What is REALLY the best oil to use??

G-1 · Aug 9, 2009

amf1414 said:
my new pressure washer calls for 5w20 full syn. and that is right off the briggs website

I saw that. Seems like it may be a good choice. They also recommend 30HD and 10W30 non-synthetic. For 10W30, they point out that increased oil consumption may occur above 80° F. So, since the oil change interval is not increased for synthetic it comes down to whether any benefit of the synthetic justifies the added cost. We do hear lots of good things about synthetics, so maybe it is worth it.

PristineGardens · Aug 9, 2009

Not looked in my owners manuals for couple of years since I kitted myself out...SAE 30 is what the engines came with.

Since then just been using standard 'Mower Oil', as it says on the packet (ALM Mower oil if you were wondering what brand), which doesnt have an oil weight listed on the back of it. Not the most expensive of oil on the market...but had no problems using my machines commercially with it for the last 12 months.

So, just outa interest, what could go wrong if the wrong weight oil is used? Sure I read somwhere that it can cause everything to get too hot, messing up the carb and making the fuel vapourise before it gets burnt in the engine?? So miss-firing etc.

Any other more terminal prob's?

cvm · Aug 11, 2009

Let’s bring into this discussion something that always seems to be missing in this controversy. Are engine manufacturers that recommend 30HD oil also saying that the oil should be for outdoor power equipment (meaning oil for air-cooled engines)? I’ve found small engine oil; it is $4-5 for a 48oz bottle.

G-1 · Aug 13, 2009

cvm said:
Let’s bring into this discussion something that always seems to be missing in this controversy. Are engine manufacturers that recommend 30HD oil also saying that the oil should be for outdoor power equipment (meaning oil for air-cooled engines)? I’ve found small engine oil; it is $4-5 for a 48oz bottle.

cvm, at least for mower type engines, if the manufacturer specifies 30HD they also specify a service class (like SF or SG, etc.). There should be no difference between dino oils of the same viscosity and service class if they are properly manufactured. I think we can trust the major brands. Those high priced 48 oz. packages and the like are not a good buy, in my opinion.

G-1 · Aug 14, 2009

I started this thread looking for some input on my oil use strategy. Many of you guys took the time to provide input and I thank you for it. :thanku:
The main problem with choosing the right oil is getting the correct information. Because the technology of both oil and engines has changed so much in recent years, what was right in the past may not be right now. Owners Manuals can get outdated; they can also simply be incorrect. The problem I was having was a direct result of those two things. Based on new information since my original post, here is a simplified new strategy:

1. Follow the engine manufacturer's recommendation, but be proactive about getting the latest recommendation. You cannot assume the owners manual information will not change. Below are some links to mfg. sites where oil usage is specified.

2. Be alert to whether recommendations pass the "common sense" test and if you think there is a problem, try to get better information. Here are two examples just from my own experience; I'm sure there are more examples.

a. Everything I could find on my Kohler Command 20 said that 30HD should not be used; only multi-viscosity oils were allowed. My experience with using 10W30 in a Kohler Magnum 20, for which 30HD was the preferred oil above freezing, told me that I did not want to use a multi-viscosity oil in the Command. I suspected that Kohler was trying to be certain that 30HD was not used in cold temps and since I was planning on only using it in the summer, I used 30HD. I now know that the problem with 30HD was related to the hydraulic lifters not bleeding off sufficiently in cold weather resulting in bent push rods. And Kohler has now updated the recommendation to allow 30HD use above 50° F. :congrats:

b. I recently did some work on a John Deere 115 lawn tractor with a Briggs engine. The JD owners manual says to use multi-viscosity oil and does not authorize 30HD at all. Since I know that 30HD is a better oil for summer use than any multi-viscosity dino oil, I'm already suspicious. And since I also know Briggs usually recommends 30HD in their engines of this type, the JD recommendation does not pass the "common sense" test. This tractor was not my own and I did not end up changing the oil. If I were to change the oil, I would be trying to find out what's up with this.

