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23hp Intek Rebuild....this is why you stop using them when they smoke

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19K views 17 replies 10 participants last post by  IHcubguy  
#1 ·
What a shame..another one bites the dust...literally.

23hp Intek V-twin, 2007 model on a 2008 model rider, the engine ran fine, fired right up, but consumed about 3/4 quart an hour and required the plugs to be removed and cleaned in 2 hour intervals.

So this engine was given to me when I put a new engine on a guys mower back in like June of this year. I determined at the time that the engine had signifigant wear based on just removing one head and sold a new engine, I just had time to tear the engine down...

Removed the plastic shroud, and the sheetmetal guides, removed coils, flywheel, tin under flywheel, and the 2 harnesses.

Then removed the governor controls and the other head.

Then I removed the sump and popped the rods out...they slid out with no effort. The top rings are able to fall down their respective cylinders..no tension, and about .450 ring end gaps...hahaha

Both cylinders will clean up easy enough, no scarring at all, no wear in the ring inversion zone either.

The only bad thing I found besides the rings, were both rods had the early signs of thermal breakdown and metal transfer. Thankfully iy didnt pile up on the crank, but this engine was not far from tossing a rod or 2.

The other thing is on the upper cylinder, there is some skirt damage from running dry.

I think all problems can be resolved with some new rings, and some fine fine emory cloth to polish it all up...

Here is the worst of the 2 rods, and the worst of the 2 pistons.
You can see how far the rings are sunk into the ring lands....badly worn.

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#2 ·
I'm enjoying your engine posts.
Do you find it unusual that the rings could wear so much but not the cylinders?
If the engine avg'ed 50 hrs a season since 2008, it looks like that engine approx 150 hrs on it.
Was this one of those Intek's w/the poor fitting air cleaner?

Dave
 
#4 ·
The owner got the tractor in 08, right away he lost one of the 4 air filter box screws..he said it started smoking within a month and he used it until it started belching smoke and oil...so it took him about 2 years of gradual dirt consumption to kill it.

That 3 dollar screw could have saved this engine...
 
#5 ·
-I'm sorry, but people who don't have the basic knowledge of the most basic routine maintenance or care, or refuse to learn any of it, should be lined up and smacked in the side of their heads! I'm glad that some have enough money and not enough brains to constantly ruin their equipment.

-What happened to the times when people actually took care of their tools and equipment? I was taught this at an early age while mowing at my Grandparent's farm. I was probably 10 or 11 and would run Grandpa's old Snapper rider as fast as I could get it to go. He told me once to slow down. When I didn't, he came out and pulled me form the mower and handed me a scythe. After cutting the grass along the hog pen for a couple hours with the scythe, I had a revelation that I didn't need to run the mower that fast! Yeah, I was a bit of a slow learner then!

L8R,
Matt
 
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#6 ·
Got the block, sump, other head, and the tin under the flywheel all cleaned up.

Cylinders are honed for new rings. Tomorrow Ill remove the old gaskets..

I started my list of crap Im missing, Im thinking of calling some contacts and trying to find a vented V twin for the odds and ends Im missing, like 2 push rods, a head bolt, some sheetmetal retainer screws, and the choke control rod....things like that. A vented V twin, minus carb, starter, coils, flywheel and stator is only worth about 20 bucks tops.

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#7 ·
A friend says he might have a pair of like new rods out of one of these I can use, id like that more than using these cleaned up rods...if its available.

Apparently briggs doesnt want to sell ring sets for this engine, they want to sell a ring/piston assembly..haha, nice try briggs. Found seperate ring sets online...haha
 
#11 ·
I don't think I could do it myself, but did you ever consider getting some Prussian Blue, and re-sizing the big ends of the rods by hand? That's the way it was done back when. I worked with a guy who had a stove-bolt-six Chevy that had a bad rod bearing. It was not built with removable inserts, and the car was not worth putting any money into. He'd run it until it knocked too loud, then driver over a ditch, drop the pan, and remove the bearing cap. He had some leather that he would cut to fit, put that in place, bolted it back together, and poured the oil back into the crankcase. Drove off, and ran it until it started to knock again, and then he repeated the process.
Given that, and the comparably lighter load put on these rods, one should be able to clean up the fit and make it run decent if they had the time and patience.
tom
 
#15 ·
yep. I left the big shop I was at about a year ago, we couldnt come to terms on what my time and skill was worth as far as monetary value. Apparently I started a revolution, in the year since, 3 other techs left the same place for the same reason.
 
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