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Briggs did make the Intek with the auxilliary PTO shaft, but it might not work in this situation, as the cam on the intek is low on the block, and your main PTO would be in the way of the belt.

I think the model was 120292 and the Type was 0570
 
Perhaps if that idler pulley had 2 sheaves instead of one,it could be used to drive the tines,as a idler running off the flat side of the belt would spin in the opposite direction than the engine....at any rate,it'll take some re-engineering!..
 
Red: got to love MTD...
Assuming you meant their 'designers', I can relate the story of the swabby I worked with who told me he was a GS draftsman prior to USN service.
His boss told him to draft up a machine to take in nerve/poison shells, cut them up, drain out the nerve gas/liquid, send it off to be disposed {incinerated?}, and then clean the remaining pieces of the now cut-up shell casing, and then cough them out the other end. No human intervention allowed.
One would have thought that an experienced design engineer would have been called for to make all that monkey motion happen with a decent prospect of things actually working for more than one or two cycles before jamming or something breaking. But no. It was the FedGov and GSA in particular at work. They don't need no engineers. See.
I wonder if it ever worked...
That said, I have seen products from a lot of makers and just shake my head. Sometimes they seem to use extra parts just to use up the stock from the previous model, and sometimes they skip a flat washer here and a locking tab there ... so a 3cent part can take apart a pretty expensive piece of gear... and break a lot of 'things' when it gets into the wrong spot. Do they ever have *someone* look over their shoulder and evaluate assembly labor and parts cost vs probable warranty claims when it fails?
tom
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Well I fired this up and seems to run better than it ever did. All I did was change the cam really,,and the cover.

Looking at the old cam I see nothing wrong with it. Seems the lobes are not worn at all. Blows my mind.

Problem is I don't know what to charge this guy. For a used engine and my time. In a way ,,I guess he is very lucky that I had a engine I could use and make this work. And now he has some extra parts,,,a carb,tank,,rewind starter.

And I ended up with a brand new engine on my tiller. That Predator engine seems very nice.
 
If it were me...

150 for the engine, covers cost and time to swap the cam.

and 40 for the engine swap.

His alternatives, were to buy a new tiller, or not have a tiller, as the engine options are next to nil.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
If it were me...

150 for the engine, covers cost and time to swap the cam.

and 40 for the engine swap.

His alternatives, were to buy a new tiller, or not have a tiller, as the engine options are next to nil.
LOL. I just got off the phone with him,,before I read this. I told him $180. ($10 difference.) And just about the same thing you said about engines.

I also changed all the belts,,on his request. That is not included in my price. I think they were another $50-$60 or so.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
I doubt you will find a replacement, I am pretty sure they were discontinued probably quite awhile ago. I need three of them right now myself. MIGHT want to think about modifying a std. block and using the camshaft from the original IF it is OK.

Walt Conner
Thanks for the help,,,I would not have felt as confident that the cam and cover was interchangeable if not for you. It worked like a charm.
 
Ive got a 5hp engine here on a TB Pony, has the cover and cam intact...engine has stuck valves and a bad carb/tank....
 
I have a nice 6 HP Tecumseh with the double shafts on a Airens front tined tiller that doesn't look like it was used much...couldn't even get 75 bucks for it on my front lawn a few weeks ago!..all it needs is a float for the carb,I "ran out" of good used ones,and dont have $$$$ to buy a new one for something I am not keeping!..I thought the engine was worth at least 75,seeing they are "extinct" now...and quite a few snowblowers used them....
I also have a Simplicity "Roto-Cull"front tine tiller with a 5 HP "double shaft" B&S on it that runs OK,but does smoke a bit..sold another Agway one very similar to a friend for 50 bucks last year,no one else would even make an offer...guess people just dont like tillers if they aren't a rear tined version??..but I see some optimist on CL asking 125-200 bucks for those double shaft engines..wonder if anyone ever BUYS one?...
 
