What Would You Pay for a 140

Natispotatis · Jun 13, 2014

I'm considering picking up a JD140 as a second tractor. I really like the round headlights and the look. There's one posted for $750 with this description: "140 was running when parked, needs gas and battery. Mower deck with mower inside stored all its life. Hydraulic lift, great tires, 750.00 or best offer. H1." It looks dusty but complete. Hard to tell from the pic. Gonna see if I can run out there with a trailer, battery and a compression tester.

Rydplrs · Jun 13, 2014

You cannot compression test a kohler k series engine. Price is high for my area too

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wsar10 · Jun 13, 2014

Locally (central PA) I see them listed for $500 ish...... I PERSONALLY have never tried to buy one or looked at one in person, but I watch these old tractors that come up for sale to see what they list for. Cant hear it run.....I would say $750 is a bit high.

Tony bachler · Jun 13, 2014

. Compression is done on the Kohler, By turning engine Backwards

Natispotatis · Jun 13, 2014

Ahh, okay. He said he had no doubt it would fire up with new gas, and that he didn't get it running because it would be easier to steal sitting by the side of the road. Maybe I'll run out there with some cash, a battery and gas and see if it'll fire.

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Dave88LX · Jun 13, 2014

What's with the Kohler that you can't do a compression test the normal way?

Rydplrs · Jun 13, 2014

a compression release valve to help it start easier.

the exhaust valve opens just a touch on the compression stroke at low RPM's

jhon · Jun 13, 2014

Dave88LX said:
What's with the Kohler that you can't do a compression test the normal way?

German's:sidelaugh

If I was going to sell a riding mower that ran, I would have it running.
I would be suspicious.

bkidder · Jun 13, 2014

I would think for 750 it should at least run I'd ask the guy if you can put some gas in it and try and fire it up if he says no than you know something's up. good luck love the 140's always wanted one

miller17636 · Jun 13, 2014

To me that is a little high for an h-1. Good deal for an h3. $500.00 is what I would pay if it is in good shape. Pics would help me know for sure, got any??

Diesel332 · Jun 13, 2014

Also bring a feeler gauge and some needle nose pliers to check the point and plug gaps. To compression test it, remove the fuel line from the carb, plug, and plug wire. Then turn the key to run(NOT Start), flip the PTO switch on, and wrap a rope around the PTO pulley. Pull it the opposite direction the starter turns the motor and read the gauge like normal.

UrbanTractor · Jun 13, 2014

It's tricky to give a price without knowing a lot more info. In addition to questions about the condition and whether the engine works, there were so many changes made to the 140 over the course of its production run, that the tractor you are considering might be a smoking hot deal or way over-priced.

H1s generally command less than H3s. But if you are talking about a 1973 or 74 H1 in outstanding condition, then the asking price would be darn good. Most folks value an H3 much higher, but if you plan to put an FEL on it and use it as your dedicated loader machine, then a 73 or 74 H1 is an ideal machine because of certain features it has that were not present on earlier H1s.

That's just an example of why the answer is not cut and dry.

Natispotatis · Jun 13, 2014

Hmmm. Okay maybe I'll try to get more info out of him like the serial number. I might just pass. Thanks.

mrbeef · Jun 13, 2014

I would pass... If the seller does not even want to bother getting it started I would offer 350-400 (if complete) as a non-runner. If he balks at that I would explain you have no idea the health of the engine or hydro.... Tell him to start it if it is that easy... If it runs say 550 tops.... So personally I would not waste my time or breath dealing with the seller.....

Like UT said we need a few more specifics to even give a firmer price. For any pictures?

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Rydplrs · Jun 13, 2014

I would only make an offer that's contigant on driving onto your trailer. I use that one if there is a seller like that that has something i really really want. If Its just a nice to have i would run away and never look back. The theft answer is bs bs bs. He is hiding something. Bring a little oil and hydro/atf. And a key if you go, but i would stay clear.

