My Tractor Forum banner
1 - 20 of 84 Posts

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
In preparation for winter I purchased a tarp style temporary shed to keep the elements off the tractor. Menard’s had a sale on them and I special ordered the Shelter Logic, Round Top version, in the 12’ wide x 10’ high x 24’ long. It took four days to arrive at the local store and was in two boxes which was easier to handle than 1 larger box.

This tent is barely large enough length wise but I did not want to jump up in price to the larger version. The reason for the tight fit is the backhoe. I need to drop the backhoe down to fit it in the tent and this lengthens the overall foot print of the vehicle

It has powder coated steel supports and a heavy duty tarp cover. The kit included both the solid rear panel and the front door panel with 3 zippers for access.

This was all to be had for the princely sum of $399.

Assembly:

The assembly went fairly smoothly. I did a quick count of the parts, reviewed the instructions and got to work. The instructions called for 3 or more persons to partake in the assembly process and that the anticipated assembly time was 4 hours. I was going to do it by myself with only occasional assistance from my wife. It was immediately apparent that who ever wrote the instructions did not really think things through and I made adjustments as I went.

The original instructions called for assembling complete rib sections and then attaching those together. According to the instructions the first rib was to be assembled and leaned against a structure or other non movable object while you assembled the second rib and prepared to connect the two together. Say What?

This would mean that the top rail would need to be assembled while up on a ladder as it is 10’ off the ground and you would of course need additional people to hand you cross pieces and to lean up the next large rib section. Ummm…. Not going to happen.

What would make more sense would be to assemble the top half of the structure completely at ground level where everything you worked on was easily accessible and your feet are planted firmly on the ground. This is what I proceeded to do. By using this method I anticipated the only time I was going to need assistance would be once the top section was complete and I would need to tilt it up on one side to insert the lower leg sections of the ribs.

My assessment was accurate and my wife and I were able to tilt up one side of the completed top frame and insert the legs. She could not lift it as high as needed and at the same time insert a leg segment. What she was really doing was just getting the frame somewhat off the ground in line with the half I was lifting to prevent the various pieces from twisting. Then I just worked my way along and put in the other legs. We switched to the other side and repeated the process without a problem.

This way was much safer and I believe much faster than using the ladder method and multiple people. Using the instruction method you would be up and down that ladder several times while also having to move it along to reposition as you worked on the various cross pieces and rib segments. Not to mention the fact that the full sized rib sections would not be the easiest things to maneuver around to get into position to drop a bolt through while perched on top of a ladder.

I did use the ladder for getting the tarps on. The end panel and the door panel go on first. To attach them properly you need to disconnect various things you just put together, what a pain. The door loops over the front and rear frame rib and you stick the various cross pieces through the panels. I must admit that this will keep them from falling off and I could not think of a way to do this easier than what was described. Doing each piece individually allows the frame to hold the trap up rather than you.

I was also able to put on the large tarp cover by myself. My technique for this was to unfold the trap and then re-roll it. The reason for this is the tarp was folded to fit in the packaging and not for ease of install. I re-rolled it so I could lift it up to the top of one end and then simply unroll it along the top rib. Once that was done I alternated pulling on each side until the material was stretched over the frame.

One caveat: I did this on a day with no wind. I would not have attempted this without additional assistance if there was any type of significant breeze. That tarp is huge, would make a great sail and would make putting it up in the wind a real pain.

The end panels are tightened down using a simple rope threaded through the edge. The main tarp is tightened down with a strap and mini ratchet. The ratchet strap allows you to get the main tarp nice and tight. Of course one of the ratchets on mine decide to crap out and I’ll need to call the manufacturer to have them send me a new one. This was the only thing that really malfunctioned.

One final step is to place the lower level cross pieces on the frame. The instructions call for these pieces to be installed on the frame prior to putting on the large tarp cover. Then you are supposed to undo every single one, individually, to attach the tarp using preformed pockets on the large tarp. This adds up to 12 cross piece segments, 28 clamp pieces and 44 nuts and bolts that they say should be put on and then immediately undone one at a time. Ummmm… don’t think so.