I have a nice 6 HP Tecumseh with the double shafts on a Airens front tined tiller that doesn't look like it was used much...couldn't even get 75 bucks for it on my front lawn a few weeks ago!..all it needs is a float for the carb,I "ran out" of good used ones,and dont have $$$$ to buy a new one for something I am not keeping!..I thought the engine was worth at least 75,seeing they are "extinct" now...and quite a few snowblowers used them....
I also have a Simplicity "Roto-Cull"front tine tiller with a 5 HP "double shaft" B&S on it that runs OK,but does smoke a bit..sold another Agway one very similar to a friend for 50 bucks last year,no one else would even make an offer...guess people just dont like tillers if they aren't a rear tined version??.but I see some optimist on CL asking 125-200 bucks for those double shaft engines..wonder if anyone ever BUYS one?...
a friend tells me his son is looking for a tiller but I didn't have one. A week or two later he leaves a message saying his son has one but needs a pulley. After some phone tag I don't hear and then after a week he shows up in my drive with it. It's an old sears roto spader with a replacement 04 briggs 5.5 OHV engine. No bottom pulley and says fuel line leaks. So I have a 6" pulley and put it on. Have to approximate belt size so pickup a FHP one for testing. Turns out I needed to really fiddle and finally fabbed a belt retainer (angle bracket) to get it to neutral. No fuel shut-off valve so I add one. Now I find leak is not hose at carb but the carb elbow is cracked. I was able to clamp a short hose piece to the brass stub and had an elbow to bring line back to path. Oh, did I mention the tines were on backwards? So I had to turn them around. So I do the first test and notice big gap in centre of till. Centre tines are bent. So off they come and into the vice with a big breaker bar to get straightened. Next test and it tills ok except 6" pulley is too big so the tines are slow. 5 or 5.5 " might work better, cost about $15. So I take it back and say I hope he didn't pay too much as it's really old except for the engine and showed what I did. I tell him parts I put on will cost him $20. Basically I wasn't charging for time. He says the guy wanted $50. I said the motor alone was worth that if not more. But now he says he probably won't buy it. I said I'd buy it for $50. He says he's going back to the guy and tell him all the issues and he may just say to keep it. Well the guy is firm on the $50 and the friend doesn't want it so I'm taking it for the $50. Obviously if the friend doesn't want it he won't have any reason to pay me the $20 in parts ( makes it a $70 tiller, decent in my opinion) and the seller has no interest in paying me as he did not ask for it to be fixed up. So I spend more time taking my stuff off or I own it for the $50 and parts I already had on hand. I do think though that I learned a lesson in this for future reference. And I expect my friend to give me a good deal on a small wedge table I need made.

But on the other hand I lucked out and got a real nice old massey tiller for free. The engine runs but needs a tuneup .
 
Does anyone have a H35 tech with a 3/4 pto crank shaft, good or rebuildable? the h35 I have has a smaller shaft I think 5/8 so I cant change out the end plate, or an end plate for the smaller shaft would work, if it has the hole for cam shaft if not I'll have to put it in the mill and bore out the cam shaft plug and drill and tap 2 holes in the older end plate. IK need to get this out of my hair and move on as work is pileing up and cant spend much more time on this, been working around this long enough ED
 
I'll double check the crank's today and get back to you .Im sure even the H30 would work as I just did a 2 1/2 briggs on a larger tiller and it works fine. the smaller crank would be fine if it has the end plate drilled out for the cam shaft to stick out . The one I have has very little wear, just dont have the right end plate for the old cam to fit with out boreing the end out and installing the new seal. thanks guys will post in about an hour ED
 
Red thats a nice looking little guy what are you asking for it? I know shipping clear up here will cost $$$ but if you need it you need it . I double checked and the one like yours has a 5/8 pto shaft end and the one I need is a 3/4 the cut down wnd would'nt matter as long as I could replace the cam and end plate from mine not sure on the cam though as mine is a H35 dont know what the change is that makes it 3.5 hp I think the bore is the same ED
 
Looks like my old Ariens Rocket VII tiller, had a tecumseh HH70 engine.

It would run about 65-70 dollars or more to ship it. I just got quoted 48 to ship a 10hp block/crank top Idaho...unreal.
 
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