I wish I could be there to help pick up that 420 diff with ya. Does anyone know the Peerless model # differential that is in the 420? www.Peerlesspump.com has parts/seals

 

Sorry incorrect website. Please ignore that.

I found this interesting info for the Peerless 2600-001.

http://www.wfmfiles.com/download/Tecumseh-Peerless_Motion_Drive_System_-_Transmissions_&_Differentials(691218).pdf

Another older manual:

https://struckcorp.com/downloads/mt3000/pdf/Peerless%20Mechanics%20Manual.pdf

 

I did this swap on my 332 last year. I might have the local parts store seal #'s but I'm thinking I threw the page away in the summer. You will have to cut a hole in the top right of the frame rail and fender pan for the 2 speed lever. The locking rod will require a slot cut in the side of the frame and a hole in the fender pan where your right heel sits. The locking rod uses 2 brackets that will need to be bolted to the side of the frame.

The swap wasn't a hard thing to do. Before I put the differential in, I split the case and re-sealed it and then used new seals on the axles and linkage. I have a few pictures but didn't take many.

 

Thanks for the info and pics. Was it difficult splitting the case and re-sealing it? What benefit /downside is there to that? What did you use to cut into the frame?

From all my questions and research i have turned up some seal part numbers.

Pump O-ring U44496
axle seals M48934
linkage seals M48949
case gasket M94095

From my knowledge (which is limited) Ill need 1 Pump o ring 2 axle seals and 2 linkage seal? IS this correct does anyone have a picture diagram that i can look at?

 

So i went and checked everything out. The transmission looked to be in good shape the original tractor had about 1100 hours on it. coming off an 89 420. The rods were from an old 430 that he had laying around. he left the 420 stuff still on the tractor so i could see how things were mounted and get a visual on how it would go together. It looks really simple to do. Next step is to order the seal sand o rings.

I need to decide if i want to split the case open and replace the gasket. ive heard horror stories where you split the case and it never works again. Im leaning on not doing it for that reason. The gasket around it looks ok? and it does not feel like its dried out still greasy around.

Any thoughts on this?

Now that ive seen it im not as intimidated by it. Really i think cutting the holes in the frame will be the hardest part. Ill post pictures later.

 

The only issue I have had with this tranny is the place where the hi/lo rod goes in and out of the tranny. If it leaks the only way to stop it is to split the case and replace the seal inside. On two 400's that I have had I can tell that both have been split. So it must be a common issue with the gaskets.

 

Is it dangerous to split this case? are there any springs or parts that will pop out if i do it?

 

I have the factory maintenance manual and I will look it up for you. I do not believe there is but I do know that they recommend that you do it with a particular side up.

 

Thanks rudy! How do you tell which side the particular side is? Ive been watching transmission videos all day to learn as much as i can but unfortunately i can't find one with any john deere transmission.

 

Here are the pictures of the case split. Sorry about the weird angles but the book was too thick to fit into my scanner. It looks like they use a pipe through the axle hole to support the case and then remove the cover. I put in the middle picture because it mentioned the little lock nut on the case. I hope this helps.

 

That's for the 400 it uses the Peerless 2500 not the 2600 that's in the 316-332 and 420-430.

 

Drawings from JDparts.com

 

Also I always use local part store seals/bearings rather than JD. I find JD seals/bearings to be 2-3x the price of the part store. Sometimes it takes some serious cross referencing, but it can be done.

 

Ok so its around a month away from doing this switch and i want to get to ordering my gaskets and seals. Im extremely paranoid about this because i want it to go smoothly. could someone verify i have all the right part numbers. Remembering its for a 420 transmission now.

Pump O-ring U44496
axle seals M48934
linkage seals M48949
transmission oil filter AM39653

case gasket M94095 (if its cheap i might have it on hand) dont plan on swapping it unless its leaking.

 

All your P/N look good, but the seals are listed a NLA

 

Im gonna guess that NLA means not locally available?....

 

Thanks for the help everyone all parts are ordered should be here by the end of the week!

 

You're going to love the 2 speed and locking diff when working your Bufford Bucket!

 

Were you able to get the NLA seals?

