My 318 with 54 blade pushes itself sideways while plowing snow with the blade angled. I realize I should get some tri-ribbed tires for the front but is there anything else I can do? I've got 6 suitcase weights off the back. I wondered about adding weight to the front of the tractor to see if that helped. Anybody have good luck installing their own front tires by hand, without a tire machine?
Keeping 318 from Pushing Sideways While Plowing
Natispotatis
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Joined
·
20,933 Posts
Front wheel weights and perhaps loading the front tires with liquid ballast may help a lot..
I'd be reluctant to remove weight from the rear--but if it still pushes OK with less,it is OK,and will put less stress on the axles & bearings..
I've been frustrated by my tractors wanting to either slide sideways with the blade angled,or going straight ahead when I want to take a corner,and have used the roller chain around the front tire's treads trick with some success..
Guys who race cars on ice covered lakes up here use that trick for decades,they steer like they are on rails,and chains rarely come off--they use #50 or 60 roller chain mostly,but #40 is good enough on a tractor..be aware on icy asphalt,the chain may slide easier than a tire without any though,especially if it sits too high up in the tread..
A 54" plow is nearly 5 feet wide,the smallest plow for a Jeep or pickup is a 6 footer--so you cant expect miracles,even those vehicles will get shoved sideways when pushing heavy wet snow,and they weigh 2-3 TONS..a garden tractor weighing less than 800 or so,isn't going to push that kind of snow without it wanting to slide sideways..
I mostly use my tractor plow fixed in the "straight ahead" position,seeing that angling the blade usually results in it sliding sideways..lifting the blade up a tad usually helps it to steer while cornering instead of going straight,but I usually end up backing up and making several attempts before I can make a tight turn..
I'd be reluctant to remove weight from the rear--but if it still pushes OK with less,it is OK,and will put less stress on the axles & bearings..
I've been frustrated by my tractors wanting to either slide sideways with the blade angled,or going straight ahead when I want to take a corner,and have used the roller chain around the front tire's treads trick with some success..
Guys who race cars on ice covered lakes up here use that trick for decades,they steer like they are on rails,and chains rarely come off--they use #50 or 60 roller chain mostly,but #40 is good enough on a tractor..be aware on icy asphalt,the chain may slide easier than a tire without any though,especially if it sits too high up in the tread..
A 54" plow is nearly 5 feet wide,the smallest plow for a Jeep or pickup is a 6 footer--so you cant expect miracles,even those vehicles will get shoved sideways when pushing heavy wet snow,and they weigh 2-3 TONS..a garden tractor weighing less than 800 or so,isn't going to push that kind of snow without it wanting to slide sideways..
I mostly use my tractor plow fixed in the "straight ahead" position,seeing that angling the blade usually results in it sliding sideways..lifting the blade up a tad usually helps it to steer while cornering instead of going straight,but I usually end up backing up and making several attempts before I can make a tight turn..
Joined
·
15,211 Posts
in the pics is a JD LT 155.. I made this unit.. on the front wheels I used Tri-ribs then added 35# each 6 inch cast iron wheel weights.. on the rear I used ATV tires.. at first I had Rim Guard in them.. the tires had tubes in them.. the valves leaked out of the Rim Guard due to the water based glue used to hold them together.. instead of refilling the tires again I added another 100# in the form of 2 wheel weights (from a Bolens machine) to the weight box on the rear.. it now has 240# on the weight on the box..
the diver can adjust the plow angle from the seat..
the rear tires do not spin.. the front doesn't steer it's self when the blade is at an angle..
the diver can adjust the plow angle from the seat..
the rear tires do not spin.. the front doesn't steer it's self when the blade is at an angle..
Attachments
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Yeah, I try not to expect miracles. The 54 blade perfectly clears the sidewalk when angled, except when it’s sliding. And I hate changing between the blade and the thrower. Maybe a v-plow attachment would be cool.
I assume the tri rib tired will give me more bite than the V61s. Can you point me to where you bought tri ribs?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I assume the tri rib tired will give me more bite than the V61s. Can you point me to where you bought tri ribs?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
·
1,762 Posts
I would not take weight off the rear. You need the extra bite for the pushin'. I keep 6 suitcases plus 50# wheel weights on my X720 for plowing. Yes, it gets shoved sideways sometimes when angle plowing, but that happens when pushing a lot of snow. (especially the wet, heavy stuff)
So if you find yourself going sideways, do what I do. Just take smaller bites and make a few extra passes. It's just more seat-time anyhow, and most of us don't mind that a bit! Try going at it with a 1/2 a blade width instead or plow with the blade straight if you can. Always use float mode when possible.
So if you find yourself going sideways, do what I do. Just take smaller bites and make a few extra passes. It's just more seat-time anyhow, and most of us don't mind that a bit! Try going at it with a 1/2 a blade width instead or plow with the blade straight if you can. Always use float mode when possible.
Joined
·
20,933 Posts
A friend made a really nice V plow out of parts of a 275 gallon oil tank..