It is much faster to put the tarp on and then thread all the cross pieces though the pockets at the bottom of the tarp all at once. Then you can loosely attach the clamp pieces and adjust the tarp from side to side so it is properly balanced. Then alternating sides you can push down on the cross pieces to ensure the tarp is taunt prior to tightening the clamps. Doing it this way you could quickly get a few of the pieces on so that if a wind did come up you would at least be able to keep the tarp from flipping off. Doing it their way would have you needlessly taking off the bolts, clamps and cross pieces that you just finished putting on.

My final step was to place each of the feet up on a piece of pressure treated wood. This got the metal feet up off the rocky ground and gave me a place to fasten the feet. I then placed some hefty rocks on those boards to temporarily hold it against light breezes. This is because there were no included anchors with this kit. I will need to purchase some and get them put in. I would not want it taking flight.

My final total on assembly time was just under 5 hours. Not too shabby.


Review & comments:

The shelter overall is fairly nice quality and I anticipate it should last a few seasons if properly cared for. I would recommend it to others.

The instructions were of mediocre quality. They liked to use a couple paragraphs filled with part numbers and the usual do this before that and use this part here when a picture could have said it all quicker and more clearly. While looking this gobbly-**** over I envisioned a nice one page diagram that was color coded and numbered to the various parts, maybe next time.

There were some little diagrams but the complaint I had with that was the parts identified in the diagrams were given an item code on the inventory list (Example: 23010 and this number is printed right on the part) then in the diagrams that part was given a completely different number and referred to as number 6. You had to refer to another completely separate table to cross reference the inventory number with the assembly number. Why not simply label the part as number “6” in the first place??? It would make both the inventory easier to do and the assembly instructions easier read.

When first reading the instructions it seemed odd that they talked about installing the end panels and the top rail before they discussed the frame assembly. I just thought it was par for the course. But later I noticed that the instruction booklet had the page numbers in the order 1,2,4,3,5,6. The center page flipped so that page 3 & 4 were reversed. These pages are glued together so it is not a simple sorting error on my part. This did not affect assembly for me but I am sure it makes some people scratch their heads for a while before they figure it out.

I would have preferred that both the door and the end panel have ratchet strap tie downs rather that just the rope. I can understand they don’t want people to over tighten these panels but trying to tie a knot in a stiff nylon rope while trying to maintain tension on that rope is a pain.

In the pictures they show the door nicely rolled up and held out of the way of the vehicle inside. There are however none of the expected straps to make this possible. This must be one of those owner supplied features.
I would have preferred Galvanized frame material over the powder coated steel for longer life but every shelter with galvanized material was more than twice the price for the same size tent. Oh Well. This will get me by until I can get the real shed built.

The 30 day Guarantee & 1 year Warranty has some pretty stiff requirements. You are required to cover all the shipping and handling costs if you want to return the item for your money back. I would guess the freight bill would eat up a significant amount of any refund. You must also retain and use the original packaging material for shipping it. Like that is going to happen. In my opinion there really isn’t a warranty with hoops to jump through like that.

Shown below are:
1. Photo of assembly site w/various tractors & ickup with tent inside
2. Top Frame assembly - partial
3. Top Frame assembly - partial
4. Top Frame complete

Additional photos and comments to follow.
 

Attachments

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are 4 photos showing the frame after having the legs installed. I missed taking a picture when it was tilted with legs installed on only one side.

1. Frame Assembled
2. Tarp install w/Doors & Rear panels already on
3. Tarp install w/Doors & Rear panels already on
4. Trap draped but not fastened to frame
 

Attachments

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Here is a shot of my son acting as the job site manager. He was a stickler for testing to make sure the bolts actually fit in the holes and liked to take breaks while hollering encouragement through a mouth full of muffin crumbs.
 

