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Pull a Heavy Load From The Front Or The Rear?

10K views 47 replies 20 participants last post by  eKretz  
#1 ·
I have an X585 and I am going to try to move a large truck about 30 feet in a straight line on flat ground and was wondering if it is better to pull from the front of the tractor going in reverse or from the rear pulling forward?

Now! Before anyone flips out I am not going to do it if it seems to be too much for the tractor. I'll just use my Tahoe.
This is more of an experiment to see if it can do it without over stressing the tractor and which end/direction is better to use. It may not have enough weight and just spin the wheels!

Thanks!
 
#3 ·
I most likely will but was just wanting to see how it would do and what in general is the best approach for heavier loads.

I know my 332 tries but can't get traction even with the weights and tractor style rears.
 
#4 ·
I expect you'd get more traction pulling from the rear of the tractor, driving forward. If pulling hard enough that the front wheels wanted to lift, for instance, that would shift more weight onto the rear wheels. Plus, if there was anything in the transmission that was stronger in one direction than the other, I'd expect they'd bias it towards being stronger when driving forward.
 
#8 ·
I am anticipating tire spin before hurting anything.

Also, this is one of those "can it do it" not I have to do it!! Certainly don't want to hurt the tractor!

You know how it goes - have tractor, have truck, we can't leave well enough alone and have to give it a go!
 
#10 ·
Pulling from the rear is best in all conditions. You'll be putting the max force on your rear tires. Don't worry about damaging hydro, your tires will spin first. Bob
 
#18 ·
It is almost impossible to damage a hydrostatic tractor by pulling something. You will either spin the tires or if traction is good you will trigger the pressure relief valve. In any case no damage will occur. If you sit in one place with the transmission whining at you it will heat up the oil.

You could strap your tractor to a giant Redwood tree and it will just sit there and whine at you - no harm done.
 
#12 ·
I pull a lot of very heavy objects and my only concerns are the tongue weight and chain/cable/load being pulled from a height lower than the tractor rear axle in order to prevent tipping. I have adapters for my sleeve hitch, and the linkage is adjusted/modified so that I can lower the hitch almost to the ground if needed.

My cart is a 3/4 ton cart that has been overloaded more than once. I've pulled that type of load up steep hills through mud with no issues, so I'm sure you'll be fine pulling a free wheeling truck.

Just remember though, it may be easy to get the load rolling, but it's another thing all together getting the load to stop. Be careful.
 
#14 ·
How big is the truck? If it's not a semi tractor you should be fine. Keep the pull point slightly below the rear axle as has already been said. I've pulled around 4500 pounds with my x595 many times before with no issues. I used to pull my trailer over to a place down the street that had free clean fill, park it on a block at the right height for the hitch, then disconnect and fill the trailer with the loader bucket, re-hitch and haul it home and dump. Trailer holds about 2.5 yards of dirt heaped up. I've lost count of the number of loads I hauled.
 
#15 ·
I agree with all who say pull from the rear and hook up low. The limiting factor will probably be traction (wheel spin). If you can overcome that then be prepared for the front wheels to rise off the ground. Pay attention and be prepared to let things back down before it gets too far up. You won't hurt the tractor.
 
#16 ·
I've towed a Masada miata over a mile with this with some gradual hills. Only spun when I hit the gravel drive on an incline. I added a 2" receiver to be able to use the trailer.
 

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#19 · (Edited)
Thanks for all of the great info.
The truck is an old Crane Carrier cab and chassis that was our old well service truck. No engine or transmission, just frame and cab.
I sold it and someone is coming to get it so I just was going to pull it out a bit for easier access. Also a great excuse to see if the new mighty X585 can do the job!

I think we all are guilty to some degree of wanting to see how tuff or strong our tractors are!! After all, we wouldn't have come up with tractor pulls if we weren't interested!

I'll try to remember to take a picture.
 
#21 ·
I've used my x734 to pull my power wagon (6k-7k) around the property and up the driveway (20% incline) into the garage. Also use it to pull carts and trailers(6x12) around with firewood/mulch and random stuff. I would say you would be fine as long as it's not stuck to the ground or the brakes are sticking.

token picture of the power wagon
 

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#24 ·
Here's the follow up!

The X585 was no match for the truck. Didn't budge it! Spun all four wheels without much effort at all.

I was going to try a hook up from the front of the tractor to see but decided to just throw in the towel on the whole thing and not push it!

I think if the truck tires were completely aired back up instead of being a little low it may have helped but it is on grass so getting it rolling is the tough part.
I think the tractor could do it easily on a harder surface.
 
#26 ·
New HDAP's! I think it is mainly because the truck has sunk a little into the ground from sitting and some of the tires are not completely full of air. Just a lot of resistance to get it rolling. I think once it would start to move it may be able to tow it ok though.
 
#30 ·
Yeah it didn't stand much of a chance if the tires are sunk in. Doubly so if they're also low on air. It probably wouldn't have hurt to get that chain hitched parallel to the load either, but that isn't going to make any difference by itself due to the other circumstances. The way it's hitched high at the load means as soon as there's any tension it's lifting weight off the back tires of the tractor.
 
#31 ·
I was going to try to get the attach point on the truck lower but it wasn't as simple as it would seem. The front axel is still pretty high by the way it is designed. The lowest points would be out by the wheels but that isn't the best way to pull either.

I don't think getting a lower pull would have helped much on this case!
 
#35 ·
Do you have AG tires on the tractor?
 
#36 ·
I've hooked up my trailer loaded with 2 5x5 rolls of hay, the hay itself is probably close to 8-900 pounds or more each with my JD D135 and that includes trailer with no problem it isn't so much the weight as it is how easy does the trailer roll if its on flat ground. the hardest part is to get it to move once thats done its over on flat ground
 
#38 ·
Looks like that truck has been there since Moby Dick was a minnow. Maybe some small explosives to break the wheels free first might help.
 
#45 ·
I bet even a 4x4 pickup would struggle to get that truck moving--once it is free of the ruts it would likely pull fairly easy though...
A stretchy snatch strap that will allow you to get a running start will let you move things that wont budge with a chain ,without tearing up the tow vehicle or the load..

I once used one to pull a stuck Mack tractor that was hung up in a parking lot at work before..tried a chain first,all that did was make the truck sit and spin,with the snatch strap I was able to get my truck going about 5-10 mph and it yanked it free..
 
#46 ·
Yep, my trusty Tahoe pulled it without blinking an eye! I just wanted to move it some to cut the grass and so people could inspect the axels before buying.
 
#48 ·
Whether the hydro has a built in relief or not could surely depend on the individual model of tractor. It is true that the older x-series (x465, x475, x485, x495 and x575, x585, x595) did not have any closed loop hydrostatic circuit relief unless it was added by installation of the THRV. Implement relief (i.e. loader hydraulics) is a totally different thing and it's on a totally separate circuit from the closed loop hydrostatic system on the aforementioned tractors.