If you have steep slopes and your lawn gets pretty wet all the time, then yes, a locking differential would be preferred. I would definitely lean toward the GTH series with the more robust transaxles. The Tuff Torq K46 transaxle in most sub- $3Kish tractors (with or without a diff lock) are not up to the longer term steep slopes, especially when wet. The transaxle is really the limiting factor, not the hp of the engine.

I would recommend the Husqvarna R322T AWD Rider, as it has AWD and a more robust drivetrain designed for steep, wet slopes, but you said you want to potentially plow a garden, and the Rider won't do that. And at $5Kish, it's significantly out of your stated price range. Here's a video of it mowing an 18-degree steep hill:

I'm sure others will be around to give their advice. Personally, given what you've written, if the R322T Rider is out and Husqvarna is the brand of choice, I'd look to the Husqvarna GT series with the G730 transaxle. And stay away from the K46 transaxles, regardless of tractor brand (Husqvarna, JD, etc.). Good luck, and welcome to the forums!!! :MTF_wel:

 

The best tractor in the Husqvarna line is the gt52xls. It may not have locking diff, but it comes with a Kawasaki engine and HD hydro gear g730 transmission. Much better powertrain than in the gt48xls.

My Cub lt1045 (lawn tractor with no locking diff) handles my pretty steep slopes fine. I would imagine the Husqvarna GT to handle them just as well if not better.

You may also want to check out the gth24k54. It's pretty much a gt52xls without the fabricated deck and cost a few hundred $$$ less.

 

Have 20hrs on mine with mixed jobs. 3400 is high, I paid 3150 at the state line and not a nickle of tax. I will try and give you a run down of my current setup and how well I feel the tractor works.

I have all hill, much of it steep. She holds her weight well, the grill guard is nice to wedge 2 45lb gym weights if you use a rear attachment. Let me give you a good idea of my hills and how well she handles them. I mow across the hill because it looks better and my past cub 1040 (NEVER BUY!!! had 56hrs and brakes vanished on me,) would lose traction every time in multiple areas. When pulling wood with the cub it had on multiple occasions slipped when dismounting. Too light and without that locking diff she would move. She got away on me with a load of mulch in a cart. Did not flip but should have. Done all the same jobs with the GT48XLS and more. Not one slip. Wow what a difference the 23 inch tires makes. When you are on really steep hills and you want to dismount your tractor to do something (dump mulch,) just lock the diffy and you are good. I have now attached a Johnny Products sleeve hitch with actuator. NICE however he uses grade 3 bolts (some of my bolts arrived with damaged threads.) Poor choice with a tractor part. Grade 8 is the only steel that should go anywhere near a tractor. I hooked up a $350 landscaping rake made by argifab and what a piece of garbage. I used it for less than 1 hr and the tine bar torqued on both sides. The tines did well however. I will be returning it to sears and will reorder however before my next use I will take it to a welder and have a few bars added to reinforce. The rake weighs 75lbs. On my hills without the 2 45lb weights on the front, tipped up, or came close to it.
I tried to get her stuck, and did. It was a ditch with an incline of at least 50 degrees. I did it to max out the machine and find out her tipping point. I needed to do this because of the big job I have planned for her. She does ok.

As far as hills, I bet I would laugh at yours. (Video above, thats a bump not a hill)
As far as the tractor,
Locking diff is nice however I wish it was a pedal. When you press the button you hear what sounds like a lever moving into position via electricity. I'm worried about this but will cross that bridge when I have to.
Engine is not the best. Cub had a Kolier and it was good. This Briggs seems like it has a fuel delivery problem. Maybe its just my hills but sometimes when the level of the tractor changes, she does not sputter but almost loses gas for a second.
After my first hr using the tractor hard I felt the transmition settle. That feeling of when a tractor needs new fluid in the tranny, you know, the pedles become tighter. So that being said, I don't plan on taking the transmition fluid more than 50hrs of hard use, 100hrs of mowing before a change.
The locking diff will affect turing radius more than you would think
Seat arm rests are too low and basiclly pointless however I use them when I have to shift my weight.
I take the deck off after every mow. Deck is easy to take off however the bracket that attaches the front of the deck to the bottom front of the tractor, this piece sucks. It works but you have to get on your back and use a racheting wrench, (No deep socket, not enough clearance.) Total time to remove deck is less than 3 min. A little less to attach as you are putting pins on not taking off.
Hood is flimsy in my opinion but find me tractor made today that has a firm hood. Good luck.
Body flexes a good bit when on the steep stuff.
I got one with the key and I would personally pass on that stupid button thing that the newest models have.
The seat sensor is a little sensitive, but keep in mind that when I mow its not, really only when I have to shift my weight a lot.
The seat is far more comfortable and better built than the cub.
Nice to have a button for your lights, cub was auto.
That deck, she is heavy and will last until Jesus comes. Honestly, I prefer the stamped decks but this thing will last forever, thats for sure.
The cut looks good but I have to level it out. Its cutting lower on one side I think. Again, this could be the hills but the cub was always even.

