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New guy with probably dumb question about towing/trailers

8.5K views 33 replies 24 participants last post by  toomacho  
#1 ·
Hello, after getting dumped on by two feet of snow in January, I have finally convinced my wife that we need a CUT! Thank you mother nature! :drunkie:.

Anyway, I am just beginning to look around and the JD 2320 looks very suited for our needs. Its operating weight is 1660lbs. I already have a single axle 5x10 trailer with a GVWR of 2990 lbs. I don't have a truck, but my vehicle can pull 2400 lbs. I'm not that experienced towing stuff, but that seems like it should work out safely. But what about trailer brakes? Would I need them? Anything else I need to consider?
 
#2 ·
i doubt it would even fit on that trailer, i know it won't if you have any attachments on it. if you won't have to move it often, just rent a trailer for the day to get it home.

your GVWR of the trailer includes the weight of the trailer itself, as does the towing capacity. also keep in mind that towing capacity on light duty vehicles(really most any vehicle) is rated on flat ground, and can be dangerously deceiving. if you do use your truck, take it easy and slowly apply brakes to stop.

if you need to haul it often, you need to step up in size on both the trailer and the truck.
 
#3 ·
2320 wheelbase is listed as 5.25 feet. Without attachments, I would have thought it would physically fit on a 5x10. Correct me if I'm wrong. The trailer I think is around 300 - 350lbs (I'll look that up tonight to be sure), so total weight is still under the ratings of the vehicle and trailer.

I can access all my acreage with the tractor alone. I'm thinking almost all towing would be to the dealership and back for servicing.
 
#4 ·
Hello, after getting dumped on by two feet of snow in January, I have finally convinced my wife that we need a CUT! Thank you mother nature! :drunkie:.
LOL, I told my wife about the CUT after the papers were signed and it was ordered.

If you are going to use it around your own property, why not just have the dealer deliver it for you? That is what I did.
 
#5 ·
1. the trailer size may be a bit tight.
2. the trailer rating is OK, as long as you're not ferrying all options at the same time (FEL, Mowing deck, ballast box etc) - which may add up to more than 1600lbs
3. vehicle towing limit will be a problem: 2400 lbs limit basically means you will be operating it at the limit. such a small rating on the vehicle means that the vehicle itself is small/light - meaning the trailer load will be pushing your all over the road.

if you're talking short distances, slow speed, you'll be fine... but if you have to do any highway driving, or long distances - I'd be a bit concerned.

cheers!
 
#6 ·
I'm no expert by a long shot but I do know how to add, and from what I can see you right on the edge of being over your towing capacity.

The trailer may be fine but you haven't said what vehicle you will tow with (my vehicle is vague at best) if it's a car, minivan, something like that I doubt it will last long pulling that kind of a load- tractor + trailer = 2010 lbs. thats a hair over a ton so trailer brakes and controller would be a given IMO.

Also where is the axle placed on the trailer ? If it's in the middle then you may be able to get the tractor balanced properly i.e. right over the center of the axle if it's forward of the it then that will place a big load on the tongue and hitch.

Something else you haven't addressed is total vehicle weight rating - vehicle + trailer + load = T.V.W.R., You may find when it's all added up it might be over what you can pull or be right at the limit which is not a good thing 30% under the maximum is whats recommended as the high end.

Something else to consider is local and state regulations, I suggest you contact the local authorities and a few trailer dealers to see what they think that way if you are steered wrong you have recourse if things are wrong, I'd hate to see you in front of a judge trying to explain how you got your advice from an online forum instead of a knowledgeable source.

JMO Ron
 
#7 ·
One thing that has not been mentioned is the type of hitch you have on the tow vehicle. Check it closely for maximum tongue weight allowed. With as low a tow rating, which in itself can be misleading, as you are stating I'd guess the allowable hitch load will be under what you will be needing.

Simply moving the load back on the trailer to reduce hitch load is not a good idea. You should have at least 10% of the trailer loaded weight on the hitch for the trailer to tow safely. That's a general rule of thumb and seems to hold pretty true. Lesser amounts lead to unstable towing and, in cases of having to turn quickly, can result in total loss of control.

I'd suggest renting a bigger rig or having the dealer deliver as has been suggested.

Mike
 
#8 ·
I have a 2305 and it came from the dealer in a package with a few implements and a 16ft trailer. with the FEL and the PHD on back, it pretty much takes up the whole 16 ft.

After some @#$^ pulled out in front of me on the highway and then later some other @#^ pulled out of a Walmart in front of me... I took the trailer to a shop and had electric brakes installed. I'm really glad i did and I recommend it strongly. It can save your bacon, and in the end, it's cheap insurance.

ps i tow with an F150 5.something liter V8 and i wish i had a little more to be honest, but I dont tow it too often so it's fine for my current needs.
 