He put it on a old Murray riding mower a customer left at the salvage yard he worked at,he fixed the engine,a 2 cylinder opposed twin Briggs,that had a valve seat come loose--long story how he did that,irrelevant here,and to raise and lower the plow,he used a hydraulic pump/motor,switch, and the pistons off an old convertible car,which worked excellent..
Both of us could stand on the blade and it lifted us up like nothing..!
He arranged the lift mechanism so it also applied down pressure to the blade too..
He used it around the business to keep paths open,and after adding much weight & chains,it worked much better...
I was impressed ,one day we had about 18" of snow fall,and the riding mower was able to make the first pass thru deep drifts without getting hung up or needing multiple attempts to ram thru them,it just plodded along nicely..
Unfortunately,that was its best use--to plow only a path or a sidewalk--when you tried plowing a larger area,the snow spilled off the other side of the blade,even if you only used one half of the blade..you had to make a hundred passes to clear up all the spillover..but if someone wanted to just plow a walkway or sidewalk,the V plow is the way to go in my opinion..
I suppose someone could arrange a hinge in the middle of the blade like a "Boss" snowplow so it could be used as a straight blade instead of a "V" too..
He put it on a old Murray riding mower a customer left at the salvage yard he worked at,he fixed the engine,a 2 cylinder opposed twin Briggs,that had a valve seat come loose--long story how he did that,irrelevant here,and to raise and lower the plow,he used a hydraulic pump/motor,switch, and the pistons off an old convertible car,which worked excellent..
Both of us could stand on the blade and it lifted us up like nothing..!
He arranged the lift mechanism so it also applied down pressure to the blade too..
He used it around the business to keep paths open,and after adding much weight & chains,it worked much better...
I was impressed ,one day we had about 18" of snow fall,and the riding mower was able to make the first pass thru deep drifts without getting hung up or needing multiple attempts to ram thru them,it just plodded along nicely..
Unfortunately,that was its best use--to plow only a path or a sidewalk--when you tried plowing a larger area,the snow spilled off the other side of the blade,even if you only used one half of the blade..you had to make a hundred passes to clear up all the spillover..but if someone wanted to just plow a walkway or sidewalk,the V plow is the way to go in my opinion..
I suppose someone could arrange a hinge in the middle of the blade like a "Boss" snowplow so it could be used as a straight blade instead of a "V" too..
Joined
·
15,211 Posts
I got the Tri-ribs at Miller tire which is one of our vendors
Lawn/Garden Tires - Page 1 - m. e. MILLER tire
Joined
·
15,211 Posts
at the bottom of this page u can see the Tri-ribs.. they come to fit 6 & 8 inch rims & r 4 plies.. I used tubes in mine to get them mounted.. they do perform better that the multi ribs do..
Lawn/Garden Tires - Page 12 - m. e. MILLER tire
Lawn/Garden Tires - Page 12 - m. e. MILLER tire
Joined
·
5,967 Posts
Are you using a steel scraper, or rubber?
Steel will bite hard and 'steer' you, a rubber edge is much more tolerant.
Steel will bite hard and 'steer' you, a rubber edge is much more tolerant.
I have the same issue on my 425 if trying to push a lot of snow with the blade angles. My previous weight setup was stock 23" v-tread rear tires loaded with about 50 lbs. of WWF, 50 lb. wheel weights, and about 200 lbs. of weights on the back in a custom setup. I will state that on my rear weights they are fullsize tractor suitcase weights mounted sideways right up against the back of the tractor. This help avoids these rear weights causing a teeter-totter affect and taking weight off the front tires from sticking out back too far. On the stock 16" front turfs I did install a set of small front weights, guessing around 15 lbs., which do help some but still get sliding from the front. My plan this winter is to install 18" V61 5-ribs and load them with WWF which should help.
As mentioned above you can help counteract the front end sliding by raising the blade slightly. Basically you are putting the weight of the blade on the front tires and reducing the friction of the blade some. Using this method makes a big difference between either having the blade in float, and a huge difference if you any down pressure on the blade. If the snow is really deep and/or heavy I will do a pass with either the blade straight or if angled raise it up. This gets the heavy snow moved and will then go back over it with the blade in float to clean everything up. However in either case I'm hoping the V61's and loading them will help. Installing some suitcase weights on the front of the tractor would also help. I have thought about installing weights somewhere in the middle between the front and rear tires so both sets would benefit from the extra weight.
As mentioned above you can help counteract the front end sliding by raising the blade slightly. Basically you are putting the weight of the blade on the front tires and reducing the friction of the blade some. Using this method makes a big difference between either having the blade in float, and a huge difference if you any down pressure on the blade. If the snow is really deep and/or heavy I will do a pass with either the blade straight or if angled raise it up. This gets the heavy snow moved and will then go back over it with the blade in float to clean everything up. However in either case I'm hoping the V61's and loading them will help. Installing some suitcase weights on the front of the tractor would also help. I have thought about installing weights somewhere in the middle between the front and rear tires so both sets would benefit from the extra weight.
