Welcome to the forum! Glad to have you here! Do you have just the tractor with no attachments? Check the dimensions and weight in your manual, or grab a tape measure and measure it. If you have ANY plans for adding front or rear mounted attachments, you need to add their length AND weight. What ever length you come up with, add 3 more feet to it and that's what you need. Why the extra 3 feet? It's for fuel cans, shovels, rakes, a push mower, tool boxes, and 47 other things you didn't think you would need until you needed them. I had a 6' X 10' trailer for a small garden tractor and soon wished it was 12 or 14 feet long to hold other equipment.

 

Thanks

 

Okay, I did a quick look-see at the Deere brochure on line and your bare bones tractor with NO options and NO attachments is 1800 pounds and approx. 60" wide X 120" long (5 foot X 10 foot). A mower deck will add width and weight. I hope that helps you out a little. By the way, a NICE choice on your tractor! Here is my 2 cent recommendation for a trailer for your tractor with a mower deck. I'd get something at least 6" wider than the mower deck and at least 14 feet long and rated for at least 3500 pounds to allow you to add wheel weights or suitcase weights to the tractor in the future. If you have plans for a loader and/or a back hoe, then add length and weight accordingly.

 

You didn't say, does the tractor have a loader on it? I personally always lean to dual axle trailers so that I can limp it wherever I need to go in case of a flat or something else, even though I carry spares as well. I recently bought a trailer for the side by side I've ordered and am waiting for. The side by side itself is right at 10' long. So, I bought a 14' long trailer to accommodate the UTV as well as a couple of coolers, tool boxes etc...I've also used that trailer to haul my BX with FEL. I'll tell you this, if I'd have had my brush hog on as well as the FEL, it wouldn't have fit on the trailer. Remember, just because you bought the trailer with the intent on hauling your tractor, what ELSE may you haul with it? And will the trailer be adequate for those other things as well? Might as well try killing two birds with one stone, if possible. Like I said, I like dual axle trailers, and I like a pair of 3,500lb. axles with them. That allows for a total of 7,000 GVWR. Weight-wise, you can haul pretty much anything you want with that trailer that will apply to a tractor. Also, BE CAREFUL if you want to use the trailer's ramps (if you get one with a ramp), that it will accommodate the tractor's weight. many trailers with ramps will not support the weight of a tractor.

 

You may want to consider what your pulling this got to have trailer with.

 

My brother used my 7x14 TA to haul his Kubota Bx23s and it was snug.

 

Basically with the Gate up the rear hoe was just rubbing on the mesh and the FEL bucket was resting on the front rail.

 

I have a 3032E and trailer it on a 14 foot dual axel. For just the tractor it is ok since you can get the tractor positioned correctly for weight disbursement.
If you have to move the tractor toward the front of the trailer then it is going to be putting a fair amount of weight on the tongue and really squats the truck.
The other consideration is the vehicle you will use to tow it. My 1/2 ton Chevy pulls it ok but but if the tractor is toward the front of the trailer it drops the rear of the truck quite a bit. Adding booster springs would help but then you loose the ride. The big thing I have seen though is the 1/2 ton does not have the stopping power for the weight. Under normal conditions where you make normal stops it is ok but a panic stop will scare the **** out of you! For a 1/2 ton truck you are getting to the point where trailer brakes are almost a necessity.

I'm going to a 16-18 foot trailer with brakes. I can get the weight positioned better and have a safer stopping ability. Also cheaper than a 3/4 or 1 ton truck at this point!

 

The other consideration is the vehicle you will use to tow it. My 1/2 ton Chevy pulls it ok but but if the tractor is toward the front of the trailer it drops the rear of the truck quite a bit. Adding booster springs would help but then you loose the ride. The big thing I have seen though is the 1/2 ton does not have the stopping power for the weight. Under normal conditions where you make normal stops it is ok but a panic stop will scare the **** out of you! For a 1/2 ton truck you are getting to the point where trailer brakes are almost a necessity.

Just for the heck of it I looked up a half-ton Ram pickup. The one I looked at was rated to tow just shy of 13,000lbs. That's more than capable of pulling a 3-4K tractor, and a 2,500lb. trailer. That being said, I agree, it should have a brake controller for the trailer brakes.

Also, I've been using Air-Lift air bags in all of my trucks that carry spreaders for about 15 years. They'll carry 4,000lbs. of salt in an 800lb. spreader with zero sag in the rear end. When there's no load in the bed, you let the air out of the bags, and it's got soft, factory ride again.

