Easy fixes on both accounts. You should be able to find that magneto locally. If not, shoot me a PM. I have some used ones. The best thing to do with the exhaust is to insert your stub pipe and tighten it as tight as you can get it, then weld 2 washers on the stub pipe where they will line up with the 2 bolt holes in the head. Make sure to keep all of the bolts tight on the front end where the muffler hanger bolts onto the frame. These bolts also hold the front end onto the tubes. If they get loose and you run it that way for a while, you will have trouble that will be hard to reverse.

 

Thanks ratboy! This machine is in nice shape,how old is it? My neighbors dad was gonna scrap it!?! Art was like,no way pops and took it home. Glad he did, I might try to get it from him later! The flywheel is stuck right now, trying to pull it easy so not to damage it. We have a friend that has alot of mower stuff on hand, try to get magneto. Thanks for the tip on exhaust, Art has welder, so let him fix the exhaust! I'll print out your directions for him! Thanks!!

 

Looks to be 1977. The exhaust is original. I use mine as a weekly mower and it does a great job. The clutch system is a little different but it does what it's supposed to do.

 

Thanks bigdaddydon! I never saw a machine like this one. Really want to get it running for Art. Gonna work on it today. I am on vacation and it is raining! No biggie!

 

DANG...that G10 looks to be in great shape!

The G10 was made from 1973-1977. The '73-75 had a TEC HH-100, and the '76-'77 had a Briggs 10 Horse.

That data tag would give the model number as 1055. The first two digits of the serial number would be the production run. 01nnnnn would be a 73. It gets tricky with the 74 & 75 since they were both 02nnnnn. The '76 & '77 were 03nnnnn, and 04nnnnn.

I'm assuming that you have the freewheeling pin pulled as you didn't say anything about it being hard to push or the transmission being 'locked up'. If it is pulled, you will need to push it back in once you get it running, or the tractor won't move when it's running and in gear.

That is the stock muffler.

 

Hi,Oldbuzzard, Wow,it is almost as old as I am (41 ) ! Freewheeling pin?? Um didin't even know about it, was hard to push,thought it was from sitting.Where is it located? This machine has briggs engine, so must be '76-77 then! Wow, gonna tell Art I want it if he sells it!

 

The bolens gear driven tube frames used a worm gear to drive the transmission, so they won't move even if the trans is in neutral. That makes some folks think that they have a trans problem when they can't push them.

The freewheeling pin is on the right rear wheel.

They can VERY HARD to move/remove if they haven't been moved for a long time.

With my old 800, and recently bought G11, I had to resort to a bit of 'force'. I used PBblaster, and let it work of a week or so, spraying it every day. Even then I ended up having to remove the wheel, and used a large bolt, to drive it out from the outside. Just be careful doing that if necessary. You don't want to break the cast iron housing, or 'mushroom' the pin.. Grease it before you put it back in.

Here's a pic of the freewheeling pin.

 

Your G10 looks to be in awesome shape and def worth getting going again. You have the original Bolens hush tone exhaust which is nice to have. The guys gave you great info on getting it up and running. Feel free to ask away someone will help you.

 

Hi guys! ed-nh,it is my neighbors tractor.We am helping him! It is running like a top! Tried to mow,stupid mice ate the deck belt! Oldbuzzard,thanks! I thought that was for locking rear end!? I waxed it and now gonna get belt!

 

The G9, 10, and 11 were different from most of the other tube frames.

They don't have the controlled differential, and they use a belt tightening system instead of a clutch to drive the transmission.

They do have a hi/lo setup, but you have to move the belt physically from one set of pulleys to the other. The other tube frames of that time had the hi/lo built into the transmission.

 

then you got the flywheel off? i think that engine has a tapered shaft end- you may have to put the smoke wrench to it- and rap the crank with a rawhide or lead hammer- or just have someone hold a block on the threads- nice looking machine though

 

Actually ,no couldn't get it off. I repaired the wire for the plug with solder and shrink tubing. It worked great . We also got muffler to stay on with a little work. The owner will weld it later on.

 

Hi guys it runs and mows like a champ! We returned it to my happy Neighbor! Gave it a coat of wax and everything is good!

 

Great news glad to hear all is well!

 

Thanks ed-nh! My neighbor took it around his yard and left it only a little mowed? I would have finished it just to play with the old girl!

 

Well my neighbor used it to mow. Ran great,then he tried to mow hay and burned deck belt! ARGH! Told him we would help him. Oh well, got belt from friend, might have been old?

 

Well the belt was probably very old and worn. Tractor Supply would be a good place to look for one. I know on my 1556 42" deck the belt is 1/2" x 114" and you want the 4L series. TSC sells the blue kevlar ones which are made for this application but they only go up to 107" in the store near me. I've been told they can order any length though. Get the model # off of his deck and we should be able to find out the length of the belt it needs.

 

I have been having good luck finding most Bolens replacement parts from this seller on ebay, He seems helpful and even has the hard to find 42.5'' pto belts!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Bolens-Troy...e-belt-1185651-118-5651-/120916514334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c272f961e

 

Thanks guys! I will ask my neighbor what he is doing tomorrow. I'm going to pick up a Bolens ST 125 suburban from a guy tomorrow. I'm trading a Troy-bilt chipper for it!
Looks like a good one too!

 

hi guys, great looking tractor!, i recently aquired a 1050 husky tubeframe, it is complete except for the carberator cover and linkages!, anyone know where i could find these parts and a carberator rebuild kit!

 

Check with Jestin at www.tubeframes.com

I know that he has carb rebuild kits for the tube frame Bolens. He may have the other parts you need as well.

 

My neighbor told me the belt was fine, must have been pushed too hard and slipped?? He is very happy with it! Thank God!

 

I have not heard of a belt slipping unless it was old and worn. Perhaps the tensioner spring in the deck is weak or an alignment problem.

 

Hi ed-nh,you might be right. It sat for so long,maybe he pushed it to slip the tention? I am just glad it still works! We have no grass to cut anyway! It is all burnt from drought. Got good rain yesterday,but temps are still in '90s.
Take care!

 

Nice work Eric,..

kubotakid USA

 

Thank you sir! My dad is very good at working on things,I had a great teacher! I wind up being a good gopher most of the time

 

I would never...never weld the muffler on... Good way to mess up the block forever.
You can but a pipe flange the has pipe threads on it and use the two bolt holes to bolt the pipe flange to the block.

 

I totally agree, not my machine though! It is back in the care of my neighbor Art. I will mention that your idea is the right way! Knowing Art, he not do anything,and I will get the machine in a few years!

 

Like the idea of the pipe flange, but I didn't think he was referring to welding the muffler to the block, just using the stub pipe to reference where the washers should be situated and then welded to the stub. That would be creating a a flange that would screw into the block and be locked down by bolts. Muffler pipe would hook to stub.