Off to a GREAT start! :thThumbsU

You will be raising and lowering with a winch, is my guess.

 

Thanks. Tactor has lifting hydraulics. I'll be connecting to that system.

 

Good luck with your project and keep the pics coming. slkpk

 

How will the hydraulics attach?

 

A bell crank and direct link to cylinder rocker shaft. Seen hanging loose here. It will allow the drag to float and a rigid connection (not done yet) will allow down pressure.

 

Here you can see the link between the bell crank and the rocker shaft arm. In the raised position. Nothing is pinned, welded or bolted yet, just tacked, clamped, but I did run it and it does go up and down. Raises the drag about 5"- 6" at the low point. Can't wait to see if this thing works on my driveway.

 

Mounting plates welded in place. Tongue in place ready for drilling. Tongue will be bolted to the mounting plates.

 

Tongue bolted to drag and end plates tacked on for effect. In up position and down position.

 

The beam does not appear to be able to osculate in relation to the rear axle.

If it does not osculate on the hitch, you may find that using the drag in reverse will fill holes better than going forward.

Having the fixed axle trailing the drag will have the fixed axle running on filled holes rather than running down into them.

I mention this so that you may consider extending the wings to the rear also.

Rear extension of the wings will also give more leveling effect.

IMHO

 

I had to look up "osculate" to get your meaning. I learned a new word. You're right. It will not pivot side to side. Only floating length wise. I think I understand. Fortunately, the "holes are small and should fill easily. I don't think this will be a problem in my case, but I will keep your suggestion in mind. I'm going to just tack the end wings so that I can make mods later if need be. I'm close to being able to test what I have, so far.

 

I speak from experience that you need rear wings.

I did not put them on when I built this!!

:crybaby:

 

I speak from experience that you need rear wings.

View attachment 188387

I did not put them on when I built this!!

:crybaby:

Do they have purpose going forward? Or just backing? I can always add them. Nice thing about having a shop and equipment. I'm certainly not versed in implements, so this is an ongoing experiment.

 

Not much done today. Pins and shafts drilled for clips (hairpins). Thinking about how it would be used, I decided it would be a nuisance to remove it (the whole apparatus) when I wanted to use the dozer blade. Then it occurred to me that the added weight hanging out behind would be advantageous. So I added a tube and pin affair to hold it in the raised position. The tube slides into the receiver and pins to the tongue.

The whole thing weighs 65# so far and a bit more when the rippers are added. I haven't weighed the hitch, but it also adds a bit of weight. It's getting close to 100# of added weight, all of it hanging behind the axle. Getting close to the same as wheel weights. The leverage would make it seem to be more.

Locked in the raised postion, all I need to do is change the linkages to the hydraulics rocker shaft, to switch to the dozer blade. I will have to fix the dozer blade hardware to lock in the raised position, too.

 

Teeth are in place and ready for testing. That will have to wait for a break in the weather.

I'll see if it does the job before I paint.

This site sudddenly won't upload my pictures. Says "This is not a valid image file." Yet it is the same as all the files I've sent before. Less than 50k and .jpg. Must be mad at me.

If you're interested in what they look like they are posted on my website at http://www.metalsmithpro.com/Gilson.htm

 

It let me upload the pictures this morning. I weighed it, again, after the completion and it weighs exactly 80#.

 

looks nice. a place i used to work used an I-beam drag and rock an gravel would pile up on top of it which wasn't bad for it it made for more weight and better cut in but with down force u may not need the extra and cutting the front edge off may help. to much down force and you'll lose traction.

 

If more weight is needed, I can fill the top of the beam with concrete. If it is OK without more weight, I'm thinking about welding a cap over the top to keep it from filling.

wicked cool!

Thanks. But will it work? I'm thinking I may paint it first, then test. That way I won't have to clean mud off of it first.

 

wicked cool!

 

i've always used an I-beam with a chain so i could adjust the pitch

 

I agree that you might want to cut the front lip off. with the front lip the beam will have a want to roll or twist forward putting much pressure on your welds. with the front cut off the rear of the beam becomes the blade and if you get a rock wedged or tree root it will hop over it with less stress on your welds. look at the design of a box scraper there is a reason there is not two grading blades...

just my opinion I am no expert my wife still has that job....

 

I understand what you're saying. My thoughts are that with the front lip cut off, the gravel will build up under the beam and tend to raise it. That may happen anyway. I would think that if two lips are a problem, I should cut off the back one to avoid build-up under the beam. I guess I will know more after I get a chance to use it. I'll be painting today and trying it out early next week, weather permitting. Predictions are for good weather.

 

All painted and back on. Tested and got it all dirty. Does it work? Yes. It does. But I think I can improve it. Maybe more weight (Ididn't try down pressure). Maybe more "teeth".

The two edges of the "I" beam are not a problem. It smooths nicely. Just needs more digging ability to loosen up 40 years of packed gravel.

Still lots to do, but I made a dent in the jhob.

 

Both the new attachment and the gravel are looking sharp , That should at least hold the grass and weeds at bay , keep us updated with your design changes , trial and error are still good methods to figuring things out .
Is that you r workshop/mancave by the boats ?

 

Thanks. I believe I can keep the grass/weeds on the run.

Yes. That building in the back is where it all happens. It was my business shop until I retired, now it's just MY shop.....and a 50' rifle/pistol range inside, too. For when I get frustrated and need relief. Sometimes, I think I should go back to work so I have more time for fun things.

 

That looks fantastic! Great job on the scraper. You're going to get many years of use from that unit. :thThumbsU

My Brinly Hardy box grader weighs about 70# and I have to add weight to get it to really dig in.

If you're not to far away, I may have to recruit you to do some fabrication work

 

An idea for added weight. I have some scrap 4"x4" tube. I'll cut it to length to fit inside the top of the "I" beam (three pieces) and fill them with concrete. Handles welded to the tube for easy handling. Just lay them inside the "I" beam as needed.

If you're not to far away, I may have to recruit you to do some fabrication work

Thanks. :thanku:

How far is too far?

 

Looks like youi're over 100 miles away...probably a bit too far for me. :crybaby:

 

Nice work and looks great. Very good fab skills. I was thinking along the I beam idea for my C145 as it also has hydro lift. What did you use for the rippers? Keep up the good work.

 

:thanku:

The rippers are just 5/8" cold rolled round bar stock about 2" long (below the bottom of the beam). Cold rolled is harder than black and should last a long time. If they begin showing signs of wear, I can add material in the form of weld beads (which is also quite hard). I'm adding weight, as noted above, which should help them dig in.

 

For added weight, I've cut some scrap 4"x4"x.120 wall tube and capped one end. I'll fill with concrete and cap the other end. Handles added. They just rest in the "I" beam. I estimate it will add ~50#.

 

I LIKES it!!

Very well done! :trink39:

 

Thanks. I'm pleased that it works well. The added weight should help it dig in that packed gravel.

:thanku::thanku: