Sippy.... Had Nephew go over to Padula Bros. They said there won't be any X500 series in for a month ( something about trucking..........) :Stop:

 

I asked them about that. Said He can't keep them in stock. Sold 6 X500 in the last month.

 

The size of the amber lights is real nice!

What brand, type of flasher will you be using?

Thanks.

Joe

 

I'm going with a Grote flasher made for LED lights. Part 44090

 

Sounds like that machine will be lit up like a Christmas Tree! Keep us posted and of course...:wwp:

 

Christmas tree will have nothing on this ride. Vegas strip will be a better comparison.

 

Just an update. I went to the parts store and found a Cole Hersee Part-55019. That will allow me to isolate the two circuits that I will have 4 LED on each one. More when I do the install in a few weeks

 

Cole Hersee products are very good, all my switch for my tractor are of this brand.:fing02:

 

Bump to the top for later reading.

 

Another update to this project. I just found a great site http://ultrabrightlightz.com that has about 5 Sho-Me LED universal flashers. I'm thinking of getting the model 11.1032. It is a complete flasher and switch all in one. It does the same flashes as the model 11.1005.SF and I don't have to find a place for just the flasher.

It's compact too: Measures Appx: 2 1/2"(W) X 1 1/2"(H) X 1/2"(D).

Price is not bad either.

 

I have not sold any ShowMe products recently so Im not up to snuff on the specific models you are speaking of. In the past, I was not hooked up with a Whelen dealer so dealt strictly ShowMe products and for the money they are hard to beat.

Interested in seeing your end results because an OTC with LEDs, HIDs, and a headliner for mounting devices sounds just like what Ive been envisioning for my 540 some day.

 

I'm thinking that the 11-1032 flasher could be mounted inside the storage compartment on the right fender on the 720.

Joe

 

Picking up the OTC cab Friday!!!! Sunday looks like the day to assemble with the wiring project

 

Great, let us know what you think abou it. I am considering getting one for my X530 as well and possibly some of the modifications you so kindly posted.

 

I don't think I could sleep knowing more green was on the way!

 

Cab is being picked-up Today. All my parts look like they will be delivered USPS today or tomorrow.

Quick stop at the auto parts supply house for some wire and away we go.

Pictures and video while in the process.

 

Great, can't wait to see them and your comments. I am thinking about the OTC cab for my X530 for next season.

 

Got the Frame installed this morning. Not that bad to install! I will say the directions SUCK.

With that said you can make the directions work with the picture of the entire frame assembled.

Total time for just the frame was about 90 min. ZERO modification to the tractor needed, well wait. I take that back. I have to trim 6 tabs for the floor mats. I can live with that.

Also I can say without a doubt the cab CAN come off with the removal of 8 bolts!! as one unit.

I did take pictures and I will;l post them tomorrow.

GREAT Product. Very happy with it.

 

So here is the pictures I had promised.

First Pic is how the front supports mount to the Tractor. You remove the ABS plastic floor mats.


Photo 2 shows the floor mat removed. You will need to trim 3 of the tabs to re-install the floor mats.

Photo 3 shows what the mat looks like with the frame installed. Please note I did not trim the tabs in this photo

Last Photo shows what the front frame.

 

So the first photo in this post shows the rear mount of the cab. You remove the plastic cups that are used for the sun shade sold by JD.

I like the fact that you use the same screws and holes from the JD factory cups. You can also see this is the location I use for my power to the cab.

Second photo show the rear of the cab frame assembled.

Third photo shows the entire cab frame assembled and ready for the plastic roof

Fourth photo shows you the front mount that has the shoot control. I have not figured the reason for this, but the make you move the shoot control rod to a lower position and move to the inside of the cab. I have noticed that this tends to hit my knee.

 

Looks good I just use non skid tape so I don't have to cut my plastic. I take my doors off and a bolt a bar across the door opening so it won't move when I lift it off for the summer, that way everything stays lined up for the next year. Maxl

 

Not to hijack or anything but do you leave the top and vinyl on or strip it down to the frame for removal and storage?

Good job so far Sippy. If you don't have a manual chute deflector kit installed you could probably move the chute rotation one up higher. Keep the info coming!

 

Ok this post I'm going over the cab warning lights.

First picture is the Grote part 47013. I had to drill three holes per light.

Second photo is the connection I have for the option of removing the cab in the summer time. This is a four conductor Deutsch.

Third photo is the under side of the rear lights. It show the three holes needed to mount and run the wires for each light.

Fourth photo shows the front LED lights. Please not that I wired the lights to have two circuits, A and B. This was to use the Sho-me flasher and allow for alternating lights.

 

First photo in this post shows the headliner I made today.

I used a 3/8 inch piece of plywood I had. I was able to find some remnant outdoor carpet at HD for $20!! Score.

Used some 3M high tact spray glue and attached the carpet to the wood.

Before I did this, you will see in one of the pictures I had cut the wood to fit with some extra slots.

I cut the carpet to be exact fit. I did not roll the carpet over the edges.

Second photo shows from the side the headliner installed.

Third photo shows you the slots cut in the headliner. This is to install and remove the board. I had to make these because once the headliner is installed you will not have access to the bolts for the hard top. So I slid the board up and around the top frame mounts. Once it is above the four mounts I slid it forward till it hit the frame near the windshield.

Fourth photo shows the headliner resting on the front frame mount. Also in this photo is the double pole double throw switch. I used a DPDT to allow me to have the lights flash with the Sho-me unit and also steady burn.

 

Last two photos show the rear frame mounts. To secure the headliner I removed the supplied bolts, drilled through the wood and replaced the bolt with an 1 1/2 bolt to allow it to go through the frame and the wood headliner. I only secured the headliner in the rear due to the fact that you can not access the bolts from the top in the front.

Questions please ask away

 

Thanks for the updates and pictures Sippy...looking good!

 

Sippy, nice looking cab and the wiring looks really good. I'm always amazed at the various ways people dress up their cabs/tractors for their use.

 

Look great! :fing02:

 

Nice work Sippy! :thanku: for the pics!

 

Sippy, Looks great. :trink39: :trink39:

 

Ok gang here is the cab completely assembled and ready for the Snow to fly in NH.

I completed the install in a short amount of time. When working around the house doing fall clean up a problem with the glass window came up!

Because the cab flexes so much the entire window came out and fell on the hood!! YIKES

After looking at what went wrong I came up a fix for it.

Because the cab roof holds the top of the window I had to add 4 self tappers to the front frame. That should fix the issue of it popping out.

IMG00645-20111023-1428.jpg

IMG00643-20111023-1427.jpg

 

Because the cab flexes so much the entire window came out and fell on the hood!! YIKES

Your lucky that nothing broke.

 

IMG00646-20111023-1428.jpg

IMG00648-20111023-1428.jpg

 

Looks great! Have you tried the lights at night? Mine aim up a little higher than your look to.