Here’s the tractor.


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If you're going to get a second set of tires for snow removal get HDAP's not Ags. The HDAP's perform better since they don't have directional tread but still have aggressive tread pattern. I find Ag's won't back up well at all, first time you spin them in reverse you'll be off pushing. Also make sure you get a lot of weight in/on them. I haven't been stuck with the HDAP's.....yet!

 

Ag tires are fine for snow but chains are better,on any ice that forms as soon as you slip a tire or under the snow you need chains. If your comes off I would guess they are too small and are not ridding down on the sidewall like they should. Why I think chains are a must goes like this. Four years ago I was blading the drive(1/4 mile long) we had about 8 inches on the ground. We also had a little bit of sleet under the snow. I could not move with the blade down,I decided I would drive out in the field and attack the snow from the street side of the drifts. My tractor sat in the field (no snow at all there) for four weeks till it warmed up a little,I was stuck on the ice and there it sat. BTW this is an International 504 with a loader, rear blade, with loaded tires and wheel weights. I like chains I just do not like putting them on

 

Chain tensioners could solve your issue. Even running a bungee cord or two in a triangular pattern helps keep worn chains from slopping around.
If you want a dedicated set of winter rims, (and we fully support spending money like water around here) go with HDAP or R14 tires. And have them filled with RimGuard right off the bat.
I call all tractor snow tires ‘R14’s’, when in truth each manufacturer has it’s own terminology.
Nokian: some word about 14 letters long
Carlisle: Versa Turfs
Titan: R14T
Galaxy: Garden Pro R3+

HDAP:

Versa Turf:

 

Looking closer, I think you have enough weight on the rear end. No need for wheel weights. But, filling your rear tires with liquid ballast puts the weight precisely where you need it: where the rubber hits the road. It does not add weight (stress) to the axle or frame of your tractor, it only pushes down on the contact patch of your tire.

 

I agree that chains are a pain to install but once tight they're great. I just started my 2nd winter season with chains and come spring I'll have a set of summers to use, and the chains will stay on the winter rim/tire permanently.I use the rim weights & turf tires. One tip when installing chains is to deflate the tire first then air them up once the chains are as tight as you can make them.

 

If the tires are loaded, deflating them to install chains is not an option. The air valve is about 3" below the fluid level in tires with a 75% fill.

Yes, installing chains can be a bit of a pain. If you don't work the chains to get them as tight as possible, they're an even bigger pain. Properly tightened chains do not come off of the tire during normal operations. I have had them stay in place without further fiddling, or any kind of tensioner, for 10 years (about 1000 hours).

If you can force a finger between any cross chain and the tire tread, the chains are not tight enough.

 

I've found that a small chain load binder helps to pull the tire chain tighter if deflation isn't practical, or in my case when arthritis starts to limit the strength of one's hands.

 

I stopped using chains about 12 years ago and don't miss them. I currently run ATV tires year round on my grass cutting/snow clearing machine. No need to switch back and forth from lugs to turfs this way. No need for chains. No scratches on the driveway from the spinning chains.

 

I also just installed Swamp Fox studded ATV tires, 6 ply 26x12x12, AG tread on my 455, I have 75lb wheel weights and filled tires, this in addition to the factory cab. How I came to this was working on 2 tractors, a 1977 400 and the 1993 455. The 400 is for sale and the guy that wants it chipped me down pretty far from asking so I swapped out the new studded AG tread tires on the 400 for the older turfs with chains from the 455 (The ad that the purchase was based on was an older picture with turfs before I got new tires on it.). Before I switch I used the 400 with the AG's with about 250 lb worth of wheel weights and a big solid block of steel bolted to the trailer hitch. It pushed 3 inch and 3/4 inch crusher run piles across my cottage driveway with no effort and I could not get it stuck in mud or anything else, plowed a few paths through my property and leveled out some humps on my lawn as well, it never spun. The 455 came with turfs and chains, plus the 75 lb wheel weights and the cab. When I mounted the 47 2 stage on the front I couldn't back up the inclined driveway because every time the chain rotated to contact the ground it would slip (and leave claw marks on the driveway...). The 400 on the other hand went backwards, forwards, all over without slipping once pushing the latest wet snowfall off the driveway, I even cleared the snow off my curb for parking and flow to the sewer drain, again 2 foot piles of slush were no problem, all this was on pavement. Now I know I needed more weight on the 455 with the turf/chain set up to work better but I figured if I come to the cottage mid winter after 2 weeks of snowfall covers my bush driveway that I'd rather go with the AG tread on the ATV tires with studs to handle the deep snow. I'll have over 500 lb on the back between the filled tires, wheel weights and cab. I also have a Polaris Sportsman 500 H.O. with Mud Lites, another great AG treaded ATV tire, I have to get into some serious sticky mud before the winch comes into play. It's from these experiences that I went with an AG tread, turfs will do nothing but clog in the snow and the chains only give grip when they hit the ground, if you're blowing/plowing on a soft surface or gravel I'd suggest an AG tread, or a winch.

