Many people really like the Heavy Hitch. It wasn't available when I was looking a decade ago, or at least I don't remember it from then. I would suggest getting the rear tires loaded first. I have Rim Guard in mine. Many people use windshield washer fluid and have had good luck with it.

What advice do you seek?
People here love spending other people's money ?. So yeah go get a Heavy Hitch and hundreds of pounds of weight.

I have a several hundred pound grading scraper and that is what I use as ballast whenever I am going to be lifting something heavy (think bucket full of gravel). But, when I am moving compost, I sometimes do it without anything. It would be safer to have something more in the back, but the loaded tires keep it quite stable. I have a B2620, which is the next size up from a 1025R. It has a lot more loader reach and some more capability in the other areas, including ground clearance.

The Heavy Hitch does look like a nice system, but it is pricey. Many people just use an implement for weight. The disadvantage of the implement is the increase in size of the tractor. The disadvantage of the HH, aside from price, is the storage space it takes.

 

thaaaanks, I had the tires filled before I took delivery but I need something that doesn't stick out the back too far and some more weight. I guess I need an equal amount of weight that counters the loaded loader.

 

I agree with Frogmore, load the tires first. Rimguard is basically beet juice so does no environmental damage and is good to about -35 degrees. I used WW fluid in my bar tires on my 322 and that worked well, when I put new HDAP's on I had Rimguard added. Don't forget they have a ballast box available and you can just add weight to it. Depending on what you use you can just empty it when you don't need ballast and then use the box to carry things during nicer weather.

 

I have a newly purchased john deere 1025r 100 series tractor with loader on it . I have to get some weight on the back end for stability and not sure how much.
I am thinking suitcase weights, so as not to be too low to the ground.
I see the "Heavy-Hitch" super duty/offset bracket and was thinking that might be what I need.
Basically, I am looking for some advice!
thanks in advance.

Stability for doing what? Loader work or other. I use the Heavy Hitch with 8 of the 42lb weights. When I don't need/want the weight as in spring, I can remove everything. With loaded tires the weight is always there.

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Stabilit

I have a newly purchased john deere 1025r 100 series tractor with loader on it . I have to get some weight on the back end for stability and not sure how much.
I am thinking suitcase weights, so as not to be too low to the ground.
I see the "Heavy-Hitch" super duty/offset bracket and was thinking that might be what I need.
Basically, I am looking for some advice!
thanks in advance.

I know this has been addressed, but when I was shopping for tractors and ballast I wanted all of the answers and scenarios I could get. I bought a 2025r about 2 years ago for my 5 acres at 7500ft in Colorado. I use it for some little jobs here and there, but the primary use is for mowing in the summer (60" MMM), and snow removal in the winter (currently using the 120r loader with 54" bucket). I might get a plow or snowblower at some point, but the drifts are deep and super compacted here. My neighbors said that you essentially have to use the bucket some of the time. I went through the first winter without any ballast and that wasn't great. I never felt like I would tip forward, because snow isn't that heavy compared to dirt or gravel, but I did feel very tippy from side to side, and I also felt like the tires were spinning a lot and having a hard time with traction. I'm a tractor novice, and I didn't realize how much ballast really helps. The next winter I purchased a ballast box and put 4 50lb bags of play sand in it, so maybe around 350lb including the box, give or take. The difference was very noticeable. Better traction, but still didn't feel like a tractor when removing snow. Then last summer I got the tires filled with Rim Guard. The invoice from JD says 15 gallons each tire, so that would be around 330lbs directly on the ground without stressing the axle (less for a 1025r with smaller tires). I also got 2" rear wheel spacers that were easy for me to install just before filling the tires, which still allows the Mid Mount Mower plenty of room. That was a crazy difference. The first few times I've removed snow this winter, I've felt much more stable side to side, and I can essentially use the bucket almost as a plow without losing traction through much of my 200 yard driveway. I just added 2 more 50lb bags of sand to the ballast box, and we are projected 17-30" of snow this weekend so hopefully it helps even more. Long story short, I think the ideal order of adding ballast would be: Fill the tires. Who cares if adds a little weight for mowing in the summer. The stability helps a ton, and these tractors don't weigh enough to tear up the ground much. Then, buy a ballast box (or a heavy useable implement). The ballast box is literally the cheapest form of ballast. Fill it with sand or concrete. Then buy wheel spacers. I actually installed my wheel spacers before getting the tires filled and it felt very different (in a good way). I actually don't understand why JD makes the tractors so narrow. There is plenty of space to make the 2025r 4" wider with the 60" mower, and I imagine it would be easy to make other models like the 1025 wider in a similar way. BTW, with the 2" spacers, the tractor is still slightly narrower than the 54" bucket, which is critical since I use it for snow removal. This is obviously just my experience as a new tractor owner, and I hope this helps whoever might read it . I may post it on a couple other forums with similar questions.

 

How much will the loader stay on?
Wheel weights are one option also. They definitely won't get in the way and keep the rear 3 point and hitch area free and clear. However if you are doing serious loader work I would probably still want some additional weight hanging off the back.

 

Don't forget the Ballast Box that attaches your the 3 point hitch, and works with the imatch quick coupler.

 

The Heavy Hitch would be tighter and more compact. The imatch and ballast box gets WAY out there.
As you can see I use the plastic 50# wheel weights too. 1023e

 

I use barbell weights on a steel bar through the 3 point hitch for removable weight. You can find new weights for $1/pound or less for used. I use 25 pound plates on my 318 with loader and 420 with 47 snow blower. They are closer to the tractor than the heavy hitch option. There is an advantage to getting the weight further back though. You need less weight if it is further back to get the same effect. Think of a see saw. 100 lbs 5 ft from the pivot can be balanced by 50 pounds 10 ft from the pivot on the other side.

 

I have a heavy hitch but going to try this one next. It's a $100 cheaper and has free shipping. Titan

 

thanks for all the replies. I have ordered a relatively heavy rake, trying to make double use of my dollars and will have to train myself not to get to close to things behind me. I am clearing a clear cut piece of land of stumps and limbs so i will need a rake eventually anyway.

 

Always, load tires and add wheel weights as the first course of action. That places no load on the transaxle.
Add suitcase weights as needed but don't exceed the manufacturer's recommended limit of ballast weight.