screws fastening to the frame will provide me.

I was using a socket wrench adapter on the impact drill, once the hole was pre-drilled the socket did just fine holding the screw for the impact drill. It was when there was not a hole to hold the tip that the screw would want to go walkies.

I was also very satisfied with the bite of the screw into the frame. When I drove it in it seated nice & tight without any over rotation & striped threads.

It was also neat to see/feel the whole framework tighten up as more panels were fastened in place.


The next set of photos below shows the fastening of the panels to the curved portion of the ribs on the opposite side from the last set.
 

Attachments

41 - 60 of 84 Posts