Try a puller, Malc.

 

Malc: you need to do a search on that subject for someone just had the same or very similar problem with the past two weeks, or at least it seemed like that. I don't recall how they ended up solving the problem.

Good Luck with it. Dick

 

What year is the L120?

Is it park outside most of the time?

Do you use it in winter?

 

No, it's parked in an enclosed shed and I use it once or twice in the winter. to mow cool season grass. (Texas) There was very little rust. Just a dusting of it when I tapped the axle with my hammer.
I tried a search but "remove rear wheels" seemed to bring up many unrelated posts.
I can't imagine that this is a rare procedure. Yes, if I had a "puller" I would use it. Never seen one though?
Thanks:thanku:

 

Auto part stores will rent them to you with a returnable deposit.

 

I can't figure out what I would attach a puller to? There are no opening in the rim.

 

What are you trying to accomplish? Tires can be changed (or tubed) with the wheel still on the tractor. Not easy, but possible. Also, nobody has mentioned PBBlaster, so I will. Spray from both sides of the axle and let it sit for a day. Spray it a few times.

 

Found this hope it helps...

Jack up the tractor wheel that is flat. Put a block of wood or jack stand or something under the axle so it doesn't fall on you. Pry the yellow plastic center cap off the center hub of the wheel. There is a clip on the axle. It is either an E-clip or a snap ring. If it is and E-clip, you can pry it off with a screwdriver. If it is a snap-ring, you will need snap-ring pliers, which is a specialty tool that you can buy at your JD dealer or at the auto parts store. Once you get the retaining clip off, the wheel should pull right off the axle, assuming it is a front wheel. The rear should pull off also, but sometimes if not lubed, the wheel will rust to the rear axle shaft and be a nightmare to remove. Also, the rear axle will have a key (a piece of square steel stock) in it. The axle shaft and wheel hub are both slotted for the keyway. The key locks the wheel to the axle and allows the axle to "drive" the wheel. Don't lose the key! Take the wheel and tire to your local JD dealer, tire shop, or wherever and have them fix it for you.

Now, my suggestion is this. If you had to ask me this question, then you shouldn't even be trying to attempt this task without someone teaching you how to do this at least once. Call your JD dealer (or lawn and garden repair shop) and have them come out and do a service call. It might cost a few bucks more, but you'll be glad you did! Depending on what is wrong with the tire that caused the leak, if the mechanic is any good at all, he may likely be able to fix it right on the tractor without removing the wheel and tire.

 

changing the wheel on the tractor is admitting defeat!!

pbblaster is important, also get a block of wood and put it against the axel end it give it a few raps, helps the pbblaster penetrate.

worked on my stx38, but it took 1/2 a day to soak in.

I also tipped the tractor on its side to let gravity help the pbblaster, got one off, then did the other! really soak it

put a slight bit of lube or antiseize on the shaft when reinstalling.





.

 

My method from a previous thread:

First of all, do not pound on the rim with a hammer. You risk breaking the clip that holds the axle shaft to the diff gear and you will half to split the tranny to repair (don't ask me how I know!).

Go to Measure the OD of the rim hub. On my JD 160, it was about 1 1/4".

Go buy a small piece of iron pipe of that nominal size (it is measured by ID).

Cut a small piece maybe 1/4 to 1/2" wide. Slip over the hub as close to the outer edge as possible and tack-weld in place.

Use a 2-jaw puller on the edge of the pipe with the forcing screw of the puller against the axle. Apply heat and pressure and hit the puller wth a hammer. You may need to re-tack the pipe from time to time, or you may need to cut a new one and start over, as it gets deformed.

I managed to get 2 stuck wheels off a JD 160 this way. Good luck

Bob Meeker

 

Those style rims are a PITA to get off..

As far as the puller goes you will have to drill a couple holes in the rim to install holding bolts & washers. Then use a Harmonic style puller.. http://compare.ebay.com/like/190471340621?var=lv&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

I tried eveything mentioned but the welding but I'll bet the heating from the welding above broke it free..

This subject has come up many times over throughout the forums..

As I had the same setup on my tractor I applied many squirts of PB blaster for days and days to no avail.. I ultimately applied heat to the sleeve from the back side of the rim and let it expand and it finally came off.. Yes, it cooked the paint but I got it off and that is all I cared about at the time.. :goodl:

 

I wouldn't drill holes. You risk bending the rather thin metal of the rim. The welding heat didn't affect it. It still needed heat from a torch and plenty of hammering.

They are a rotal PITA.

Bob Meeker

 

Unfortunately the only method you can do with limited damage on the rims is heat, not with a propane torch, that's not enough heat.

You need to heat the inside part near the transaxle (protect the transaxle with constant water from a hose) and the outside too.

It will damage the paint on the rims but it's less expensive to fix afterward. :goodl:

 

I should have given the reason earlier of why I wanted to remove the wheel. Its because I want to remove the transmission for the oil change that (stladrill) describes for the tuff-torq K46 in his stickey-post. I'll also want to open up the K46 to clean both magnets & filter. I thought all of this may be a little too much with the wheels still on the axles. I guess I'll try "day 2" of PB Blaster and go from there. Thanks for everyones insight, I've got a few ideas now to work with.:thanku:

 

Unfortunally I have had the same issue. My suggestion would be to leave the rims on, and remove the transmission with them.

 

If your removing the tranny while it's out put it on a hydraulic press and press them off. when you get them off put never seize on the axles. :thThumbsU

 

I'd use PB blaster, and then leave it alone until they have to come off. My philosophy is,"If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Stuck press on rims are a prime example.

 

Thought I'd let everyone know that it ended up being the easiest chore with the wheel & tires left on the mower. As a matter of fact it was kind of nice after removing it this way to have the transaxle suspended at just the right height for draining the oil from it.:fing32:

I-kid-you-not, 1 hr. to remove, 1 1/2 to 2 hrs. to reinstall. Easiest thing I've done on that machine.

The wheels? Still rusted on and I don't care!:trink40:

See ya, and good luck!

 

Bingo! :thThumbsU

 

You should make a habit of pulling wheels off every couple of years and putting never sieze on the axles. Saves alot of frustration.

 

Not sure about Malc, but that only works if you bought the tractor new. Mine came rusted on. :dunno:

 

Don't heat axle there are seals in the hydro that will leak. Also beating on the rim will mess up your hydro. If its the tire Jack tractor up on that side let all the air out of it. Then pry the tire away from the rim then once thats done, get the tire bead over the outside of the rim. Then use a 2x4 block to hold the tire away from the rim, then feel around inside the tire with care and find what is causing the leak. Then plug that and put the tire back over the rim blow it up and I've used the can of air that has Slime in it pump it up. You should be all set after that fun time, I've used the can of air with slime and the tire never leaked.