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Building a Bandsaw Mill

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Discussion starter · #101 ·
If you look back about 6 pictures you will see a black walnut tree beside my garage door above the roof of the mill. we have a lot of them in this area...
There is two walnut trees in that picture. The other one is at the left side of the building... I also see one in the 7th picture in front of the tongue of the mill.
 
Discussion starter · #102 ·
I got a question. My mill will have a 24 volts system.
This is needed to run my moving motors. I using two 12 volt battery's in series.
But I would I also like to add a 12 volt electric hydraulic system for my log loader lifter.
Will I be messing with the charging system if i tap only one battery for my 12 volts?
I cant think of a way to tap both battery's for 12 V and 24 V with out a direct short.
 
#103 ·
24 V by using two 12V batteries in series ...
+ ------- - + ------- -



I dont see why you cant just tap into the "center" positive post and ground the other wire to get 12V,(basically just use one of the 12V batteries)--you should only get 24V out of the "first" positive post to ground ,with both batteries hooked in series..

I could be wrong,so I'd try this with both batteries not hooked up to the machine !..
 
Discussion starter · #104 ·
Tractor-Holic said:
24 V by using two 12V batteries in series ...
+ ------- - + ------- -



I dont see why you cant just tap into the "center" positive post and ground the other wire to get 12V,(basically just use one of the 12V batteries)--you should only get 24V out of the "first" positive post to ground ,with both batteries hooked in series..

I could be wrong,so I'd try this with both batteries not hooked up to the machine !..
Click to expand...
I agree 100% ... But as far as I can see there is no way I can use both battery's for the 12 volt system.
For 24 volts the battery's need to be in series like you said.
But to use both battery's for the 12 volts the battery's would need to be in parallel and that would be a direct short with both at the same time (series/parallel)... The only way might be to use diodes in the circuit .
 
#106 ·
You will need to run a voltage regulator. Here is a guy who built his own with Radio Shack Parts.
Video is kinda out of focus, but its informative.
 
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#107 ·
Kbeitz said:
I got a question. My mill will have a 24 volts system.
This is needed to run my moving motors. I using two 12 volt battery's in series.
But I would I also like to add a 12 volt electric hydraulic system for my log loader lifter.
Will I be messing with the charging system if i tap only one battery for my 12 volts?
I cant think of a way to tap both battery's for 12 V and 24 V with out a direct short.
Click to expand...
From the LR4x4 forum.

Say you have 2 12V batteries in series that are 100% charged and giving 24V

If you drain both batteries to 80% charge and then recharge them, they are both at 100% again. No problems there.

If you drain one battery to 80% using a 12 volt feed the other one is still at 100%. This means you can either put up with one battery lower than the other, or try and bring it up - but as the same amount of juice is flowing through both, you are trying to make one battery 100% and the other one 120%! This results in much boiling, hydrogen and general distress on the part of the overcharged battery.

It would work if you were taking out a small amount and recharging the batteries independently on 12V chargers at regular intervals, and/or only taking a small amount out of one of them but I don't think it would work well in the long term. From what I can gather on here the boys that run 24V challenge winches mostly have 2 batteries for the 24V system and a third one for the 12V system running off two separate alternators, as you described.
Click to expand...
My thinking is that the most cost effective thing to do is get one of the 220A or so alternators from a lincoln town car. Set it up with its own battery. If the alternator is big enough to run the 12V motors you really don't need much of a battery, maybe a lawn tractor or ATV battery. Just something to keep the alternator happy.
 
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#108 ·
Yes,you cant use BOTH batteries to get 12V when wired is series,but I would think just one of the batteries would provide enough power to whatever 12V load you have..(use largest battery possible for longer reserve)..

The only alternative I can suggest is use one of those series-paralell switches mentioned in one of my other posts on this thread..that will isolate the batteries from each other and allow you to get 12 or 24V as needed..how long those relay-switches hold up I dont know,they may only be rated for intermittent duty on 24V,since they were intended to deliver 24V to a 12V starter momentarily..
 
#109 ·
chaosracing said:
You will need to run a voltage regulator. Here is a guy who built his own with Radio Shack Parts...
Click to expand...
That's only good for 1 amp. Also, with these linear regulators, you're burning ((in volts - out volts) * amperage) as heat. It's a lot of heat and would pretty quickly fry the 78XX regulator if it were used anywhere near 1A unless you employ a decently substantial heatsink.

If you drain one battery to 80% using a 12 volt feed the other one is still at 100%. This means you can either put up with one battery lower than the other, or try and bring it up - but as the same amount of juice is flowing through both, you are trying to make one battery 100% and the other one 120%! This results in much boiling, hydrogen and general distress on the part of the overcharged battery.
Click to expand...
That's an oversimplification and incorrect. In the very short term, yes, you will bring the voltage of one battery down. But with the type of setup that Kbeitz is describing, the higher voltage battery (the one not being used for 12V) during 24V discharge will discharge more quickly than the lower voltage battery. Similarly the lower voltage battery will absorb more of the charge amperage from the alternator. Given that KBeitz will be using the log lifter for ~30 seconds and cutting the entire log afterwards (20 minutes?) there will be plenty of time for these batteries to equalize.
 
#112 ·
How many watts will you need? Sort of thinking the converts are too little but what do I know.

I would try running the 12V stuff off one of the existing batteries prior to going the converter route. Maybe use a separate ground for the 12V stuff so you can move the 12V load between batteries if there are charging problems. Maybe move it daily or even weekly or maybe not at all.

Then let us know!
 
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Discussion starter · #113 ·
Need someone to double check my wireing...
The only thing I'm not sure about is if I can have live 24 volts on the output side of the DC speed control board.
The output post will be hot when I flip the 2PDT (lower switch) to bypass the speed controller for fast reverse.
I'm using the 3PDT switch so when I reverse the direction the limit switch does not stop it from moving in the other direction.
 

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#114 ·
I am not familiar with that speed control board, but I don't like feeding the 24 volt battery voltage into its output when switched to bypass the speed control. The output circuit may fry.
How about leaving the input to the board connected. Use the high/low speed switch to select the board output or the battery. This way the board output is not being driven when in high speed mode and the output is used when in low speed mode. The current draw to the speed control board should be low with its output disconnected.
 
Discussion starter · #115 · (Edited)
Dave4514 said:
I am not familiar with that speed control board, but I don't like feeding the 24 volt battery voltage into its output when switched to bypass the speed control. The output circuit may fry.
How about leaving the input to the board connected. Use the high/low speed switch to select the board output or the battery. This way the board output is not being driven when in high speed mode and the output is used when in low speed mode. The current draw to the speed control board should be low with its output disconnected.
Click to expand...

Ahh... Yea.... Like this ???
 

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#116 ·
That should work.
Maybe add a master on/off switch from the battery “+”. The switch will prevent the speed control board from loading and discharging the battery if the saw is left idle.
 
Discussion starter · #120 ·
Today I got the metal I needed to redo my log dogs.
I needed to make the shaft square instead of round.
The dogs would rotate on the round shaft and fall out.
The square shaft can't rotate.
Works much better.
 

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