Looking at adding a 3 point hitch to my 445. Ruegg looks to be the route I will be going, but wanted opinions on cat 0 vs. cat 1. I would like to be able to make use of a quick tach for ease of use but have been having a difficult time finding any cat 0 options. I also notice cat 1 implements appear to be more plentiful. If this is the case, why or what is the purpose of a cat 0?
dblomquist
Cat 0 was the original hitch that was available new for the 445.
In 2002 Deere Came out with the Limited Cat 1 3point for the(X465 thru X595). Basically had the lift Capacity of a Cat 0(450lbs) with the 3 point width of a Cat 1.
Many manufacturers made Cat0/1 Implements Cat 0 always cost more then Cat 1 Implements. You could get some Cat 1 Implements and put Cat 0 pins on it and use it with the Cat 0 3point. So Deere decided some of the Cat 1 implements that were manufactured at the time that a Cat 0 3point could lift it and be able to run it. So Deere went with a Limited Cat 1 3point(Simplicity followed JD's Lead By adding a Limited Cat 1 in 2003) It was Limited On the weight of the Implement and lift height that the implement could be picked up.
Get the Limited Cat 1 3point from Bill Reugg. The 445 will handle that and many implements just fine.
Plus Cat 0 for the most part is dead the Major Manufacturer Brinly & Hardy stopped producing Cat 0 in 2005. Impact Implements are still available In Cat 0 and there quality Implements but the purpose for Cat 0 today is really geared towards ATV's
Now Bill does make a Cat0/1 3point for the 425 thru 455. That hitch would allow you to use both Cat 0 and Cat 1 implements. It's call a Combo hitch on his website
I recently converted a Cat 0 Cub Cadet Category 0 - 3 Point Kits that was Made for a Cub Cadet Super Garden tractor with the Help of some Parts from Bill Ruegg to convert that Cat 0 to a limited Cat 1 3point. Because most of my other Tractors with 3 point hitches have a Cat 1 3point so it just Makes since to have all my 3 point Hitches Limited Cat 1's. So with that Cub Cadet super I can run either Cat 0 or Cat 1 Implements.
So again I Vote for the Limited Cat 1 or the Cat0/ Limited Cat 1 Bill Reugg Produces
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In 2002 Deere Came out with the Limited Cat 1 3point for the(X465 thru X595). Basically had the lift Capacity of a Cat 0(450lbs) with the 3 point width of a Cat 1.
Many manufacturers made Cat0/1 Implements Cat 0 always cost more then Cat 1 Implements. You could get some Cat 1 Implements and put Cat 0 pins on it and use it with the Cat 0 3point. So Deere decided some of the Cat 1 implements that were manufactured at the time that a Cat 0 3point could lift it and be able to run it. So Deere went with a Limited Cat 1 3point(Simplicity followed JD's Lead By adding a Limited Cat 1 in 2003) It was Limited On the weight of the Implement and lift height that the implement could be picked up.
Get the Limited Cat 1 3point from Bill Reugg. The 445 will handle that and many implements just fine.
Plus Cat 0 for the most part is dead the Major Manufacturer Brinly & Hardy stopped producing Cat 0 in 2005. Impact Implements are still available In Cat 0 and there quality Implements but the purpose for Cat 0 today is really geared towards ATV's
Now Bill does make a Cat0/1 3point for the 425 thru 455. That hitch would allow you to use both Cat 0 and Cat 1 implements. It's call a Combo hitch on his website
I recently converted a Cat 0 Cub Cadet Category 0 - 3 Point Kits that was Made for a Cub Cadet Super Garden tractor with the Help of some Parts from Bill Ruegg to convert that Cat 0 to a limited Cat 1 3point. Because most of my other Tractors with 3 point hitches have a Cat 1 3point so it just Makes since to have all my 3 point Hitches Limited Cat 1's. So with that Cub Cadet super I can run either Cat 0 or Cat 1 Implements.
So again I Vote for the Limited Cat 1 or the Cat0/ Limited Cat 1 Bill Reugg Produces
When I first got my CUT, I struggled with my one big implement, a 500lb grading scraper. But, I only had one other implement, a two bar. I ended up buying the Harbor Freight quick hitch. It didn't make it easier and the quality of the connection was much worse.
I then made a cart of my grading scraper. This makes it much easier to move the GS slightly to get it lined up. I now also have 5' and 6' rear blades. They are actually much easier to move slightly, so I haven't felt the need to do anything to make them easier.
All of the quick hitches add some weight and move the implement farther back. This will change the lift capacity that is left, and not for the better. Depending on the implement this might or might not matter. For my GS, it would. When it is full of material, my 3PH can barely lift it (and it has more than double, almost triple the lift rating of your machine).
Pat's system looks interesting, but provides no actual size information, so not clear it would work withy GS. The extra length, also moves the pins farther back, so need a longer top link setting for the same angle. This could actually be a good thing, when I get a hydraulically adjustable one, but I would need one that covers the range, and they typically have less adjustment range than the manual ones. But, for the 4x5 series it might be a really good thing, since getting a top link that is small enough can be a challenge.
