For those who have a FEL on their 318, are the hydraulics for the FEL run off the 2 sets of auxillary ports on the front of the tractor?
318 FEL question
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victor3ranger
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The shape and design of yours looks pretty close to the 646 except for the upright legs.
I don't want to change any of the factory build of the loader from the lift arms forward to the bucket.
As far as I can tell, all I need to do is build a new set of support legs that will clear the seat pan then make a subframe to connect under the tractor to the frame so the support legs will have something to attach to. I do like the idea of how you added the support from the rear legs up to the front of the tractor.
As for the availability of GT loaders in Okla, it would be much easier to find a hairy frog that one of these things.
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Something that you may not be aware of is the under frame bracket and the two long arms that go from it to the rear of the tractor. I used the two arms on the J 10 but since they were too short I added two pieces of 1/4 inch angle iron to them with double bolts and then used the four frame axle bolts to secure the two angle iron pieces. I let the two pieces extend on out the back for a weight platform and hitch.
I will say one thing and that is the J 10 is not even in the same universe as the JD 40 when it comes to beef and welding. I believe the little J 10 and 12's were made for the home owner who wanted to move mulch and fire wood around and maybe some gravel but not to do ground leveling and bulldozing type work. The work I did to the J 10 was much beefier than the OEM was.
I will say one thing and that is the J 10 is not even in the same universe as the JD 40 when it comes to beef and welding. I believe the little J 10 and 12's were made for the home owner who wanted to move mulch and fire wood around and maybe some gravel but not to do ground leveling and bulldozing type work. The work I did to the J 10 was much beefier than the OEM was.
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That is a pretty slick setup. I was thinking that I would need to build the sebframe so that it goes all the way to the rearend for added strength. That way it would be tied from the very front to the very back.
Mine will have the 3pt on the rear and I was thinking about building a weight box that would fit there.
I haven't measured the cylinders that are on the loader right now to get a idea which stand-alone pump to use.
Mine will have the 3pt on the rear and I was thinking about building a weight box that would fit there.
I haven't measured the cylinders that are on the loader right now to get a idea which stand-alone pump to use.
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Nick, since you have one of these 646's, do you know the size of the cylinders?
I don't want to hack up the loader, my thoughts are to remove the uprights from the lift arms then fab up new uprights that will give enough room at the bottom to fit past the fender pan then down to a subframe that is mounted to the frame.
What hacking? The subframe is specific to the individual tractor. All subframes made for a specific loader model will mount to the loader regardless of tractor individuality.
Build a new subframe, and save the old one for resale. It is one heck of a lot easier than trying to make the existing subframe fit. The only part that needs to fit is the connection between the sub and the posts.
I took a Wright Way loader from a GE ElecTrac and installed it on a MF12H with mods to the subframe. I then installed it on a MF1655 with a brand new subframe. I could have used the posts as well, but chose to make new posts with integral reservoirs. It was installed using only existing bolt holes in the tractor's frame.
There was zero hacking to the original loader or the tractor in this process. I still have the original subframe and posts, and they are in original condition, except fot the accumulation of rust from storage for 37 years.
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Tudor, I think what you did to yours is what I have in my head for this one. It didn't have any kind of subframe with it since the upright posts are what used to be part of the frame on the 646.
So I think my only option is to make new posts that will clear the fender pan like it is supposed to on the 318 which will then have to be attached to a new built subframe.
Is your subframe full length meaning from front to rear or is it from the posts to the rear?
So I think my only option is to make new posts that will clear the fender pan like it is supposed to on the 318 which will then have to be attached to a new built subframe.
Is your subframe full length meaning from front to rear or is it from the posts to the rear?
My sub goes from the rear axle to a point just behind the front axle.
U-strap around the rear axle.
![Image]()
Two bolts at the front of the sub on each side.
![Image]()
Many, many lifts made over a period of 22 years exceeded 1000 lb with that setup. It may not be pretty, but it will function most other GT's off the ground, ballast included.
U-strap around the rear axle.
Two bolts at the front of the sub on each side.
Many, many lifts made over a period of 22 years exceeded 1000 lb with that setup. It may not be pretty, but it will function most other GT's off the ground, ballast included.