Attachments

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
In the picture below you can see the bottom cross pieces I wrote about. They fit in those pockets on the bottom of the main tarp. You can see the bolts & clamp pieces that I have pre-placed for the assembly process. It really would have been a pain to follow the instructions and have put those on only to have had to remove them immediately after having draped the large tarp piece

Shown below:

1. Interior shot
2. Close up showing bottom cross pieces
3. Close up showing bottom cross pieces
4. Completed tent
 

Attachments

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Getting the tractor inside was not a problem. Plenty of room on the left and right sides. The outrigger/jack legs went down to the ground without getting close to the side walls. At the rear I have about 6 inches between the rear panel and the backhoe arm. I have the backhoe bucket resting on a section of log. Without the log the backhoe would slowly droop until it pushed out against the back wall of the tent.

At the front there is about 4 inches between the leading bottom edge of the bucket and the door

Shown below:

1. Tractor inside
2. Tractor inside
3. Completed Tent
 

Attachments

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Whew! Big post.

After having read some other posts about sheds like this I have additional thoughts and questions.

One of the threads mentioned using grommets to create breather holes at the top of the tent. The reason for this is because it gets hot inside in the sun. Anyone have pictures of that modification? I was in it for just a little while on a partly cloudy day and I could notice the temp difference. This will also raise the humidity level inside too.

What are your thoughts about something to cover the ground as a vapor barrier? Is that really needed? What would you recommend for material that will stand up to a multi-ton tractor driving on it?

One thread mentioned using a PVC pipe at the bottom of the door to assist in opening and keeping the door out of the way. They must have experienced the same lack of straps to hold the door open as I have. I am going to look into getting a section of pipe and maybe some Velcro straps.

I am in Wisconsin and received 100 inches of snow last year. I got the round top version versus the barn or peaked style to assist in keeping the snow off. But I expect to have to go out once and awhile to knock it off.

I also need to get some anchor stakes. Recommendations? What have you used that is easy to install and not terribly expensive?

Finally, critter, I plan to put out some bait blocks to prevent the mice from moving in during the winter. Any tips to go about this in an efficient manner?

Thanks everyone, hope you enjoyed despite the multi post & length!
 

· Retired and Busy!
Joined
·
10,195 Posts
Dragon:

Thanks for the pictures and very thorough review. It looks like you did a fine job and that unit looks very well built. I’m sure many are considering a similar purchase and your efforts will assist them for sure. Thanks for taking the time and effort to post that on MTF. That is also a fine looking foreman you had sitting in the chair (he was on break I guess). :sidelaugh
 

· Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Dragon,

Your shelter looks great so far! Good job.

I don't know much about Wisconsin's soils and how this would work out, but could you use the large auger-type, screw in anchors?

I bought several and used them on Mr. Purple95's portable greenhouse and they have held up through two pretty good tropical storms here in Florida. The anchors were about 30" in length and were a pain to get in the ground, but seem to be holding well.

FWIW, good on ya for investing the time and resources on a project to protect your tractor. Far too many people would just throw a blue plastic tarp over the operator station and call it good. :fing32:

Cheers,
dan :)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
6,842 Posts
I assembled mine by myself. I started out with the first section laying down and added the second section on top of it. after the first two sections were joined, I stood the unit up and just kept adding on sections. It did mean having to later remove the lower horizontals to fish through the tarp but that was no big deal.

I did get the wife to help me move it after the frame was assembled because SWMBO decided it was in the wrong place.

I drove stamped steel fence posts in the ground to anchor it and fixed the frame to them with hose clamps. I ran pipes through the hollow seam on the bottoms of the end pieces to limit their movement in the wind. I never use the centre zipper for entry as the pipe is one piece. I unzip both ends and roll up the door on the pipe, holing it up with bungee cords at the upper horizontals.

Anyone considering one of these should be aware that sweat forms on the inside and drips. I cut a vent grille into the rear panel. After time, the vinyl canvas will leak a bit and drip as well.
 

