As you said, I'd be concerned about the engine moving around during use. As the load on the belts increases, the engine will tend to distort the mounts further, putting things more out of alignment while it's working the hardest.

What about isolating just the handles? Putting some rubber between the handles and where they mount to the frame, something like that? Maybe a second set of rubber where the handles bolt together, closer to the grips, if possible? Something like this would at least let the belts ride normally. Though depending on how the cables and controls are routed, you could run into issues where allowing the handles to move around a bit might mess with your gear selection, etc.

 

Hi,

Yea try putting rubber between the chassis and the handles, my sears 11/30 dosent vibrate or at least i really dont pay attention to it lol.

Thanks,
Liam

 

Thanks Guys, I did have a Craftrman, same 10/29 but the handles continued right around like a horseshoe and the wheel drive and auger levers were at 90* to the handle risers. There were times this was a more comfortable position to grip but I can't say the vibration was any less.

If you ever have one of these 10hp Tech engines off, start it while on the bench and try holding it down. You will actually start to laugh, or at least I did.

I considered isolators between the handles and the base but the machine really takes too much man handling to add flexiblity there.

On another machine, I cut a truck mud flap / belting and put it between the engine and base but the insulation effect was lost once I tightened the bolts down. The rubbers with threaded studs out each end seemed like they might help.

 

I ran into a vibration issue with the HF212 on my motorbike. It was crazy.
I used isolators like you picture. The problem with them is belt load.
When the load is strong- the engine tilts. I had to make more mounts with rubber snubbers to reduce engine movement. That worked.

One other thing is you will need longer belts.

If you put rubber mat underneath the engine- you need to make rubber washers to mush down on top of engine mount pads, then vibes will be dampened both under the engine and above it.
You may want to try that first since you already did the mat below.

One other thing- adding weight to the handlebars will change the natural frequency they ring at (it can help some), stuffing junk chain, sand, cable or whatever down them will do it. I like heavy steel cable, since it is removable.

 

Thanks Professor, you make some valid points.

The engine I put the belting under was actually on a sod cutter and the mount holes were slotted for belt adjustmment so unfortunately it still had to be pulled down pretty much rigid.

Filling the hollow handles with sand may help as they do act like tuning forks.
I have also considered adding an additional length of steel to each side to triangulate the handles. That would eliminate the fishing pole effect but may actually intensify the vibration with it now having no place to disipate.

 

I used these on an early Ariens with a clone engine retrofit...It was buttery smooth, but it did pop the clutch idler out of position quite often. I suppose with further engineering I could solve that problem. The engine does move around more but nothing excessive, (I suppose it could get excessive if they become oil soaked). The best would be to have a company make some polyurethane isolators (like skateboard wheel material), they'd be firmer and more chemical resistant than rubber.

 

I will second the suggestion on isolating handles. Thats what they do on motorcycles. At least the handlebars were like that on my 2001 Fat Boy.
Seems it'd be a lot easier to modify as well. :dunno:

MU

Two isolating washers for each bolt, one inside the frame and one between the frame and the handle.

You can even add a third on the outside of the handle so that it is fully floating.

Thanks for the suggestions Gents. I haven't done anything about this thus far as it was just too darn cold to mess around. The machine itself works great, I simply end up with numb fingers after using it for awhile. Just last week I picked up a used Honda HS 80 tracked blower that runs really smooth, typical of Honda engines. Unfortunately, or more appropriately, fortunately I haven't had any fresh snow to try it in and all the old white stuff has melted. I will get further into this over the summer.
:thanku:again. Here's pics of the recently acquired Honda.

 

I will second the suggestion on isolating handles. Thats what they do on motorcycles. At least the handlebars were like that on my 2001 Fat Boy.
Seems it'd be a lot easier to modify as well. :dunno:

MU

 

Two isolating washers for each bolt, one inside the frame and one between the frame and the handle.

You can even add a third on the outside of the handle so that it is fully floating.

 

Hondas are the best you won't be disappointed

 

As much as I love my old Kohler K single cyl thumpers, I have to admit, in my experience Honda makes the nicest small engines out there. Just recently I picked up a Walker mower with a Kawasaki FE350 so I will have something else from the same era and market to compare the Hondas to.

I know someone who just got an HS80 Honda blower,he's been trying to locate a service manual (not an owners manual!) for it online (free ,hopefully),but so far he has had no luck...if anyone here has any leads,I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know..

A service manual would be very much appreciated here as well. Thanks for putting out the word TH. I don't even know what year this HS80 is as I drove it up and down the driveway a couple times and parked it in the shed for a warmer day.

One thing I did notice and would like to change is, this one has the bucket skids mounted behind the bucket. The previous owner has allowed the auger to rub right on his ashphalt so the auger edges will need dressed with a file before repainting. Other HS80s I'm seen have the skids mounted directly below the auger shaft and I am wondering if this was a production change or if a kit was offered afterwards.

Thanks Guys.:fing02:

 

I know someone who just got an HS80 Honda blower,he's been trying to locate a service manual (not an owners manual!) for it online (free ,hopefully),but so far he has had no luck...if anyone here has any leads,I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know..

 

You should investigate anti vibration gloves, also.

 

Those rubber mounting set up while damping the vibration are thick and small in Dia. which will allow more engine movement under toque.

Check and see if you can get the rubber engine mounts like used on a 1972 artic cat snowmobile. They are 2 inches in Dia. and a half inch thick so don't distort as much.
I used them to mount the engine on my home built wood splitter and on my troy built horse when I did the engine swap.

You might want to look into some anti vib handle bar grips for the handle bars to. Several ATV, snowmobiles and dirt bikes use them. They are thicker and softer. Brother in law has a set on his Burton commercial walk behind mower.