do you have a voltmeter? have someone attempt to start it and check voltage from the battery to the solenoid, and from again at the lug on the starter. it should be the same level on both sides of it. double check your connections too, don't forget the grounds!

 

Did you install an OEM ignition switch with OEM wiring?

 

Load testing the battery plus cells would be on my short list too.


Solenoid

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MsvJMnpQBas

 

Battery's can take a full charge but sometimes can not put out.
This is from a crack in the lead connections inside the battery.
Be very careful with a battery like this... It can blow up...

 

Never hurts to shine up all connections--bright & tight--they say!

 

A battery that reads 12+ volts does not mean that it can turn over the engine, or even pick up the solenoid. To do this you need current. An old battery that shows 12+ volts, may have not enough current in it to light a light bulb. A brand new battery, right off the shelf, may not have enough current.
Having to jump a battery from a bigger battery to start, to me, indicates that the tractor battery does not have adequate current in it to do its job. The CCA rating (cold cranking amps) is insufficient. The problem could be compounded by poor/dirty connections, inadequate water level in the battery, cold battery, cold motor oil, improper weight oil, points/plug not set properly, eletrical parts binding, etc., etc. Could even be valve clearances that are out of whack. Could even be improper sized wire used during a re-wire.

The video of how to 'test' a solenoid is not 100% perfect. True, it does show if the solenoid picks up and completes the high current path, but it does not show how well the high current path conducts during the starting process. The go/no go test passes a very small current thru the 'high current' contacts. During a start operation, you should be drawing 100 amps or more to the starter. The 'high current' contact faces inside the solenoid may be badly pitted and corroded internally, allowing only a few amps to pass thru. I have seen highly polished high voltage/current contacts in 345kv. circuit breakers that show perfect conductivity at low voltage, but refuse to pass any current at 345kv.

 

Until you have the battery load tested to prove its good, you're just spinning your wheels.
8 penlight batteries will produce 12V, but it won't crank your engine!

 

sorry guys i actually had to go to work for a couple days(drive tractor trailers)

as for the battery its brand new it rated i think for 300cc its a lregular lawn and garden battery from advance auto

i redid all the connections, all were clean and i did solder them all together

i key switch is oem and i had another new one laying around tried it and same thing,

i think the seylnoid is bad, i have to jump it all the time now, i put a 12v tester on each prong and when i hit the key theres no current going through

my buddy is gunna stop up tomarrow and load test the battery for me, i also tryed the battery out of my truck(full size chevy) and that will start my truck but only turn the tractor really slow not enough to start

so im leaning twards the selynoid, i have one for my 91 gt 18 that i think will work?

also any suggestions on changing it without taking the motor out, i cant really get down in there and turn wrenches.

Again thanks for all the help and suggestions:thanku:

 

What happens when you turn the key? Does your solenoid just click?

 

it doesnt do nothing no clicks or anything, its kinda like its not even there

 

When you jump start from your truck do you put the cables on the battery terminals of your tractor?

Try one of your cables from the positive terminal of the tractor battery directly to the starter motor battery terminal. If that cranks normal then it sounds like your solenoid.

If you have a volt meter then put the leads on the battery terminal of the solenoid (+ lead of meter) and the negative lead of the volt meter on the starter terminal of the solenoid. Then have someone attempt to start the tractor. If there is any voltage drop across the solenoid then the internal contacts are shot and it needs a new solenoid.

 

Does this have a "conventional" automotive type SOLENOID, or is it the starter/generator kind.
I'm too ignorant on the various SS, ST's etc.

If it's the automotive type
IF it's not clicking at all when you turn the key, jumper 12V to the small terminal that has the WHITE wire.
That bypasses all the safety switches, key switch etc.
IF it clicks, but won't crank, then-
jump the 2 large studs and the solenoid is bypassed.

 

SO-LE-NOIDS are basically magnetic based relays, and you should hear a click when you hit the key.

 

ok the battery was load tested and it was fine, so i pulled the motor foreward seems to be the only way to get at the seylniod and changed it

the one that was on there was a 3 poll, i used the one i had laying around from the 91 put it all back together and it seems to work fine now, starts quick and it turns real strong now with only the battery,

it's a traditional starter and not a gen, it kinda looks like itll bolt onto my jeep lol

so far good i hope everything stays the same again thanks for all the help

 

Click, unless the 'fuse' is blown. IF, it has a fuse. But it does move, ever so slowly, so atleast some voltage is present.
My next guess would be to jumper directly to the starter with the bigger (truck) battery and see if it cranks over quickly. If it does, spring for a new solenoid. If it still spins slowly, the starter is the culprit. Could be dirty or needs brushes, or might not be tight to the engine/frame.
If it's a combo starter/solenoid, all bets are off.