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I have to agree with the beef and Rydplrs on this. I would never hack up a loader that is valuable how it is. It just kills value and ruins a piece of desirable history. If its a matter of a subframe change out and thats it, by all meants, build a new one, sell the original. My exception is here: Now that I know you ONLY have the Case loader, that changes things. The hyloaders are specific to themselves, and dont interchange with any other series of Case garden tractor, and they are not like John Deere for parts availability. If you only have the loader, it will never be complete again. Dont believe me? Get on ebay and type in Case 646 and see what results you get. I doubt its much of anything. That loader is scrap now, unless someone out there has broken theirs (which I have never heard of), so you might as well make it work for what you want.
You are the exception. I know very few people that would go through that trouble, most would hack what they have, trust me I've seen and bought a lot.
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Nick, do you know what size the cylinders are on the 646??
What has me good and puzzled after sitting beside it lastnight and looking and measuring is just how to build the new posts so they will clear the brake pedels and still be narrow enough on the top to reattach the lift arms in the facotry location.
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Making posts so that the loader arms attach to the posts at the right spot will probably be the easy part. The harder part would be making the posts so that the back end of the main cylinders attach at the right spot. Unless you mount the loader very far forward, that cylinder mount is going to be right where your brake pedals are.
It might be easier to mount this loader to something like a 455, without brake pedals.
It might be easier to mount this loader to something like a 455, without brake pedals.
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That is what I was looking at lastnight. The dang brakes are right in the way of the lower cylinder mount.
Then I looked at what it would take to rework the brakes so they are outboard and keep the post snug up against the frame on that side.:dunno:
I really don't want to widen the lift arms but that might be what has to be done, then move the attachment points for the bucket wider to match.:dunno:
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Hmmm, now that is a good question.
I will have to mull that over this afternoon when I get home and look at it.
I will have to mull that over this afternoon when I get home and look at it.
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We're it my project, I'd split the loader booms and weld in a wider cross brace to clear the 318 brake pedals. You could either keep the single dump cylinder or convert it to duals. You go monkeying with the brake pedal location and it becomes two projects, which would become three, because I'd go ahead and make it foot pedal drive, too! GT loaders are nonexistent here in OK. I wouldn't sweat one minute carving that thing up, those boys up north don't realize how good they've got it or how hard it is to find anything here. I've never even seen a case 646 for sale here in OK, let alone a JD44, or Johnson WH loader. A couple years ago I saw a clapped out Brantley on CL for an insane amount. I snapped up a kwikway in the spring and have been modding it to fit my 332.
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This would take some fortitude, but you may be able to shorten the footpads/pan and then reconfigure the big loops on the brake arms. Or make some ports in the footpad and go right through with new geometry on the brake arms. Go look at the newer machines. You can maintain the leverage but get rid of the loop. You could also narrow the brake foot pads. Maybe even go buy some (later 200/300/400/other?) of the upper foot pad (that bolts to a lower arm) and adapt the shortened loops. Jay
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I did the simple thing and just connected the two brake arms together under the foot pad and left just the inner brake pedal. Worked great and took about thirty minutes to do. I drilled a hole through the common shaft, right brake arm sleeve and the put a spring pin in it and that was it. I also found that I never used the brake pedal at all unless it was to set the parking brake. I also thought about fiddling with the foot pads but the length of the arms is fixed so if the loader is placed on the tractor as a mock up you can tell right away that it cannot go back as far as the foot pads. Mine ended up just in front of the pads and no mods were needed. I thought about all of your suggestions but believe me when you start talking about cutting the arms and doing away with the single dump ram you are talking bout big bucks and then mrbeef's theory kicks in. It would be simpler to just buy the correct one to begin with.
In the two BIG pictures below you can see the unaltered J 10 before and after the installation. The picture is a little off in that you cannot see that the foot pad and the vertical arms do not touch nor are they side by side. The arms are just in front of the pads. The distance back from the front of the 318 is fixed by the two horizontal arms and the bucket dump mechanism.
In the two BIG pictures below you can see the unaltered J 10 before and after the installation. The picture is a little off in that you cannot see that the foot pad and the vertical arms do not touch nor are they side by side. The arms are just in front of the pads. The distance back from the front of the 318 is fixed by the two horizontal arms and the bucket dump mechanism.
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Hey Kris, the northern members have no idea how good they got it. I thought about doing what you are saying as well. If I did I would keep the single point on the bucket. It is SO dang hot right now that I don't want to get out and start cutting and welding just yet. I will have to take the cylinders off and have them gone thru when I figure out which direction to go with it.
Good to see another Okie on here.
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You woldn't happen to have any pictures of the brake mod you are talking about would you?
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