ive recently added a 3 point hitch to the 318 i own . now im building a rear blade for the tractor also, my question is can someone help me out , id like to keep the two levers that are existing on the tractor for the snowblower but would like to have 2 other levers for the blade to go up and down and side to side,, is this possible and can someone help me out with the hydraulics on board
hydraulic question on a 318
JasonMiller
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ive recently added a 3 point hitch to the 318 i own . now im building a rear blade for the tractor also, my question is can someone help me out , id like to keep the two levers that are existing on the tractor for the snowblower but would like to have 2 other levers for the blade to go up and down and side to side,, is this possible and can someone help me out with the hydraulics on board
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Some other folks might be more helpful than I but I think if you want that type set up another H2 valve somewhere on the fender pan would be the ticket. The run new lines to the rear. Although the blade will go up and down via the rockshaft so you should only need 1 more hydro circuit. Check out http://www.aux-hyd.com/cart/upload/
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Not real feasable imo. while you could do that, but, you would have to replumb the 3pt/deck rockshaft cylinder as it is hooked into and run the left front hydraulic lines also.
You could put in a H3 and replumb the rockshaft cylinder to the 3rd lever, but you would have to move the blade side to side manually or add a electric actuator to move it. Still would involve some line replumbing.
You could put in a H3 and replumb the rockshaft cylinder to the 3rd lever, but you would have to move the blade side to side manually or add a electric actuator to move it. Still would involve some line replumbing.
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I installed an H2 in the fender of my 400 and just plumbed it downstream from the H3. One lever operates the rockshaft now dedicated to the 3PH. The other operates the deck lift. I added a new cylinder for the deck so the 3PH and the deck are independent. The original H3 is now available as all auxiliary ports for a future loader/grapple/rear ports. Moving the plumbing from the rockshaft cylinder to the new H2 valve was easy because they were already hoses rather than lines. I had to put plugs on the ports of the H3 valve until I plumb those ports to some quick disconnects later. Jay
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so im thinking of doing the same as grandpa jay , now where would i get a hydraulic levers like u have. and also do those take a return and pressure hose to go to them.. id like to have that dedicated to the rear of the tractor.
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I plumbed from the out (byd) port of the original H3 to the pressure port of the fender mounted H2. Then back out of the H2 to the in port of the power steering valve-which ends up (after going through the cooler) back to the tank (transmission).
I made the handles out of 5/16" stainless rod by threading the ends, finding some knobs, and giving them that artistic bend. The valve I used was set up for a 5/16" female thread.
The hardest part was getting the mounting bracket just right to fit under the fender. Of course, I complicated matters by adding the deck lift cylinder as part of the H2 valve bracket. Jay
I made the handles out of 5/16" stainless rod by threading the ends, finding some knobs, and giving them that artistic bend. The valve I used was set up for a 5/16" female thread.
The hardest part was getting the mounting bracket just right to fit under the fender. Of course, I complicated matters by adding the deck lift cylinder as part of the H2 valve bracket. Jay
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i was thinking of doing the same as u did but i was going to tee into the supply that goes to the hydraulic levers on the tractor. plumb over to a valve and also doing the same for the return, where about did u find a nice dual hydraulic valve like u have
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I found this valve looking at hydraulic valves on ebay. It is off a sand trap rake. The controls were headed the right direction (upside down from standard spool valves) and it had a reasonable chance of having compatible flow rates. It didn't have a lot of specifications but it appeared to be open center so I took a chance for $25. It works fine. The onboard hydraulic systems on our garden tractors are pretty modest with fairly low flow rates (maybe around 4 gpm at most) and the pressures run less than 1000 psi. Most hydraulic components seem to be rated to handle pressures considerably higher than that.
I don't think you can tee from the pump. You need to run open center valves in series. There are lots of threads on hydraulic circuits. Jay
I don't think you can tee from the pump. You need to run open center valves in series. There are lots of threads on hydraulic circuits. Jay
Tee's on pressure lines off of pumps are bad news. Nothing will work since the fluid will take the path of least resistance, through the unused valve set.
Grandpajay has the circuitry perfect. The flow rate on that hydro's charge pump is up to 3 gpm and available pressure is between 700 and 1000 psi, depending on the relief valve setting.
An alternative to the location that grandpajay used is to turn the valve set around so the controls come through the fender at the front corner. This places the valve set slightly ahead of the top of the tire and leaves a bit more space for the plumbing.