There is a lot of wrong information floating around these days. I think we need to be careful what we believe. (Just as a little side point, think about this: What is the truth about ethanol and your engine?

)

OK, here are some links with oil recommendation info: (Could not find Kawasaki mfg. site)
Kohler: http://review.engines2008.kohler.com/maintenance/faqs.htm
Briggs: http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=1419
Tecumseh: http://www.tecumsehpower.com/CustomerService/BSI.pdf

:fing02:

GrassMaster · Aug 16, 2009

Ethanol is **** on 2-cycle engines, that is for sure.

saskman49 · Aug 16, 2009

Tractor-Holic said:
Ok--next question...what do you guys put in a 40 year old cast iron engine,that runs well,but blows smoke out of the breather,or out the exhaust some due to years of wear??...

Personally,I use 15W-40 or SAE 30W in most all my small engines,the older ones --if they smoke ,I add some Lucas or Motor-Medic...a few old Briggs push mowers I rescued from the dump smoked SO badly,I put 75% Lucas and 25% oil,and though they spun over like the crankcase was full of grease,not oil,they ran great and barely smoked at all..but forget starting them beow 40 degrees!..

I find 15W-40 diesel oil the one thats consumed the slowest on any "oil burner" I have for some reason,even SAE 30 or 40 or 20W-50 doesn't seen to take as long to be "burned up" as the 15W-40 does..must have a higher flash point..
I tried using "Grade 70" Amalie we sold at one parts store that was popular with Harley owners,but I found it was too "stiff" when starting it cold,unless it was 80 degrees out you had a hard time getting a engine started with that in it--once it was running though,it seemed to reduce smoking very well..If they made a thicker straight weight synthetic oil,I bet it would reduce oil burning a great deal..
I've seen some new stuff thats colorless sold as a "stop smoke" oil,its very costly,but I have seen it work on several cars that never would have passed for a sticker due to visible smoking..

I use 50Wt in my old horz opposed twin Briggs that has bad valve guides as it loves to suck the oil into the chambers under load and when throttling up. It needs a topup with every tank of gas and is worse when I use lighter weights of oil. I have the guides and tools but no time to do the work, also have 2 spare engines but see last statement.. I use synthetic Valvoline (not that it matters just the brand I happened to pick) in any of my gassers that run it the winter here -40 is not uncommon. I also use the synthetic in my Hemi for the same reasons that it has synthetic in every spot there is lubricant again we see -40. My 2320 diesel is still running breakin oil for another 40 hrs but will then see synthetic for the same reason as it is the primary snow mover..

Also I change the oil in all my small engines 1: in the spring after sitting all winter, 2: at 25hrs during active season 3: In the fall prior to storage or winter use. I realize on some things they get changed with no use at all after winter storage but really a couple liters of oil even synthetic is cheap insurance.

G-1 · Aug 18, 2009

Tractor-Holic said:
Ok--next question...what do you guys put in a 40 year old cast iron engine,that runs well,but blows smoke out of the breather,or out the exhaust some due to years of wear??...

Personally,I use 15W-40 or SAE 30W in most all my small engines,the older ones --if they smoke ,I add some Lucas or Motor-Medic...a few old Briggs push mowers I rescued from the dump smoked SO badly,I put 75% Lucas and 25% oil,and though they spun over like the crankcase was full of grease,not oil,they ran great and barely smoked at all..but forget starting them beow 40 degrees!..

I find 15W-40 diesel oil the one thats consumed the slowest on any "oil burner" I have for some reason,even SAE 30 or 40 or 20W-50 doesn't seen to take as long to be "burned up" as the 15W-40 does..must have a higher flash point..
I tried using "Grade 70" Amalie we sold at one parts store that was popular with Harley owners,but I found it was too "stiff" when starting it cold,unless it was 80 degrees out you had a hard time getting a engine started with that in it--once it was running though,it seemed to reduce smoking very well..If they made a thicker straight weight synthetic oil,I bet it would reduce oil burning a great deal..I've seen some new stuff thats colorless sold as a "stop smoke" oil,its very costly,but I have seen it work on several cars that never would have passed for a sticker due to visible smoking..