Joined
·
15,211 Posts
the Tri-ribs will only have the center rib to make contract with the ground.. this is a very narrow rib.. u will have to add weight to the front axle to help the tire.. do not put any more weight on backside of the blade.. the 'V' 61's will spread any weight to the entire width of the tire makin the contact area wider..
addin weight to the backside of the blade will make the blade dig in harder.. u may have to mount the Tri-ribs on a narrower rim.. any weight added to the rear will tend to lift the front wheels up..
the front cast weights for a 6 inch rim r hard to find.. I found mine in the western side of Omaha Neb..
Joined
·
1,689 Posts
I have been using a bike chain on the front tires for many years. I have rear wheel weights only, and never have a problem with the snow pushing the tractor sideways with my AC 710. they work great!
- They must be very tight or they will work off. I take all the air out of the tires, use a ratchet load strap to squish down the tire and then re-inflate. You can see that the tire is slightly indented in the center.
- The chains will mark up your asphalt driveway a little if it is not frozen, but no more than rear tire chains do.
- I'm not sure they would work as well if you are putting down-pressure on your blade; be sure it is in a "float" position as other responders have observed.
- They must be very tight or they will work off. I take all the air out of the tires, use a ratchet load strap to squish down the tire and then re-inflate. You can see that the tire is slightly indented in the center.
- The chains will mark up your asphalt driveway a little if it is not frozen, but no more than rear tire chains do.
- I'm not sure they would work as well if you are putting down-pressure on your blade; be sure it is in a "float" position as other responders have observed.
Attachments
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Thanks. I think I’ll get the V61s. I might try the chain on the tires first, though. I believe I have some bike chains sitting around.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I agree with Bontai Joe-
<<Are you using the "float" position for the up-down lever on your plow? If you have it locked down into a position where it is lifting the front wheels even slightly, that will push you sideways. I've plowed a lot of snow over the years with a 316, and all the above postings can come into play. Sometimes if it is getting really bad, you can try lifting the blade an inch or 2 off the ground and let it ride on the outboard skids. The kind of snow you have, the temperatures, previous condition of the road or pavement, and mixing of ice during the storm are all variables that can affect how the equipment behaves. Sometimes it is like dancing with a really big woman, you try to steer and hope for the best.>>
The plow will lift my 318's front wheels off the pavement if pushed in the down position to the max. If you have the hydraulic couplers connected right, the "float" position is when you push the down lever all the way forward. This lowers the plow gradually all the way down to the max and will lift the front end of the tractor off the ground and cause it to slide sideways. It takes a little getting used to, when to pull back on the handle before it raises tractor, causing loss of steering and slide to either side.
Hey Joe, that last line was priceless!
Tom
<<Are you using the "float" position for the up-down lever on your plow? If you have it locked down into a position where it is lifting the front wheels even slightly, that will push you sideways. I've plowed a lot of snow over the years with a 316, and all the above postings can come into play. Sometimes if it is getting really bad, you can try lifting the blade an inch or 2 off the ground and let it ride on the outboard skids. The kind of snow you have, the temperatures, previous condition of the road or pavement, and mixing of ice during the storm are all variables that can affect how the equipment behaves. Sometimes it is like dancing with a really big woman, you try to steer and hope for the best.>>
The plow will lift my 318's front wheels off the pavement if pushed in the down position to the max. If you have the hydraulic couplers connected right, the "float" position is when you push the down lever all the way forward. This lowers the plow gradually all the way down to the max and will lift the front end of the tractor off the ground and cause it to slide sideways. It takes a little getting used to, when to pull back on the handle before it raises tractor, causing loss of steering and slide to either side.
Hey Joe, that last line was priceless!
Tom
Joined
·
1,311 Posts
Blade is in float position. I’ve been using a 3” pvc pipe over the blade when I’m plowing my yard areas, too. I’ll use down pressure to scrape off hard pack snow with the blade straight.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Joined
·
18,270 Posts
Dancing with a really large woman? I speak from experience, just not my wife. The woman in question was long before my married days and alcohol may have been involved. :tango_face_devil:
Joined
·
15,698 Posts
Among other things I'm a road grader operator - a 40,000# machine. Even it gets pushed sideways when the load and blade angle get to be too much for the tires to hold against. Keep in mind that 'grader' front tires can also 'tilt' to offset the push.
Your ultimate solution is to get enough weight on the front end, along with whatever other traction means may be available (chains, etc.), to overcome the side/angle push.
On a 40k# grader, when a front blade is not mounted and being used (4,000#), we mount three 1"x36"x36" pieces of steel, welded together and built with a 'hook' to attach to the plow mount.
Weight is traction. lack of sufficient weight is sliding.
Your ultimate solution is to get enough weight on the front end, along with whatever other traction means may be available (chains, etc.), to overcome the side/angle push.
On a 40k# grader, when a front blade is not mounted and being used (4,000#), we mount three 1"x36"x36" pieces of steel, welded together and built with a 'hook' to attach to the plow mount.
Weight is traction. lack of sufficient weight is sliding.
Joined
·
15,211 Posts
I like ur last comment & that is Y I added the front weights to my machine.. they were first made for the 108 & 111 machines.. these also had the holes in the front rims.. the later ones didn't have the holes drilled.. some did have them located for drillin on the inside of the rims..
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