Before someone else brings up the topic of power beyond capability for the valves, the relief is built into the pump and protects the additional circuits without risk of damage from additive pressures. A power beyond kit is not required in this situation.
Grandpajay has the circuitry perfect. The flow rate on that hydro's charge pump is up to 3 gpm and available pressure is between 700 and 1000 psi, depending on the relief valve setting.
An alternative to the location that grandpajay used is to turn the valve set around so the controls come through the fender at the front corner. This places the valve set slightly ahead of the top of the tire and leaves a bit more space for the plumbing.
Before someone else brings up the topic of power beyond capability for the valves, the relief is built into the pump and protects the additional circuits without risk of damage from additive pressures. A power beyond kit is not required in this situation.
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so guys im getting what everyone is saying where to put the tee's in the line that they should not go in the lines comming from the pump. im lost on where they should go. does anyone have better explannation on this for me thanks
From the pump to the first valve set as it is now. The return line from the first valve set will go to the second valve set. The return from the second valve set goes back to the return port on the hydro.
It's a series circuit, no "T"s. If it helps you understand, draw a circle and place a square on it at 6 oclock for the reservoir, a triangle for the pump at 9 oclock, and a pair of hash marks at 12 oclock and another pair at 3 oclock to represent each of the 2 valve sets. Fluid flow is clockwise from the reservoir, through each component, and back to to the reservoir.
It's a series circuit, no "T"s. If it helps you understand, draw a circle and place a square on it at 6 oclock for the reservoir, a triangle for the pump at 9 oclock, and a pair of hash marks at 12 oclock and another pair at 3 oclock to represent each of the 2 valve sets. Fluid flow is clockwise from the reservoir, through each component, and back to to the reservoir.
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I had a Wonderfull machine. 285; The only problem. On one fender was the deck adjustment You had to crawl over the stupid thing Sticking up there; To get On or Of the seat/tractor and it was when the tractor was in a position that you couldn't exit the other side;;; NO controls on the fenders; Life is good.
:Stop: Don't buy a SCUT! Lots of levers on both fenders. You learn to be carefull. :hide:
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I'm still a little confused. Went out and checked her out tonight and what I see is there is one valve bodie. And there is one hose that goes from the pump to the bodie and a return and then there is 4 hard lines going to the front hydro ports and also there is 2 lines going to the hydraulic steering and they both say return and line. I was gonna tee into them and from what I'm seeing is ur saying no tee
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Absolutely no tees, or it won't work.
The return for one component becomes the line for the next component in the circuit all the way through until the last component where the return actually does go to the reservoir.
Here's an experimental demonstration that you can do. Put a tee on the end of a garden hose. Attach another garden hose to each side of the tee and leave the other ends of the hoses open (no nozzle). Turn on the water and put your thumb over the end of one of the hoses to squirt your wife 10' away. Don't worry, she won't banish you to the dog house with moldy bread for supper... because the water won't reach her. Instead of forming a nice long stream, it'll dribble out of the hose in your hand and all the rest of the water will go out the other open ended hose with slightly more force due to the doubled flow.
That's why tees don't work on pressure lines in an open center hydraulic system. Every component has a return line (the open ended garden hose) and if you put a tee in the pressure line, you also have to tee a pair of return lines. As soon as you actuate one valve, the fluid goes through the other valve where it has a free path back to tank. Like some people, the fluid will only do work if it has no alternative.
The return for one component becomes the line for the next component in the circuit all the way through until the last component where the return actually does go to the reservoir.
Here's an experimental demonstration that you can do. Put a tee on the end of a garden hose. Attach another garden hose to each side of the tee and leave the other ends of the hoses open (no nozzle). Turn on the water and put your thumb over the end of one of the hoses to squirt your wife 10' away. Don't worry, she won't banish you to the dog house with moldy bread for supper... because the water won't reach her. Instead of forming a nice long stream, it'll dribble out of the hose in your hand and all the rest of the water will go out the other open ended hose with slightly more force due to the doubled flow.
That's why tees don't work on pressure lines in an open center hydraulic system. Every component has a return line (the open ended garden hose) and if you put a tee in the pressure line, you also have to tee a pair of return lines. As soon as you actuate one valve, the fluid goes through the other valve where it has a free path back to tank. Like some people, the fluid will only do work if it has no alternative.
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So could I take the pressure line of the power steering and send it down to the new valve and the return onto the spot where I have removed the previous line
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