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Rutersville

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
After 15 years I finally got my Grandfathers 1950? 8N trailered to my farm in Rutersville Tx..
It was a long journey for the little 8N, starting out as a brand new purchase by my grandfather in Salisbury N.C., it was passed down to my father and lived in Nacogdoches Tx from 1999 until last Saturday when I finally took full possession of it.
It took me two trips with a 16ft flatbed trailer from Salisbury to Nacogdoches to get all the Dearborn implements and the tractor, and then two trips from Nacogdoches to Rutersville, but it’s ALL accounted for and now the real fun begins!
The tractor only has 1832 original hours on it, zero dents, and other than missing the shift knob, one severely rusted wheel and a rusty gas tank it’s near perfect. It was housed in a barn for its entire life, so I only plan on doing a mild restoration on it.
It’s been sitting up for about 4 years now, so I’ll need to do a good bit to get it running
I’ll start posting pictures of it as I progress.

My game plan is as follows:
Complete tune up and change all Fluids
Fog the cylinders and do a compression check
Replace gas tank
Rebuild Carburetor
Replace tires and wheels
Paint

So here are my questions:
1. Oils, anyone run synthetics in them?
2. Paint, how do you prep the chassis so that it doesn’t flake off in a year?
3. Stick with points and condenser or modify to 6v electronic ignition?
4. Best manufacturer/supplier of a replacement gas tank?
5. Where can I find original color paint?
 
Welcome to the site. Your tractor lived most of her life out my way. Glad you finally got her home with you. Do a search with the serial number to find out what year tractor you do have. Post some pics when you can. I can't help you with your questions for I ask more than I can offer but the guys here will chime in and help. Good luck with her.

Red
 
I like a tractor that has full knowledge of its history. You probably do not want to use synthetics in the engine since they have a lot of detergent and tend to make old engines leak. On a fresh rebuild I would have no problem using synthetic oil. It would be best to continue using the same oil that has been used in it all along.

Paint, unless it is really bad why not clean it real good and let the scratches and scraps tell the story of its life.

A good tune on the OEM 6v is the way to go and stay away from the electronic. I like EI but for a tractor like this I would want to keep as close to what it was when it was bought by your grandfather. Plus the 6v EI has not had a good track record.

A good source of parts is Just 8N's but also check with our sponsors.

Oh and welcome to the site.
 
Welcome to MTF!!!
I prefer my tractors original, in terms of paint. A tractor is only original once. It can be "restored" indefinitely. Once it's restored, what makes it special and unique is irretrievably lost.
I agree with John, leave it 6V with points. They were designed with points and have gone 50+ years with them. As long as you have the right gap and they aren't burned they will work fine.
I use Just 8N's and Yesterday's Tractors for parts. I like them a whole lot better than Steiner.
I run SAE 30 non-detergent oil.
 
I'd really like to see it once you get a chance to take pictures. :fing32:

I'll agree, their only original once.
I like to find equipment in original, cared for shape. Clean and fix what's needed and keep running it. Paint here and there is fine like wheels etc.

MU
 
This tractor is nice. Looks to be late 1950/52. Looks to be in very good original shape except the back tires were changed out. Please don't repaint it just to make it pretty. I would just do what you need to do to get it back to running shape and clean it up. this is a fine tractor that should be keep in original condition and you have the history of it which is even better.

Kirk
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Ok, ok.
Everyone tells me not to paint it.
Can I at least wash the dirt off of it?:)

I really wanted to paint it simply to protect it from any further rust.
Heck, I've already spent 30k building a barn for it, (don't tell my wife, she thinks the barn is for her crap).

It's definitely a 1950 model. (316437) After cleaning the stamped area with a concoction my wife uses for tile grout it was clear enough to read.

Except for maintenance records I really do have a great deal of historical knowledge of it. My brother found the original sales receipt for it in an old box and I should get it in the mail in a few days.

My mother was a real shutter bug when we were kids and took dozens of pictures of me and my brother, sisters and cousins riding and driving it.

My grandfather welded an old metal seat to a dovetail plow facing backwards, and I use to ride on it while he plowed. His garden was roughly 4 acres and full of arrowheads that would "pop" up as he plowed.
It prolonged the plowing, but I would hop off the seat, grab the arrowhead and hop back in the seat.
I found over two hundred of them, mostly broken, but the whole ones I have in three display cases.

I have to replace the gas tank, it's far to rusted on the inside to use.
Any suggestions on who sell a quality replacement?
 

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With that much documented history you need to make an album to pass on to your kids with the tractor.

Oh, yeah we'll let you clean the dirt off if you must. :D

For the fuel tank check with our sponsors or of course Just8N's.
 
That is really nice looking--and the history? WOW!

Keep us informed...

glenn
 
Lucky man to have such a nice Ford tractor with family history. It should bring back good memories as you fix it up.
If the gas tank doesn't have leaks, you could try cleaning it internally. I have done a few small gas tanks and they came out sufficiently clean to use.
1. With the tank off the tractor dump in a couple of pounds of old wood screws (or sharp edged gravel, etc.) and shake them around thoroughly in all directions to remove loose flakes of rust. Dump them out and blow the dust out of the tank with compressed air or a vacuum cleaner hose on exhaust.
2. Use electrolysis to remove remaining rust. Do this step outdoors due to combustible outgassing. http://www.myfordtractors.com/electrolysis.shtml There are also lots of videos on YouTube about rust removal in gas tanks using electrolysis. When electrolysis is complete, empty the tank (saving the electrolysis solution in case you need to go another round of electrolysis), flush the tank with clean water and immediately dry it with compressed air or a vacuum exhaust and close the cap since new rust will start quickly. At this point I am usually finished.
3. Optionally coat the inside with something like Red Kote or Por 15.
A local radiator shop may also clean and coat gas tanks for less than the cost of a new tank.
 
To keep it from rusting you could put a coat of clear coat on the tractor....

If the gas tank does not have holes in it then I would dump battery acid in it and shake it around... Then rince and then put a box of baking soda and a gal of water... Shake it around again... rince again... It will look like new inside...
Acid out of an old battery will work fine....
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Here's the family tractor from my wife's side.
1953 600 Golden Jubilee if my memory serves me.
I've never really paid a lot of attention to it.

The father-in-law still mows with it frequently, but it needs some TLC.
 

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Discussion starter · #18 ·
She peels 5-6 oranges and soaks the peels in a quart of vinegar for about a month.
It makes a really strong citric acid.
I would guess any full strength citric cleaner would do the same.
Try using a toothbrush sized wire brush on it too.
 
1953 600 Golden Jubilee if my memory serves me.
The NAA was made in 1953 and 1954. The year 1953 was the 50th anniversary of the Ford Motor Company, so they stuck a "Golden Jubilee" badge on the nose for that one year only, so the '53 NAA was also referred to as the Golden Jubilee.

The 600 series was made after the NAA, from 1955-1957, so there is no such thing as a 600 Golden Jubilee.

She peels 5-6 oranges and soaks the peels in a quart of vinegar for about a month.
It makes a really strong citric acid.
I would guess any full strength citric cleaner would do the same.
Try using a toothbrush sized wire brush on it too.
Make sure that you rinse that stuff off real good after you get things as clean as you want. If you don't the acid will continue to eat into the metal and the numbers could be damaged to where they might never be readable again. The '01 series Fords with diesel engines had the batteries right above the spot where the model number and serial number were stamped, and many of them are no longer readable due to battery acid leaking onto that area over the years.
 
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