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ldlittsen

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm working on an engine that came out of a 1946 Economy tractor. Did Economy tractors use Sears engines? The engine is identical the old Briggs engine models 9,14,etc. It has the Magnematic magneto that is located behind the flywheel. The only numbers on the engine are stamped on a tag that is located on the cylinder on the pto side. the Sears & Roebuck model # 203015 and the serial # 181475 I can't find any info on this engine anywhere and thought maybe I could get some suggestions here. The tractor belongs to a friend and I don't know much about it. Only that it is a 1946-47. He removed the engine and brought it to me to see if I could get it to run. He bought the tractor a couple years ago and has never heard it run. The tractor, and engine are very clean and have been kept inside. My problem is I can't get any spark. The engine has a Magnamatic magneto that is located behind the flywheel. And the points are located in a box near the throttle cable. I installed a new spark plug, checked the timing, cleaned, and adjusted the points and still no spark. I don't like electricity much, but I can hold on to the plug wire and give a pull on the starter rope and I don't even get a tickle. I couldn't locate a condenser anywhere in town today. I figured I'd try that first since the one that came out of it is maybe the original. Otherwise I was hoping that maybe there is an electronic conversion kit available? If not how hard will it be to find a good used replacement mag for this engine? I could sure use some suggestions. Thanks Guys, Litz
 
The only engine used in 1946 was a B & S ZZP. Try to ask your friend what the serial number is on the tractor. If it is a 1946, it's one of only 22 made.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info jas. I'll give him a call in the morning. This is the only Economy tractor that I have ever seen. I don't know if this is the original engine or not. Probably not since the only I.D. on the engine is a Sears & Roebuck tag. To me the engine looks real old, but in good condition. Good compression, and very clean. Just no spark. I'll get the tractor serial # tomorrow. Thanks again, Litz
 
Best thing to do is convert it to battery ignition. All you need is a good battery, new points and condensor, and an automotive coil that is stamped 12v (which means it has a built in resistor that is required). If you need help with the wiring we can show you how to do that too.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the offer Dave and I may take you up on that. I asked the owner to try and locate a set of points, and condenser for the engine and he called me back saying that man auto electric shop in Camarillo could order them. The price of the condenser is 20.00 and the points were 29.00!!! WOW! I told him to hold off on ordering anything. I would think that any condenser that will mount in the original location would probably work?? And the points arent in that bad of shape. I hate to see him put 50.00 in points, and condenser if the mag is bad. I'm still hoping that it's the condenser. If anywone has a part # for the points, and condenser I would sure appreciate it. Also any advice/info is sure welcome. Thanks, Litz
 
Set it up on your work bench and belt it up to an electric motor.. Take out the spark plug and let it turn for a while.. I don't know why but sometime after tunning for about 30 min. sometimes it will pickup spark. My guess is the coils sometimes short out and spark inside. After some inside sparking the short burns out and it starts sparking at the plug. Be sure to have a spark plug hanging on the end of the plug wire and the base of the plug touching the engine. I have hundreds of engines and this has worked for me many times...
 
I realize this post is OLD, but did you ever figure out what you needed on this engine? I had a customer that brought one in with the same Sears & Roebuck model number. The Serial on this one is 180615. I am wondering if there is a solid state ignition coil upgrade for it.
 
Hi Verson2307, yes this is a very old post but the SN means very little the engine model number is best, if it is a m B&S model 9 or 14 or 19 the answer to electronic conversion is no but the good news is that new aftermart magneto coils are now available for those engines
 
Perhaps if it uses a push rod to open the points,it may have got stuck in its bore if the engine stopped with the points in the open position...sometimes I've been able to get them freed up by turning the engine over (with an electric motor as suggested,I've used another engine on a tractor & a v-belt to join them together)--then push in on the points push rod and it should pop in & out and open and close the points..
This is probably why Kbeitz has had success with his spinning trick,also I think it helps the magnetism build up in the armature or coil and get it sparking again..
Another trick I've used that sometimes works is to hook up a D flashlight battery to the points for a few seconds,I have done that and got dead magnetos to fire again..I think it "recharges" a drained condensor and makes it work again..

I have an old model 14 Briggs,1950's vintage,its a weird one with an aluminum side cover but the rest of the engine is cast iron, that has that weird Magnetron magneto under the flywheel--I remember it needing to have its rotor "timed" for it to fire at all,I do not know if I still have the book that shows how to time it and test the coil..
 
Yep these B&S engines have a timing mark but the timing is for the different engines that used the magnematic system you lined the scribe line up with say 14 for the Model 14 of 23 for the model 23 the OEM coils were not that good to begin with and time has taken its toll but the new aftermarket coils work good, with a good coil and the points and condenser all in good shape these engines start good if the carb is good and set right generally on the first pull
 
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