I agree that cat 1 is the way to go. It is very hard to find cat 0 implements.
I then made a cart of my grading scraper. This makes it much easier to move the GS slightly to get it lined up. I now also have 5' and 6' rear blades. They are actually much easier to move slightly, so I haven't felt the need to do anything to make them easier.
All of the quick hitches add some weight and move the implement farther back. This will change the lift capacity that is left, and not for the better. Depending on the implement this might or might not matter. For my GS, it would. When it is full of material, my 3PH can barely lift it (and it has more than double, almost triple the lift rating of your machine).
Pat's system looks interesting, but provides no actual size information, so not clear it would work withy GS. The extra length, also moves the pins farther back, so need a longer top link setting for the same angle. This could actually be a good thing, when I get a hydraulically adjustable one, but I would need one that covers the range, and they typically have less adjustment range than the manual ones. But, for the 4x5 series it might be a really good thing, since getting a top link that is small enough can be a challenge.
I agree that cat 1 is the way to go. It is very hard to find cat 0 implements.
Frogmore if You have questions You can contact the designer of Pats easy change Here Products/Services Northern Tool has been selling Pats system for about 15 years Now. It's not a new system and it's been in Production since 2000 and the Link I provided to Tractor Mikes website has a review on the whole system as well
Excuse me for interrupting your conversation but I have a related question.....Can a 3 point hitch be used along with a click n go bracket or will the click n go need to be removed?
Thanks,
Dan
Thanks,
Dan
@Sergeant when you installed the 3 point and the click n go brackets did you do them at the same time or was one added after the other? I guess what I'm wanting to know is should I hold off installing one or the other until I get both? Does having one installed before the other make things easier or complicate the process?
The norm for top-n-tilt is to use hydraulic cylinders. While tilt can be very useful, the top is even more so. The remote you are adding is in parallel with one of the two controls you have. So, you are not able to adjust that cylinder independently. Depending on which circuit the remote is added to this will either be a minor inconvenience or not really usable at all. This is the reason you hear about H3, H5, and even H7 conversions. My CUT came with H3. One for the 3PH height, and 2 for the loader. I added a diverter to the curl to give me an independent control for my grapple. I have an extra joystick valve that I will add to give me two more independently controllable remotes in the back for top-n-tilt. That will make it H6. Adding extra control is hard due to space constraints and cost, but provides independent control.
On my X749, I only have H2 (standard) and haven't even added the lockout valve yet. Since I don't have the deck on, this is still usable. But, angling the front blade takes longer and it doesn't stay put. Lockout valves are cheaper, but nowhere near as convenient as independent control. If I was using the mower, I would want independent control of: mower height, 3PH height, front height, front angle, top link position. That would be H5. I think it is possible to do that, but I doubt it is easy or cheap.
On my X749, I only have H2 (standard) and haven't even added the lockout valve yet. Since I don't have the deck on, this is still usable. But, angling the front blade takes longer and it doesn't stay put. Lockout valves are cheaper, but nowhere near as convenient as independent control. If I was using the mower, I would want independent control of: mower height, 3PH height, front height, front angle, top link position. That would be H5. I think it is possible to do that, but I doubt it is easy or cheap.
In top-n-tilt, tilt refers to right/left side level. Top refers to front/back level. So, completely different degree of freedom.
The angle cylinder control also controls deck height, which uses the same hydraulic cylinder to control 3PH height.
I remember how confusing all this stuff was when I started. It can still be confusing, but is a little more familiar. Tilt is mainly useful for dealing with crown. For that it is great. I have lived without it for 15 years, so it certainly is possible to not have it. However, I have heard that everyone who does have it wonders why it took them so long to get it. Since I don't have it, I KNOW the answer to that. It costs a LOT and the value is not so clear. I guess once you have it the value becomes clear.
I think it is like the hydraulic feed on my chipper. I resisted paying the $ it costs to get one that has it. But, now that I have it, I totally think it is worth it, and if mine died I would not hesitate to repair or replace it as necessary.
I am not there with tilt, but might change my mind once I have the remotes set up and it is (only) $500 to get the special tilt cylinder. I was sold on top control, which is why I bought the valve. But connecting it is a little complicated and I have had other priorities.
The angle cylinder control also controls deck height, which uses the same hydraulic cylinder to control 3PH height.
I remember how confusing all this stuff was when I started. It can still be confusing, but is a little more familiar. Tilt is mainly useful for dealing with crown. For that it is great. I have lived without it for 15 years, so it certainly is possible to not have it. However, I have heard that everyone who does have it wonders why it took them so long to get it. Since I don't have it, I KNOW the answer to that. It costs a LOT and the value is not so clear. I guess once you have it the value becomes clear.
I think it is like the hydraulic feed on my chipper. I resisted paying the $ it costs to get one that has it. But, now that I have it, I totally think it is worth it, and if mine died I would not hesitate to repair or replace it as necessary.
I am not there with tilt, but might change my mind once I have the remotes set up and it is (only) $500 to get the special tilt cylinder. I was sold on top control, which is why I bought the valve. But connecting it is a little complicated and I have had other priorities.
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