 

I use turfs with chains. I also feel that there is no such thing as too much weight(as long as the tractor can handle it). I use a ‘67 112 with a soft cab, filled turfs with big rig chains cut down(they weigh over 3 times more than garden tractor chains), one pair of wheel weights, and currently 2 45 pound suitcase weights(soon to be 4) when using my 36 blower.

 

yup that works! All depends on what's the work environment, I went with the AG's partially because they were self clearing though, my 455 is on bush duty. No pavement.

 

Much of the advice you are getting in this thread is from folks using blades. You are using a blower, I personally do not think you need chains. Your turfs in the picture will be just fine. I agree with those saying ag tires are not better, especially on hard packed snow or ice. I like the idea of using ATV tires as was suggested.

If your chains are coming off you don't have them installed correctly. As was mentioned let air out of the tires and get them tight and then put air back in them. Then use bungy cords to keep them tight.

 

Much of the advice you are getting in this thread is from folks using blades. You are using a blower, I personally do not think you need chains. Your turfs in the picture will be just fine. I agree with those saying ag tires are not better, especially on hard packed snow or ice. I like the idea of using ATV tires as was suggested.

Unfortunately, if snow conditions are just right, it doesn't matter if the tractor is pushing a blade, bucket, or blower, it's going to break traction. A wind compacted drift will not leave enough loose snow for a blower to keep working. It will carve its shape into the face of the drift and stop. Don't believe me? Search youtube for the "rotary plows" that are used by railways to clear mountain passes. Twenty five hundred horsepower pushed by a pair of 3500 hp, 200 ton engines that can't advance more than a few inches at a crack before backing up to attack again.

The question becomes how much traction can be applied to keep forcing the blower into the snow? There are as many answers as there are varieties of conditions. The simple answer is to load up as much ballast as can be fitted on the tractor safely and select tires that will provide the traction. For most operators, the ballast that can be applied to the tire tread./ground interface is non-variable once installed because the 3PH is utilized for carrying suitcase weights.

In the case of my GT, there is a 250 lb back blade on the 3PH that can be lowered to scrape a wider trail, or raised to increase the ballast load, as the situation warrants. The other end of the tractor has a FEL with a 54" bucket that has been swapped for a 48" blower for one winter. Because the blower was mounted on the FEL, down pressure could be applied to transfer additional weight to the rear wheels. Permanently mounted ballast on the tractor weighed 400 lb. Due to the ability to raise and lower the blower and back blade independently, the actual ballast weight applied to the rear wheels could be varied from as little as 220 lb to more than 1000 lb from the operator's station, much of it while in motion.

While there are tire chains that will work well on lugged tires, they are considerably more expensive than the ladder style of chains that work excellent on turf tires with the wide and relatively smooth tread face. Contrary to popular belief, turfs do not pack up with snow, at least in this area, especially when used in conjunction with chains.

I have the utmost respect for Lance and the experience that he has gained over the years with a number of different tire styles and tread patterns. My experience is limited to basically one tractor and one style of tire (with chains) that will plow through 20" of fresh snow with a 54" bucket while pulling a 5' back blade at the same time for 250'. Since the combination will also pull a 3 ton pickup out of a 1.5' deep, snow filled ditch and through the windrow left by the city plow while working from the polished, hard packed snow road surface, I'm quite happy.

For me, the cheap solution is to use the turfs that came with the tractor, install Rim Guard in the tires, and install 2-link tire chains. Add wheel weights and suitcase weights if that isn't enough for the operator's conditions. My 2wd GT rarely spins its tires. My heavier 4wd SCUT, also FEL and 5' back blade equipped, and with the same tires without chains, spins quire a bit more often.

