bob: we just had a posting on an earlier RER with a similar problem . You might review that post (3311sc won't drive) , as we suggested several things that might be wrong , his problem was a broken/missing "hub bolt" . If you review the last illustration I posted in answer to tomw0 ,this is the set-up on your series 16 .This series has been "simplified" in the area of the "clutch linkage" and doesn't have as many parts to wear out or fail . The fact that yours tries to pull in the forward "gears" and not at all in reverse , might mean that the problem , isn't in the "gear/chain" area , but maybe in the "yoke" area , either the "slot" in the yoke or the "yoke bushings" .

 

I reposted the illustration , of the "clutch parts" , for series 16 & 18 from that parts manual . I understand from looking at your earlier post , that you have had this machine since 2010 , if this is the first "driven disc" that you have changed , you should have no complaint , I seldom get more than 2 or 3 years on one .The first thing to check is that you got the right disc , there are 2 different set-ups for RER's yours should be the "smooth" clutch , it has a "liner" in the disc on the side nearest the hub , it's usually a green paper like strip . if you don't have that it's the wrong disc . When doing the "opposite turning check" that tests the differential gears , not the chains sprockets ,and other "reduction gears" . when turning the wheels in the same direction , the disc should turn . If that happens with no jerks or gaps , the "internals" should be intact . The "location of the "
drive disc" on the engine crankshaft is sometimes suspect , but it was probably set at the time of the Tec. engine being installed , and it usually takes some work to move that after it has run for a long period . The next suspect is usually involving the "yoke" item #15 in the illustration , the "tail" of the chaincase runs in the groove to change speed and direction ,of the driven disc .The "yoke "snaps" to hold the chaincase "tail" in the proper position the sleeve on it should turn easily , and not be "grooved , and the yoke should not be worn , nor the "nylon" bushings #16, that it pivots on . the spring#14 is what holds the "rubber" disc against the steel Drive disc , and you can see ,it has 4 "mounting holes" to adjust the tension . The clutch cable runs from the L/H side to the pedal .

 

Ok, here is a video that shows with the drive disc off. I'm sure I ordered the right one, you can see it laying on the floor in front of it. Sometimes the hub spins when i do spin the tire sometimes it looks like it must be slipping. if i turn the other back wheel it doesn't do anything.

Let me know if i need to do anther video to show you more.

 

Also, even if that hub with the 4 bolts is spinning when i rotate the right rear wheel, if i hold the bolts i can easily stop it from spinning like it is slipping very easily.

 

If you can spin both the wheels together while holding the hub , I would suspect the key between the hub and shaft , but one wheel could be just the differential working like when one wheel is in the mud , and it just spins while the other one on dry ground doesn't drive. The disc in the video has the "liner"
if it's the key it's #7 PN7010614 a "1/8 X 5/8 woodruff key" the hub #2(shown in a previous illustration) is usually ruined, and it's PN 7054243

 

what is funny is when i turn it at the bolts the wheel will turn, but if i hold it, it slips. Could be be that the key is not sheered but something in that transfer case that #2 in the diagram connects to that is slipping?

 

The only moving parts in the chaincase are the upper shaft or chain which could be worn enough to "ride off the sprocket' or the large "hex drive" sprocket . you might try just holding or moving the nut #26 ,and see if that is different , if it acts the same then , it should eliminate the hub and key , from being the problem . the key might have not sheared "cleanly" , and still tries to "drive" a little . Also try the other wheel and see if it does the same thing

 

Ok so the big nut that hold #2 on in this image scan0034.jpg Photo by gmhogan | Photobucket

If i remove that i can pull the piece off that has the 4 bolts on it and i can see if the part is sheered right there? Is that where it will be messed up at?

 

Yeah that would be it , if you can break the nut loose , the shaft turns the works , and tries to drive the tires . . The shafts that drive the hub vary over the years , some have a brake on the other end ,some look like they might have "flats" on the other end setting the brake on the later ones won't help , as the brake works on the back of the hub , and doesn't hold the shaft. I've never done it with a sheared key ,maybe some other member can help .You might pull a boot back from the chaincase , and hold the "hex tube with a wrench , but be careful It's soft and bends easily.

 

Ok, I figured out what was wrong. The pin that goes through the left rear wheel and the axle has sheered off and fell out. I was loading it up on a trailer to have someone else take it apart and find out what was wrong and I noticed that the wheel on the left rear was closer to the frame than the right rear. I looked at the left wheel and noticed that the axle was sticking out of the center of the wheel about 1/2 inch. I then examined the right wheel and saw the there was a pin with a nut going through it. The whole time the axle was actually spinning around in the center of the wheel, since the pin had broken and fell out, and I guess just the weight downward on it made it drive it forward just an inch or 2 at a time on smooth level ground, but mostly just slip. I wish I would have paid attention to how the rear wheels were attached, but I have never removed them since I have owned this mower. Lesson learned.

 

Who would have thought we would have 2 pin failures in such a short time? Well that should be a lot simpler fix. Remember the 2 sides have different pins .

 

Is that what you were talking about in your first post when you said the hub bolt? I didn't understand that you were talking about the wheel hub if that is what you were referring to. I guess I should have asked what you meant.

 

I use the term "bolt" because that is what Snapper calls it , I assume that posters use the Snapper manuals . It is technically a "taper pin" retained in the hole with a nut. the nut only serves to hold the pin in position , when installing a pin I "rap" it ,with a hammer, on the un threaded end , to "seat" it and check tightness whenever working in the area ,it doesn't need to be "super tight" as it only keeps the "pin" in position. And "Snapper Trout" recently had the same problem.

 

DC3prop can you elucidate the difference between the two side pins? Every time I have gotten one, it has been the same thing as far as I can tell. They always deform over time, and tend to wrinkle the hub and the edge of the hole in the drive axle. I have used a grinder in a drill and a file to 'dress' the holes to allow hub installation and a good pin 'fit' just because it seemed the right thing to do. Is there a better procedure? I noted that the 'pins' are not round, and the partial flat is to be parallel to the direction of motion. What were they thinking?
tom

 

tomw0: a good illustration of the "wheel bolts" . L/H 7011035 1&3/8" long and the R/H 7011013 2" long The main difference would seem to be length overall ,with the "taper" probably the same size. I'm sure the taper is not the precision kind found on flywheel / crankshaft or ,Old Ford axle /hub fits. the threads are shown 5/16x24 and the hole would be a little bigger than 5/16 , and the taper bored or Punched into the axle while hot .both the axles and the hubs would have 2 different size holes ,and would be installed to fit .The more "slack" between the hub , and the "bolt" the faster the wear