It's a great running engine, but.....the carb needs some attention. The engine is hydralocking. There are no numbers on the carb body. (pictures attached). The only info on the engine is : 4 cycle Easy Spin. 379887 are the only numbers I can find on the shroud. I'd like to revise the engine, too, from the manual wind-the-knotted-rope-around-the-pulley to at least a more 'modern' rewind cord. Would prefer to add a starter, but there aren't any mounting holes for one. This is a pretty old engine. So, to get it going for now, are cab rebuild kits available for this? Where can I get one?
mrcaptainbob
Old B&S 10 hp....
It's a great running engine, but.....the carb needs some attention. The engine is hydralocking. There are no numbers on the carb body. (pictures attached). The only info on the engine is : 4 cycle Easy Spin. 379887 are the only numbers I can find on the shroud. I'd like to revise the engine, too, from the manual wind-the-knotted-rope-around-the-pulley to at least a more 'modern' rewind cord. Would prefer to add a starter, but there aren't any mounting holes for one. This is a pretty old engine. So, to get it going for now, are cab rebuild kits available for this? Where can I get one?
Attachments
Thats a 2 piece Flo-Jet carb. Used on the larger B&S engines. Kit similar to this
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRS-291691...ton-Carburetor-Overhaul-Kit-060301-061311-080302-/170744875614?oid=223199205729
I think you go by the model # on the engine, I may be wrong.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRS-291691...ton-Carburetor-Overhaul-Kit-060301-061311-080302-/170744875614?oid=223199205729
I think you go by the model # on the engine, I may be wrong.
Hi,
The engine model numbers should be stamped in the blower housing or the air deflector on the top of the engine. I am guessing that your engine is in the 3000 series. With the model number go to this site to find a carb kit C & C Distributors, Inc. Northern Indiana's Largest Service Distributor for Raisman, Rotary, Stens, Champion Spark Plugs, MTD, and Kohler Engines & Parts!
Dave
The engine model numbers should be stamped in the blower housing or the air deflector on the top of the engine. I am guessing that your engine is in the 3000 series. With the model number go to this site to find a carb kit C & C Distributors, Inc. Northern Indiana's Largest Service Distributor for Raisman, Rotary, Stens, Champion Spark Plugs, MTD, and Kohler Engines & Parts!
Dave
Not my first time taking a carb like this apart, so I did remove the valve seat and it's extension BEFORE dismantling the bowl from the body. This is what I found. The stem extending from the seat is slightly bent. Suspect the p.o. was in there in the distant past. However, the intriguing part is finding an extra 'stem' resting in the bottom of the carb body. Right at the bottom of the center hole of the float chamber. Looks like it may have been used at some point, as it is shiny at the insert end. Or....does this go someplace else in the carb body?
By the way, thank you all very much for your fast and helpful responses.....
By the way, thank you all very much for your fast and helpful responses.....
Attachments
That long piece is the fuel nozzle. Looks to me like that extra piece is broken off of the other part. It is quite long. see diagram....
![Image]()
New ones are available
New ones are available
Just some info
Briggs flo jet carb. appears someone tried tasking it aprat BEFORE taking out the jet. Those old flo jets are expensive to replace unless you get lucky and find another donor. You need to review the procedures to taking them apart and assembly. Lots of info on the web about such. You need to add a fuel shutoff valve and Briggs red inline filter instead of relying on the carb float needle to hold back the gas when the engine is not running.
For your rope starter. If you will shop around you can find recoil starter for those that mounts under the flywheel nut, BUT try to find the old style with the starter dog that is non_plastic. The modern day non-plastic type recoil is too wimpy for a 10 hp engine. (they break)
The modern plastic type recoil requires cutting off the crankshaft stub and once you do such you are stuck with only using the plastic wimpy type recoils.
Briggs flo jet carb. appears someone tried tasking it aprat BEFORE taking out the jet. Those old flo jets are expensive to replace unless you get lucky and find another donor. You need to review the procedures to taking them apart and assembly. Lots of info on the web about such. You need to add a fuel shutoff valve and Briggs red inline filter instead of relying on the carb float needle to hold back the gas when the engine is not running.
