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340B differential level

4.9K views 8 replies 3 participants last post by  Teds 2600  
#1 ·
Hello all and happy new year!
I am working on a Ford 340B industrial tractor.
Tractor # C733052
Model # CU414C
Unit # 4L32B
The right axle seal is leaking and i need to know how to check the diff level.
It is a manual trans and has a independent PTO.
And i read on the easternet that i should use 134G fluid...is that correct?
Thanks for any info!
If anyone has a manual on file that would be awsome!
 
#2 ·
Hi, and Happy New Year to you also.

Which right axle seal are you referring to? The one that the brake actuating rod passes through, or the one at the end of the axle where the wheel is attached?

Yes, that tractor has a wet clutch pack for the independent PTO and inboard wet brakes inside the rear axle/hydraulic sump, so you need to use a fluid that says on the label that it meets or exceeds the Ford/New Holland M2C134D specification.

The rear axle level check is a hole on the right side of the center housing near where your right heel is when you're sitting on the tractor that has a square headed pipe plug in it. Fill it through the hole with the large hex plug that is directly under your right butt cheek while you're sitting on the tractor until it just begins to drip out of the level check hole. The fill plugs is labelled 35 and the level check plug is labelled 6 in the drawing below:

Image
 
#3 ·
Which right axle seal are you referring to? The one that the brake actuating rod passes through, or the one at the end of the axle where the wheel is attached?
Hmmm , im not sure now. The inside of the wheel is wet and its also making the tire wet. So i assumed it was a axle seal. I will take a closer look at it tonight.
Where does the brake rod enter the rear?

Thank you Redneck for the info though!! This will at least get me going!
 
#4 ·
You can follow the right brake pedal through its linkage to the rod that enters the right axle on the front side down low. If it's leaking on the inside of the wheel then it is almost definitely the axle seal itself. Is it rear wheel drive or does it have 4WD? In either case, you need to get a service manual to tackle the job of replacing that seal.
 
#6 ·
Sounds like you need a couple of engine hoists/cherry pickers. One for the wheel and the other for the axle trumpet.

Just be careful with that liquid filled tire. People have been killed trying to remove them. If you have an equipment rental place nearby, you might consider renting an off-road forklift to handle that wheel/tire.
 
#7 ·
The brake / clutch shaft seal is leaking on my 2600 Series on the right side. I'm planning to replace the bushings / seals / felt dust washers. I see parts suppliers still offer the shaft itself ..... wondering how often the bushings wear to the point of needing a new shaft? I would think you'd be leaking like crazy if the bushings and shaft are gone to the point of needing a new shaft.

... And while I'm in there a prior owner removed the "screw" item 33 in your drawing so yea, I've got that going on also. Planning to reach through the left side inspection plate for that task.
 
#8 ·
A 2600 is easier to handle because it doesn't have the planetary gears and inboard wet brakes inside each axle trumpet. But I believe that once you get the axle trumpet off of the tractor, you need to split the ring with a cold chisel to get the bearings and seal out. I'm not 100% sure on that with a 2600 as I only have direct knowledge of the slightly earlier 2000/3000 but I think they are the same.

If you have really long arms then you might be able to hold that bracket in place inside with one hand through the inspection plate hole while you start the screw with the other hand. Some folks claim to have done it that way. Easier with a helper.