On most of the x5xx models, the Suitcase Weights hang on the back of the frame, but on the x534, the steering mechanism occupies the space (inside the frame) where the weights would go. You need the weight bracket. (Also true on the x3x4 AWS models). Unless the spacers on the rear axle are in the proper position, the chains will hit and potentially damage your frame. The good news is that you can easily move the spacers without removing the wheels. Just turn the wheels to one side, remove the two bolts flip the spacer around and tighten the bolts up and then do the same to the other side. Elapsed time for both sides less than 20 minutes if you have not done it before (less if you have done it before). You can try it without the chains if you want, the worst that can happen is that you will get stuck. I am also using 100 lb on each rear wheel while snow blowing.

Mark

 

Hello all! I recently purchased a John Deere 47' snow blower for my John Deere X534. I have read many of the previous posts on this site about chains on an X534. I am trying to avoid having to take my rear wheels off and mess with the spacers on my rear axle. Has anyone had luck with using chains without messing with the spacers?

Also, I have a cement driveway with minimal slope, a couple of neighbors that I may help out from time to time with their snow have cement drives as well with minimal slope. Could I get by with just some weights on the back of my tractor? I only have turf tires on my tractor. I am thinking I need a rear bracket to hook these weights on?

Everyone's help and suggestions are appreciated!

You may want to look at HDAP tires. I use them on my X748 all winter with a weight bar in the back. I can hold 6 suitcase weights on the bar. Haven't had any traction issues in winter and I have a couple slopes to climb.

 

With the blower you should be fine just adding weight. Consider fluid filling the tires. Also does it have the dif lock?

With 125 LBS on the back of my dads X585 in 2wd with the dif lock at times i can plow most snow under 6" and I just throw it in 4x4 for more snow than that.

With a snowblower instead of the plow your basically just pushing the weight of the blower and the snow is being pushed through the blower. you don't consistently increase the force you need to push the snow as you go down the driveway like you do with a plow. Loss of traction is much less likely unless you have a steep driveway.

If it was my tractor i would get a weight bracket and 150lbs of suitcase weights, or fluid fill the rear tires and try it without chains. I bet it will do fine as long as it has the dif lock pedal.

 

I have an X530 with HDAPs and a 44" blower. My driveway has a section with significant slope, so I need chains. I use wheel weights (you can too), along with 2 suitcase weights. The setup works pretty well.

For your situation with the X534 and no significant slope, you can try it without chains and see how it goes. You can always add chains later.

View attachment 251901 Hello all! I recently purchased a John Deere 47' snow blower for my John Deere X534. I have read many of the previous posts on this site about chains on an X534. I am trying to avoid having to take my rear wheels off and mess with the spacers on my rear axle. Has anyone had luck with using chains without messing with the spacers?

Also, I have a cement driveway with minimal slope, a couple of neighbors that I may help out from time to time with their snow have cement drives as well with minimal slope. Could I get by with just some weights on the back of my tractor? I only have turf tires on my tractor. I am thinking I need a rear bracket to hook these weights on?

Everyone's help and suggestions are appreciated!


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With the AWS machines it sounds like it's easier to use 4 suitcase weights (I guess you need the bracket...) and wheel weights than it is to do the chains thing. I can plow uphill with X500 on a cement driveway that has a decent slope to with only 4 rear suitcase weights and the 50lb plastic wheel weights. I have not needed to use the diff lock and I have even driven uphill through plow piles (in the grass!!!) to get back to the garage. It stinks that you have to buy a weight bracket, but honestly it's probably cheaper than a set of chains. Even with chains you might need some sort of additional weight on the tractor, so start with weight... Wheel weights are the easiest to add (no brackets to buy) so try that first.

 

After using the blower for one season, this is what I think. At the minimum you need the suitcase weights and possibly wheel weights. I have long thought weight is not a big deal with a blower vs. a plow because you are not pushing as hard. Well, that's not entirely true.

What I discovered is with the blower down, traction is not an issue on level ground. The challenge is when you need to maneuver with the blower up, all of a sudden, the blower shift the CG forward and lifts the rear end enough to make you lose traction in more difficult situations. With 2WD, you will be relying on the weights to maintain traction and shift the CG rearward. With a smaller machine like a X534, the blower will represent a significant weight shift, the weight is important.

I think the guys are right, start with weights, see how it works before messing with chains. I can see it being a pain to get on and off, not to mention it can leave marks on your driveway. I would avoid it unless you absolutely need it.

Good luck.

 

Better to overdo than under, IMO. I'd add 4 suitcase weights + wheelweights.

 

For chains On the X534 You do Not Need Spacers.

This Is Taken from The X534 Operators Manual

Using Tire Chains (X534)
It is recommended to use ballast on the machine to increase traction. However, if chains are desired for winter use, the following procedure must be performed prior to operation with chains:
1. Remove rear wheels. See "Removing and Installing Wheel Assembly" in the "Service, Miscellaneous" section.

Picture Note: Right side shown, steering stop in "normal" position.
2. Remove and retain two M8x30 cap screws (A) and M8 locknuts securing adjustable steering stop (B).
3. Flip steering stop to the "chain" position, with the larger lobe pointed toward the rear axle support casting (C), and secure with M8 hardware, removed earlier. Tighten hardware securely.
This will stop the rotation of the spindle early, preventing chain contact with the frame and other critical components.
When the chains are removed, the stops should be reversed to the "normal" position to allow for full tire rotation and maximum turning performance. Turf operation with the stops in the "chain" position will result in less turning performance and slight scuffing due to imperfect turn geometry.

The Only thing On a X534 You will need spacers for Is a 30inch Tiller If You want to Use One:thThumbsU

 

I wanted to thank everyone for your responses! We had a freak snow storm here Sunday night and I was able to use the blower on Monday morning! I got along really well without chains or weight. I do believe that I will need weight as I struggled on my neighbors drive with a bit of incline. I will get those before next season! I was also a bit disappointed with the white marks left on my driveway. i had the skid shoes all the way up per my dealers recommendation. Is that how all of you operate your blower on concrete drives? Should I look into putting down the skid shoes, or finding poly skid shoes? I thought the skids would probably scrape worse that the blower? Should I not be worried about the skid marks as they will eventually go away? I would welcome anyone's suggestions!


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