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11 hp Sears 5 speed transaxle issue

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locodave64

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
A gift from a friend. Model # 917.255732. Research shows it's a 1986-87. One U/tube video shows it has the Foote 4150-6, same model #. Been sitting in a garage for many years. Like new. New gas fired right up, then wants to go backwards. Engine not running, on the ground. Trans is locked up. Pic is in my avatar

The transaxle shift lever is stuck in neutral. Can't roal it, trans seems locked. Jack it up and one wheel goes one way and the other the other way. I tryed heating the shaft up. no luck on moving the lever. Bigger pry-bar?

Quandry, Should I take it off, split the case. Or ebay has a few close 5 speed numbered units for sale. ( 4360 but other last numbers don't match up & unknown if they would work. )

I don't know the cross reference that would work. Parts search comes up with 4150-4-6-8--10 and 13.
 
#4 ·
No, that’s the way a differential works. The brake pads could be stuck to the disc/drum.
 
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#6 ·
On my old (1986) Sears transaxle the brake connected to transmission itself not to the axles or wheels, thus one brake assembly for both wheels. Made for some interesting rides down steep hills, as one wheel would actually turn backwards on slippery grass.
 
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#7 ·
I believe this is probably the video that Dave referred to.
Comparing this video and the PDF bill provided it looks like the brake is on the front gear shaft. This should stop the big gear on the rear differential but still allow the axles to turn in opposite directions. I think.
Cannon
 
#8 ·
Yes that’s right. It’s almost like leaving the transmission in gear because one of the shafts is locked. Installing one brake is cheaper than installing two brakes.
 
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#9 ·
Bill Kapaun said:
I don't work on these, but-
I thought the disc was attached to the axle. IF it's stuck, that axle won't turn??
Click to expand...
I thought these we're just like the later green model craftsmans with the disc on the right axle shaft that gets squeezed when you push the clutch pedal down. Ayp style. Unless it's old enough to be made by murray I can't tell the avatar is so small.
 
#11 ·
First the 917s are AYPs and not Murrays. Plus generally the serial number will generally give the manufacture date if not too old.

Ever thought about just looking up the IPL of the Foote/Dana 4150-6? It is available at searspartsdirect.com

As for the shifter not moving it could corroded in place and requires the transaxle disassembly to fix.
 
#12 ·
Probably the transaxle has water in it and it rusted things up,or has frozen into ice,in the cold..
They use grease instead of gear lube in that type of transaxle,it lets condensation build up and water can get in by the shifter shaft too,eventually it ends up seizing the gears to the shafts inside..often taking it apart,washing out all the old grease and de-rusting things gets it to work OK again..
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Thanks everyone. I got it this August. Been trying off and on to get it to work. Didn't think about the brake. Have to see if it's stuck.

That's the video I saw. I'm not shure if I jack it up. Start the engine, is that disk supposed to turn or not. I did check the brake lever for movement before. But didn't check if the puck is rusted to the disk.

As far as I know, it's been used for a few years. Then the ppl hired a lawn service. Never been out of the garage since. Sears parts direct, some parts are available. The only cross reference was the AYP that's No longer availiable.

I didn't get a chance to put it in my shed before the snow came & 10 deg outside. I'll get to it as soon as I can and let everyone know what I found. I don't mind laying in snow if dressed for it.
 
#14 ·
Whatever you do, do not try to force the brake disk pad attachment bolts loose if they are frozen in place. It is not fun to fix if they break.
You should be able to see the pad and disk assembly on the side of the case. If the disk is rusted tight, you can whang on it a bit to see if it will let go of the pads(likely) and avoid removal(until the pads wear out) and see if it frees up.
If you cannot move the shift lever at all, and the external linkage is not rusted solid and immobile, try removing the nut that holds the shift lever arm onto the shift mechanism. See if the linkage will move freely then. If so, I'd suggest removal and splitting the case as the above experienced hands suggested. It is likely that just condensation from normal temperature fluctuation over several years has corroded stuff such that it won't move by external control, but likely will free up and work if you can disassemble, clean, remove the corrosion, and re-lubricate.
If you force external controls(or brake pad bolts) they'll likely break, and if they break off in the case, it is a pain to remove the remaining thread bits.
tom
 
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#15 ·
Yeah,if the brake is just stuck from rust,you wont be able to push or roll it ,but the transaxle should still be able to be shifted into the various speeds regardless of the brake...
Tom is right about those caliper bolts,I have snapped a lot of them off trying to remove them,even after some persuasion from my torch..another time a steel bolt in an aluminum casting that should be never-seized from the factory,but wasn't..drilling them out isn't always a success either...
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks Tom. I guess with the engine running that brake disk should spin. Yes? If not I'll try the whang. I can push down on the selector, but won't move the shaft. Hope it's an easy fix with a stuck brake.

Last time I tryed to get it to move. B/Blaster sit for a day. No-go. Heated up the shaft below the bracket. Should of heated the part the shaft goes into. But, heat does travel. Hit it with a hammer both ways to try to break it loose. No-go. Then tryed my air chisel both ways with a tip that has a concave cup. That rounds out rivets. On the bracket attached to the shaft. Steady intermitten tapping. No-go.

On bolts, I use an impact. Less chance to snap a bolt with steady pressure. Try it a bit, dosen't move? Bring out the Ox/Act set. Heat usually does wonders. Have to be care-full.

Cherry red, wait till it cools down a bit. Otherwise I found that the bolt shaft twists under pressure. Heat expands, cool down contracts. Usually that does the trick.

If the brake is fine. Going to take the trans-axle off. Looks like only a few bolts.
 
#17 ·
The brake disc should only turn when both wheels are turning in the same direction. That is, when the transmission shafts are turning. The input shaft does not turn the disc unless you’re in gear and moving.
 
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#19 ·
Be aware, if you open the transaxle up, that they may have used bentonite grease in it. It's a bear to get off your hands, so gloves are a good idea. Also, it may not be compatible with other greases.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
A little up-date. I'm down in Greensboro N/C. Been searching for a replacement for a long time since the original post. I really don't want to tear apart the transaxle , if need parts that are no longer avalible. I'm stuck. Or break something on splitting the case.

Looked at craigslist down here. A guy has an exact rider like mine. Mower deck won't engauge. He will sell parts off of it, or buy the whole thing for $110. Talked to him and if it works. He says it runs and drives with a jump. Ok with him if I take the transaxle and tires if I want.

He will sell whats left for parts. Woo-hoo!!! Never taken a transaxle off, but looking at it. Around 8-10 bolts? Anything you can tell me to make it easyer? Or what else to get while I'm there? Only one rear tire holds air. Both fronts are dry rotted. Only so much room in the trunk to take back. Dave
 
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