For your rope starter. If you will shop around you can find recoil starter for those that mounts under the flywheel nut, BUT try to find the old style with the starter dog that is non_plastic. The modern day non-plastic type recoil is too wimpy for a 10 hp engine. (they break)
The modern plastic type recoil requires cutting off the crankshaft stub and once you do such you are stuck with only using the plastic wimpy type recoils.
Great diagram, Poncho62. Very helpful. Well, Forest Gump, based on what you're sayin', I'll stick with what's there. Not willing to cut crankshafts on an otherwise great engine. If it's not flooded it actually starts pretty easy. With all of your help I'll get past this issue and be back up and running in another week.
Rats! I just now removed the parts from the little container. Fuel in the bottom of said container! Turns out there's fuel IN the float! No wonder it was flooding!! Close inspection shows a small crack. Rats. I can silver solder it with no problem. But, how do I get the remaining bit of fuel out? I'm considering opening that crack a bit more. Any suggestions?
As poncho62 points out-
You shouldn't get fuel in the crankcase from this type carb. (Green Path)
That's one of the characteristics of an updraft carb.
You shouldn't get fuel in the crankcase from this type carb. (Green Path)
That's one of the characteristics of an updraft carb.
The aftermarket ones are pretty cheap. There's hundreds to choose from. This seller has a large list of engines on the page. Briggs part number 392587 is a good starting point for searching these carbs. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor...ne/113396044198?hash=item1a66ee51a6:g:qYEAAOSwDBxb-NPc:rk:4:pf:1&frcectupt=true
Attachments
So far, you haven't specified if this is a horizontal or vertical shaft engine.
IF horizontal, is the cylinder is perpendicular to the ground or leaning over at 45 degrees.
My first guess would be a 25 series, which would be "about" correct for 10ish HP engines.
IF horizontal, is the cylinder is perpendicular to the ground or leaning over at 45 degrees.
My first guess would be a 25 series, which would be "about" correct for 10ish HP engines.
I've had limited success soldering up floats that had pinholes or cracks--to get the gas out of a float ,I just left them in the sun for awhile (when it was warm out,not winter)--or I laid it on my wood stove for a few minutes,the gas will evaporate quickly..
Sometimes the solder makes it too heavy and it will still "sink" enough to let it flood,depending on where the leak was--farther away from the hinge pin will make it tend to droop more..also some solder usually ends up inside the float before you get it to seal up and flow good,which can affect it..
It's best to just replace it if a new one can be had..
Sometimes the solder makes it too heavy and it will still "sink" enough to let it flood,depending on where the leak was--farther away from the hinge pin will make it tend to droop more..also some solder usually ends up inside the float before you get it to seal up and flow good,which can affect it..
It's best to just replace it if a new one can be had..
Briggs flo jet carb's on flea bay link.
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XBriggs+flo+jet+carb.TRS0&_nkw=Briggs+flo+jet+carb&_sacat=0
and a updraft briggs flo jet carb normally won't flood a engines crankcase with gas. (or hydrolock the engine)
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...1313.TR1.TRC0.A0.H0.XBriggs+flo+jet+carb.TRS0&_nkw=Briggs+flo+jet+carb&_sacat=0
and a updraft briggs flo jet carb normally won't flood a engines crankcase with gas. (or hydrolock the engine)
I think the hydra locking happened from cranking the engine with a carb full of fuel from a bad float. It just sucked in whatever was in the carb. Pulled the cord the third time and moved the log splitter a bit. Removed the plug and pulled the cord again and it was like an Oklahoma geyser. Clearly something was wrong.
Not sure why fuel can't enter cylinder if float fails . If green path of fuel is blocked from exiting anywhere (by mounting bolt) and fuel tank is mounted high enough so that fuel level in tank is above the intake manifold to block height then fuel will seek to be level. I have a toro snowblower and bottom of tank is slightly higher than than the carb fuel intake so fuel level in tank can easily be above the intake port. Or am I missing something?
