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rustyoldjunk

· ROJ
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i getting tired of dragging old tractors in with tires loaded with calcium chloride and ruined wheels.:Disgus: its fine for those guys that dont value these old tractors,use them and abuse them then scrap them but for guys like myself that like to drag them in to refurbish and have to use and look at its a pita.i love the antique/vintage machines so thats what i try to haul in mostly.its bad enough to get the ones in with 12 inch rears but i have brought in several lately with 15 inch rear wheels that are ruined from calcium chloride and those wheels can be tough to come by....havent these guys heard of rv antifreeze or windshield washer fluid?...or wheel weights...as if they care:Disgus: ....
 
I about got run over by a David Bradley walk behind when I first unloaded it. backing it down 6 foot ramps not knowing that its tires were filled was not good. The only thing that kept me upright was the cultivator pushing on one leg. The other leg was too busy hoping down the ramp. I use longer ramps and check the tire weight before I unload them.
 
I must assume you are talking about tubeless tires since tubes should contain the corrosive substance. Calcium chloride is heavier than WWF.
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"should contain the corrosive substance":ROF

There are plenty of rims that have had repair because of calcium chloride long before tubeless tires were even heard of on tractors.
 
I have a Case 430 farm tractor with a Fisher snowplow that I use to push snow with in the winter.

I put Calcium cloride in about 15 years ago when I installed new tires - bad idea. Over the last several years I could see my valve stems deteriorate, these wheels (I forget what they call them) are rather large and are adjustable (the outer section can spin independantly of the center hub section so as to have a wider or narrower track/depth).

Well I knew these would not be cheap to replace and wanted to save them while I could, so this summer I tried to drain them by removing the valve stem, no luck, so I took compressed air and blew the stem out so as to remove them - and wouldn't you know the valve stems just fell off. I took them in and they dismounted the tires and sent them to the blaster just to have the blaster send them back saying the holes for the stems would have to be repaired, so I ground the holes bigger and welded washers in the larger holes. I'm just now getting them back on the tractor.

They now use beet juice, but I decided not to reload them for now, and I have chains so I will see how that works out. Rusty, with these older machines your kinda stuck - C.C. is what they used back then, I have some Case wheels off a 446 that have to go in next
 
Try loading a loaded 13.6/12/28" Ford 600 rear tire into your pickup bed ALONE,and get back to me,and tell me how YOUR back feels after that!..
I never thought I could even do it with help,but I had none,and had to roll that 600 lb monster up the ramps alone!..now any "garden tractor" feels like a feather compared to that!..

I always had a crane on my flatbed truck body,I hauled a lot of stuff home with that thing no one else could lift--also used it to JUNK many things I never should have dragged home with it too though!..I really miss having that thing,I had to let a few nice "freebie" tractors go by because there was no way I could load them manually with my back the way it is now!..

I used anti-freeze in my tires, local junkyards were giving "recycled" anti-freeze away free for a few years,so many guys with tractors and backhoe/loaders used that instead of calcuim..I hate calcium,all it does is ruin rims and kill anything you spill it near!..I have a 10' "dead zone" in my back woods where my Ford 600's tire got puntured 15 years ago--nothing has ever grown back except weeds!..a 15' high pine tree died within a week of being poisoned,it dried up and was like balsa wood,and broke off when I leaned against it like it had been dead 10 years!..

Rusty Old Junk,your aware some tractors with lug style hubs like cars in the rear. are often the same 5 lug,4.5" bolt circle as older Ford and Chrysler rims,and many newer FWD cars ,arent you?..some use only 3 lugs out of the 5,but car rims still fit and work great..others with 4 lugs are a 4" bolt pattern ,same as 8" or 12" boat trailer rims use,or old Vega/Monza and Chevettes used (they were 13" though)...so you should be able to get rims cheap at a junkyard..

I've cut the original centers out of calcuim rotted rims,and welded them into some car rims the same diameter before..the fact most tractors wont go over 7 mph means it isn't real critical if you get things a bit off
"dead center"!..I've made "dualie" rears by welding two space saver spare rims together before too..

Robert
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
LLigetfa, what Maybar said,nope i mean with tubes too.over time the fluid weeps out and rots the wheels.Tractor-Holic i am aware of that but i mostly prefer the original look of these old tractors and try to keep most of them that way.i agree im stuck Caseman,i just wanted to vent alittle lol.im glad you were able to save yours Ingersoll444.
 
