[Alien5044]

I would not trust a strap tie down going through a tube. The edges of the tube, even if chamfered, can cut the strap due to working of the load.
Most tie down rules state to use a secure 4 corner tie down, utilizing the most forward and rearward "secure" tie down spots on the load. Your loader attaching tube is almost dead center.
Also the forward loader tube is not considered part of the tractor load, but is part of the attachment. Many states require that attachments be lowered to the trailer deck, and the attachment be separately tied down even when they are attached to the machine. Also don't forget the effect of wind on hoods and other hinged parts. At 50 mph, it can do some strange things if loose items are not secured.

 

[Steve Urquell]

I remembered one other "must-do"
Take the key out of the ignition. They bounce out on the road.

 

[mrbeef]

Most manufactures include a spot to run a chain through somewhere on the front of the tractor. A cross over design on the rear of the tractor can be achieve through several means.

When I put my Deere 4066 on a trailer I use two or three chains and with ratcheting binders. The Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration has the following rules about cargo securement. Cargo Securement Rules | FMCSA

I would also highly recommend calling your state DOT if you have any questions. Ask to speak to an enforcement officer and ask them questions.

The goal of cargo securement is for the item to remain attached in the event of a wreck. This picture that circulated the internet a few years ago is a perfect example of what should happen when something is properly secured.

 

[steddy]

That’s a neat picture! Haven’t seen it before. Bummer one can’t tell how it’s tied down, but it’s definitely “reasonably secure.”

I haul a fair bit of equipment, mostly smaller tractors. I tied my SCUT down by the front and rear axles via ratchet straps a couple years ago, in pretty much the manners described above, and planned on hauling it the next morning. I checked it over before leaving, and found out one of the straps was very loose. Yup… front tire leaked overnight. Picked up a screw just before loading it, causing the machine to lower a couple inches and slacked the strap. If that happened in transit and I didn’t realize it, there would be trouble. Since then I’ve been tying loader tractors down by points close to the bucket, since those points don’t tend to be as affected by reduced tire pressure. Also, if the bucket is installed, one could point out it’s a bigger footprint on the trailer than the tires so better load distribution.

A couple weeks ago I was hauling three 1000+ lb snowblowers on a 14’ trailer, tied down via multiple ratchet straps in good condition, I think rated for 7,000 lb each (GRIP brand from Tractor Supply). Cruise set at maybe 67 on a notoriously bad stretch of highway for this phenomenon - google “resonant frequency “ if you’re unfamiliar with the concept. The trailer out of nowhere started bouncing due to the spacing of uneven recent repairs, my speed, and possibly the wheelbase of the axles. I’m pretty sure the trailer jumped completely off the road surface a couple inches a few times before I could slow down. One of the skid shoes on one of the snowblowers actually broke through the deck of my trailer. Had to stop and resecure, now that the housing itself was resting on the trailer deck.

Skidsteer manufacturers often design their machines with tiedowns on the loader arms rather than on the front of the machine’s chassis… is that legal? I did see some DOT instructions stating the bucket needs to be secured separately, since it’s an “attachment.”

 

[Alien5044]

Notice what appears to be a Kubota transporter did not use the loader tubes for tie down points.

 

[steddy]

Notice what appears to be a Kubota transporter did not use the loader tubes for tie down points.

View attachment 2538578

I don’t see that the loader or bucket is chained down at all…

 

[Bebop]

I might need a little help on this one - why is it bad to tie down via the tube between the loader arms? Provided it’s secure and the rear is tied down securely via whatever method is decided upon, why is tying the tractor down by the loader frame with the joystick not in “float”not secure enough?

I think it was in relation to a strap being put through there and the possibility of a sharp edge . Good topic lots to consider .

 

[Bebop]

It did stay on the trailer . Or did the trailer stay on it .

 

[Shawn T W.]

Good discussion!

Just for the record ... The two tractors I took screenshots of, and linked to via post #9 weigh about 2600 Lbs, plus the loader and bucket (was told about 800 Lbs or less) neither of these two tractors have "loaded" tires, how much would that add?

My trailer is rated for 7,000 Lbs total, and 5,000 Lbs of load on it, it has electric brakes, and a weight distribution hitch, truck is rated for 9,000 Lb trailer ... I do not plan to move it much after purchase, nor plan to rent equipment, or pay to move it, but may travel up to 300 miles one-way to get the right tractor, hopefully in less than two weeks, I'm just trying to be prepared now, for the trip home.

I basically was asking if the manufacturer of this size tractor had dedicated tie down hooks/eyes, as I couldn't see anything ... Too bad they don't do like they do on bigger equipment.

If I was to use the center pipe loader frame point, I'd use a chain, in addition to front and back, just wasn't sure where would be best. Initial thought was to just run one chain through the "D-Ring" on the draw bar, and hook each end on each side of the trailer, tighten with my rachet binder ... I can now see why it would be better to use two separated chains/straps, hooked into two different spots.