· Retired AF Lifer!
Joined
·
643 Posts
We have the Shelter Logic "horse run in" which is basically your structure, Dragon; just 5 arches long and with shorter leg extensions (20'Lx8'Hx10'W). It had no end panels so we installed a large tarp in one end (trapped when we racheted down the cover).
I have to ditto most of Dragon's "observations" on the instructions and part number marking. One complaint I had, was they have you assemble the frame completely, then disassemble the lower crossbar to slide it through the pockets in the cover. They don't make this very clear and it was a wee bit frustrating.
It's basically a sound structure though I anchored mine using 7' T-posts with only 1' sticking out of the ground secured with cables and clamps.
I assembled by myself and the tarp was a joy to install with the breeze that was blowing that day!
We use ours for hay, horse feed and the Kubota G1800.
 

· 20,000 +posts!
Joined
·
20,933 Posts
Great write up,and many good tips here for anyone planning to put up one of these shelters..I hate it when even when you follow the directions,they put you through a lot of unnessasary work,or make it more difficult than it had to be!..I put my shelters similar to your up alone,with NO help,I had to "improvise" ,but I managed to do it--and no ladders needed either!..but it was a challenge.no doubt!..mine were well used "freebies" a friend gave me when he had to move away to a trailer park,from a 6 acre lot!..

I used the green fence posts usually used on wire fence,to anchor similar tarp garages in my yard..cheap at Lowe's,and they hold well,drive them in at least 3' deep though,so they wont get frost heaved back out again!..I used worm gear hose clamps around the legs to secure them to the fence post "anchors",rather than drill holes, and bolt them to the legs..(it's 150' to the nearest outlet,and I dont own a cordless drill!)..
I doubt I could use the screw type anchors in my yard,since there is a lot of rocks and ledge ,it was hard enough just getting the fence posts in!..the 20 lb.sledge hammer is your best friend for that job!..

I recently got some wavy plastic roofing panels free off a Cragslist ad--I want to put some 1x3 strapping across all the "ribs" and screw the plastic roofing on the roof and sides,instead of using the tarp,or maybe put the tarp over it too,so snow will slide off more easily--(If both wont be too heavy for the tubing that is!)....

I also have many 12' peices of vinyl siding hanging around,I may use that to close in the sides as well,using strapping to screw it to,bolted to the pipes with conduit clamps..I need to get some room in my garage,so putting my tractors and other stuff out in these shelters is the answer..all I need is about 40 bucks worth of 1x3 strapping to get it done!..(money is scarce!)..

I'm tired of costly tarps geting ripped in short order after buying one,it seems like a tree always drops a branch right through every one I buy in a few weeks!..high wind here shreds tarps quickly too..so I'd rather use the plastic roofing instead..then I may not have to rush out and remove the snow off the roofs every time we get a storm..

My shelters frame are "gable roof" version...

I made a 12x20' "round top" PVC pipe frame vey similar to yours about ten years ago, to use as storage and a "greenhouse"..I drove pipes into the ground 4' apart ,12' wide,and slid 20' lengths of PVC schedule 40 pipe 1-1/2" I.D. over the pipes I drove into the ground,and drilled and bolted them to the pipes,and used 1x3 wood strapping to join all the ribs together in the center and the sides at the 10 and 2 o clock positions..then covered it with a tarp..it cost me a whopping 75 bucks,for everything!..I was plesased to find the PVC pipe was only about 7 bucks each for a 20 foot peice back then,it's still probably cheap..

It has held up remarkably well,it even got buried under 3' of snow during one blizzard,and the tarp and PVC pipes got squashed down BAD,but after I cleared off the snow, they sprang right back,and I can still do a chin-up on the arches and not break them..I weigh nearly 200 lbs too!..I though UV rays would weaken it,but not yet!..

The guys who sell those tent garages at swap meets here tell owners to cut a hole in the rear door and bolt in a small louvered screened vent about 12" square,to prevent condensation build up and sweating..my tarps had enough holes in them after a few weeks that that wasn't a problem in my shelters!..

