First off....WELCOME TO MTF!!

There's a lot of knowledgeable tractor enthusiasts here (starting to think some live, eat, sleep, and day dream about tractors!:fing32. There should be someone along shortly to help with your questions. In the mean time I'll give you some of my thoughts...such as they are since I'm still learning new things myself!!:thThumbsU

Here's a good site for some tractor data:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/2/223-ford-8n.html

Good luck on your search for the perfect tractor for you!

:trink39:

Hi, I'm new here, and I have a few questions. I have decided I want a tractor, and I'm thinking about an 8N. They seem plentiful around here, and parts and info seem readily available. When I was young, my dad had a 9N, so that may be why I'm oriented toward Fords.

Some things I would like to do with the tractor are haul wood, cultivate corn (after I get some land cleared), brush hog, roto till, and clear snow with a blade. Also, would it be practical and safe to use an 8N to pull tree stumps?

An 8N will do all of your needs above with the exception of roto-tilling and (large tree) stump puller. As you mentioned below unless it has an independant PTO a roto-tiller is a no go. I had already purchased a used tiller for my Ferggie before finding out about that little hold up.:banghead3 I would suggest renting a large trachoe to push over large (over 6 inch diameter) trees. A trachoe can use the tree trunk as a lever and pop the root ball out of the ground if the tree is not to large. Getting short stumps out is harder since there is no leverage. If you can not afford a trachoe rental, suggest cutting tree trunk about 10-12ft above the ground so that the roots on far side of tree can be dug up / cut and the 10ft tall stump (chain wrapped around top of trunk) can be used as leverage to pull the root ball up. Used an old jeep to pull out a few 8 inch diameter trees from a friend's yard...wasn't easy!! :howdy:NOTE: If you plan to use a BushHog be sure to install an Over Run Clutch on your PTO shaft as a safety measure. The centrifugal force of the mower blades spinning will continue to drive your tractor forward through the (nonindependant) PTO shaft even if the clutch is fully depressed. The ORC will disengage the BushHog drive shaft from the PTO shaft at low RPM, allowing the blades to spin down without turning the PTO shaft and will not drive the tractor forward. Would be wise to do a search on "Over Run Clutch" for more info. (Thanks "Ken n TX" for the ORC tip!!)

There are some options/changes that I have questions about. Is the front-mounted distributor hard to get at? Should I hold out for one with the distributor on the side?

I would try for a side distro., ease of maintenance is my thinking!

I would like one with a proof meter--would an add-on tachometer be as good?

Proof meter has more information on the dial than a Tachometer alone, that being said a Tach. is better than nothing.

Also, I have read that the 8N is too fast to roto till unless it has the Sherman step-down transmission--is that correct?

As far as I know and have read you are correct. An independant PTO is needed for a roto-tiller.

As I will be using this in the woods I would like a tractor that can go fairly slowly; I probably won't have it on the road, so going faster isn't someting I need.

Throttle and gear selection will control your speed, 1st gear = 3.7 MPH, and 4th gear = 13.6 MPH.

Thanks for the help.

 

The Ford 8n is a great little tractor had one myself 1948 to be exact had the front distributor its not bad working on it unless you have to pull it then you would have to probaly remove radiator. I used mine for plowing gardens moving snow just about anything no rototilling though. The real nice thing about the 8n they are very popular and parts are available almost any place.They are easy to work on if you need to darn Iam starting to miss mine maybe I should get another. Goodluck in your search

 

Welcome to the board!!

I have a 1950 front mount distributor. I have successfully swapped a new distro without pulling the radiator, it's tight but can be done! As already stated this is a useful tractor, but you need to be fully aware of what it can and cannot do.

One thing that you should know is that if you are pulling anything with it, please do so from the lowest point possible on this tractor because they are somewhat infamous for flipping over when pulling a load from too high of a point. I attached one of these to the bottom of my tractor:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/clevis-screw-pin-3-4-in-dia--0268072

This allows me to pull from the lowest point possible, which is the clevis bracket under axle housing.

Also helps if you are mechanically inclined, and if not, you will be....

Good luck!

John

 

I'm sorry to say this 'cause I love my 2N,but I grew up on it(68years).You say you're just starting out and unless you're totally out of money'I would look for something at least 40 years newer.Increased capabilities,less wear,dealer support etc.:sorry1:

 

I think you should consider the NAA's and hundred series tractors as well. A little more money and a few more options but you cannot use a tiller, sorry, ain't gonna happen even eith a Sherman. The Sherman also slows down the PTO speed.

Now as for of pulling stumps, depends on how big and no matter how big it is still one of the MOST dangerous things you can do. Not to say it cannot but one must really have their head in the game when doing it.