 

Yup they said they were in stock in the warehouse but they should be here by the end of the week

 

Then JDparts.com needs to do some up dating. Good way to lose sales, I would have looked else where.

 

Well its been a long time coming this weekend has officially been giving the name tractor upgrade weekend. Come Friday I will start the process of stripping down the 332 removing old transmission putting new transmission in. Also I will be doing the Aux hydr H3 modification. Im really excited to do this but also a little terrified.

I really wanted to avoid splitting the transmission case and putting in a new gasket but i found it in a pool of its own fluids this weekend. Im not sure if it came from the axle or the case though. I have since cleaned it up and am hoping to determine that soon. part of me thinks i should just order the gasket and do the swap but the other part of me fears getting it back together correctly.

As for the H3 mod it seems pretty straight forward and im sure ill understand it more once i get in there. the only part i have questions on is how do i actually remove the radiator. ive found how to drain it but not how to remove..

again all info help is appreciated needles to say ill update you all with pics as i go alone

 

also if anyone has any pictures of how the dif and the 2 speed attach onto the transmission case that would be super helpful

 

im trying to figure out how the diff rod and 2 speed rod attach to the case. I assume each one gets one of those pins on the side. Where does the bracket on the side of the case come into play?

 

I only have a picture of the locking rod. The 2 speed rod installs similar. The bracket on the differential with the 2 elongated slots are detents for the 2 speed lever. They kinda hold it in low or high gear.

 

Very helpful thanks trac!

 

Before you go to install it look carefully at the two seals that both input rods, locking diff and hi/lo rod, to the tranny go through. I had a 430 that leaked at one of them and it is an easy job to replace with it out of the tractor but a very difficult one if it is installed. Also, when I went to refill the tranny and was watching the clear tube for the level of fluid. it overflowed out of the plastic fitting on the top of the tranny. In other words, the clear tube will not tell you the level as you pour it, only after it has settled down so be careful.

 

Thanks for the heads up... i have new seals for everything so i should be all good there. I had planned on using the fluid level as my guide but seems that is a bust. guess ill have to go by the guidlines or i think 4.3 qts or something like that ill have to double check

 

Dr, Before I mow, I do a quick walk around on my 322...hydro oil level, engine oil level, screens, radiator level, and tires. With the hydro level in the middle of the site gauge when I start, it takes approx. 10 minutes for it to back to mid-gauge after mowing...nature of the beast. Bob

 

Hmm that’s the way I was planning on doing it.... might have to rethink this

 

so i did this this weekend... it went pretty well but still some complications. Ill post pictures pictures tomorrow if people want them... the dif and 2 speed are installed went easily really. im having issues with moving the 2 speed into the high range its really hard. and i dont think the spring is working the best it can or i didn't put the braces in properly to allow for rotation. it doesn't pull the detent back up into the groove like i think its suppose to, and moving into neutral or low is easy. there is a leak at a connection at the powertrain so im ordering a new hose. didn't have time for the h3 but i will attempt that soon. special thanks to MERC for the help.. he was a huge help and i dont think he knows how much help he was.

 

So Its time for pictures . As i said in the last post the installation went ok. Took longer then expected but really not to bad. HUGE THANKS TO MERC for all the help this last weekend.
20190525_155938 by drgibby, on Flickr

split the case and replaced the gasket
20190525_165125 by drgibby, on Flickr

2 speed installation. as you can see the spring im not sure if it has enough tension or not but it doesn't fully pull the detent into the retaining spot unless you pull back up on the lever. Also I have issues getting it into high gear. Have anyone else run into this issue? Is there binding on the rod or anything like that. Also it could be that i dont know what im doing as it almost feels like there are 4 positions. far left middle right and further right. I can't test them because i haven't gotten the tractor to run due to a leak in a hydraulic hose.

<20190526_191538 by drgibby, on Flickr

leaking here
20190526_231133 by drgibby, on Flickr

after i hit the point where im waiting for the new hose i decided to replace the fuel and oil filter and i needed a new ball joint so i put those in

20190527_102337 by drgibby, on Flickr

overall it was a good weekend. Im planning on doing the H3 installation next which is good since the other side of that hose is in a horrible place unless i planned on getting back there to begin with