Robert
 

· Retired AF Lifer!
Joined
·
643 Posts
Here are a couple of shots of our shelter.




Yeah, it's a little messy in there right now and we need another load of hay.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Dragon - I experimented with the gromments for a vent on the end panels; it did not provide enough air flow. So I cut an opening of about 12" x 19" in each end panel at the top and put a screen in the opening using duct tape to secure the screen to the end panel. Much improved air flow! The screen is not to keep out bugs, but rather to diffuse rain from blowing in the shelter through the opening. Use good quality duct tape and allow plenty of overlap of the screen to tape to the end panel!
 

· Handyman
Joined
·
881 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Just thought I would post a follow up on the shed.

This fall the outer cover started failing. From outside I first noticed a tear along the top about a foot long. After seeing that I went inside and looking out you could see dozens of spots where sunlight was starting to come through and would soon turn into tears too.

I purchased a roll of specialty duct tape made for use outdoors in extreme weather conditions to use as a stopgap to prevent further tears on the bad areas. I covered each small hole on both the inside and the outside.

I knew this was just a temporary solution. The fabric or the tarp material had become brittle and the woven strands were starting to give way. That is what was causing the small openings. These will eventually turn into full blown tears.

Over the weekend I was out there and now another, almost 2ft long, tear has appeared along the top.

So The tarp is pretty much shot. I do not expect it to last much longer. Just barely a 2 year lifespan, in Wisconsin, where the Sunlight exposure is not what I would call excessive.


Needless to say I am Very disappointed with the lifespan of the product. I expected failure from storm damage and the like. I did not expect the tarp itself to simply suffer what is essentially dry rot of the tarp material.

_______________

So I called Shelter Logic to determine the cost of a replacement.

They sell this cover in a 3 piece kit that includes the outer cover and the two end panels for $314.99

If you only want the outer cover and not the door panels it is $360.00

More for the door alone than as a kit because the kits are pre-made and on the shelf while a single cover would be made only upon request.

Shipping for the three piece kit is $25.73 which is surprisingly reasonable given the size and weight of the tarp.

What is really unreasonable is the $314.00 for the 3pc kit. Holy Moly!

I asked why was it so much when the unit only cost $399 to begin with.

The response was that the retailers buy them in bulk, say 10,000 at a time and then get a significant discount for that. Then the retailer can set their own sale price, in my case the $399. The Rep indicated that if I were to purchase this unit directly from Shelter Logic the price for it would be $769.00 for this size unit. Bad enough it failed at $399, if I had to add another $369 loss to the pile because I purchased it direct my head might "asplode". (see picture below)

_________________________

So I am up in the air as to what to do now. Replace of find an alternative. One alternative I am considering is to put one of these over the top of the shelter. http://www.billboardtarps.com/

The only issue will be coming up with a fastening system to hold it down.

Thoughts, comments & suggestions welcomed.
 

Attachments

· MTF New Poster
Joined
·
2,159 Posts
Billboard tarps are sometimes used to water proof underground houses.Not truely water proof,just slows the migration of water long enough to allow it to filter down into the french drains.If it'll hold up for 20 years under ground,it should do fairly well as a tent.You could buy grommet kits and lace the tarps to the lower support bar inside and the end poles like an awning.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Dragon - Use a billboard tarp and tarp "grabbits" (www.grabbittool.com) to attach the tarp to the frame. Move the lower braces that ran through the lower pockets on the old tarp, to the bottom of the legs. Use a 6" ball bungee cord tarp tie down to attach the grabbit tool line to the lowered, lower frame braces. Re-use the end panels.
 

· Nothing Runs Like A Deere
Joined
·
148 Posts
I have 2 of the 20ft long roundtop shelters. They are about 2 years old and one has totally failed. The second one has lost the front and back sides. The top is rotting also.
 
1 - 20 of 84 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top