Oh and:MTF_wel2:

 

Thanks for all the responses. I think maybe I better not plan on pulling very many stumps, it would be better to rent or hire a bull dozer to do the clearing I need. As far as the rototiller not working, is it because they need a live PTO? I thought it was just a matter of ground speed? Not being able to till isn't a deal breaker; I just thought it would be a way to make a little money in the spring tilling gardens. I have a walk behind tiller for my garden, and the corn I want to put in I can use a plow and so forth. As far getting something newer, that really isn't an option. I can't afford new, so I need something I can work on. This is why I have a 26 year old pickup. And is that 3.7 mph the maximum speed in first, or is that the slowest it will go without lugging and stalling? While 3.7 mph sounds slow, I would like to go even slower (like walking speed) when bringing in firewood from the woods. I thought a Sherman transmission might help with that. Thanks again.

 

And is that 3.7 mph the maximum speed in first, or is that the slowest it will go without lugging and stalling? While 3.7 mph sounds slow, I would like to go even slower (like walking speed) when bringing in firewood from the woods. I thought a Sherman transmission might help with that. Thanks again.

Here's the the link for 8N gear speeds:

http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/2/2/223-ford-8n-transmission.html

Per the info. 3.7 MPH is at 2000 RPMs. Throttling back will slow the engine speed as well as the tractor's forward momentum. You'll also have to consider the load on the tractor when adjusting throttle speed.

The link also shows the gear speeds with the Sherman trans. :thThumbsU

 

I re-read about the tiller, and I think I understand now--slowing down the speed slows the RPMs (engine and PTO together) so the tiller would be too slow. Thanks.

 

Welcome to a great place learn and hone your skills :howdy:

My 9N has a front mount distributor, loosen the generator belt, remove two bolts, and whole distributor and coil falls out on its own. front mount not too bad

I use my 9N and work her, Thats her in the pic in front of my barn. I have a large garden that I use a disc on, the ole fashon way, I got the disc for a really good price, I have a bush hog and finish mower, a dirt scoop and a blade, The winter I got the blade I had a problem getting her running. It was all my fault and it was simple and cheap to fix.

My tractor is great, I dont like working her in confined spaces. Its very difficult to get her to turn when weighted down in the rear, ie brush hog. I had the daylights scared outta me when a wild grape vine almost pinned my leg against the rear eng housing brush hogging. It gives me the heevee jiviees everytime I think about it. it could have grug me off and under the brush hog. I was going slow but it happened so fast. I managed to free my leg and get the tractor stopped but something so simple can kill or cripple you.

Its hard to beat the prices on these ole tractors, I find impliments reasonable also. And you already found a wealth of knowledge right here.

raying:I hope and pray to God that I never take anything for granted. say" that everytime you start her up and play safe and you will be alright.

 

Henry intended the N to be a plow tractor - It'll do other things but plowing is its forte. First and reverse on the 4-speeds are ridiculously fast. That's one of the reasons the Sherman auxiliary transmissions were so popular.

You can run a tiller with it but not without installing a Howard gearbox. It slows forward speed without slowing the PTO. They're very expensive and delicate. A cheaper and just as effective solution would be a turning plow and a disk. Plus you get more seat time!

I have both a front and side mount distributor - As Knap Sack stated, tuning a front mount is easily done by simply removing the whole distributor and taking it to your work bench. Tickles me when I hear of folks trying to change points with it still on the tractor :bonk:

From your list of intended uses, I think you'll be much happier with a later 5- speed, 600 series tractor. They have more horsepower, live hydraulics, power steering etc.....

The N's are very nostalgic little tractors but are simply one step up from a mule. After the prior model 4000 came to our place, the N's rarely come out of the barn and I'll likely sell them once the prices come back up.

 

Thanks for all the responses. I have decided I probably won't do any hired work with the tractor. I think a plow and disc will work for me. I would still like one with a Sherman transmission, and I might add live hydraulics. I'm still considering the 8N. They are pretty common around here, and can be had for under $2,000 in what looks lilke good shape. One of the most important things for me is to get something simple I can work on. I was wondering if there have been any tinkerers that have rigged up implements to work with a belt from the pulley? I know they sold a saw that worked off the pulley. Are there any new things, like a wood chipper or other attachments?

 

Most of the newer equipment would work right off the pto and not a belt pulley. The
1 3/8" is the standard, some of the older models like the N tractor had 1 1/8" pto shaft. a lot of them were changed out to 1 3/8" and if not you can alway buy an adapter or ORC for it.

Kirk

 

I have a '47 8N and just basic mechanical knowledge but find it easy enough to work on. I use it mainly to keep my mountain lot bush hogged. I also have a scrape blade I used to fill in old test pits and will use it for the snow when we have it. It's a great tractor. Someday when the log home is built, I will use it to plow a garden.

Red

 

The reason I ask about the PTO vs. pulley is that some newer things operate from the PTO while the tractor is not moving, like a wood chipper or post hole digger. These aren't must have items for me, I was just wondering. I saw a Ford 2000 and a 3000 that looked good, but they were priced higher than what I wanted to pay.

 

The reason I ask about the PTO vs. pulley is that some newer things operate from the PTO while the tractor is not moving, like a wood chipper or post hole digger. These aren't must have items for me, I was just wondering.

You're asking the right questions before jumping in and buying a tractor just to have a tractor.

