Is the purpose to start the same engine every time or a universal contraption to start engines in general??

I would guess a old starter could be rigged up somehow(so the gear will still kick out when it starts).

But if its to start one particular engine,,,,the money and time spent,,it would be cheaper(easier for sure) to buy a stock starter for it.

But I think it could be done, modifying a old starter.

Just my thoughts,,,maybe someone has a better idea.

 

Cordless drill no(torque) , but maybe a cordless impact gun. Be forewarn a kickback could ruin the gun or break a hand/finger real easy. Stay with the pull start/real starter is the best advise I think.

 

Cordless impact is a no-go, good chance of splitting the flywheel or stripping the nut.

Ive started a 6hp Tecumseh with a 12v cordless drill, 2 starts smoked the drill.

I then went to a larger 120v drill, did alot better, the problem is that once the engine starts, you need a 1-way clutch to allow you to safely remove the drive from the engine.

Honestly...they start on 1 pull, and pull extremely easily....its more trouble than its worth, plus you would have to have the drill on hand incase it shuts off, because you couldnt keep the recoil on it, and also electric start it.

 

Hello Everyone:howdy:,Thank you for all of your input and i think i will put this on the back burner for now.Tootles:050::050::bellyemot:bellyemot:050::050:

 

just use a bolt and a socket in a half inch drill as you will already have the cover off of the engine. have started a lot of engines from 4 hp to 24 hp with no problems.

 

Can you explain a little better?? How are you connected to the flywheel?? And when they start how do you dis engage??

This sounds like it could be dangerous.

 

I do this all the time... Even at my work place we have a 20 hp Kohler that we use and if some forgets to shut off the gas it's almost impossible to start. This engine only has recoil on it. I've started it many time with a 14 volt Dewalt drill and socket adapter. You need to be very careful because it will rip the drill right from your hands when the engines starts. On my Lawn boy I drilled a hole in the top cover big enough to put a socket down to the flywheel nut and it's the only way I start it is with my drill. Putting one of these between your drill and will help a lot.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ko-Ken-3755-Rachet-Adaptor-3-8-45-Gear-Teeth-/220993782723?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item33744183c3&vxp=mtr

 

What happens when it starts?? Does the socket go for a ride???

 

Years ago,my dad bought a kit for our Craftsman push mower he saw in Mechanix Illustrated magazine that allows you to use an electric drill to start the engine..all it consists of is what looks like a nut made onto a socket,that replaces the flywheel nut,and the top of the "socket" looks like pipe,that has a spiral slot made into it--and the "bit" that goes into the drill is noting but a peice of hex stock with 2 pins that fit onto those 2 slots...arranged so when the engine fires up,it will "twist" the drive bit out of engaugement...this engine was a Tecumseh that had the "pull up" style recoil,so there was no typical recoil over the flywheel to get in the way of ths special "nut"...but they did list other types for typical recoils ,that required some modifications...

This was back in the late 70's,before we had cordless tools of any value,so we used a 3/8" AC drill to start the mower...but the thing started so easily with the recoil,I rarely used the drill,only my dad used it--he had parkinsons and found pulling the rope quite difficult...I still have one part of that kit,and the box it came in,but I lost the drive bit part of it,but one wouldn't be hard to reproduce...I'll see if I can find the box and post up the name of the company and adress...(doubtfull it still exists today though!)...


I have used a monster 110V 5/8" drill I had as an engine starter many times...my biggest problem using it was the socket would usually stick to the flywheel nut as I pulled off the drill once the engine started,and it would rev up to 3600 rpms with the socket wobbling wildly,and it often flew off and became a missle!...I took out a window on my truck one day when that happened,thankfully it wasn't the windsheild...it'd put a nice dent in your skull I bet,if it clocked you.....

 

I have used a monster 110V 5/8" drill I had as an engine starter many times...my biggest problem using it was the socket would usually stick to the flywheel nut as I pulled off the drill once the engine started,and it would rev up to 3600 rpms with the socket wobbling wildly,and it often flew off and became a missle!...I took out a window on my truck one day when that happened,thankfully it wasn't the windsheild...it'd put a nice dent in your skull I bet,if it clocked you.....[/QUOTE]

:sidelaugh:sidelaugh:sidelaugh

 

Some times I need to use the Cordless on my 3.5 Briggs push mower, It has the recoil start, I just use a socket to fit over the recoil clutch and let it rip. Works fine, the clutch prevents the drill over speed.

I only do this to get it running, then I kill it and replace the pull starter.

 

I know this is a old thread,I do use my 18V cordless, however I have a home made trick of my own, when starting my 5hp horizontal b&S. I will go take a pic of in in a while and post it up, then let me know what ya think?

here ya go...works like a charm, from what I remember
I have a new clutch installed and, a used part from another broken clutch. I also I hammered in a 1/4" drive extension into the used RATCHET REWIND STARTER, AND THE ORIGINAL PULLEY REWIND STARTER WHICH IS METAL creating this contraption

 

I also years ago made a rubber cone to fit into the rope cups of the older engines.

 

nice to know that we all will try anything, in order not to have to pull that dang rope

 

I used my 20v craftsman on a small outboard I was having difficulty starting and after quite a few sessions of this it pulled the left hand chuck retaining screw in half.
Mike

 

well we use cordless for almost everything lol