My Tractor Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Forums

Late 70's Deere 214 W/Hydraulic lift deck???

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
7

76type2

· Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys,
I haven't been on here for awhile as Life just gets too busy at times. I have a couple questions to ask and hope someone can direct me right. My 214 is now running great thanks to Sea Foam. That stuff works! Now what I am experiencing is the mower works fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then is slows way down and won't cut grass? Also I built a nice lawn roller out of an old air compressor tank I bought for $8.00, It rolls well on its own but the tractor won't even pull it unless I'm going down hill. It acts like the clutch is slipping. Are these 2 items related? If so do I need to buy a manual to replace the clutch or do you think its just out of adjustment? If so can someone give me some direction to adjust it properly? Thanks and Happy 4th of July to all, and Please be safe!
Dave
 
#2 ·
I'm guessing your issue has something to do with one of the two drive belts in the variator set up slipping. That doesn't explain why it takes 20 minutes to manifest when mowing though.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#3 ·
I'd have to agree with ggsteve, your drive belts may be worn or the variator may not be adjusted properly.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#4 ·
76type2 said:
Hey guys,
I haven't been on here for awhile as Life just gets too busy at times. I have a couple questions to ask and hope someone can direct me right. My 214 is now running great thanks to Sea Foam. That stuff works! Now what I am experiencing is the mower works fine for about 15 to 20 minutes then is slows way down and won't cut grass? Also I built a nice lawn roller out of an old air compressor tank I bought for $8.00, It rolls well on its own but the tractor won't even pull it unless I'm going down hill. It acts like the clutch is slipping. Are these 2 items related? If so do I need to buy a manual to replace the clutch or do you think its just out of adjustment? If so can someone give me some direction to adjust it properly? Thanks and Happy 4th of July to all, and Please be safe!
Dave
Click to expand...
Sent You a PM with some Help:thThumbsU
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Thanks Guys,
I thought it was something to do with belts or clutch and also thought it strange that I can get my back yard mowed before it starts to slow down. I can mow about 100x100 then it starts acting up. Its coming out of the garage into the shop today to check it out completely, cleaned and lubed. I'm going for knee replacement in a couple weeks so I need this to work for my wife to mow with. (some guys will do anything to get out of mowing) Maybe I will even get the small leak in the hydraulic tank repaired today too! Thanks for your assistance! :thanku:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
So today I pull the tractor into the shop, put it up in the air to work on it. First I pulled the Hydr. tank off and soldered the crack to stop the leak. Then on to the PTO, The front variator adjuster with the 3/4" lock nut was frozen and not able to adjust. SO I took it all apart and freed it up, put it back together then I followed the instructions in the manual to adjust the variator plate parallel with the bar. Then I adjusted the the rear spring to have 3/32 gap just like the manual says. I lubed all the grease fittings, sharpened the blades and thought I was ready. Now the PTO won't disengage! I set it just like the manual said. SO in frustration I put it back in storage. I will get it back out and check the adjustments but I took my time and I know I did it to the book. Maybe its time to sell it and find an affordable new lawn tractor! Dave
 
#7 ·
The spring on the right side that pulls the pto is too tight
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
Spring on the right side???? If you are talking about the rear of the bar where there are two springs, an inner and outer then I tried running the nut all the way out to the end of adjustment and it still didn't disengage.
I'm going to try to locate a shop to get it in for a professional adjustment IF I can find an affordable mechanic.
 
#10 ·
There is a brake on the bottom of the pto,(an L bracket attached to the motor) check it and see IF you have it too far in and not letting the pto not come out and releasing?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #12 ·
SO I found a guy 25 miles from me that used to own a repair shop. He called me and we made a plan for me to load it up and tow it to his house. I got there and the bone head wasn't home as he said he would. SO I brought it back home and tore the thing apart. The PTO adjustment was easy, I mowed the front lawn and it worked great. BUT when it was under transport it leaked hydraulic fluid all over my trailer. I needed a reason to tear the body panels off for repaint anyway so its all apart in the shop. Tomorrow I'll weld up a couple cracks and sand it down for repaint. Should be an easy one since I have painted many cars in my life. I also found a rear hub that was wobbly too so I'm looking for one of them as well as a new fuel cap. One of the spindles in the deck had a hole but no threads or zerk fitting, so I tapped it and installed a fitting. Thanks for all the help. Maybe if I figure out how to post pics I will post one when its done. Dave
 
#13 ·
Tell us how you adjusted the pto? These decks don't have grease certs, the hole must be from something else.most of these will have the wobbly hub, might be a seal and bearing, any oil coming from it?
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I adjusted it while running and made sure it engaged and disengaged properly using the adjuster nuts.
My deck had a zerk fitting on one of the spindles and a hole in the other. Probably replacement spindles.
The wobble in the hub is a loose hub, no oil coming from it, I measured them both and the loose one is .0020 larger than the good one. The axles are the same size and they are nice and tight. I swapped the wheels from side to side and the loose hub proved it was the problem.
 
#15 ·
Sounds like you are going in the right direction,I really like my 216 for mowing,I mow 2 acers and dont have a lot of trees and stuff to go around so I don't mind the 4 speed tranny.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #16 ·
SO you guys are really into John Deere's. SO tell me what models to stay away from. L110, or LX 178? Whats the bad stuff. I'm going to start to look for a Hydrostatic tranny model. Thanks again. Dave
 
#17 ·
Given the choice I'd pick the LX. Much better machine than the L110. And if you want a hydro then you're in luck because Deere built a ton of them starting in the late 80's.:thThumbsU

I'd stay away from the Lightning platform tractors (L100 series, 100 series 2006-2007, LA100 series, and current D series) only because I think you'd be disappointed with the durability compared to the 214. Older 100 series (165, 175, 185), LT, LX are great mowing tractors with hydro transmissions. If you're looking for a garden tractor than the GT series and GX series are great machines too.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#18 ·
It all depends on what your uses will be,JD makes a lot of GOOD mowers that just mow,but if you want to till,plow,blade,blow snow the mowers won't do some of these.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#20 ·
Nice 214
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
About this Discussion
27 Replies
8 Participants
Last post:
76type2
My Tractor Forum
posts
4.4M
members
246K
Since
2005
A family friendly forum community dedicated to all Tractor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
John Deere Forum Craftsman/Sears Forum Backyard Round Table: L & G Tractor Related Topics Introductions Walk Behind Mowers