The 2 spd and diff lock have never seemed to help a lot, using the lock on a muddy hill just makes two slicks on the hill from the tires spinning, the 2 spd is nice occasionally but it wouldn't make a huge difference with or without it. Just a warning, to each their own

 

Several have done it. Used a 420 transaxle. Do a search and threads will show up.:fing32:

 

Here is the guide I used to do mine, http://jd318techforum.proboards.com/thread/2, I can't comment on how well it works because I haven't finished with the restore yet. One thing I can comment on is the hole in the frame doesn't need to be as big as he made it, the only reason I can see to make it that big is to be able to remove the diff lock linkage without removing the diff. and I can't think of a situation you would need to do that

 

Do u think one can do the diff lock and not have to do the two speed. I'm happy with the speed of my tractor. Just be nice to get diff lock. I found one out of 430 with linkages. Just wondering if this will bolt in and then I can play with the rods to fit. Any help

 

The 430 diff is the same size as the 318 so it bolts right up it just has the extra linkages for the lock and the 2 speed. I didn't do it that way, I didn't see me having a need for the 2 speed either but it was there and it wasn't much more work so I figured why not, but if I remember right some people did it that way it's just a matter of putting the diff in high and leaving it that way

 

Done. Gonna buy it

 

get a 420 or 430 fender pan with the holes already stamped in it. It's a direct fit for a 318 pan.

 

Lenie is right on the fender pan. Cutting the hole/s isn't fun. I bought a couple pans and notched out to fit my 332 for that reason (no notching required on the 318). Also-not hard to swap the parts between the two diffs. I think it would be easier to use the main locking diff housing with the cover from the 318 and then drill the one hole for the locking diff linkage and install the seal. The hole is semi roughed in so the right sized drill bit and it is adapted. Either way a few seals (3 with only the diff lock) an orring between the pump/diff and a case gasket and you can swap what ever you want.

I have used my diff lock a LOT on my loader 332 and a few times to get me out of trouble on the blower. The blower if you are out on the first pass you are stuck in a wall of snow so if you aren't exactly straight backing up-you can get stuck.

 

So what I've bought is a differential with all the linkages for 399 shipped. So I'm hoping swap everything out and then I have diff lock. I'll try and find another fender pan. Might be hard to find one for me in Canada. The diff is out of a 420

 

If I had a 420/430 pan on hand I would use it however I would not go out and buy one.
The holes are easy to cut.Get a foot tread from Deere or off of ePay for a few dollars and the hole will be in the tread.Use that hole as a template and drill the hole for the traction control rod.
Then drill 2 holes side by side and then cut a straight line on top and bottom to connect the 2 holes and you have the oval for the 2 speed rod.
That is how I did mine.


AJ

 

I thought that the 318 had the split brake pedal for the poor man's version of a locking diff.

 

It does, but it still doesn't compare to the lock-button

 

It's a figure of speech, saying "it's a poor mans version". In the event you lose traction and are just spinning out, the split brake lets you apply braking force to a spinning wheel, in an effort to put power to the non-spinning wheel. It works good in my experience but I don't have a diff lock, so I can't compare the two. Just about any vehicle must have a differential, even farm tractors. Do they all have a locker? No, probably not.

 

I wish some one would sell me on the Idea either way. I have both And my personal preference is. the individual Turning brakes. Although I have had employees that did not know how to use them,, ( some times you need to just feather the peddle ) but that is no better or worse reflection on the machine.. As for Split= Hi/low The only time it helped me was Some times with the tiller. Not anything worth discussing. Just my personal experiences.. Life is full of ideas , and good

 

The best is the 420/430, they have both, and doing snow removal I would use both. the split brakes to be able to blow a curved path, and the locker for additional traction, especially backing out of a first path of clearing, when the rear tires get into the untouched snow, no matter how you do it

 

I'm not a farmer but spent a decent amount of time on the bigger tractors when younger and believe that a lot of them had both turning brakes and locking diffs. I also spent some time running construction equipment including rubber tire backhoes (basically a tractor) and they had both also. For traction purposes the locking diff is much better than turning brakes. The brakes do help but it's hard to modulate them in order to achieve the same equal power to both tires that a locking diff has. The other thing is you can engage the diff lock while still moving and maintain momentum with traction to both tires, where as with the turning brakes you basically have to wait until you are stuck with one tire spinning to figure out which pedal to push. A friend of mine will say the same thing as he has a very hilly yard that requires loaded AG tires year around along with some sort of traction assist. His previous mower had a diff lock and his current one (much bigger mower) only has turning brakes. He would much prefer to have a diff lock but the turning brakes get him out of most situations.

 

I use mine to pull a turning plow,tilling and a front Buford bucket.
When pulling a plow if the tire in the furrow starts to spin,the tire that is up on top is not making full contact with the ground.The machine is cocked at an angle.Before I had traction control using turning brakes in this application was not effective.The land side tire would not make good contact and would often spin itself when applying the brake to the furrow tire.Traction control allows both wheels to engage and pull out.
That for me is what sold me on it.I had a 430 that traction control would pull me out when spinning.When I pull with my 322 turning brakes were ineffective and stopping me from spinning.So I added traction control and no longer get stuck.
I do not spin often in either circumstance as both would pull the plow well.However there are times when you spin.


AJ