#9 ·
If it were me, and it fit, I would drive it home very gingerly. I've pulled boats and equipment around for 20+ years. As long as you aren't going very far and there aren't any serious hills, go 25 MPH and get it home... Don't downshift to slow down, brake pads are cheap! One thing to be very aware of is when you are loading the machine on the trailer, it will try, and just might lift up the back of the vehicle when the load is behind the axel. I rented a mini execvator and a double axel trailer last year and pulled it home with my Ford Escape. I'm rated for 3500 LBS, and I was right around that if not a hair over. It drove just fine, but loading and unloading was a little scary, espically unloading it when I was new with the machine too, like you will be with this machine. It didn't lift the rear wheels, but the shocks sure were all the way up and it was pulling awful hard on the ball. Look it over and try to anticipate whats going to happen before you panic on the ramp and end up lurching the tractor into your back seat. Also, don't underestimate the forces that will be put on everything as you drive. Even fairly easy turns cause a great deal of force to be put on the load. Make sure its tied down to prevent both forward and rear as well as side to side movement.

You know what an even better plan is! Ask a friend that has a big truck that is used to hauling heavy loads to come along with you in your car just to make sure you get it loaded and secured properly and he'll probably say "Lets just take my truck".
 
#10 ·
I think you will be dragging the bumper off the pavement.I have a small truck GMC Canyon regular cab 2.8 4cylinder. It has a towing capacity of 4000 lbs.I pull a Alluma 6310 alluminum trailer 5x10 trailer.It weighs 385 lbs and has a 2000lb axel.Its alluminum so it is a light trailer.

You mention your trailer is rated at 2990 lbs.You are guessing your trailer weighs 350lbs?What is it made of?Steel with wood plank floor?Or all alluminum including floor?If its steel im guessing it probably weighs atleast 600 lbs since it has a 2990 lb rating.

I pull my mentioned trailer and had a ATV that weighed 700lbs and had probably another 200 lbs of gear.I always felt much more then that would be starting to be unsafe if I exceeded 1000 lbs on the trailer.My trailer does not have brakes

My dad has a 5x10 steel trailer that weighs around 600 lbs and with a 3000 lb axel.He has a Kawasaki Mule 3010 Diesl that weighs around 1500 lbs.I no my truck that is rated at 4000 lbs would not pull his trailer a Mule very well.Because his 1/2 Ton Silverado with a 4.3 V6 just does OK with it.

So what im saying is no way will you be able to pull it.Hope that helps.
 
#13 ·
As far as delivery is concerned they should deliver it for free.After that you would be resposnisible for getting it to the dealer for any warranty work.But most charge $50.00 if your within a reasonable distance.Thats really not bad.As for maintaing it your self oil and trans and filter changes.Its probably easier and quicker to do that your self then haul it to them.Also there is the ready to Mow program where they come to you and do the work in there enclosed trailer.Not sure what that costs but probably about the same as taking it to them.If your close you could drive the tractor to them.I mow with a CUT 4520 and go farm to farm with it.There are about 3 miles between farms so it see a lot of road hours over the year.If all else fails tell your wife you need a truck to pull itYou never know you might just talk her into that also.:thThumbsU
 
#12 ·
How far away is it where you need to go get it, and how far away is the shop where you would bring it?
 
#14 ·
Amen to about all the above, Dan. An overloaded vehicle can get away from you mighty quick. Be safe!
 
#16 ·
I wouldnt recomend useing your trailer and vehicle to pull it your dealer should deliver it for free Ive got a couple trailers one 10 footer and one 16 and still had them deliver I didnt have help to get the mower deck on the trailer and it had been snowing and the driver was more than willing to put the mower on he was accually glad that someone was there to help him get it on he had a winch just in case tho
 
#18 ·
Hi

I also have a 2320. Your trailer and vehicle are to small to transport it safely.
You need to consider the attachments that you will use. Even a mowing deck will weigh several hundred pounds. You mentioned snow removal. I use a 54" front blade on mine with 320lbs of wheel weights, I match, ballast box (600lbs). The weight of my machine is pushing 3000 when setup for plowing snow. With the loader on in the summer the weight would be similar.
You really need a full size pickup with a 5000lb capacity trailer IMO to be safe.
I have a Subaru Forester and it is rated to tow 2200lbs but the manual says you should have trailer brakes for weights over 1000lbs.It may be similar for your vehicle. Check your manual.
When my tractor was delivered the salesman used a Dodge Dakota with about a 16ft tandem trailer. When he drove the tractor off the trailer I thought the back end of the truck was going to come off the ground. His comment was that the truck was really too small for the load.
You can easily have a serious accident with an overloaded trailer or too small a vehicle. Your insurance may not pay if you are exceeding the ratings.
You would need to move to a much smaller tractor to use your current setup. I don't move mine unless it needs to go in for service and I just pay the dealers $60 fee to pick it up and deliver it. Compared to the cost of a new vehicle it is peanuts.

