The fuel shutoff solenoid would only be on diesel engines, like in the X595, not yours.

Pull the spark plugs and look them over. If they are wet with gas its probably in the ignition, otherwise its fuel/computer/injector related.
I'd start with one of those inline spark testers with the neon bulbs inside.
Check each side, as they have separate coils.

These models do have known issues with the fuel line inside the tank, between the pump and cover plate. I'd check there next. I think its just 5/16 ID fuel line, maybe 3-4 inches long. They deteriorate and you lose pressure.

Next would be to use a test light at the injectors.
I would also check all wiring and connectors to the computer, injectors, and all engine sensors. Unplug each and put in a little silicone grease in the contacts. Thats cheap insurance against poor connections.

 

The gas ones have one too, although it's usually called and anti-backfire solenoid.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

How many hours?

 

STLADRILL, It has 105 hours on it. Thanks all for the info. TractorPete, I will follow up on your info and thanks. Anuone else have anu ideas, please post. Have a Great and Happy Thanksgiving.

Roy
Hooker53

 

I think you found an error in your tech manual. My x485 tech manual also states there is a fuel shut off solenoid for the EFI x485, but there is not.
The Carbed x465 DOES have a fuel shut off solenoid that mounts to the float bowl.

On the x465 the number 650 pink/black wire from the PTO/RIP switch goes to the FS solenoid.
On the x485 the number 650 pink/black wire from the PTO/RIP switch goes to the EFI Module. There not a FS solenoid.

I think the x585 would not have a FS solenoid too.

 

Zebra5, I sometimes wish my X585 did have a Fuel Shutoff Sol. It would explain my problems. I just can't fettish that it's my fuel pump but you never know. When I was draining the last Gal of fuel out of it by attaching a hose to the output side of the fuel filter and cycling the Ign key, the hose would nearly jump out of the catch pan it had so much preasure but like I said, I'v seen crazier things happen. I did find that when I did a tap/wiggle test on the Fuel Pressure Reg Sol, I would hit as if trying to run. That could have come from jarring anything on top of the engine though. When I get past this Bum foot that has me laid up, I have to really dig deep on this one. With only 105 hours on this tractor, I can't think of much it could be.

Keep the ideas rolling Gents and thanks to all.

Roy
Hooker53

 

when my pump hose let go my X485 would still run, in my case the hose was slipped off just enough to keep some fuel pressure, when I would shut engine off I could hear the fuel returning back into the tank till the pressure was all gone.

 

OK Folks. I tried an experiment on this thing today. Let me run this by ya and see what you Geeks think.

I filled up a large hypodermic with some fuel and and put a long spinal tap needle on it. I removed the air filter and primed the plenum in the rear with some fuel. It fired and ran and right smooth as long as i sprayed fuel into both sides. After I ran out of fuel, it would still try to run. Missing, popping, Governor would pull in and it would catch back up and run for a few seconds. Gov would pull in again and would run. Missing, popping and such. After it would do this 3/6 times it would finally die and the fuel pump would cut off. I'm thinking fuel pump in the tank or the Fuel pressure Regulator solenoid. Whats you think????

Burned300, I'm hoping that what you encountered is what my problem is. Right now with this bum foot, all I can do is speculate, read about it and try to Fig out parts to buy and have here when I can work on it. Ha. All help and post is greatly App.

Roy
Hooker53

 

Your test verifies a fuel delivery problem, BUT it does mean either fuel pump or fuel regulator.

It could be the fuel injectors. The service manual tells how to test. It's not a very reliable test, just tells you to test ohms of each injector Spec is 13.8 ohms. And to connect a pair of jumper wires momentarily and see if they "click"

It could also be the FI module. Service manual is little help testing. It says swap in a know good unit and see what happens.

It could also be a sensor that the FI module reads. A failed sensor "might" shutdown the FI module.

FIRST I would check the fuel pressure with a gauge after the fuel regulator. If NOT OK, I would determine why and repair.

SECOND if fuel pressure is OK, I would test the injectors, per the service manual; OHM test, and click test. If they fail replace, if OK

THIRD if injectors are OK, I would move to the FI module. You may have to "bite the bullet" and buy a new one. OR maybe someone with the same engine will agree to swap YOUR module to THEIR engine. If their engine runs OK, the FI module is OK, If their engine will not run the FI module has been proved bad and needs to be replaced.

FOURTH if your module proves OK, I would start replacing any sensor that connects to it, starting with the least expensive.

GOOD LUCK keep us posted!

 

Thanks Zebra.

Plenty to go on here. When I can do it, I think I might get into all the wires going to the FI MOd and see what they look like. Take a good look at all of them going to where ever they go. It's not a drop of fuel getting to the injectors but if you cycle the key in trying after around 4/5 tries, it does fire like a small amount of gas got in but at this point who knows. Thanks for the info.

Roy
Hooker53

 

If you narrow it down to the FI Module here is "no cost" thing you can try. Remove the module and put it in your freezer for about an hour. Then put it back on try it.

Sometimes electronics will work when "COLD" but after they warm up something fails and they quit.

Sometimes it's the exact opposite. You can warm an electronic module with a heat gun and it will work until it cools. But that is rarely the case.

I am leaning towards failed FI Module. Or one of it's sensors. I doubt BOTH fuel injectors would fail at once. One might and the other still work and you would have rough running under powered engine.

Good Luck

 

just a guess
but after you got rid of all the gas in the tank ? did you bleed the injectors
in/on a car every time you turn the key/pump on it gives the motor a shot of gas
in turn that runs the injectors dry

john

 

John.

No I didn't bleed the injectors. Taking a connection loose on one of the injectors is my next move to see if gas is even getting to them. At this point in time, I'm starting to think my problem is a bad ECU. Can anyone here suggest a good fuel pressure gage to test with? I tried looking for the one that the SM list and the only one that came up for sell, the company was out of them. It was the ORIG JD test gage and was listed for $17.00. I wish the SM would give you a Dead Head pressure I could see if the pump was putting out the correct amount coming from the tank.

By the way Zebra, I tried the ECU freeze test and it was a no go. It still hits once and just won't run. Ha.

Thanks All.

Roy