I'm not saying that other combinations wont work well, only that the combination that I have experience with sets a very high standard for a GT that weighs 2250 lb without the.operator.

 

I’m in the “Second Set of Loaded HDAPS for Winter Use” camp. I’ve found them to be unstoppable when blowing. Much rather switch than mess with chains, but that’s just me.

 

I guess it all depends on your situation, and everyone’s needs are different. I personally have pavement everywhere I want to clear, so my train of thought is to get it as clean as possible and within a a day or two the sunshine will melt 95% of what’s left. Usually if it’s a storm that ends up with ice, then some traction is lost, but I’ve always been able to still clean up with my set up.

If you have a more northern facing, sloping, or shaded drive than theres more chance of ice building up..
If you have a dirt or stone driveway then you’re method and needs to get it clear are different..
If you don’t have room to store an extra set of wheels or other equipment... Etc..

We’re lucky there are so many options for equipment that everyone can find what’s best for them.

 

😁 I am kind of surprised that @Lance Skene has not contributed here.....in my opinion his is the last word in what tires to use in snow with what equipment.....even though he has only had a little more than 200 tractors to experiment with

 

Lol... I dont visit this corner of the forum very often... and besides that Im in the middle of moving right now so havent been on the pc as much.

tires for snow and ice..... I use deep lug atv tires with some added rear ballast but no chains... best tires Ive had to date are the Carlisle XTR Radials on my Columbia... no problem pushing 10"+ snow with a 54" blade.... it might spin a little when Im clearing the dugout for the kids to go skating but it will go most anywhere a set of chains can go... and without the rough ride or risking axle damage that chains cause.

 

If using the ladder style chain, make sure that the lengths of the side chains when tightened are the same. If not, they will walk off.
Also be sure that the chains fit the tires.. often the total length of the side chains are too long for the tire, and this leads to an improper fit and the need for outside tighteners that only lead to sloppy chains.. Correctly fitted to the tire then there is no need for bungee straps and spring setups to take up the slack.

 

Get yourself some John Deere rubber chains. They are great in my experience. They provide excellent traction and dont mark up your concrete/asphalt.

 

Adding ballast to the limits of the manufacturer's ratings will do the same, and result in better traction if turf tires are used.

Wide, flat rubber straps are a bit too close to drag slicks to offer better traction than turfs on frozen asphalt or hard packed snow since they jack too much of the actual tread off of the ground.

Most people don't want to go to all the trouble to ballast up with intent for various reasons, and I understand that, Been there, done that, and learned lessons in the doing.

Pay2Play, I do hope that you are paying close attention to the many good suggestions in this thread, The MI UP has never been noted for having a shortage of snow. You are about to experience something that you've never seen in Alabama.

 

Pay2Play,
I have nothing to add here as this is going to be my first winter in Upper Michigan having just moved from Alabama in September; however, I must compliment you on your garage! The tongue and groove looks great - I may copy what you have done on my forward wall... using it throughout would be grand but would exceed my budget.

 

Thanks. Lots of great suggestions here! I’m leaning toward Atv tires that I could put screw in studs if ultimately needed. My location is flat. The wood comes from The Woodworkers shop in Comins, MI. It is less expensive than you’d think. It’s easily a DIY project and is prefinished t&g on all sides. Thanks for the compliment


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I have owned my father in laws 1987 318 for a few snow seasons now. It is working well. However, the snow chains don’t stay on, etc. I have really struggled with them. I’ve researched chain options which may or may not cure my issues but have also thought of buying a second set of rims and putting ag tires on dedicated for snow removal. Please share your thoughts. I’m in mid Michigan and would need 318 10.5x12 rims if anyone has a set they’d part with. Thanks


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I have owned my father in laws 1987 318 for a few snow seasons now. It is working well. However, the snow chains don’t stay on, etc. I have really struggled with them. I’ve researched chain options which may or may not cure my issues but have also thought of buying a second set of rims and putting ag tires on dedicated for snow removal. Please share your thoughts. I’m in mid Michigan and would need 318 10.5x12 rims if anyone has a set they’d part with. Thanks


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hello i have john deere 316 with ag tires, but instead of chains i use these screw in studs that i insert into each bar on the ag tires, last winter was my first time using them they worked great. i got them on amazon there called
Kold Kutter Pro Series Snowmobile Track and ATV Tire Traction Screws 1/2" Length 0.190" Head Height KK-12250-8
they make it just like studded snow tires. i have 52 inch plow i use to plow snow.