Here's the update: It lived for a quite a while. Had a serious issue with it starting at one point. Had very old B&S with a starter/generator, pulley, belt and it all was an exact fit with this splitter engine. So, it's all together now nd I am pleased with being able to turn a key to start and turn the key to stop. Nice. But....we're back to the flooding again. I replaced the whole carb and it seemed to work okay for a few times, but then IT started the flooding issue. So, I got the rebuild kit and installed it in the original carb. It was okay for a couple times, but now went back to the flooding issue AGAIN! There is fuel in the bottom of the carb. Both carbs.
How I shut the engine down: Turn off fuel at tank bottom located fuel bowl. Replace air relief cap on fuel tank. Allow engine to run some to help remove some fuel and any possible pressure from carb fuel bowl, then shut engine off. A month or so later...attempt to start it and it's flooded again!
I'll remove the existing original carb (that I rebuilt) and go back to the new replacement.
One more issue....fuel likes to leak from the high speed adjusting screw unless the engine is running. It may drip a bit even then, but it still drips.
Need some suggestions. The engine otherwise runs super great!
How I shut the engine down: Turn off fuel at tank bottom located fuel bowl. Replace air relief cap on fuel tank. Allow engine to run some to help remove some fuel and any possible pressure from carb fuel bowl, then shut engine off. A month or so later...attempt to start it and it's flooded again!
I'll remove the existing original carb (that I rebuilt) and go back to the new replacement.
One more issue....fuel likes to leak from the high speed adjusting screw unless the engine is running. It may drip a bit even then, but it still drips.
Need some suggestions. The engine otherwise runs super great!
If you 'turn off fuel at tank bottom located fuel bowl.' and you still get fuel in the bottom of the carb, then either your carb creates fuel or the cutoff at the bottom of the tank is not working.
As far as I know, the valve must leak for fuel to get where it is getting. I think I'd be looking for another shutoff valve. The one you are using doesn't work.
tom
As far as I know, the valve must leak for fuel to get where it is getting. I think I'd be looking for another shutoff valve. The one you are using doesn't work.
tom
I agree with the above post, you need an inline fuel off. I have the same engine on an old Suburban. When I finish using it I cut off the fuel and let it stop the engine. That way there is no fuel in the carb and it starts as soon as I open the cutoff and choke the engine. I believe my engine was made in 1986 and still runs great. It does “Hunt” some but a good cleaning would probably take care of that.
Think about this:
You need to install some new fuel lines a red briggs type in line fuel filter and a NEW inline plastic fuel cutoff between your old tank cutoff and the new Briggs Red fuel filter. (just leave your old cutoff and settling bowl in place.
Some trash is getting into your needle and seat. Only takes something like a Knats hair bristle to start the seep leak.
Jets leaking. Some of the jets have a itty bitty tight fitting o ring on them and a small flat washer and a spring. It's common for the little washer to get lost and the spring then chews on and ruins the little o ring as the jet is adjusted then you will have a slow drip when the jet is below the level of the bowl gas. Some high speed jets are on the bottom of the bowl and the little o ring MUST be used to prevent the drip. Inspect this area and you will see what I'm indicating. You can get the itty bitty o ring replacement from a o ring kit.
:tango_face_wink:
You need to install some new fuel lines a red briggs type in line fuel filter and a NEW inline plastic fuel cutoff between your old tank cutoff and the new Briggs Red fuel filter. (just leave your old cutoff and settling bowl in place.
Some trash is getting into your needle and seat. Only takes something like a Knats hair bristle to start the seep leak.
Jets leaking. Some of the jets have a itty bitty tight fitting o ring on them and a small flat washer and a spring. It's common for the little washer to get lost and the spring then chews on and ruins the little o ring as the jet is adjusted then you will have a slow drip when the jet is below the level of the bowl gas. Some high speed jets are on the bottom of the bowl and the little o ring MUST be used to prevent the drip. Inspect this area and you will see what I'm indicating. You can get the itty bitty o ring replacement from a o ring kit.
:tango_face_wink:
There is a Briggs service bulletin on Flo-Jet carbs that leak around the main jet emulsion tube,they put out a kit with a teflon washer to help seal where it meets the carb body...
I used to have the PDF file of it saved,but its not on this computer's hard drive--you may find it by googling "leaky flo-jet carb"..
I used to have the PDF file of it saved,but its not on this computer's hard drive--you may find it by googling "leaky flo-jet carb"..
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