If you buy a new one this size from a dealer, and they deliver, how do they secure it for transport?

The FMCSA is in charge of commercial carriers, not private citizens ... Of course states can make up their own rules, or follow the feds ...

 

[Shawn T W.]

Someone mentioned securing the hood, and another said to pull the key ...

One of these tractors has a canopy ... Any special or specific attention for hauling down the road at 70 mph?

 

[Nouveau Redneck]

My BX25D is slightly smaller, around 2000 lbs. with the loader and backhoe, and the dealer used 4 ratchet straps, one around each end of each axle, with the ends of the straps going to the 4 corners of the trailer, plus a strap holding the loader bucket down and another holding the backhoe bucket down.

 

[Shawn T W.]

Looks like the ROPS bracket has a tie down on it already:

View attachment 2538508

Looking at the other side ... It looks like additional holes in a hefty bracket ... Maybe for hooking the back hoe attachment on somehow? Not sure how big the holes are ...

 

[steddy]

Someone mentioned securing the hood, and another said to pull the key ...

One of these tractors has a canopy ... Any special or specific attention for hauling down the road at 70 mph?

View attachment 2538595

Mine has a golf cart roof kind of rigged to the ROPS. When I hauled it home, I at least ran a strap over the front of the roof down to the tractor side to side to keep the front from scooping air and getting torn off.

 

[Dave55]

A single chain through a D ring on the draw bar will still let the machine slide side to side.
Tractor Time Tim talking to DOT Trooper Hoover is in Indiana, and his information is spot on for Indiana.

To save money, it is best to talk with a DOT officer in any state you plan to run in.
Yes they are all close, but close can still cost you money.
Today the rules are closer from state to state than they were back when I started hauling flatbeds in the 70's.
Total weights, axle loads, axle spacing and lengths were different in every state back then, a total nightmare trying to stay legal in some states.

If I were hauling that last tractor, there is a hole right below the arrow that is closer to the back of the metal.
I would put a D ring there on each side and run a cross chain pattern to the trailer pulling back.
But let me back up a bit, because of the roof, I would back it on the trailer. You may or may not be able to do that depending on your trailer.
I would run a strap across the back of the roof and another across the front down to the tractor, just for a little extra security, don't want that ripping off going through a windshield. I say down to the tractor since the roof and tractor should all be moving together, if they move.
On the front, there will most likely be a place you can hook a chain on the frame or a place you can put a D ring through the frame to attach a couple chains on that end, again in a cross pattern.
If I was going far, a strap or chain across the bucket never hurts.
Any attachment needs a chain or strap across it.
Backhoe or excavator, boom laid down as low as possible and a chain across the stick close to the bucket is required.

Snap binders leave a lot to be desired, they are great for removing teeth and breaking ribs or worse.
I will never forget the time I was using one binding down a load of pipe that was walking out of the bundle, so I tried to tighten the binder another notch, binder was on top of the load. That extra link, just enough to break the 3/8" chain, I hit the ground 15 feet from the trailer, thank God I was on the grass side instead of the road side.
Got rid of all my snap binders for screw binders as soon as I could after that.
I still have the binder I was trying to tighten, it hangs on the wall in my shop as a reminder.

 

[Harry Ferguson]

Do you mean make a X with the chins and then also chain the 4 corners separately then the X chins that keep the tractor from moving possibly side to side or back and forth with the 4 corners for added up and down . Which sounds good to me and I think I have seen the x on big loads moving down the interstate at high speeds ?

4 chains for 4 corners, it will look like an X when viewed from above. Sometimes it may help to cross the chains from one side of the tractor to the other side of the trailer to keep them from pressing against the tires or other obstacles.

 

[Steve Urquell]

An interesting chart on chain strengths

Chain Grades: Comparing Grade 30, Grade 43, Grade 70, Grade 80, Grade 100, and Grade 120 Chain

We turned one our most popular posts, "What are the Differences Between Grade 70 Chain, Grade 80 Chain, Grade 100 Chain, and Grade 120 Chain?", into a simple chart for a quick and easy comparison of chain grades.

blog.uscargocontrol.com

 

[Just Jeff]

I try to not comment on some of these posts, and I always read things that I disagree with, and I don't want to start anything. But I do feel that I read a lot of things that are wrong, and that some people just give bad information. I definitely agree with what @Nouveau Redneck advised you of though. On wheeled heavy equipment, I like axle straps best. If it was a car, I always recommend tire straps.

 

[Bebop]

Another thing you must be aware of a tractor can pick up the back wheels of a truck . And send it rolling .

 

[Nouveau Redneck]

Another thing you must be aware of a tractor can pick up the back wheels of a truck . And send it rolling .

Only if the tractor is not properly positioned on the trailer to get the proper tongue weight.

 

[steddy]

Only if the tractor is not properly positioned on the trailer to get the proper tongue weight.

This “usually” happens when loading, but occurrences when traveling down the road aren’t unheard of.