This axe probably doesn't need another positive review, the web is full of them. But, I'll add mine to the tide.
First off, I've been splitting with a hardware store maul for about 30 years. Aside from a new fiberglass handle (and a rubber handle protection band) this 6 lb maul has served me well. But, I had plenty of extra wood to saw and clear from the October snow storm that took down so many of my trees, that I decided to sell an extra load and invest in one of these Fiskars Splitting Axes.
Here are the old and the new side by side:
The old maul is a brute force tool with a relatively dull splitting edge. More or less a splitting wedge with a handle. It certainly has enough weight to apply a good dose of splitting force. But, if I don't hit the round well I can get the maul stuck in the face of a tough log.
Whereas, the new Fiskars has a sharp cutting edge, and a wedge shape that is advertised to be better at splitting, while practically eliminating getting the axe stuck in the wood. My experience so far proves their claim to be accurate. The x27 has about a 4lb head. Lighter by a third than my old maul. And, much of the fiberglass handle is hollow (at least at the hand end, so the whole tool is noticably lighter.
I bought the x27, which comes with a 36" handle, and is advertised for tall people. I'm only 5'10, and do not consider myself tall, expecially around my son or son-in-law. But I read other reviews that suggest the x25 with the 28" handle felt awkwardly short. Again, with about a face cord split, I am confident I picked the right length.
Here is what Fiskars says about their x27 Splitting Axe.
I typically split Red Oak, and am fortunate to have plenty to choose from. So, I usually prefer 14"-20" diameter rounds, and I cut them between 16" -18" long, depending on customer request. Red Oak has nice straight grain, and is usually easy to split unless you get into a twisted knotty section where the main branches leave the trunk. Here is a quick shot of a typical section halved with a single stroke:
I am impressed. Here is a little self video of me splitting a half and a round to working splits. Each split is a single stroke. I just set up one of the rounds for my chopping block, not very stable. If/when I split near my shed I have that nice big block the first picture is taken on, and I can split without having my round bounce off. That often lets me split an 18" round to eigths without having to reset each time. (I know, easy to type this without showing it, but I didn't want to carry these rounds to my shed where I have no more room to stack next year's wood.
I don't split for speed, but it's nice to minimize the number of strokes. I recommend any one who is still splitting with an old maul to consider the investment in one of these lighter, more efficient splitting axes.
I'll hang on to the maul. It will still be the tool I use to drive wedges to split one of those old stumps or crooked pieces. And, if my brother or son ever show up to help split, I'm all set.
First off, I've been splitting with a hardware store maul for about 30 years. Aside from a new fiberglass handle (and a rubber handle protection band) this 6 lb maul has served me well. But, I had plenty of extra wood to saw and clear from the October snow storm that took down so many of my trees, that I decided to sell an extra load and invest in one of these Fiskars Splitting Axes.
Here are the old and the new side by side:
The old maul is a brute force tool with a relatively dull splitting edge. More or less a splitting wedge with a handle. It certainly has enough weight to apply a good dose of splitting force. But, if I don't hit the round well I can get the maul stuck in the face of a tough log.
Whereas, the new Fiskars has a sharp cutting edge, and a wedge shape that is advertised to be better at splitting, while practically eliminating getting the axe stuck in the wood. My experience so far proves their claim to be accurate. The x27 has about a 4lb head. Lighter by a third than my old maul. And, much of the fiberglass handle is hollow (at least at the hand end, so the whole tool is noticably lighter.
I bought the x27, which comes with a 36" handle, and is advertised for tall people. I'm only 5'10, and do not consider myself tall, expecially around my son or son-in-law. But I read other reviews that suggest the x25 with the 28" handle felt awkwardly short. Again, with about a face cord split, I am confident I picked the right length.
Here is what Fiskars says about their x27 Splitting Axe.
I typically split Red Oak, and am fortunate to have plenty to choose from. So, I usually prefer 14"-20" diameter rounds, and I cut them between 16" -18" long, depending on customer request. Red Oak has nice straight grain, and is usually easy to split unless you get into a twisted knotty section where the main branches leave the trunk. Here is a quick shot of a typical section halved with a single stroke:
I am impressed. Here is a little self video of me splitting a half and a round to working splits. Each split is a single stroke. I just set up one of the rounds for my chopping block, not very stable. If/when I split near my shed I have that nice big block the first picture is taken on, and I can split without having my round bounce off. That often lets me split an 18" round to eigths without having to reset each time. (I know, easy to type this without showing it, but I didn't want to carry these rounds to my shed where I have no more room to stack next year's wood.
I don't split for speed, but it's nice to minimize the number of strokes. I recommend any one who is still splitting with an old maul to consider the investment in one of these lighter, more efficient splitting axes.
I'll hang on to the maul. It will still be the tool I use to drive wedges to split one of those old stumps or crooked pieces. And, if my brother or son ever show up to help split, I'm all set.