Here is a video of the problem starting.

 

http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/Engine%20Specifications%20Chart_ms3992.pdf

 

Looks like the dreaded camshaft. If you back the engine off until you feel compression, take off the air filter, cover the intake with your hand or a rag you should be able to get it to start. Might take a few tries. I have a cam on order myself. I hate throwing away a perfectly good part in the trash. Well minus the CR. Heres a link for a new cam. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Brigg...793583-792681-791942-795102/252893829475?hash=item3ae1a59963:g:UpEAAOSw3ZRY~hiz

 

A member on another site posted this Video.

 

I wouldn't trust what was supposedly done.
I'd verify valve adjustment and get the battery load tested.

If those check out good, I'd start doing voltage drop tests to see if there's a high resistance connection in the crank circuit.
Even loose engine mounting bolts can prevent a good ground.

 

Sounds like a good plan, Bill. Dad has a load tester I can use so that will be easy. It would be nice if I didn't have to open it up.

 

Checked valve clearance and it was right in the ball park. I tightened the exhaust .001". No change in cranking.

 

Compression release works on the intake valve.

Did you ensure the piston was 1/4" ATDC?

 

If I did it correctly. I put a long screw driver in the spark plug hole and rotated clockwise until the piston dropped 1/4".

 

Anyone know how to tell if the compression release is broken before tear down? I checked valve clearance back to about 90 degrees BTDC and the clearance stayed the same beyond the 1/4" ATDC. I would think you should be able to tell if the release is bumping the lifter.

 

Here's part of Walt Connor's (Walt 2000) instructions-

"To see if the compression release is working on B&S engines 28 and 31 series OHV, remove the spark plug. Remove the valve cover, turn the engine flywheel clockwise while watching the valve action. When the Intake Valve closes, stop. Now focus very closely on the valve spring retainer of the Intake Valve, continue turning the flywheel clockwise. In about 1/4 turn, you should see the Intake Valve Retainer (and valve) make another little move towards fully closed. This indicates the Compression Release is working. IF you see no movement, try again. Still no movement, there is a problem in the Compression Release system. When the engine is cold, you can rest the side of your hand on the head and grasp the Intake Valve Spring Retainer between you thumb and index finger while turning as described and you should be able to feel the Retainer move."

 

:thanku: Bill. Real good info.

I decided to pull the top shroud and dipstick and check for parts. Stuck my finger in and felt some pieces so I got the magnet and sure enough I found pieces of the compression release. By the looks of it I better do a good inspection when its torn down. The big piece is bent with scratches and scrapes all over it.

 

A couple video's of the carnage.

 

Pulled the engine and removed the lower case and found a few more pieces. There were just a couple scrape's on the main case where it looks like a piece may have gotten between the rod and case. Nothing broken that I can see. I think I can just flush it out, replace the cam, and be good to go. raying:

 

Got the parts today.

 

What do you think of the replacement parts? Do they look any beefier, or will the compression release break again in a few seasons?

I have and identical engine with no issues other than the CR and I refuse to fix it until I know for certain that the replacement parts are stronger than original.

 

I can't see any difference.

 

Put the engine back together, installed it, and it fired right up. I forgot to take a video of the valve action so other's could see what it is suppose to look like when the CR is working correctly. :duh: