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Craftsman RE - backfiring and running issues

8.9K views 47 replies 16 participants last post by  tomw0  
#1 ·
Hey all,

So my mower has been down for a few weeks now. Thought it was just a fuel delivery issue, so I rebuilt, and eventually bought a new factory carb. Now that that is installed, it's still running rough and backfiring, and sometimes dying after a few minutes.

Here are the specs.
Craftsman RE 10 HP riding mower - 502.251220
Engine Model - 143.951010

Got this mower for free from a buddy's dad. Everything has been running fine, but he did suggest a carb rebuild initially just because it was idling rough.

So as I said, the carb has been replaced with a factory one. Everything around the carb has been cleaned up.

Overall list of what I've done.
Carb replacement
Spark plug replacement
Oil changed
New fuel line with inline filter
New muffler
Cleaned all components around carb
Removed head and cleaned carbon deposits (did not clean valves though).

Overall, trying to figure out if there is something else I can do...or if the last resort is take it to a shop and have them work on it. Shop did tell me, the mower is only worth about 300 so I wouldn't want to get into it for much more.

Any help or insight would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brett
 
#3 ·
It's old. I'm pretty sure these were manufactured back in '95.

The weird thing is.....the mower was running relatively fine after I picked it up from my buddy. It mowed my front rear lawn (like .6 of an acre) and then started acting funny.

If it was a valve adjustment/replacement......is that something a relatively handy guy can do. I've done a lot on vehicles, just never really have torn down an engine to work internally.
 
#4 ·
There are some amazing videos on YouTube, may take some time, but you should be able to find a valve adjustment video for your engine.

Mike
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the responses guys.

In reference to the valve adjustment, does that usually require removing them? At that point, would it just be easier to get a new exhaust and intake valve and replace them?

Bill - I have taken the spark plug out and reconnected it, and tried starting it while holding it to the block and the spark looks fine. Is there something else I should do? Also, when you say coil, are you referencing the alternator?
 
#7 ·
QUOTE:"Now that that is installed, it's still running rough and backfiring, and sometimes dying after a few minutes."

Key is 'after a few minutes'.
Does it run well until it acts up? If so, one would think that the valves are functional, but may need adjustment as the parts expand when they heat up, changing the clearance.
It is also possible that there's a fuel flow restriction, that allow fuel to fill the float bowl fully, but after the engine starts and runs for a bit, it is using more fuel than is flowing, so the level falls in the bowl over time until it becomes too lean to run.
After it has been run for a while, and is starting to act up, you could drop the float bowl and catch the fuel contained inside. Compare that volume to the normal 'full' volume after it has rested for a while. If there is a difference, you have a fuel flow problem, possibly material inside the tank gathering at the outlet and slowing the flow.
The backfire is sometimes a symptom of 'lean' codition. I never figured out why, it just is that way. If you are lacking fuel as above, you'd get lean condition, possibly causing backfire. If the intake valve were sticky, or was adjusted too close, so it did not close tightly, it could cause backfire. Enough to keep you busy for a couple hours?
tom
 
#8 ·
Thanks Tom.

The "after a few minutes" is with it running fairly rough. After I got the new Carb on, it started up and would get running, but would be fairly rough, and both sitting/test driving (a circle around the lawn) it ran rough and almost died a few times until I engaged the clutch to let it catch back up.

Overall, it is rather sporadic. It will always start using the choke, and then moving it to "fast", but it usually takes a few start ups to finally get it to stay running. Then when its running, it is rough, backfiring randomly, and then eventually dying or coming **** near close to dying before I cut the engine.

I've checked the fuel flow, and it appears to be good. The fuel filter is clear, so I can see gas flowing thru. I also know the bowl is filling becuase I can push the little release on the bottom of the bowl and have fuel flow out.

One other symptom is that I can no longer put it in the "slow" throttle setting. If I do, the engine dies.
 
#10 ·
So, forgive me for the "stupid question" but the coil on a lawn mower is the same as the alternator, correct? Or are we referencing something different?

When I search for coil in the parts manual online, the only thing that comes up is the alternator (apart from some bushings).
 
#13 ·
It would seem some engines are sensitive to the brand of plug used. I have never used the E3 plugs but have stuck with Champion for the Lawnboys. A cheap test, but I would put in whatever brand of plug the manual calls for. Good luck! Bill
 
#19 ·
I also do not like the E3 or any specialty plugs. Just the standard champions Run the best in Briggs and Stratton and Kohler engines. I'm okay with the NGK and The Hondas. The new Eco plug Champion makes is fine too and probably a little bit better but basically it is just a smaller wire probably Platinum tip plug.
The coil is not the alternator they're referring to. Coil, Magneto, ignition module are all interchangeable terms basically. The alternator is also referred to as the stator that is typically under the flywheel on a riding mower engine. The coils of wire on the stator sit there and the flywheel which has magnets underneath it spin around it to create the current to charge the battery. There are a few smaller walk behind push mowers with 6 horsepower or less that have a charging system. This is usually a small half the size of the coil, coil of wire that sits outside the flywheel that is used to create current from the spinning magnets.
Most of these create ac power which is what you get from spinning magnets over the coils of wire, then they either use an inline diode or a voltage regulator to turn into DC to put into the battery.
 
#26 ·
i was gonna say check this - also check your seat safety switch / clutch safety switch.
 
#27 ·
Most of them do not have a fuel shut off from the factory. They're more than likely though there is a solenoid on the bottom of the carburetor that has 12 volts going to it when the key is in the on position to keep it open to allow fuel to flow into the main jet on the carb.
. You should be able to hear it and or feel it when you click the key on and off as it clicks open and close.
 
#29 ·
If the carburetor is new, I would suspect electrical, like coil. I've had to replace the coil once and due to poor installation, the backfire was occurring so I reinstalled following recommendation from this forum and the backfire is gone. Now it occasionally back fires only on engine shut off. This I believe is the faulty solenoid that is right under the carburetor bowl. But this I can live with.