 

I have owned my father in laws 1987 318 for a few snow seasons now. It is working well. However, the snow chains don’t stay on, etc. I have really struggled with them. I’ve researched chain options which may or may not cure my issues but have also thought of buying a second set of rims and putting ag tires on dedicated for snow removal. Please share your thoughts. I’m in mid Michigan and would need 318 10.5x12 rims if anyone has a set they’d part with. Thanks


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I don't have a small tractor like that but I can tell you how I keep chains on my backhoe/loader. Even with tensioners the tight twisting and turning necessary while pushing up/loading snow or dirt, I was constantly walking out of the chains on my turf tires. I solved the problem completely by lacing galvanized # 9 tie/brace wire (available at farm supplies and online) through the slots between the wheels and rims to the chains on front and back sides. It eliminates most all of the sideways movement of the chains. The only thing you have to be careful of is to not wipe out your valve stem. You might have to drill and chamfer a small hole in the wheel portion to prevent movement of the wire near the stem. The #9 wire is fairly expensive so you could probably use multiple strands of smaller wire on the small tractors. I do occasionally break one but a 4 ton backhoe is putting a lot more stress on it than you ever will.
Smiley

 

I don't have a small tractor like that but I can tell you how I keep chains on my backhoe/loader. Even with tensioners the tight twisting and turning necessary while pushing up/loading snow or dirt, I was constantly walking out of the chains on my turf tires. I solved the problem completely by lacing galvanized # 9 tie/brace wire (available at farm supplies and online) through the slots between the wheels and rims to the chains on front and back sides. It eliminates most all of the sideways movement of the chains. The only thing you have to be careful of is to not wipe out your valve stem. You might have to drill and chamfer a small hole in the wheel portion to prevent movement of the wire near the stem. The #9 wire is fairly expensive so you could probably use multiple strands of smaller wire on the small tractors. I do occasionally break one but a 4 ton backhoe is putting a lot more stress on it than you ever will.
Smiley

I did the wire trick last season and they still broke. It was frustrating, leading me to seek alternative tire options. Thanks


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My dad had a JD214 with front mount snowblower. We used the heavy cast iron wheel weights that bolted on thru the rim, and chains. He also had the ag style tires. It worked good, but since it was a pita, the stuff was left on all winter long and did not come off till spring. Thats fine unless you are going over frozen ground or asphault/concrete alot.

I have a Kubota B2620 with FEL and have the R4 bar tires (skid steer type) and that's it. I have a concrete weight I made up for on the 3point hitch. Only real problems I have is if I have ice, but then no tire likes ice.

With your set up now, seeing all that weight on the back, I would just get a set of chains for your current tire and make sure you have a way of tightening them. We used to use 2 bungee straps to make a star pattern. Basically made a V with each bungee and the V overlapped each other making a star on the side of the wheel. (Wish I had a picture, but that was before the days of cell phones)

Here is a product, 2 Peerless Chain Spider Bungee Truck Snow Tire Chains Adjuster Tensioner Part BL | eBay

 

I have owned my father in laws 1987 318 for a few snow seasons now. It is working well. However, the snow chains don’t stay on, etc. I have really struggled with them. I’ve researched chain options which may or may not cure my issues but have also thought of buying a second set of rims and putting ag tires on dedicated for snow removal. Please share your thoughts. I’m in mid Michigan and would need 318 10.5x12 rims if anyone has a set they’d part with. Thanks


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I let the air out of my tires put the chains on nice and tight then air them up. Also do have the correct chains and they will stretch.

 

I've got HDAP tires on a 332 with a single set of wheel weights and 6 suitcase weights calculated center of mass 17" behind the rear axle on the rear bar. I very infrequently have trouble pushing several feet of snow ahead of me on concrete/asphalt uphill with the 54" blade. No chains/studs/liquid ballast, and I weigh 120 pounds. Not sure what the chest freezer snow blower weighs, but counterweight as far back as you can on the rear is the way to go, as long as you don't overload the rear axle.