Bottom line. I did my research and I had my list of wants and needs. I could have gotten a Deere but they are too much. My favorite part about this tractor is the traction. Man what a difference, even without the diff lock. My biggest gripe would probably be the limp frame. It feels like the frame is just not tight enough but the hitch/rake/2 45lb weights without a doubt affect this but I did PAY for a garden tractor, and I feel like I got a lawn mower frame. I say buy but to be honest I don't think you need the Locking diff unless you PLAN on using it. That is, weight bearing activity not mowing as the 23" tires will do you well for grass, even on wet grass,(yea I tried that too.)
Good luck and ask any questions if you have any.

 

As far as hills, I bet I would laugh at yours. (Video above, thats a bump not a hill)

...

Good luck and ask any questions if you have any.

Question: What is the exact measured incline of your hill(s). That hill in the video is a bit over 18 degrees steep (~33% incline). What is the measured incline on yours (not guessing, but actual measurement)? Post a pic for comparison.

And here's a practical way to measure:

 

K66 in the gt48xls. Good transmission, but I prefer the g730.

 

Both have good points, the K66 has a higher sustained torque output rating and the G730 has the spin on filter.

 

Most granular materials will settle to a slope angle of 30 - 40*. Very few will stabilize at an angle exceeding 39*.

 

Hi guys,

Thank you for the great info; it is very appreciated.

Some of the slopes/hills on my property are slightly more steep than the ones in Sweedishrider's video; most are about the same as in the video. Glad to hear the GT does well on inclines. I am encouraged by your feedback on this machine.

I have located a used machine with only a few hours on it (used four times). I will be looking at it this weekend. From the pictures it looks like a brand new machine. The owner has to sell due to a health issue. The guy is a retired cop who sounds like a real decent guy. What should I look (listen) for when I first look at it? Remember, I am learning about riding mowers. Do you guys have any thoughts about buying used? I just found out that the warranty is not transferrable. What do you think a fair price might be? I think I can buy it for $2000. It really looks like a brand new machine.

Thanks again and I look forward to your responses.

 

So, I thought I had decided to go for the GT48XLS, only to find out that the bagging attachment/accessory is a $900 item. Husqvarna customer service seems clueless about being able to explain the differences between the bagging systems (I am not encouraged by this). What is the deal? Why does the bagging system for this mower cost $900 vs $400 for others in the line? Does it have a built-in blower or not? If so, why does it need a blower? In the one customer review on the Husqvarna website the user mentions that the bagger does not work well and receives a response for, the manufacturer saying that one needs a separate kit for it to work properly!?!?!

I welcome any thoughts/advise on this issue. Thanks in advance.

 

Others please correct me if I'm wrong, but the fabricated decks need a vacuum bagging system, which is why it's ~$900. The stamped decks do not need the vacuum assembly, and so are ~$400.

 

Also fabricated decks do not handle damp or moist grass, they get clogged up and Husqvarna is well aware of this issue just go to their site and read the posts in the "Help" section. Oh and don't bother posting a question or trying to contact Customer Support because they will not respond.

 

you can get a "Black" huske cheaper if you go to sears and get a GT6000. you get a full oil pressure motor and the HG730 trans. add weight for your hills and you are good to go. seen them on sale for like $2700 and you can get 0% on the sears card. i dont work for sears just am happy with my tractor i got from them. BTW dont hold me to this, huskyv makes the sears, dixon, and arens i have read. at least the higher end models. make sure you get Garden tractor. lawn tractor or yard tractor will not do on your hills.

 

Well, I went for the GT48XLS. It seemed like too good a deal to pass up. $2000 ($3400 new) with JD wagon thrown in. The machine has about 12 hrs of use, and the previous owner took great care of it and is going to be hiring out the mowing due to health reasons. I've used it once, only to check and make sure everything works as it should. It does.

I am concerned about the clogging issues mentioned and the need for a powered bagger. However, because of the slopes on the 2.5 acres to be mowed I decided that I had to have the locking diff, large rear wheels, and as much hp as possible. I will be learning the ins and outs of mowing with a tractor and would appreciate any further thoughts and advice re use and maintenance. The tractor came with the mulching kit installed and that is what I tested it with. The grass (a lot of clover) was damp and while it did not clog the deck, what it left on the lawn was clumps of very wet clover/grass. I guess that is to be expected. I will see how it does with dry(er) grass. I will say that it simply devoured the grass and rode very very well, and overall felt very solid. As far as the bagger issue goes, since the main concern is with leaves in the fall, I will be trying a lawn sweeper first and if that doesn't do it I will try a bagger. I am hoping that I won't need to bag regular mowing by using the mulch kit or simple side discharge.

Thoughts? Thanks.

 

sweeper is cheaper. bagger is $$. try going to different mower blades. they can make a huge difference.

 

I should have mentioned that the original stock blades were included. I will definitely try those. Please correct me if I am wrong:

If I mow more frequently mulching is more effective. I understand that it can be good for a lawn. But, leaving the clippings on the lawn has caused dead spots in the past. I will try to find a middle ground.

Thanks.

 

with mulching you have to mow much more often. otherwise the clippings are too much. and too bulky thus clumps.