You can, just for testing, remove the condenser and see if you have spark. You cannot do this long term as it will burn the points up but for testing it is okay.

 

Thanks for the tip,I'll sure give it a try!! :fing32:

 

If you have a capatance meter you can actually test them for capatance but that's only half the issue. There is also a voltage rating, at voltage at which the part will not internally short out. Most simple meters don't have a way to test for this and in this application I suspect you'll never find what the voltage rating is.

Now with an ohm meter you can do some simple testing. If the cap is discharged, when you first connect the meter across the terminals you'll see a low resistance for a short time and the indicator will rise as the cap is charged via the voltage that the meter is applying to the cap. If the cap is bad it could either be shorted or open. Shorted and you'll always see low resistance, open and you always see high resistance. But there is a problem. With the very small voltage the meter is applying, it is possible the cap will look OK but when operated at the intended voltage it shorts out.

Now what does a cap do in a engine ign system. It is used to dampen the high voltage arc that would ocurr at the points when they open if no cap was present.

The easiest way to test the cap for shorts is to do as DYT has suggested.

 

As cheap as the condenser is to replace (around $3+/-) I would just get a new one.

 

Thanks Mickey for some reason I didn't realize I was dealing a simple capacitor!I'll try testing it with a regular analog meter as testing one with a digital meter just isn't the same,it works but not as easy as watching the needle swing! :fing32:
bontai Joe,thanks a bunch as I didn't figure on getting by so cheaply.I might just pick one up later,if nothing else a spare is always a good idea! :fing32:

 

When I do a tune up on any of my old Kohlers, they get treated to a new spark plug, air filter, points and condensor, and typically the the total is under $20...............


well actually it's never under $20 as I ALWAYS see other stuff at the dealer that I want. It doesn't matter what brand dealer it is, once I'm inside, I'm as bad as a woman in a shoe store :eck21: ROF :biglaugh:

 

As finicky as these old points systems are, when I come across one with ANY sort of gremlin, I replace the coil, capacitor, wire, plug, points, and run new wires for everything.

Cheap, only takes a few hours with running all the new wire, and you have a completely new system.

It's all going to need to be replaced eventually, go ahead and give it a fresh start. I recall with everything, I had under 40 bucks in the whole thing.

Tommy-

 

And it's super easy on the old K series Kohlers since you don't even have to remove the flywheel! :bannana:

It's really just a matter of basics. Are you getting 12 volts to the coil? If yes, remove the condensor and the points cover and try to start it. Are the points arcing? If not, they are probably bad. That's what I ran into at least. I could file
the points but they wouldn't stay "good" for very long...and since they are so cheap as Joe pointed out, I just replaced them and it's been jelly ever since! :thThumbsU

 

I have got 12 volts at the coil and also at the points.Should I see an arc when they open and close?I was thinking I should as DYT4000 mentioned but I believe they aren't!I'll be going back to my other house where my shop is at today so I'll double check.I'll also try the remove the condensor and check for spark at the points trick.When purchasing tune up parts does one need the serial number as my model and serial tag is gone?Thanks for all the help guys!! :thanku: :fing32:

 

Pigsitter---On Kohler engines, they ask two questions ( and I buy mine from the wholesale dist.)
1. Model #...

2. Spec #.. (which is like a seriel/Id number on a car)

Hope this helps....

 

I was afraid that would be the answer! :banghead3 Are those numbers stamped onto the engine somewhere? Or possibly p/n's on the parts themselves?There always has to be a monkey wrench in an otherwise simple job I guess!!But that always makes it that much more satisfying when the job is done!!! :fing32: I guess I can make the extra 20 mile drive and get the parts from the Deere dealer as I do have the tractor numbers but I'd rather not have the almost 50mile round trip today!!

 

O.K---game plan #2..
If your JDeere dealer has someone knowledagle in their parts, and have a little time, they should be able to look up what engine came in that specific model----you might ought to buy the parts from them the first time, but now you have your information about the engine.......

Oh-sometimes, and only sometimes, I've seen some numbers stamped on the side or bottom of flywheel cover or front of engine cover......but not likely...
:goodl:

Ding! Ding!..sometimes the light-bulb comes on!!

 

I'll ask and see if they can provide more than the model of the engine as I know what model it is!Plus I'll check the locations you mentioned,I tried the old pencil tracing trick of where the sticker was but that didn't work! Thanks glenn27 :thanku: :fing32:

 

I have got 12 volts at the coil and also at the points.Should I see an arc when they open and close?I was thinking I should as DYT4000 mentioned but I believe they aren't!

You should see 12V at the points when they are open and ZERO volts when they are closed. With the cap connected you should see a min amount of arcing at the points. If you see a lot then that is a good sign the cap isn't doing its job, as that is what it is there for.

 

You should see 12V at the points when they are open and ZERO volts when they are closed. With the cap connected you should see a min amount of arcing at the points. If you see a lot then that is a good sign the cap isn't doing its job, as that is what it is there for.

Agreed. If the points are making a contact, they will show some arc as it is supplying and breaking current to the coil via the negative side. To test the coil, you can take a screwdriver and make the connection manually at the points quickly and if the coil is good, you will see the spark plug arc. Did that make sense?

 

If your motor is out of a Deere 216, 300, or 1978 316, it's a "K-341" Kohler, and that should be enough to get you points, condensor, coil and a spark plug. Be sure to tell them it's a battery ignition (you ain't pull starting it right?)

Here is a kit offerd by Tulsa Engine Warehouse to give you an idea on price. They sell coils too, but I wasn't sure which one you needed:

http://www.smallenginebusiness.com/...ness.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?store_code=SEB&screen=PROD&product_code=7-05008

 

Ill have to look in my book again..but last I checked they only made 1 set of points for Kohler, and 1 coil for batt. ignition Kohlers, as well as 1 condensor.

I just asked for a Coil, points and condensor for a Kohler K series and my parts man knew exactly what I needed. No numbers or anything.

Then when I got my dealer book, it only listed 1 for each for Kohler.

 

If your motor is out of a Deere 216, 300, or 1978 316, it's a "K-341" Kohler, and that should be enough to get you points, condensor, coil and a spark plug. Be sure to tell them it's a battery ignition (you ain't pull starting it right?)

Here is a kit offerd by Tulsa Engine Warehouse to give you an idea on price. They sell coils too, but I wasn't sure which one you needed:

http://www.smallenginebusiness.com/...ness.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?store_code=SEB&screen=PROD&product_code=7-05008

I pull start one of my K181S motors...I just wrap a rope around the pulley and give her a yank..The original S/G broke, and a new one was just too expensive at the time, and I needed the tractor. Works great, and starts o nthe first pull every time.

 

Thanks again for all the help guys!!Yesterday was a wash as far as getting any work done and it looks like the next three will revolve around the hog barn,so as soon as I can get back in the shop I'll either have more questions or some pleasing results!!Thanks again!! :thanku: :fing32:

 

I just measured the capacitance on a brand new capacitor and an old capacitor for my K341. Both measured about .20 micro Farads. I used simple hand held multimeter. I suspect that a capacitor has a limited life if it is exposed to great swings in temperature and or freezing wet weather. Likewise I doubt a coil fails except for exposure to freezing rain or very high temperatures. One thing i would recommend is never leave your ignition on with the engine not running. You wll likely have 12v across the primary coil continuously and burn it out. Always put the keys in your pocket when you leave your machine or insure that the key is in the off position. The item that is going to wear are the points but a set of points can go through more than a few cycles of cleaning/sanding so even the life of a set of points is quite long. I do not think it is a good idea to just replace things. It is best to have the tools to test these items and that means a simple 20$ multimeter.