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Leinie · Jun 13, 2014

I wouldn't do anything more than turn the key to start it. It's either a runner or it's not. If you get it running, he won't need to take your low offer because you just fixed it for him.
For a non runner, it's overpriced by 4-5 hundred.
For a runner, it's not a terrible price for a late model , It's a few hundred to much for an early model.

UrbanTractor · Jun 13, 2014

Natispotatis said:
Hmmm. Okay maybe I'll try to get more info out of him like the serial number. I might just pass. Thanks.

140s are a bit tricky -- they aren't all the same even though they have the same model #. If you are interested in one, it pays to do some background research. Here's something I typed up a while back with some basic info - by no means definitive but it might be of help to you:

The 140 was in production from 1968 through 1974. Along the way many changes, some significant and obvious, others less so, were made. Almost every year, something was improved on them, and the cumulative effect of the big improvements/changes settled in by 1972 on the H-3 models. So any model H3 1972 or later, and H1 1973 or later, has most of the beneficial changes that were made.

That is not to say the pre-72 tractors are bad. Definitely not. They are also great trators! It's just that the "goodies" that really improved the platform are all in place by '72. However, there is a caveat: A 1972 H1 actually is somewhat less desirable in many respects to earlier and later H1s. More later.

Some highlights of important changes made:

-1968, first year of production, 12 hp engine, no steering brakes

- 1969, engine hp was increased to 14 hp from 12 hp
- 1969, true "H3" was added (as opposed to a splitter to create three spools from two spools)
- 1969, steering brakes were added

- 1971, new hydrostatic transmission was sourced (previous transmission is much harder to find parts)
- 1971, beefier rear axle
- 1971, change from disc brakes to more reliable drum brakes

- 1972, "engine disconnect" feature dropped from H1 models
- 1972, change from 3/4" to beefier 1" front axle spindles for more load carrying capability
- 1972, front wheel bearings changed to cassette style, making it easier to remove front wheels
- 1972, new rear axles and hubs to accomodate switch to inboard seals on the rear axle seals (changed from outboard style)
- 1972, watered-down H1 version lacking steering brakes, 3PH capability, no rear hydro ports option, etc (the 1972 H1 models were very similar to the short-lived Model 120, just with a 14 hp engine.)

-1973, "engine disconnect" feature dropped from H3 models (engine disconnect allowed the shaft driving the transmission to be disconnected from the engine, by depressing the left pedal. In this way, the engine can be run without powering the transmission.)
- 1973 H1 returns to "normal" and has same features as H3, only with single-spool hydraulics
- 1974 last year of production H1/H3

wsar10 · Jun 13, 2014

FWIW ;

http://york.craigslist.org/grd/4499850133.html

Rydplrs · Jun 13, 2014

I need to bookmark this now for that summary. Lennie that's why you have an agreement. When it fires and test and load without stopping then hand over the cash and shake their hand. Even a dirtbag has a hard time not honoring their word. I wouldn't work hard, but bring a clean temporary tank to use instead of the stock one incase it full of water. That's an easy fix at home. I bought 2 tractors that way this spring.

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ggsteve · Jun 13, 2014

If it's close by, in fair shape and you can drive it offer $500. Two more things to check are steering slop (Both of mine have a lot) and a tendency for the hydro drive lever to return to neutral while driving.

In terms of interest in H1's I'll offer this. I bought my H1 in very good original condition with full manuals and extra belts, etc. for $450 and I was happy about that, but it took a few days for it to sell. An H3 near me in much worse shape but priced at $350 (same year) sold in an hour.

What Would You Pay for a 140

Natispotatis

Rydplrs

wsar10

Tony bachler

Natispotatis

Dave88LX

Rydplrs

jhon

bkidder

miller17636

Diesel332

UrbanTractor

Natispotatis

mrbeef

Rydplrs

Leinie

UrbanTractor

wsar10

Rydplrs

ggsteve

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