My little Ford came new with calcium in the rear, with tubes. Some how they leaked and it got inside the wheel. It totally rotted out the steel around the stem. It also totally rotted the brass part of the stem! I replaced the wheels, tubes and bought wheel weights. I thought if that wasn't enough weight I would try RV antifreeze.
 
The B 80 WH I'm fixing now has something in the tires . I can feel it chugging around in there. Do I want to find out what it is? Do I just depress the valve and see what comes out?:00000062: Do I wear eye protection?
 
If you want to put something in your rear tires put tire grade methanol and water mixture in them and they are much less corrosive on your wheels. Now for finding out whats inside of your wheels currently depress your valve stem and look at it if its green red or blue its prolly anti freeze or washer fluid if its clear or brown taste it:drunkie: and if it is salty its calcium if its watery its methanol.
 
Hello,
I don't want to hijack your post but it's related. I have calcium in the tires on my tractor (came with the tractor, I didn't know better honest:) and the rims are rusting. I drained one out so far and refilled with plain water until I can get the tires off and the rims cleaned up. I would like to neutralize the calcium so it doesn't continue to damage the rims. Is there something I can add or just flush them a few times with plain water? It lives in the garage so freezing is not a problem. I have a pretty good setup to pump the water in and out easily so it's not too bad to cycle a fill in and out through the valve. Any suggestions?

Steve
 
I'm new here and dont know to much about old tractors but being from the northeast and seeing what salt did to car bodies and chassis, why would anyone put a corrosive chemical inside a tire where all it would do is wear down both the rubber and steel from a chemical breakdown and an abrassive breakdown. Not pinging on anyone, just inquiring.
 
Hello,
I don't want to hijack your post but it's related. I have calcium in the tires on my tractor (came with the tractor, I didn't know better honest:) and the rims are rusting. I drained one out so far and refilled with plain water until I can get the tires off and the rims cleaned up. I would like to neutralize the calcium so it doesn't continue to damage the rims. Is there something I can add or just flush them a few times with plain water? It lives in the garage so freezing is not a problem. I have a pretty good setup to pump the water in and out easily so it's not too bad to cycle a fill in and out through the valve. Any suggestions?

Steve
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Until you can get them off cleaned and painted you might consider adding a rust inhibitor after you flush a couple of times. Most automotive stores should have it since it's been used in cooling systems for decades.

Freezing isn't a problem if you don't drive it frozen.
 
I'm new here and dont know to much about old tractors but being from the northeast and seeing what salt did to car bodies and chassis, why would anyone put a corrosive chemical inside a tire where all it would do is wear down both the rubber and steel from a chemical breakdown and an abrassive breakdown. Not pinging on anyone, just inquiring.
Because it's cheap weight! :Disgus:

Pesonally, I hate the stuff. I'll use cast Iron any day! ~~ grnspot110
 
Glad I joined this forum! I was searching how to install CC when I found this thread. The MANUAL for my tractor says to use CC so that's where I WAS headed. Has anyone ever used Rimguard that can give any insight on it?
Thanks!
 
I'm new here and dont know to much about old tractors but being from the northeast and seeing what salt did to car bodies and chassis, why would anyone put a corrosive chemical inside a tire where all it would do is wear down both the rubber and steel from a chemical breakdown and an abrassive breakdown. Not pinging on anyone, just inquiring.
Tires - 26x12-12 = 38 lb for the tire and rim.

80% fill with 5% calcium chloride = 200 lb CaCl, tire, and rim.

80% fill with AgriLim (similar density and properties to plumbing antifreeze) = 149 lb AgriLim, tire, and rim.

The cost is relatively close to the same, $50 for CaCl 16 years ago and $90 for AgriLim last fall, $3.25 per gallon. If you have a FEL, weight is king, even at the price of new rims every 12 years.

RimGuard and AgriLim are the new kids on the block. My SCUT came with RimGuard and I never weighed the tires or checked the fill level, and I tried AgriLim for my GT.

RimGuard from now on. If I'm going to add weight, I get serious about it!
 
Glad I joined this forum! I was searching how to install CC when I found this thread. The MANUAL for my tractor says to use CC so that's where I WAS headed. Has anyone ever used Rimguard that can give any insight on it?
Thanks!
Like Tudor said...Rimguard...and if you have a real good AG tire service (in VT it's Rouse...:)) in your area...they'll even clean up old CC loaded rims when they refill them with Rimguard...:)

I've got it in my 855 and 5055E...my 2640 is unloaded because it is my haying tractor and I don't need to compress my hay fields more than necessary...;)
 
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