i have a factory 1 and it will lift 500 pounds i would post pics but i don't know how to and the actuator is good for 250 pounds

 

Converted mine from a manual to an eletric actuated three point.Here are some pics.I used different adjustable linkages to give it more lift.The linkages for the manual lift worked without binding but didn't give as much lift.

 

Man i love that tractor !!!

 

The amount a linear actuator will lift depends on how much you are willing to spend. A 250lb is between $125 and $150, or you can get a 1000lb for closer to $550 or $600. A lot also depends on the brand you buy.

 

Thanks for the responses to this.

I do understand that different actuators are able to lift different amounts (more force = more $$ cost).

My question about the force was, what is/was the factory actuator rated for?

I think Ray has given the answer. It was rated for 250-500lbs. Please correct me if this is wrong.

Dirt dog -- could you give dimensions on the arms you have welded to the (handle) upper crank? Did you create supports for the actuator on both sides of the pin/ram or is it only supported on one of the sides?

Sorry for the multitude of questions, but I know some of you have already done the homework. I'd rather build it once and right, if I can.

thanks

 

Thanks for the responses to this.

Dirt dog -- could you give dimensions on the arms you have welded to the (handle) upper crank? Did you create supports for the actuator on both sides of the pin/ram or is it only supported on one of the sides?

Sorry for the multitude of questions, but I know some of you have already done the homework. I'd rather build it once and right, if I can.

thanks

The electric actuated three point on mine is of a 78 GT 18(TA157BR).It does not create down force on the implements.The weight is usually enough except for the middle buster plow.I plan on adding a steel rod to weight it.

 

yes it is rated for 250 butt with the way the hitch is set up it is good for 500 i have picked up about 4oo or so and it works great

 

I have been contemplating the same thing for sometime- switching to a electric lift... Hoever, I don't have anything that heavy that I would need it, and I like the manual lifts.

 

Hey Mark, if you don't mind, I'd like to team up with you and see what we can do about making a 3-point electric lift conversion. I've been studying this topic for awhile and can collect and post what I have aquired in pics, examples, and manuals. I have learned how Sears gave the electric 3-point hitches the ability to float or have a fixed down pressure. Both float and down pressure are very important to me because I can apply the same techniques to plows, front buckets and fel's. I've studied a lot about linear actuator's and would like to use them for my GT because I can take them off from one attachment and mount them to another very quickly. I also have owned a Suburban with a Johnson Workhorse FEL. So I know the differences between hydraulic and linear actuators.

I currently have for my conversion:
- A 3-point hitch plate that has a terribly bent handle.
- Lots of available steel for fabricating
- A linear actuator with a 250 lb lift capacity

Can we team up and see what kind of contraption we can build?

I'd like to build it for this tractor. I'd like to do my modifications before I do the final prep and painting.

 

Earth, you should just clear coat that frame and body and slap a "delorean" sticker on the side 'Course then, you'd have to make something be gullwing on it

I love the ground Metal look !!!

 

Ya know, the ground metal look may just become the color of choice! I've had a terrible time deciding what color scheme to use. Maybe we should call it 'Ground Metal"? This is the tractor that I am doing a mod-restore. Meaning, no rules. I will be powering this with my NOS Tecumseh HH100 that has a 20 Amp charging system. It should be able to handle Linear Actuator's. I also have a Curtis Cab.

Funny though, I do like the bare metal look.

 

Earth

I'd be glad to work with someone else on this idea.

I have a 3 point with a "modded" lift handle [PO cut right angle turn and forced deck lift tubing over rod] and I have my earthcavator.

I also have a sleeve hitch for a later tractor

and an electric linear actuator of unknown strength.

I would be very glad to have suggestions and share results as I get them.

Your tractor looks great! Please keep the pictures coming!

Mark

 

Okay. I'm actually serious about the electirc 3 point hitch. This pic illustrates how Sears designed the floating 3-point lift arms. Apparently these arms were an avaliable option for the electric lift. My plan is to make the arms with a nut on both sides of the float. That way I can also adjust the mechanism so I could apply down pressure or keep an attachment at a fixed height. For example, keeping a grading blade at a fixed height just an inch above ground level. I like the way Sears designed this because it looks like it would protect the linear actuator since it should absorb a lot of the vibration and shock. I think this floating principal can also be applied to a dozer blade, snow blower, or a johnny bucket type of attachment. At least that's my long term goal.

 

This is a close up image of a stock 3-point hitch plate. I found it interesting to see the placement of top actuator brackets. This was done so there would be enough room for the actuator and adjustable center link. This will be more clear in the following pics.

 

And now a pic of the full electric hitch.

 

 

 

 

Those short lower arms look like the ones I have that came with the 3 point to sleeve hitch adapter.

 

 

 

Guys if you dont mind me getting in on this id like to make a suggestion! i have looked at alot of electric actuators & this is what i have come up with !!! "just a suggestion b4 spending alot" ! The electric actuators on the old satelite dishes are made for all weather purpose, they are also rated from anywhere to 3000lbs on up dynamic load (lifting) & even more static load (holding load) wich makes since given as big as the dishes are & having to fight against the wind & other elements! Im all for making somethin out of nothing lol! Just take a look at the scrapyards i visit on my other threads ! i picked up two of these in one day at a scrapyard for 4 bucks ! the down side is they are rather slow & rather long ! However they can be shortened with minimum effort ! Some of the later ones are even variable speed ! My plans are to do exactly the same thing as what you guys are doing so thought id just add my 1/2 cent to your plans b4 you got to far into it ! :thThumbsU

 

earth sorry to tell you but the links in the 1st pic are for the manual 3pt hitch ( for the tiller so the handel dose not jump up and down i see they are bent in the top that alows them to lock in the up poiston when on the manual 3pt hitch ) i have a set they suck for any thing other then the tiller but with the factory power 1 you just put it down all the way and let the tiller go

 

Don't be sorry. Thanks for posting. If you didn't tell us I never would have known.

 

So does the factory electric 3-point float?

 

Yea it floats. The way the lift is built, part of the lift just rest on the
actuator. I'll take a photo that shows it if you want.

 

The part the red arrow is pointing to just sits there. When the actuator goes up it goes up.

If you grab a lower lift arm this is what happens. The actuator is not hooked to the lift links.. No down pressure.

 

That's great info Small Fry. I'm sure glad this thread got started. Thanks for the posts. It definately is sending me in a better directions.

 

Image of a Sears Electric Lift Kit 917.252421

 

Fry, that's a great photo for estimating load capabilities. If you look at the relative link lengths, you can get a decent estimate of how the 3-point load translates to load at the actuator. Since everything is connected with rigid links, a napkin-math approximation would be a single third-order lever. Looks to be about a 4x force multiplier - a 100lb load at the end of the 3-point draw bars would result in a 400lb force at the actuator. Not exact, but certainly the right order of magnitude.

 

Fry,, why cant you put a hole in the arm ,,take the bolt out put a pin in its place to make it have down presher and takethe pin out of arm to let it float but put the pin back in for a stop i think that might work?