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This is last straw for apart carb

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Milwaukee

· Dan
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3,954 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was so mad it leak around gasket but gasket was new. It run so bad and it hard to adjust speed due vacuum leak. I did apart that carb 4 times.:Disgus:

It was fine until my teacher put in carb cleaner for overnight it was look shiny but when put on engine it leak around new gasket. My carb is look exact to this but can't afford for new one it cost 128 dollars. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290143290554&ssPageName=ADME:L:DBS:UK:11


And JWC3232 told me that try put new gasket or try 2 gaskets for that. Or should I try Seal All paste it say seals bonds insulates waterproofs and it weather resistant. It say not affected by gasoline or oil.

I just want engine work good but not want hear roar or bang or bog when cut tall grass.
 
#2 ·
I don't see how carb cleaner by itself could damage the mating surfaces. It could be that the new gasket is damaged. You might try to get some gasket material and make yourself another one. Make sure you tighten the bolts evenly. I would not suggest using a liquid sealer because small bits of it coming loose could cause the carb not to work properly.
 
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#3 ·
Dan,

I have seen a few instances where carb's come off and go back on without sealing completely. Nearly always the gasket takes up for surfaces that are not machined perfectly flat, or where there may be some distortion on the intake or carb base.

If you're sure that after four attempts that the base gasket is still good...try a thin coat of Dykem, India ink or a paint pen on the intake, assemble snugly and remove immediately with 'OUT' the gasket and it should show you how much (in any) the mating surfaces are off static contact.

You should see color on both flat surfaces...or see where there is no color and discover the mating surfaces are no longer flat enough for a good seal.

If the distortion is obvious, you can lap the carb base on 400 or 600 grit wet or dry paper on top of a perfectly flat piece of steel, using a very light oil or kerosene, until the surface is all the same shinny New aluminum color..and reassemble with the gasket.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I was surprise to see nick on surface of carb look i need find way to make smooth again. Can I use 800 grit sand paper? How you can keep level when sand surface? use file then wrap with sand paper?
 
#5 ·
Milwaukee said:
I was surprise to see nick on surface of carb look i need find way to make smooth again. Can I use 800 grit sand paper? How you can keep level when sand surface? use file then wrap with sand paper?
Click to expand...

Read Marks post...

If you dont have a flat peice of steel a table saw top will work, or a drillpress table will work. Or if nothing elae a flat peice of glass will work. Tape the sand paper to it, and lightly sand it in the flat serfuce.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Ingersoll444 said:
Read Marks post...

If you dont have a flat peice of steel a table saw top will work, or a drillpress table will work. Or if nothing elae a flat peice of glass will work. Tape the sand paper to it, and lightly sand it in the flat serfuce.
Click to expand...
:thThumbsU great tip. We have many of those with steel surface but first I will use level to make sure it straight so I will start sand carb. I hope no more leak around gasket if it does then i have no choose because replace carb is over 128 dollars:banghead3
 
#10 ·
This is just a thought from someone that doesn't really know what he's talking about, but if it's a deep nick maybe some JB Weld to fill it and overlap just a tiny bit onto the smooth surface, then emery cloth it down to smooth? I'm not talking just a small scratch, but a big gouge or nick.??


Brad
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well it have tiny nick but now no more leak around edge:bannana: BUT it not run good I can't run without choke on it.:Disgus:

I do remember someone use carb cleaner spray on carb during run to see bubbles that correct? I think it gasket for port connect to carb is bad that cause vacuum leak.
 
#12 ·
Ive got one of those carbs on a 10hp Briggs, old one was shot, had to replace it.

Pull the intake elbow off and put some FORM-A-GASKET on all mating surfaces, and put it together.

When you turn the MAIN JET NEEDLE out 4-5 turns, that engine should be so RICH it shuts off, if it doesnt, Id suspect a bad or clogged main jet, or a Vacuum leak.

Did you put a jet ket in it yet?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I did try by adjust so rich it won't start but saw fuel come from muffler so have trouble start so put gas in cylinder then bam start it was very rich so adjust until it run ok but can hear bang from muffler.

then next day try start without choke it won't so use choke to run.


And what that jet ket?
 
#14 ·
My Farmall cub has a similar looking carb. If you overtighten the screws durng rebuild it bends the "ears" and causes warping.
 
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#15 ·
Milwaukee said:
I did try by adjust so rich it won't start but saw fuel come from muffler so have trouble start so put gas in cylinder then bam start it was very rich so adjust until it run ok but can hear bang from muffler.

then next day try start without choke it won't so use choke to run.


And what that jet ket?
Click to expand...

Try a new spark plug, Run a J19LM Champion. My 10hp Iron Briggs Does things similar to what you are describing when it has a bad or the the wrong plug in it.

Also, Ive got a 10hp Aluminum briggs with the same style carb, and I gotta tell you, its just about impossible to flood one due to the updraft design. These things are tempremental, more so than any carb Ive ever tuned. Turn the bottom jet out until you can get it to start, should only have ot choke it for a moment, then CHOKE OFF, it should start, then run the throttle lever to full throttle. Then start turning the Bottom screw in until it starts to even out, its quite a few turns. Then try and idle it. If it refused, turn the side needle OUT a turn, try that. Keep playing with that needle, in and out until it idles, and accelerates smoothly. The bottom needle will need more fine tuning undoubtedly.

Once tuned right, they arent bad carbs...they seem to allow the engine to make good torque likely due inpart to a longer intake runner.

The trick to starting one is not to fil lthe bottom of the carb up with fuel by overchoking. Ive found it helpful to have the motor turning over, then blip the choke a couple times until it catches.

If you have points, Try cleaning and gapping the points.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Well that what I think it was spark plug because it happen 4 months ago. I couldn't believe it run so bad you could hear bangs and rattle from bad spark plug it stall every 5 mins.


I will try get new spark plug and new plug with wire maybe tomorrow.


What correct gap for pointer? Well be aware we not use internal coil we convert to external coil. Internal coil is bad no spark.


Ok I do see gas near to end of carb but it hard to not let gas go to bottom.
 
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Milwaukee
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