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HobieMarty

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Okay I am really upset with myself over this. My Dad passed away back in February and I have his mower, a Toro Recycler 22 walk behind high wheel self propelled front wheel drive mower powered by a Tecumseh 6.75hp engine. I think I got the hp rating correct, correct me if I am wrong. Anyway the mower had been sitting for several months before I got it, checked oil, good and clean, fuel tank was empty so, put some gas in there, primed the carb, 1st pull it fired right up and ran fantastic. It needed a new drive cable for the self propelled function so, got a new one and installed it, no problem. I adjusted the height for my yard as it looked to be a bit high and started checking it out and it was working great, that is until I hit a dang crepe myrtle root. Mower stopped cold, went to start it and right off something was wrong. Okay so, I lift it up and the blade was severely bent. Okay, so I was done for the day, removed the blade and ordered a new one. In the meantime I did a little refurbishing on the mower, cleaned up the front wheels, they were dingy looking so I masked off the tires and sprayed the wheels white to match the back wheels better. While I had the fronts off I also cleaned and inspected the drive system. I also scraped a bunch of old dried clumps of grass from under the mower deck and generally refreshed the mower. Yesterday I put it all back together and tested it out.
First pull, started right up but upon starting up it was knocking, sounds like something internal. The engine runs but I didn't like that knocking so I shut it off. I had someone tilt the mower back so I could look underneath while they pulled on the cord and I didn't see any wobble from the shaft, so I am thinking this knocking is coming from a bent connecting rod but, what do I know?
I don't know why the connecting rod would have bent and not the crankshaft and all of this from hitting a dang root and bending the blade. So, what do y'all think, connecting rod or something else? Here are some pics of the bent blade as well as the new "Atomic" blade and before and after pics of the mower.
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You'd have to take it apart to see. That's happened to FJ180V's on my Ariens LM21S, when the blade hits something solid, and the engine suddenly becomes a parts engine. It could be the rod, could be the crank twisting slightly. There's a fair amount of mass that comes to a quick stop that the parts aren't designed to do.

It can also be the gears between the crank and camshaft, depending on how they are attached the the shaft, they rotate on the shaft, throwing the timing off.
 
Lawn mowers like that have much lighter flywheels, in the name of cost cutting, as it uses the blade as part of the weight it would normally have, so it would be a little less likely to shear the flywheel key...
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
When I checked for crankshaft wobble as my son pulled on the cord to spin the blade, I didn't see any wobble at all.
In the past with another push mower I "sheared a pin" as it was called, this is different, this mower cranked right up bit has the knock. I guess I will take it to a shop, anyone have a rough estimate on what it usually costs for an engine rebuild?

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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Oh okay so, most likely it can be fixed then. I was thinking, worst case scenario would be a rebuild. I really like this mower and I don't know, maybe because it was my Dad's, I'd like to keep it around a while. [emoji846]

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Normally to check for a bent blade or bent crankshaft I would check the blade distance on one end from the deck, height to deck and spacing to deck, and then rotate it 180 degrees. Should be very close with your new blade on there. Let us know how you checked for the bent crankshaft. Bill
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Normally to check for a bent blade or bent crankshaft I would check the blade distance on one end from the deck, height to deck and spacing to deck, and then rotate it 180 degrees. Should be very close with your new blade on there. Let us know how you checked for the bent crankshaft. Bill
Okay, I didn't measure anything but was just looking for any wobble by watching the center of the shaft as my son pulled on the cord. I will measure it when I have some time, probably going to have to be next weekend. I know that my new blade does not rub the deck at any point.

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Discussion starter · #12 ·
I have to say, the blade that was on the mower was a heavy steel blade and I couldn't believe it bent like it did. The root doesn't even look cut up, but dang, it sure did a number on that blade.

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since around 2008 when there was a large class action law suite about overrated horse power they have used torque in place of hp so that one is 6.75 foot pounds,

IMMO as a OPE shop mechanic if the con rod did bend i personally would look for another machine as the toros of new for home owners have become box store throw away machines,
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
since around 2008 when there was a large class action law suite about overrated horse power they have used torque in place of hp so that one is 6.75 foot pounds,

IMMO as a OPE shop mechanic if the con rod did bend i personally would look for another machine as the toros of new for home owners have become box store throw away machines,
This mower was made in 2002.

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Discussion starter · #17 ·
I also posted this issue on a car forum that I am on and a guy that works on small engines said to first check the "woodruff key" that I could've partially sheared it causing the timing to be off a little enough to cause the knock I am hearing, so before tearing into the engine, I will check that out.

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