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Homemade Tractor Scoop / Loader

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24K views 28 replies 14 participants last post by  sschesser  
#1 ·
Quick attach loader


Hey guys, sharing my homemade front scoop that I am building to fit on my ‘79 John Deere 210. *

I've always wanted a small loader/scoop, and getting the 210 last year, I thought I would give it a try.

With a smaller yard, the scoop is intended mostly for mulch, compost, moving brush, and maybe throwing a few bags of rock in- basically a very cool wheelbarrow.

A few items were musts:

1) Easy on/off. *The loader needs to be easy to get on and off since I will not be using it every day, and I don't want to spend forever hooking it up when I need it.

2) Winch powered. The 210 doesn't have hydraulics, and I didn't feel like spending $400 on a 40 year old hydraulic system that I would then have to further modify. *Winches will suit me fine for my needs and the limited lift capacity. And they will never leak. *If a winch goes bad, the market is flooded with tons more.

3) I wanted more lift than a Johnny Bucket, but don't need to load a truck. *The extra lift is mostly to get over obstacles in my garden when moving compost, and to put yard scraps into the compost bins.

4) Powered lift and powered tilt. *I did not want the pull-string dump as I would like to be able to control laying down material, such as mulch. *I also want to be able to back drag, so it is necessary to hold the bucket in the dumped position.

5) Capacity of about 250 lbs. The 210 should already have 1 inch spindles, and I wanted a bucket about the same width as the front tires. *More on theoretical capacity later.


I got really lucky when I found a guy selling the mount from a 200 series snowblower locally. *The mount is ¼ plate and will provide plenty of strength. Best of all, it mounts right up to the tractor by sliding the bottom holding pins, and locking with two beefy spring pins. *Price: $40.

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I began by mocking the rough design in wood, and quickly learned that a simple straight arm loader would not dump far enough, so I had to make mitered arms.

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Not wanting to redo all of my right woodwork, I made a 3D CAD model which allowed me to pick the right length and angle to get a 3' lift (2' clearance when dumped), while keeping the bucket pivot 18" from the front of the tractor.

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For the bucket size, I was able to scrounge a piece of 1/8" aluminum diamond plate, free plus $25 to have the bend put in it. The dimensions worked out to 10" x 10" x 39", the perfect length to come just outside the wheels. This also fits into my capacity goal (approx 2.25 cubit feet of material, assuming 100 lb/cubit ft of dirt gives a 225 lb bucket capacity).

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After a load of steel, I got to building:

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Adding uprights to support the lift winch:

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I used another winch with cable wrapped in opposite directions to push-pull the bucket tilt, fulfilling my powered curl goal.

https://vimeo.com/165065714

And finally, I reinforced the crap out of the aluminum bucket with 1/8" x 1.5" x 1.5" angle. I am able to step in the center of the bucket with little to no bend (and let's just say that I am pretty close to the designed capacity...).

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So there it is, about 5 nights of work into it so far.

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I still have to add sides to the bucket, paint, and wire up relays to this nifty joystick from Amazon.

I will add quick connects for each winch so that, come winter, I can put the snow plow (winch lifted) or snowblower (soon to be electrically lifted, and hoping for electric chute control) and just use the same electrical ports and joystick to control all implements.

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#2 ·
Nice to see you get her done and not be afraid to go for it. Post up some in use photos too.
 
#3 ·
Thanks techie! I read your post on the plucket quite a few times as I was thinking about building a scoop.

I have to finish up the sides, wiring and paint, but I can't wait to get some real dirt in the bucket. I'll post more as I get through the build.

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#8 ·
Today I finished running the wiring, got the armrests mounted and the joystick mounted to the armrests.

If anyone is looking for some nice inexpensive armrest addons, these are on Amazon for $11 each. I made simple L-brackets that extend from the seat mounting holes to the armrests. Very simple and quick job, and they give me a place to mount the joystick.

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#10 ·
Neat !!

I bet it was fun getting it dirty.

Now on to Amazon to look at joysticks ( for no apparent reason ) other than
you never know when you might find it handy to have around.

Wiring looks good - as well as the entire build.
Good job. :fing32:

Put your boots on when in the shop , you never know what might slip !!


Donewrken



:fing32:


.
 
#14 ·
#13 ·
That elec joystick is slick! I want one..... for something? :dunno:
 
#15 ·
I finally got to put the scoop to use today putting in the garden. I have two large compost piles that have been full for some time. I used the scoop to move the compost to the garden and it worked surprisingly well.

I had an issue at first with my wire rope joiners coming off on the tilt-back side as I was pushing into the pile (that side takes all of the force transmitted from the cutting edge). I solved that by switching to a closed loop end with a winch hook, then I had no problem pushing into the piles.

The winches seem to have enough power to lift a pretty full bucket of compost, so mission accomplished. My educated guess is that mulch will be much lighter than that.

I also used it to scoop up some river rock in the front of my house (just for fun) and it took a 1/2 bucket no problem (I couldn't get it any more full than that because the rocks just kept posting away).

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#20 ·
Be careful with heavy items like stone on a 210. After many years of using my Johnny Bucket Jr. with the electric actuators, I found out that the one weak spot on a 210 is the half moon shaped part of the frame where the engine flywheel is. Right side if I remember right. I broke mine there and attempts to weld it are not too pleasing. To do it properly, you really need the engine off or a better welder than I had.

I was going to beef that area up, but I ended up moving my scoop over to my Gravely 20-G instead.

Larry W.
 
#22 ·
By wire, I mean removed cable from the winch so that I was down to 1 to 2 layers on the winch spool. Winches get their max lift capacity closest to the drum. In addition, they use less energy to lift a load when the cable is closest to the spool.

As far as winch wiring, I simply hooked them up to my relays instead of their original controls.

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#24 ·
Update: I built a quick set of forks out of 2x4 today to help me get the plow and snowblower from the shed to the garage, and I also used it to move some junk to the shed well as take the mower direct back.

The forks fit into the bucket, and upright 2x4s prevent rotation of the forks. I wrapped a ratchet strap around each side to hold it in and provide more support. It worked pretty well as you can see.

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#26 ·
Looks a whole lot like the 2x4 prototype forks I built for my bucket, although mine were made from garbage lumber. They lasted a surprisingly long time before I finally had to build the metal ones. I expect you will find them quite useful.
 
#27 ·
Excellent build..bucket and forks! I'm currently fabricating a loader for my X530. I'm using part of a johnny Bucket Jr, and some of my design, a hybrid so to speak. Do you have a wiring diagram for the relays/joystick? I'd really like to see it. I'll post my build when it's finished.
Again...excellent build. SC