Tractor-Holic, I just got back from a trip to Wally-World where I looked over their oil selection. Could hardly believe my eyes! They have more brands and more varieties than seems even reasonable. I wonder where all this stuff is really coming from? The prices seem to be getting very competitive with dino oils.

I'm wondering if a synthetic with a high top number, like 5W50, would be as good a choice in an engine which tends to burn oil as a straight viscosity synthetic (if you could get it). If I understand it right, the thinner behavior of the low number would only stick around until operating temp was reached. Then, the upper number viscosity would be in play and furthermore the oil would maintain that viscosity much longer than a dino oil of the same grade (in this case 5W50). One thing I have been wondering about, however, is the subject of leaks. Newer engines might be OK, but who needs a bunch of oil drips showing up on an older engine? :bonk:

mark g · Aug 20, 2009

My son-in-law works for Warren Distribution,a company that produces engine oil for several different clients-Wal-mart,Tractor Supply,PepBoys,Advance,Autozone,and others.All the base(oil) is delivered by railcar tankcars,as well as by barge.This (stock) is then delivered
to the blending department where wear additives as well as detergents,etc are added per customer specs.(see where i'm going with this?)In another part of the facility(SEPARATED BY A CONCRETE BLOCK WALL),Castrol GTX is produced.My SIL also said the blenders told him that Castrol's specs were tighter than the other brands-that's not to say the other oil is not good-not at all,just that CASTROL oil tolerances were more stringent.Before he worked there,I would not even consider a private label oil,now I don't give it a second thought.Same deal at the plant I retired from,we made pool bleach as one of our products.A client would order,say 10,000 pails of private label pool bleach,it all came out of the same silo,just had a different label on the pail,but sill 65% bleach 35% inert product-sorry for the long post,but thought this info might be of benefit

G-1 · Aug 20, 2009

mark g said:
My son-in-law works for Warren Distribution,a company that produces engine oil for several different clients-Wal-mart,Tractor Supply,PepBoys,Advance,Autozone,and others.All the base(oil) is delivered by railcar tankcars,as well as by barge.This (stock) is then delivered
to the blending department where wear additives as well as detergents,etc are added per customer specs.(see where i'm going with this?)In another part of the facility(SEPARATED BY A CONCRETE BLOCK WALL),Castrol GTX is produced.My SIL also said the blenders told him that Castrol's specs were tighter than the other brands-that's not to say the other oil is not good-not at all,just that CASTROL oil tolerances were more stringent.Before he worked there,I would not even consider a private label oil,now I don't give it a second thought.Same deal at the plant I retired from,we made pool bleach as one of our products.A client would order,say 10,000 pails of private label pool bleach,it all came out of the same silo,just had a different label on the pail,but sill 65% bleach 35% inert product-sorry for the long post,but thought this info might be of benefit

Very interesting! The more we can find out about what we are buying, the better. There are lots of smoke and mirrors in today's marketplace!

:thanku:

Tractor-Holic · Aug 20, 2009

Just like there is only a few major battery manufacturers that make "everyones" batteries,not hundreds of different ones as they would like us to believe..you can buy a "Die-Hard" at Sears and pay 80 bucks,and get the same battery elsewhere with a different color case and labeling for 50 bucks..brand loyalty can be expensive,and gain you nothing!..

Paul J · Aug 20, 2009

This discussion reminds me of when my uncle worked at a tomato canning factory. One day someone told him that they would never drink Stokes, (Name of the plant), brand tomato juice, they only drink Stokleys! I won't comment on his remarks.

He took us through the plant one day and showed us how the different brands of juice was made there. It was all done on the labeling machine. Same juice coming out of the same tanks going into the same cans. When they finished the, Yes, Campbells run, they switched the labels and started producing another brand, including Stokleys! They made about seven brands there.

What is REALLY the best oil to use??

G-1

PristineGardens

cvm

G-1

G-1

GrassMaster

saskman49

G-1

mark g

G-1

Tractor-Holic

Paul J

Top Contributors this Month

Recommended Communities