Air Lift® Air Springs | Air Suspension Kits, Air Ride Suspension & Air Bags (airliftcompany.com)

 

note, that's likely for a brand-new Ram pickup (and similar Ford/GMC/Chevy pickups). Older pickups will have much lower towing limits, and it also depends on how the vehicle is configured (for example, the diesel version of my '04 Sierra 3500 has a much higher towing rating compared to the 6.0L gas version).

You need to find out the towing rating for the truck you have, and also take into account what you have loaded in the truck itself (as the more you have loaded in the truck, the less it can tow).

And then many locations require working trailer brakes for trailers over a given weight (where I am, it's over 2k lbs), which also requires a trailer brake controller in the truck.

 

I have a very well built small trailer that I would recommend for use with your CUT. The company is here in Ohio about a half hour away so no shipping cost for me. I think it is rated for one ton but believe me it will haul anything you can put on it (with in reason), if I want to haul a load of stone brick I use my PJ dump trailer. This trailer I have is not for highway use to be pulled at high speeds. I load it to the max with manure and firewood mostly and once each year we get several cubic yards of mulch for landscaping.

This trailer is built by a company called Country Manufacturing in Fredericktown, Ohio.
Trailers, Wagons, other things all well made.

I have used and abused this trailer with NO problems what so ever and owned it for at least ten years.

 

I have a Kioti CS2210 SCUT, with FEL, and usually attach a rear ballast box or blade. It can weigh in at about 2,400 lbs, and I tow it with my Toyota Tacoma.

After much study, I bought a PJ model UK142, 77" x 14' utility trailer, with T/A, electric brakes on both axels, dovetail, Bulldog coupler, and heavy-duty ramps.

The dovetail prevents scraping with a mower deck or my front-mount snowblower, and the ramps are rated for the full trailer load. I love it. Cal

 

I have a Kioti CS2210 SCUT, with FEL, and usually attach a rear ballast box or blade. It can weigh in at about 2,400 lbs, and I tow it with my Toyota Tacoma.

After much study, I bought a PJ model UK142, 77" x 14' utility trailer, with T/A, electric brakes on both axels, dovetail, Bulldog coupler, and heavy-duty ramps.

The dovetail prevents scraping with a mower deck or my front-mount snowblower, and the ramps are rated for the full trailer load. I love it. Cal

View attachment 2515822 View attachment 2515823

I am considering going to electric brakes on my 14 foot trailer. How do you like them? What mods did you need for the truck? Was it costly?
Weighing my options on braking.

 

Sorry, RMcDaniels, after rereading your post I realized you are looking for something to haul your tractor with, 3 Legged Dog has you covered, I strongly recommend the electric brakes, not at all complicated and easy to maintain.

 

I have electric brakes on my Suretrac 7k trailer on BOTH axles and they work great. I definitely reccommend having brakes on BOTH axles and not just one like some companies will do. I pull this with my 2011 F150 5.0 and it does great. I have pulled 8500 lbs with this truck (not on this trailer) and while It has plenty of motor the truck just doesn't have the suspension aka payload to really push it much more even though FORD has these things rated for 10k plus. The load and Tongue weight would have to be juuuuuust right. In the real world, that likely isn't going to happen.

Sorry a little off topic. 16-18 foot would be a good fit. 20 is getting pretty long. My 14 foot is good for what I need. My dad has a 20 footer and it is noticeably longer.

 

What year is the Tahoe? It likely has support for adding a trailer brake if it was made after 2000 (I don't know about earlier ones), particularly if it came with a hitch/trailer plug.

 

Thanks. It is a '97. I have not looked it up yet. It did have the rear plugin to the 4 wire trailer light pigtail.

 

Sorry, I don't know the setup for that generation truck (GMT400 platform), I've got a GMT800 ('04 Sierra 3500). If your Tahoe just has a 4-way connector, you need to also switch that out to a 7-way connector (like in post #24 above). For my truck, that would just entail replacing the plug and a short harness to a wiring connector box on the frame nearby, don't know how involved it would be.

This MIGHT work for you, IDK, it may depend on what specific options your Tahoe came with:

https://www.etrailer.com/p-C55774.html?hhyear=1997&hhmake=Chevrolet&hhmodel=Tahoe

 

From your post, I think we are in the same part of Ohio. Oddly enough, I bought my trailer at an auction in Fredericktown.

 

A single axle of any size is too small. The 2990 gvw minus the 1000 plus pounds it weighs empty puts you just about max cap with no extras. Jump to a 2 axle and you will get around 5200 lb payload. Get brakes, they are well worth it and some places require them. I personally like Big Tex or sure trac but there are a lot of other small builders out there with a nice product. Do be sure it has ramps or a gate that will carry your tractor weight.

 

You can find some manufacturers have an upgraded 5200lb single axle from the 3500lb axle. I almost went this route on a 7x12 but opted for the 7x14 tandem.