With the 8n, you just leave the tranny in neutral with the PTO engaged.

Red

 

If you have ever used a tractor without PS, Live hydraulics, Live or independent PTO, and then used one with them, you might rethink the cost of the newer tractors.

steve

 

Homesteader,Please spend some time finding out how things work!!!For a PHD you leave it out of drive gear with PTO on.

 

If you soil is very rocky I would rethink the post hole digger. Almost every time I have used mine it gets stuck even taking small up/down bites at a time. If you have a sherman reverser trans on it it's a lot easier because you can put it in reverse and it will reverse the pto. The reverser trans was usually on forklift, loader and loader/backhoe model which would have been a later series than the N tractor.

Kirk

 

The N series will operate MOST anything that uses a PTO whether the tractor is moving or sitting still. The PTO does work with the tractor parked and the clutch oout in neutral so running a post hole digger can and has been done LOTS with the N tractors. A wood chipper, most likely but I have not heard of anyone specifically using that piece of equipment but I see no reason it should not work if it is rated for the horsepower of the N tractor.

 

Thanks again for those who replied politely. I'm sorry if I am aking stupid questions. I am trying to find out "how things work" before I just go out and buy a tractor. My only experience is watching my dad drive a 9N 35 years ago. Unfortunately, there is no "Tractors for Dummies"--I checked. Another thing I'm running into is there are a lot of tractors for sale around here that are from the 1940s and '50s. Then there are newer ones that have an asking price of over $10,000. There doesn't seem to be much in between.

 

I'm sorry if I am aking stupid questions. I am trying to find out "how things work" before I just go out and buy a tractor.

First things first - THERE ARE NOT STUPID QUESTIONS. This is important that you understand what you are looking for and what you are getting into by purchasing a tractor. ASK YOUR QUESTIONS!!!

Unfortunately, there is no "Tractors for Dummies"--I checked.

That is what we are "Dummies" that have learned by doing and are here to pass our mistakes and successses on so others may learn from them or repeat them, your choice. :biglaugh:

If you feel any response were less than polite, I'm sorry, I am sure they were not intended to be that way. Some of us can come across in ways that seem short sometimes.

 

Its been stated that you should try out newer tractors than the Ns - I bought an N 'cause I'm cheap and I like doing things myself. That being said, a week after I bought mine ($1100 with back blade) I saw 2 NAA (1956?) units at the local auction, they went for $1600 but I noticed everything was leaking on them! My little flat-head had no leaks and I'm using a dirt scoop so the fact that the PTO doesn't spin with the clutch pushed in isn't a big deal to me. Around here if you want something newer/bigger/"nicer" than a 9/2/8N you're paying at least twice as much as the $2k-3k most people want for an N with a back blade.

If I had the money I'd go for a 3000 or 5000 but they're around $5000 and better - more than I can justify for playing in the woods.

 

One more thing Homesteader, I wouldn't plan on running any attachment with a belt setup (buzz saw, chipper, etc) other than for nostalgic reasons. There's a reason new implements and tractors use the PTO (think safety).

 

I wouldn't plan on running any attachment with a belt setup (buzz saw, chipper, etc) other than for nostalgic reasons. There's a reason new implements and tractors use the PTO (think safety).

I would have to agree with you there, lots of ways to lose fingers or a hand. What kind of energy does that belt have if it snaps or comes off? Would that likely cause serious injury or does it just kind of drop off? I probably will never use one, just curious.

 

homestead, i have a 96 l2350 kubota, and in process of restoring my 2n. only things the kubota really has over the 2n is the diesel engine(25hp) compared to 22hp gasser, lower ground speed(8 speed trans), and the ability to raise implement up and down with pto not going. Kubota still kills the pto when clutch is pushed in.

I will use my 2n for mowing when its all set and done due to the fact that it doesn't have a row bar and i will be able to get under the trees better, and probably pulling a disc 2n is a little heavier(tires are filled)

 

The little N tractors a fairly versatile machines. Thats why you see so many of them still around. You just have to learn to work around their shortcomings. The lack of a live lift is acceptable for everything except for post hole diggers but Continental Belton made a digger for the N tractors that set in a framework and the Pto shaft connected to a gearbox that ran the digging and up and down motion. The driver didn't even need to be on the tractor. I used one many years back and it worked really slick. I currently have a 2N, 8N and prior 2000 and use them all regularly. The rattling/whine of the newer compact deisels seems to resonate on my nerves. The older tractors are more of a lifestyle thing. Sometimes simple is better.

 

Don't worry about the front mounted distributor. The first day I tried to use my 8N it quit on me in the middle of my pasture. I flailed around checking points, etc, with the dist in place, which is practically impossible. Finally got smart and looked in the manual. You just pop the cap, coil wire, remove two small bolts and off it comes. The dist drive is a slotted key that's wider on one end and will only mate to the dist slot wide end to wide end so it can't be re-installed 180 degrees out of time. I've had it off a couple times since and found no interference with the radiator or belt. Biggest thing in the way in my case is my "Jungle Gym" Dearborn front end loader rams and struts.