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inspectorudy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I bought an old 110 today and brought it home. I have read the rebuild here on this forum and hope to be able to use some of the knowledge that is available. I'll have pictures of it tomorrow and will be asking questions from you guys about where to start the project. It won't be a ground up restoration but a mechanical and repaint type job.
 
great machines, I'm a big fan of the square fenders,
in the process of restoring my 1968 side tag but not to be 100% original
but couldn't do it without the service manual that i downloaded
still I'm going thru some blood, a lot of sweat and few tears(busted flywheel)
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Can you give me the link to the download manual? I got the fender off today and all of the engine cover. Not too bad with very little rust. I paid $200 for it and had to buy a new battery. But the lift works and the engine turns over so I am feeling good so far. Man these early machines had some real Rube Goldberg parts in them! They were not built for easy maintenance or ease of service. I don't want to even think about having to replace the rear drive belt! The deck is in good shape but the PO left the deck covers on and we all know what was waiting for me when I removed them. Imagine going for a year without brushing your teeth!:sidelaugh
 
Can you give me the link to the download manual? I got the fender off today and all of the engine cover. Not too bad with very little rust. I paid $200 for it and had to buy a new battery. But the lift works and the engine turns over so I am feeling good so far. Man these early machines had some real Rube Goldberg parts in them! They were not built for easy maintenance or ease of service. I don't want to even think about having to replace the rear drive belt! The deck is in good shape but the PO left the deck covers on and we all know what was waiting for me when I removed them. Imagine going for a year without brushing your teeth!:sidelaugh
did you get a SF or RF tractor?
if it's a SF just Google SM2088 and you will find it
you will need to have adobe reader to read that manual
have fun:goodl:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
It turns out that my model is a 110 with the 10 hp motor and the electric lift. I downloaded the service manual and ordered an operator's manual too. Man did they over engineer these old JD's. Everything is so heavy and thick. I found just a small amount of rust under the fender pan and the rest of the tractor is in decent shape. The lift works and the engine turns over. It has a new carb and fuel pump and now a new battery. Can anyone tell me what the electrical panel attached to the front of the battery tray is? It has about eight wires with push on round connectors and the wire color looks the same on all of them. Also, I'll need a new deck drive belt does anyone know of a good place to get one? One other thing is the deck draft plate under the front of the engine. It looks like the two pins sticking up should slide towards the center of the shaft to remove the plate but mine don't budge. Any ideas?
 
It turns out that my model is a 110 with the 10 hp motor and the electric lift. I downloaded the service manual and ordered an operator's manual too. Man did they over engineer these old JD's. Everything is so heavy and thick. I found just a small amount of rust under the fender pan and the rest of the tractor is in decent shape. The lift works and the engine turns over. It has a new carb and fuel pump and now a new battery. Can anyone tell me what the electrical panel attached to the front of the battery tray is? It has about eight wires with push on round connectors and the wire color looks the same on all of them. Also, I'll need a new deck drive belt does anyone know of a good place to get one? One other thing is the deck draft plate under the front of the engine. It looks like the two pins sticking up should slide towards the center of the shaft to remove the plate but mine don't budge. Any ideas?
My tractor is exactly the same as yours, pretty cool. :fing32: The electrical panel is for the circuit breakers, I believe. The pins on the mule drive always get rust and dirt in the pins,
WD-40 should fix it. And as I always say...

GET THE BELTS FROM JOHN DEERE!

You will get the best results in the long run, a couple more $ will replace size and wear problems that various TSC belts will cause.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I got the coil I ordered from Kirk and installed it. I cleaned the tank and carb and then filed the points clean. Put new gas in her and after the bowl filled it started right up! It had not been run in over four years! What a great feeling to bring to life an old girl that was being neglected. I'm finishing up all of the sheet metal and frame and only have the fender pan left. The 110 is a strange old machine but I have enjoyed working on it and seeing how the JD engineers solved the problems of their day. I'll shoot some pictures and post them when I am through.
 
I reiterate using genuine deere belts. will save LOTS of headaches, and will last our lifetimes.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I did buy a JD deck drive belt but the tranny belt was a fairly new JD belt. I was pretty amazed at how little I had to replace that was substantial. No mechanical parts needed to be replaced and only the seat, coil and a whole lot of SAE nuts and bolts to make it shine again. After working on so many hydros this old mechanical transmission, electric lift model looks like a toy. It does look like the pulley salesman made a lot of money off JD however.:sidelaugh
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Ok, I just got her all put back together and it looks great but the engine is making a knocking noise that goes away at higher rpm. It doesn't smoke and idles fine. The throttle response is normal so what am I looking at? The manual says to use 90+ octane fuel which I did and to make sure it isn't too lean which I did. They then mention carbon in the cylinder or piston wrist pin looseness. Is there any easy way to tell what is causing this noise? BTW, the spray on truck bedliner worked great on the bumpy foot pads.
 
I would pull the head and check for carbon. It will be hard considering the ridiculous head tin/muffler screen and the blower housing needing the motor to be raised up to be removed.
 
I have had a '74 110 10HP with electric lift for 2 or 3 years now. I love that thing. I have a couple places that I mow with it because my larger ones can't get through because of width. It is fun sometimes just to get it out and drive around or mow with it.
 
I bought an old 110 today and brought it home. I have read the rebuild here on this forum and hope to be able to use some of the knowledge that is available. I'll have pictures of it tomorrow and will be asking questions from you guys about where to start the project. It won't be a ground up restoration but a mechanical and repaint type job.
We're still waiting for pics! :wwp:
 
I agree with KWDailyD, We want pictures. I have two 112's and a 212/216. I love all of them.
 
Very nice looking machine. Is it original or has it been re-done? You did good for the money.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Yes I re-painted it and if you notice around the belt cover on the deck I used black door edge guard that comes in rolls at auto parts stores as a gasket to keep the cover from cutting into the deck. I have always wondered why JD didn't use something as a gasket in the first place. I also put it across the rear fender edge between the tail lights to keep implements from dinging the edge of the fender pan. It looks good and is a protective as well.
 
Nice job. I like it. Had one like it that was my primary mower for about 24 years. Wish i had kept it. Except mine was not electric lift.
 
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