Good luck on your hunt for a new tractor.
Brian



l
 
#19 ·
David,

I have a 2305, I was not able to put it on a 6' x 12' single axle trailer rated for 2990 lbs. The 2305 is too much for the trailer. I used my friend's 14' trailer single axle trailer and it was the base size trailer, neither trailer had trailer brakes. I had a Colorado with a tow rating of 4000 lbs. It could barley pull both trailers. I bought a 16' 2 axle trailer with brakes. The tractor with backhoe and loader rides nice; however, my small truck was working very hard. It stopped great with the assistance of trailer brakes. Whenever i got up too much speed the trailer would sway to the point where it almost became uncontrollable. I feel that if I had to swerve to avoid a collision, I would have crashed.

If you ever get stopped by DOT they can check trailer weight and will cite you if you are overweight, those tickets are expensive.

Once I decided to tow my tractor to some odd jobs ect, I ended up buying a Tundra with a 10,000 lbs tow rating and you dont know the trailer is even back there.

My advice is let the dealer deliver it. If you plan to trailer the tractor, sell your small trailer and get at least a 14' trailer and put brakes on it. Lastly, get a tow vehicle that can tow at least 5000lbs.
 
#21 ·
Well I think many of the posters have probably convinced you that the vehicle/trailer combo would not pull that load safely, and I'll agree with them. For me its not only the pulling, it is the stopping. Being able to safely bring the vehicle and trailer to a stop in a quick stop situation, while never planned for, is sometimes unavoidable. The vehicle/trailer/load combo does not sound good....
 
#22 ·
If you need a 2320...then you definitely need a pickup truck...and a dump trailer...and a...:sidelaugh

Welcome to the blackhole that is about to appear in your checkbook...THE TRACTOR is just the first item...:)
 
#23 ·
exacly if you need that size tractor then you need at least a 1500 series truck unless you plan on having everything delivered and the dealer picking up the tractor for service having too little truck for the job isnt fun trust me did it once a few years back and Ill never do it again I probably had 4-5k lbs between my old 4.3 v6 silverado and the trailer I was pulling probably had close to a ton in the bed its self I had to be extremely careful slowing down the trailer has hydro brakes but it still took a bit to slow it down then it took a bit to get it going again last year I was towing a towable boom lift was probably 30 ft long and I wont try and guess the weight on it but what really made it bad is it was a single axle there was no doubt it was back there and that was with my 2500HD I probably didnt go over 45mph the whole way home
 
#26 ·
Sounds like I either need to look at a smaller tractor or plan on NOT towing it with my vehicle/trailer.

Ummmmm... why would you choose a tractor size, based on the trailer you will be moving it with once every 2 years?....

you should buy the tractor you need for what you will use it for.

then look into what else you need to deal with it.

to get it home - have it delivered... if the distance is not too great, do what kbeitz suggested. borrow a truck and trailer... rent one... there are many options....
but for the love of Deere!... size your tractor for its' use... not for its' carrier!

cheers!
 
#28 ·
When I bought a compact utility last year, I let the dealer deliver it and they did it for free.
I have my own diesel truck and a 25' flatbed trailer, but I still let the dealer deliver it because: (a) it was free, (b) it was free, and (c) it was free.:trink39:
 
#29 ·
I have a 2320 and I haul it on a 16 foot double axle trailer. Can't imagine hauling it on much less unless I left all the attachments at home. I found a wide (82") landscape trailer and that's just wide enough to easily haul it with the 62 MMM installed.

Just a note on loading/unloading. I have a Dodge Dakota 6 cylinder and it pulls it but just barely. It I had to tow much, I'd need something bigger. I carry a pair of heavy duty jackstands with me and put them under the rear trailer frame when I load or unload the tractor to keep it from bouncing the truck up and down. It makes it much less exciting.
 
#30 ·
Great idea on the jack stands. Do you put them a few inches below the frame and let the trailer come down on them some? Otherwise how do you get them out once its loaded?
 
#31 ·
Another thing to remember is, trailers hold their value very well (at least around here). Price a used trailer vs. a new one, not much difference most of the time.

Maintain it, dont trash it and it will be a good investment, sell it if you need to in a couple years and not lose a lot of money.

Back in spring of 2001, I bought a new 20' tandem, its worth more now than I paid for it back then.